It is a Muslim country with its rich history, biblical legends and lost cities. Many traditions and features of the national character are due to religion, although this dependence is not as strong as in many other Islamic states.
Jordanians are friendly and hospitable people. So, it is considered normal to invite a person with whom you have just made an acquaintance to your house, or to come to the aid of a confused foreigner.
The hot climate largely determines the leisurely pace of life of the Jordanians and some of their forgetfulness. An Arab has to be reminded of this or that matter several times, and an order in a restaurant often takes more than an hour to prepare.
Jordan is one of the countries with rather conservative views. This is clearly expressed in relation to the sexes. Women are restricted in their rights, in some cases they are even forbidden to sit next to men, and separate rooms for women are made in Jordanian houses. Women should walk in closed clothes and behave as modestly and restrainedly as possible.
At the same time, the attitude of Jordanian men towards their wives is very careful and zealous, the wife is sacred. So, in men's conversations, the wife should not be touched upon, except in extreme cases (for example, serious health problems). Jordanians, like most Muslims, are very jealous of their national and religious feelings. In conversations, you need to try your best not to offend them. A special time is fasting in the month of Ramadan, when residents give up almost all worldly pleasures.
The surprise of a European tourist can be caused by the increased emotionality of the inhabitants of the country and the habit of clarifying almost all disputes in raised tones, with active gestures.
Population
The total number of inhabitants of Jordan is about 5.9 million people. The population of the country mainly consists of Arabs (they are 95%). Within them, Jordanian Arabs (35%) and former residents of Palestine (55%) are distinguished, who were forced to move to Jordan and obtain citizenship in it during the Arab-Israeli wars of 1948 and 1967.
In addition to them, a fairly large number of Chechens, Armenians, Syrians and people from the Caucasus, called "Circassians" or "Sherkasi", live in the country. You can also meet Jordanians with European origins.
After the war in Iraq that began in 2003, refugees from this country are resettled in Jordan (there are 150-300 thousand of them registered). The number of immigrants from Lebanon is also large, as well as workers, consisting mainly of Egyptian Arabs.
Language
The official language of the nation is Arabic. In the government sphere, in business circles and among educated citizens, English is actively used. It is also well owned by shopkeepers in popular tourist centers, which allows them to bargain freely with European buyers. Characteristically, English is a compulsory subject in Jordanian schools.
A number of educational institutions also teach French. Although it is not mandatory, French is growing in popularity, radio broadcasts are being made in it, and a fairly large French-speaking society is forming in the country.
Religion
Almost the entire population of Jordan can be classified as Sunni Muslims, actively preaching Islam. About 6% of the inhabitants are Christians. Within this community, adherents of Orthodox, Catholic Christianity, as well as various areas of Protestantism, stand out. Christians are mostly of Arab origin, although services are conducted in many European languages.
A minority of the inhabitants of Jordan are religious minorities of various kinds: representatives of the Ismailis and supporters of the Baha'i faith.
Behavior rules
Tourists should remember a number of rules of conduct, the violation of which can offend the dignity of the Jordanians. For example, in the country it is not customary to abuse alcohol and walk around drunk outside of hotels or bars.
Especially strict orders during the period when Muslims fast. During this time, eating, smoking or drinking alcohol in crowded places is considered indecent and offensive. It is better for tourists to eat in a restaurant in a hotel or in establishments near attractions. Yes, and behavior during the period of fasting should be much more restrained than at other times.
Jordanians greet each other and say goodbye with a handshake. At a meeting, it is supposed to ask questions about current affairs (except for personal life). Greetings are quite long, and interest in health, children of the interlocutor, etc. more ritualistic than sincere.
Tourists should be careful with active gestures in public, as some movements may be misunderstood by Jordanians. For most gestures, the inhabitants of the country use the right hand, since the left is associated with the concept of "impurity". So, the food served should be taken only with the right hand and no less than three fingers.
