Today's tutorial is about how to make a scorched text effect on a wooden surface. The result is just super, very suitable for some Hollywood poster. We get this effect with a nice wooden texture, a grunge brush, a couple of blending modes and a few simple filters.

Step 1.

First we need a wooden texture. Let's download it from here. Open the downloaded file in Photoshop and change the size to a more manageable one. For example 1200x800.

Step 2

Now we write the text. We write the word BURN, well, or any other, in Arial Black font, color # 7b4a0f.

Step 3

First, let's create an effect around the main text. To do this, select the text (Ctrl + Click on the text layer).

Step 4

Now let's transform the selection. In the menu, select Selection (Select)> Modification (Modify)> Expand ... (Expand). Expand by 25 pixels.

Step 5

Create a new layer below the text layer and fill the selection with dark gray (#222222).

Step 6

Now soften the edges with a blur. In me Filter (Filter)> Blur (Blur)> Gaussian Blur… (Gaussian Blur). The value is 1.8 pixels.

Step 7

Apply the Wind filter. In the menu Filter (Filter)\u003e Stylization (Stylize)\u003e Wind ... (Wind). Set direction to left.

Step 8

In this step, we will do everything the same as in the previous one, only set the direction to the right.

Step 9

Change the blending mode of the layer to “Blackout Basics” (Color Burn) and set the layer transparency to 30%.

Step 10

Go to the text layer. Change the layer blending mode to “Multiplication” (Multiply).

Step 11

Apply the following layer style to the text layer. Inner Glow: Blend Mode: Multiply, Opacity: 60%, Color: #111111, Size: 21px.

Step 12

Now we need to add some roughness to the edges of the text. For these purposes, "Add a vector mask" by clicking on the icon at the bottom of the container.

Step 13

Download cute grunge brushes. Select one of them and set the settings for the brush, as shown in the figure below. Black color. We made sure that the layer mask is active, and we begin to clean up the upper edge of the text with a brush.

Step 14

Then, in the brush settings, rotate the brush slightly and continue to clean up the edges of the text.

Step 15

After all the manipulations with the brush, our text should look something like the image below.

How often does it happen that you find a picture on the Internet that sinks into your soul, and you really want to draw something similar with your own hand, or you want to give a friend his portrait for his birthday, but, unfortunately, you just don’t know how to draw? But you can create a picture with your own hands on a tree! To do this, you do not need to be a great artist - just transfer the desired picture to the tree and work out all the details with a burner. And now you will learn how to transfer the picture. You will learn how to transfer the most ordinary photo into a special drawing intended for burning out very soon.

How to convert a photo into a drawing for burning: 4 ways

This method is the easiest and is applicable to light contour drawings. All people in childhood used carbon paper. And in this case, she may well come in handy!

The most important thing in this matter is to fix the drawing with the sketch evenly and tightly to the carbon paper and to the tree, so that during the transfer of the drawing it would not “move” and be distorted.

This method differs not too much from carbon paper. For this transfer of the picture, you will need tracing paper. Having attached a tracing paper to the drawing you like, circle the contours, then turn the sheet over and put it on the board, circle the contours again. A slate print will remain on the tree. The disadvantages of this method are that the print is not very clear, so it is quite difficult to translate complex drawings this way. In addition, the drawing will turn out on the tree in a mirror image, and this is not always convenient. And of course, in this method, it is also necessary to fix the tracing paper very tightly to the tree.

For it, you will need a laser printer, an iron, and a bunch of different glossy magazines.

Print the picture you need or a sheet from a magazine. Set the print resolution and contrast to the maximum.

The surface of the wood must be well sanded - the quality of the printed pattern depends on this.

Then just put the stencil on the board and iron it through a sheet of clean paper (say, tracing paper).

The disadvantage of this method is that the stencil comes out one-time, but nothing prevents you from printing a new one on another sheet and continuing. The cost of toner in this case is insignificant, and there are plenty of free catalogs or magazines around.

All three of the first methods are great for transferring outline or black and white drawings. But what if you want to put on a tree not just a picture, but a photograph?

On the Internet for the query “How to convert a photo into a drawing?” you can find an unimaginable number of programs that, by applying various filters, will create the effect you need. For example, the “Sketch Drawer” program is now very popular.

There are also sites that will convert your photo to pencil drawing online. Among these stands out “PhotoFunia” “http://funny.pho.to/” and many many others.

But of course the best option would be to learn how to work in Photoshop. This skill can be very useful not only for converting a photo into a drawing, but also for creating new drawings on your own, or editing existing ones.

The main thing is that for any of the above methods, the transfer of a photo into a drawing requires a very good quality of the photo itself. If your photo has a low resolution, or blurry edges, then most likely it will not work out to make a good clear picture. Therefore, approach the choice of photography responsibly.