During the meal, the right to take food first is granted to the owner of the house, he also completes the meal. If food falls on the table, it is considered normal to pick it up and eat it. It is better to take food from the tray closest to you. Guests are always offered to drink coffee, it is not supposed to refuse, it will be considered disrespectful. You can't blow on hot food.
There are quite a few rules in Jordan regarding women. It is better to choose clothes that are loose, covering knees and hands, modest, so as not to cause unnecessary unrest among the local population. It is extremely indecent for a woman to try to sit in the front seat of a car. Also, a woman never touches an unfamiliar man, even when greeting.
It is better not to take risks and not appear on the public beaches of Jordan in full nude, at any time of the day. Nudist beaches are not here and cannot be.
You also need to be careful when taking pictures. Objects of strategic importance, vehicles should not fall into the frame. When photographing people, you must first ask their permission to do so.
National Jordanian holidays
Muslims celebrate their holidays according to the lunar calendar, which is 10-12 days shorter than the Gregorian calendar. The end of the month of Ramadan and the Feast of the Sacrifice are accompanied by almost a week of general rest, even individual museums are closed.
- January 1 - Christian New Year;
- January 15 - Day of the Tree;
- January 30 - Birthday of King Abdullah II;
- March 22 - Day of the League of Arab States;
- March 25 - Independence Day;
- May 1 - Labor Day;
- May 25 - Independence and Army Day;
- June 9 - the day of ascension to the throne of King Abdullah II;
- November 14 - Birthday of King Hussein;
- December 25 - Catholic Christmas.
Hello dear FrauWow readers. Today we are interviewing Olga Razina, who has been living in Jordan for 7 years. She will share with us her story and experience of life in the Middle East.
- What did you do, what did you live before moving? What led you to decide to move? Tell your story.
Moving to the East was never part of my plans. I lived an ordinary life, studied finance at the university, worked part-time, was fond of fitness. But in our university there have always been many foreign students - and that's how I met my future husband. When the studies came to an end, the question arose of getting married and moving to the homeland of the spouse. Few of my relatives supported me, everyone had the same fears: a harem, a veil, slavery. Now all this is in the past, we live happily in Jordan. I often go home to visit my parents.
moving
- Tell me about the move. What documents were required?
To enter Jordan, you need to buy a visa, which is sold at the airport ($56). This is a tourist option, designed for 1 month. At the border, to explain the reasons for the visit, it was enough for me to show a marriage certificate concluded in a mosque in my homeland. In Russia, such a document has no legal force, but in Jordan, religious marriage is the basis of the union. After that, all the papers of the local sample were issued in court. During the day, a marriage certificate and the so-called family book are issued - a document with four pages for data on wives and a huge field for entering future children. Thereafter, the spouse of a Jordanian is entitled to a permanent residence permit, which must be renewed annually. After 5 years, you can apply for citizenship.
Ajlun Castle
Impression
- What were the most vivid impressions upon arrival, even, maybe, a culture shock?
The most striking impression is the exceptionally smiling faces and the disinterested willingness of the local population to help and chat about everything in the world. The following points were also surprising:
- Perfect cleanliness in houses and mountains of garbage on the street. Jordanian women are ideal hosts. Floors, windows, dishes are shiny, carpets are thoroughly cleaned, and everything in the kitchen is washed with chlorine after each cooking. But throwing an old sofa or a TV box over a fence is a common thing. Wrappers and empty bottles often lie on the sidewalk, and no one picks up the garbage left after picnics. The state is trying to actively deal with the situation: there are many cleaners in the city, public service calls to protect the environment. But the results, unfortunately, are not very noticeable.
- Abundance of life. Huge centipedes, caterpillars, flying cockroaches, scorpions, poisonous spiders and snakes - all this is in Jordan. You won’t meet them in the center of the capital, but on the outskirts, in small towns, as well as in desert areas, there are plenty of such guests. You always have to be careful.