Video on the topic of the article

Here are some great video tutorials to help you create a woodburning pattern from a photo you like:

Font burning

Sometimes it becomes necessary to make an inscription on a wooden product made in a folk arts and crafts circle. Such an inscription can be obtained by burning. This requires an electric burner - a metal pin with a wooden handle. The pin is heated by means of an electric current with a voltage of 2-4 V. In this case, a transformer is needed that would allow changing the operating voltage and adjusting the heating temperature of the tip.

In contact with the surface of the wood, the red-hot pin leaves a charred mark, colored, depending on the duration of cauterization and the degree of heating of the pin, various black-brown shades.

It is necessary to burn letters carefully and carefully, since mistakes made during burning are very difficult to correct.

It is better to burn inscriptions on relatively soft, finely porous woods: linden, poplar, alder, birch. Hard wood, such as oak, beech, pine, ash, spruce, larch, in which soft layers alternate with very hard or resinous ones, makes it difficult for the burner to work, does not allow achieving the same depth and color of the burnt strokes.

The wood must be well dried so that the surface of the product does not warp during burning.

The inscription is first made on paper, then transferred to wood using carbon paper. Wood must first be sanded with fine glass sandpaper.

After burning, the surface of the product can be finished with waxing or varnishing, then the inscription will become brighter.

For waxing it is necessary to dissolve one part of natural wax in two parts of pure turpentine, and turpentine is added to the melted wax. Before waxing, remove all dust from the wood with a clean cloth. Then its surface is rubbed with a swab made of a clean cloth impregnated with wax polish, first across and then along the fibers. After 20-30 minutes, this must be repeated, and after drying, the treated surface should be rubbed with a dry, clean cloth to a slight sheen. Lacquering is done with ordinary furniture varnish with the addition of one or two drops of vegetable oil. Prepared, as in waxing, the surface is covered several times with varnish, which is applied with a cotton swab wrapped in a clean linen rag. When applying a new layer of varnish, the previous one should dry well.

Font embroidery

Artistic embroidery is one of the fascinating types of applied art. People with basic knowledge in this area and a minimum of skill can embroider inscriptions on banners and pennants.

Letters are embroidered, like ordinary drawings, on a hoop on a canvas with colored threads (mulina). Embroidery is carried out with a single (Russian) or double (Bulgarian) cross. The font must be chosen with such a constructive construction that would allow it to be embroidered on the canvas. It can be either italic or roman. To preserve the shape of the embroidered letters, their contours are stitched with stitches like a machine seam.

The color of the threads, of course, must be chosen so that the letters are effectively combined with the background. The font is embroidered with threads of one or more colors. For example, one stitch can be made with orange thread and the other with yellow thread.

In this tutorial, I'll show you how to create a scorched logo engraving effect on a wood surface. You can use any logo, shape or text for this effect. The engraving can be edited and customized to your liking.

First you need to choose your favorite wood texture. I will use the texture of an old faded wood, which can be taken from the archive.

Materials for the lesson:

Add a few adjustment layers to age the wood even more. First add Brightness/Contrast(Brightness/Contrast), and then Hue/Saturation(Color tone /Saturation).

Let's add our logo to the work. I will be using a retro logo that I created myself. You can download it. This is a fully editable PSD file. Also you can choose one of these amazing ones and customize to your taste.

Open the psd file with the logo in Photoshop and place it above the wood texture layer. Convert all logo layers to Smart Object.

Translator's note: Vpsd-file with the logo of three groups. For the convenience of moving to work, I advise you to combine all these groups into a new group and then drag this group into the working document. Next, convert this group into a smart object.

Our logo and texture have different viewing angles. Go to menu Edit>Transform>Distort(Edit-Transform-Distort) and change the perspective of the logo.

Now, all you have to do is add the following layer styles to create an engraved effect, as well as a burnt wood effect.

Good day, brain artisans! Today I will share my experience in the field of wood burning or pyrography, using which you can do it yourself create a real masterpiece!

Burn tool

You can pick up any tool for pyrography: from cheap to expensive. My first burner was from a supermarket, it came with 5 different nozzles and, in principle, it did its job perfectly. But over time, I began to use it only for filling the background, because when working with it for many hours, it slowly starts to “fry” my fingers, and the sting heats up so that accuracy is lost.

That's why I bought a professional brain tool pyrograph, with the ability to adjust the glow of the tip, which is very convenient when using different types of wood and creating different blackouts. And of course, a big plus is that you do not need to wait for the burner sting to cool down in order to change it to another one.

Material for pyrography

To begin with, I note that it is necessary to have a hood or fan when burning out, but do not direct the air flow to the burner so that it does not cool.

- MDF: Not the most beautiful material, but I had it in large quantities. The material is hard, so it requires more heat; there is no graininess, which allows you to perform the drawing more clearly and without errors; when done with a gradient, it gives a nice golden sheen, but sometimes a lifeless grayish. Important! Since MDF is a formaldehyde-based compressed-glued wood dust, an exhaust hood is required!

- pine: cheap and widely available material, soft, easily burned. The granularity makes you play with the temperature of the heat and pressure on the sting, the resins give the craft a lacquer shine.