- consanguineous marriages. Marriage without the consent of young and early marriages in Jordan is now unheard of. However, the union of cousins is still a common practice. For many families, this is seen as a convenient solution: relations within the clan are strengthened, and the boy and girl, who have grown up side by side since childhood, know each other and future relatives well. More or less accustomed to this course of things, I was lucky to attend such a wedding. Two twin sisters married their children. I could not believe my eyes: the mother of the groom and the mother of the bride are the same person. The only thing is that before entering into such a marriage, the couple is tested for genetic diseases. Only then do the authorities give the green light to the union.
- Polygamy. Everyone knows that Islam allows men to have 4 wives. A picture involuntarily pops up in my head: women, always scandalous and making sure that their husband gives them the same gifts. The reality turned out to be somewhat different. Polygamy in Jordan is not so common, but still there are precedents. I was “lucky”: my father-in-law has 2 wives. These women not only live peacefully under the same roof (each has a separate floor of a private house), but also call each other sisters, raise children together, go shopping, cook and receive guests. It often happens that two women are married by men who work abroad for many months: in Saudi Arabia, the Emirates and Qatar. One wife is waiting for them there, and the other in Jordan. And that suits everyone. What is it - hopelessness or female wisdom, it is difficult to answer. But local girls absorb the fact that a husband can marry again, with mother's milk.
- Terrible cold in winter. Before my arrival, it seemed to me that here is eternal summer. But winter, albeit belatedly, comes to Jordan. From November, a strong wind begins to blow, it often rains, and sometimes sleet. Despite the fact that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C, it is unbearably cold in the country, especially in the mountainous and northern regions. In addition, houses with stone floors and, as a rule, without heating, become damp and very uncomfortable.
camels
Religion
- How "other" are people in Jordan? What religion is dominant?
Jordan is dominated by Islam - 95% people profess it. Despite the fact that religion is closely intertwined in all aspects of life, most people adhere to a moderate interpretation and are very tolerant of representatives of other religions.
5% of citizens are Christians, mostly Catholics. On the same street, it is quite possible to meet a mosque and a church. Jordanians cannot be called "other". These are ordinary people with the same worries as in the rest of the world.
But in continuation of the topic of local hospitality, it is worth talking about the other side of the coin: the lack of personal space. It just doesn't exist. In the morning, a bored neighbor can easily come to you for an hour. It doesn't matter if you are busy or not. It is impossible to refuse a person who has entered under any pretext - this is the height of indecency. In the evening, without an invitation, it is quite possible to wait for relatives or friends. All this is very far from Western individualism and sometimes tiresome.
Traditions
- Tell us about the beautiful traditions and national holidays of this country.
There are 2 main holidays in Jordan: Muslim Eid al-Fitr (breaking the fast at the end of Ramadan) and Eid al-Adha (holiday at the end of the Hajj). In addition to religious rites, on these days the men of the family get together and visit all relatives and their children, giving them impressive cash gifts. Hostesses welcome guests with coffee and freshly baked homemade sweets with dates. Engagements and weddings are celebrated lavishly: about 500 people gather in special halls, restaurants or hotels. The celebration is almost always separate, women and men are in different rooms. The groom's side bears the costs. Grandiose holidays are also arranged in honor of graduation from school or university.
Attractions
- Where did your acquaintance with Jordan begin? Which ones did you like?
Before the birth of children, I managed to travel all over the country. Very interesting at the Dead Sea. The road to it from the capital rushes sharply down - you can feel the change in pressure and temperature difference. At the lowest point on the planet, it is hot and stuffy even in winter, when freezing rains pour in Amman. The sea and its surroundings are very beautiful, but, unfortunately, every year the water goes further and further - the sea dries up very quickly. Nevertheless, more and more luxury hotels are opening on the coast.
Another favorite place is the Wadi Rum desert and around Petra. Nature has painted these places in all shades of gold, red, pink and burgundy. And after sunset, it seems that the starry sky is very close. Spending the night among the sands in futuristic ball-tents with a transparent dome is one of the most vivid impressions in my life.
In Amman, I like the Fortress Hill, where the ancient temple of Hercules is located. You can enter this open-air museum for a nominal fee and simply wander among the ancient ruins. In addition, a magnificent panoramic view of the oldest part of the capital with a pile of houses and narrow streets opens up from the hill, and at the same time - of new areas with skyscrapers and highways. Here the passage of time and the change of civilizations are especially acutely felt.
And everyone who really wants to discover the country should go on a trip to local protected areas. Jordan is fraught with many beautiful pearls. Due to the fact that the state is geographically elongated from north to south, here you can find various natural areas, many of which are world-class nature reserves. They are home to unique species of birds, wild cats and mountain goats. It is especially beautiful in Jordan in the spring. In March and April, every dry thorn blossoms, and emerald grass grows to the waist. Everyone who used to consider Jordan a wild desert freezes in amazement.
Kitchen
- Tell us about the cuisine of this country. How different are the dishes from Russian cuisine? What is your favorite local dish?
All dishes in Jordan are very tasty and nutritious. Lamb, rice, legumes, vegetables and, of course, special spices predominate. The whole family gathers for breakfast, especially on weekends. On the table is a wide selection of products for every taste. Forget muesli and freshly squeezed juice. Breakfast in Jordan is a small lunch. A traditional Jordanian dish and the pride of every housewife is mansaf: tender lamb in a thick sour-milk sauce and snow-white rice, roasted almonds and a little parsley. For special piquancy, a tray with a mansaf is sometimes decorated with a ram's skull.
In Jordan, I learned how to cook a thousand and one rice dishes. Here, this cereal is combined with other products in an absolutely incredible way. Especially delicious is maglube - an inverted puff "pie" with rice, deep-fried potatoes, eggplant and cauliflower.
Jordanian stuffed cabbage is also unusual. They are unlike the large envelopes we are used to - round rice with minced meat, dried mint and fragrant spices is wrapped in thin and long rolls. The dish is prepared with garlic and a lot of cumin, poured with plenty of lemon juice.
I also fell in love with local sweets: crispy baklava, sweets with nuts and a delicate knafe dessert, which certainly accompanies all joyful events in the life of Jordanians. Knafeh is made from the thinnest strings of dough, resembling vermicelli, and unsalted sheep's cheese. The dessert is topped with ground pistachios and sprinkled with sugar syrup.
In general, sweets in Jordan are in great demand.. Small shops with goodies and chic big stores can be found on every corner. At expensive candy stores, often owned by family members for many years, a gift set of candies in a handmade wooden box can cost around $450!
Leisure
- How is life for women who moved to Jordan from the CIS?
Our compatriots, as well as There are quite a lot of women from the post-Soviet space in Jordan. The Russian and Ukrainian diaspora have their own clubs, which unite thousands of participants. Serious work is being done in them: poetry evenings, film festivals, circles and language courses are organized for everyone who wants to preserve their culture away from their homeland.
Job
- Who can get a job? Is the salary decent?
Even 10 years ago, there were few working women in Jordan. Today, everything has changed - many Jordanians strive to work. It is not uncommon to meet a policewoman, a soldier, a pharmacist in a pharmacy, a salesman, and even an Uber taxi driver. Our compatriots who are not accustomed to staying at home are not far behind. Especially lucky are those who have the profession of a doctor. The diploma here will have to be confirmed by passing an exam in English, but the work guarantees a good income and recognition in society.
The reverse side is a large influx of patients and their relatives. They willingly take foreigners to schools, mostly as English teachers. Those who still in Russia were able to take courses for hairdressers, make-up artists and cosmetologists did not fail. These professions are in great demand here, and our craftswomen are worth their weight in gold. You will have to work a lot, especially on weekends when weddings and engagements are arranged. But salary is high: cost and make-up for the bride starts from $350.