- cedar: soft material, graininess is not a problem, the lines appear well, but the gradient is hardly noticeable.

- cherry: smells great when working 🙂! I've only used it once, but the quality is excellent.

Another note - never burn out on surfaces that have been treated with anything (lacquer, paint, etc.)! This will result in fire or poisoning.

Drawing contours

For my first homemade I applied the contours painstakingly, by hand, believing that tracing paper or templates were not acceptable, that this was a kind of deception. But when I realized that the customers do not appreciate this, that for them this is a little exciting moment, I began to apply the drawing through black tracing paper. It is black, blue that gives a lot of unpleasant troubles.

The trick: some pyrographers apply the design with thermal transfer paper by printing the design on a printer and “translating” it with a warm iron. But this method can cause overheating of the material even with volumetric homemade the proportions of the picture may be lost, distortion may appear. But there is such a way.

Contour burning

For the contours, I use a spear point with a heat of 7/10 for MDF and 5/10 for pine. A sharp sting is harder to keep smooth lines, besides, it leaves a decent furrow, but I like it. The ball tip does not penetrate deep into the wood and allows you to burn lines in various directions.

Trick: Try to burn out the contours with one brainstroke, in one fell swoop, but drive the sting slowly, as you can scratch the tree, and not burn it. With long lines, you can move not only the hand with the burner, but also the material itself.

fill

Filling surfaces is easier than creating a gradient, but it also looks good. For larger volumes, I recommend a flat tip heated at medium to high temperatures. For small areas I use a calligraphic pen, which also gives high quality.

Trick: Don't try to fill surfaces quickly and at excessively high temperatures, as you will ruin homemade, leaving deep black scars-furrows on the tree. Work within medium temperatures in gentle circular motions.

Golden Trick: The first time you touch the tree, blow on the tip of the sting, so the black starting point will not be visible during circular movements, and the beginning will be smooth.

Gradient

To create a gradient, you need less heat, more patience and precision in hand movements. For a gradient effect, I use a flat tip with a 4-5/10 glow.

The gradient itself is applied in a circular motion on a small area, no changes are visible during the first pass, but passing through part of the area a second time, this area becomes darker.

Important: for large grain/fibrillation brain material handle coarser fibers at a higher temperature than when applying the entire gradient.

Hatching

Hatching and crosshatching give excellent results and are sometimes even better than the gradient, for example, when the material is very fibrous.

For shading, I use the same tips as when drawing simple lines, for example, a spear-shaped sting. Start hatching in one direction, always from the edges, so the edges will be darker than the inside. To make hatching crafts darker in some places, apply cross hatching.

Textures

Various textures are good when burning out, I will talk about some:

Head hair: For crazy 80s style hair (see Kiss) or just a little messy (see AC/DC), use a high heat flat tip. At the same time, do not try to make the lines smooth and smooth, so you will achieve hair volume. Shades vary the degree of pressing the burner, or leave unburnt areas as highlights.

- fur: with a thin tip, sharp or round, you can create an amazing fur effect. In dark areas of the fur, use a larger brain heating and pressure, and light quick strokes in bright places. If the fur is too angular and defined, go over it with a flat tip and refine this texture.

scales and skin: use sharp and broken lines to create this texture. This will give the effect of cracking, and with a flat tip create blackouts to add volume. For this texture, do not apply hatching, otherwise you will get a fur dragon 🙂

Background

After burning the main drawing, it is necessary to supplement homemade background, this is especially true when working with cheap and low-quality wood. My following tricks will help you with this:

- rust: the easiest way to apply rust is to "scrape" the rust from old bolts and pieces of iron with an ordinary brainskin, and then apply the resulting brown powder to a homemade product. I do this with my finger, but the cotton swab option works too.

I often apply this effect on MDF in order to remove excessive shine and add realism to it.

- fan: using a conventional mobile fan that smoothly directs the flow to different corners of the room, you can create an amazing vignette effect. Just point it at the homemade product and start gently burning out the lines of the drawing, the effect will not appear immediately, but you will definitely see it. The bottom line is that the flow from the fan periodically cools the sting, thus the same line has a different blackness along its length.

Be careful when working closely with brainfan! I somehow forgot and got a decent burn when the fan ran into the burner.

- darkening: when the drawing requires a completely black background, or when you have patience, or the amount of darkening is not large, then you can apply a flat tip at high temperatures or use a gradient technique. But at the same time, be sure of the final result, otherwise everything will end in a waste of time and material.

- pointing or "dot": this is an old technique used in many medieval works of art. The bottom line is the simple heating of an iron template, for example, a bolt and repeated “branding” homemade. Now a sick round tip is suitable for this, which needs to be heated enough and periodically cleaned of carbon deposits. When working with soft wood, this technique allows you to create a contrasting pattern and textural background.

If you like my craft, then get a burner and feel free to dive into the world of art called pyrography.

good luck brain masterpieces!