Children
- How many children do women who come from other countries and, in particular, from Russia decide to have? And are they resolved at all?
There were always many children in local families. But due to the rising cost of living, modern couples still rarely give birth to more than 4. Approximately the same number of babies are usually in mixed marriages. Children born to a Jordanian father automatically acquire the citizenship of the country and belong to the male family. In the event of his death, the responsibility for providing for them lies with his brothers or father. Contrary to popular stereotypes, after a divorce, children stay with their mother until at least 7 years old. At the same time, the ex-husband is obliged to fully provide for them. At an older age, the issue of guardianship is reviewed in court, taking into account the desire of the child himself. The only point is that a woman cannot remarry. Otherwise, the child automatically goes to the husband's family.
childbirth
- How comfortable are medical facilities for immigrant women: antenatal clinics, maternity hospitals? Are home and partner births welcome? Is it possible to stay together with a child in the maternity hospital, or are mothers separated from babies?
The wife of every Jordanian, regardless of nationality, is entitled to full medical care. If the husband is a civil servant, it is provided free of charge in public hospitals. In private clinics, it is covered by insurance paid by the employer. services in public medical institutions are moderate, but private clinics are expensive. The level of medicine and education of doctors is very high.
Pregnancy is usually carried out by a gynecologist in the district clinic, but huge queues, including due to the influx of Syrian refugees, force women to go to private clinics. Pregnancy in Jordan is not a disease. No one scares expectant mothers with threats and tones, does not force them to go to bed for prevention and take many tests. The doctor is visited once a month for ultrasound, control weighing and pressure measurement. All other examinations - only in the presence of specific pathologies and clear indications.
Nature in Jordan
Home births are not practiced in Jordan. Moreover, women often and willingly agree to a caesarean section: many sincerely believe that giving birth is much easier this way, and recovery is faster. However, such an operation is expensive (about $ 1,500 in a mid-level private clinic). Husbands are also not present at childbirth, they can only stay with their wife for a little while in labor, if the birth block is designed for one woman in labor. Laying the baby on the chest, late cutting of the umbilical cord, as well as the joint stay of the mother and the newborn are not here. The child is immediately taken away for a mandatory examination by a neonatologist, and the woman, if necessary, is stitched under anesthesia.
A new mother wakes up clean, neat and dressed. She is transferred to the ward, and the child is brought at the first request and always left for feeding. At night, the baby is in the children's department under the supervision of several specialists caring for newborns. If the birth went well, they are discharged from the hospital the next day, after a cesarean - one day later. In state clinics, it happens that there are practically no places, and the woman in labor leaves with the baby 2 hours after the birth.
Upbringing
- How is the upbringing of children? Maybe more permissiveness than if mom was at home? Or, on the contrary, everything is very strict?
Raising and caring for children in Jordan is the main pain of all mothers from the CIS. Children are loved madly here and all the relatives spoil them very much. But, unfortunately, this often manifests itself in uncontrolled watching TV, eating chips and sweets. There is no daily regimen for infants and preschoolers. The arrival of a new family member does little to change the general course of life: very tiny children are taken here with them to visit very noisy weddings, picnics and trips to the sea.
Boiling bottles and nipples, diets for breastfeeding, daily routine, developmental activities and the phased introduction of complementary foods - in Jordan only our compatriots are engaged in this, mercilessly fighting against Arab relatives. Here, a six-month-old baby can easily be fed rice with fatty lamb and drink cola. Paradoxically, children grow up healthy and strong.
Spring in Jordan
Education
- Is it possible for a child to go to kindergarten? Tell us about the daily routine in kindergarten. At what age can you attend kindergarten?
Kindergartens in Jordan are only private. There are nurseries for toddlers and groups for older children. Cheaper options are several rooms with toys, where teachers look after the children. In expensive kindergartens there are educational and sports activities. But this pleasure is not available to everyone. In addition, most groups only work until 12 noon, which is often not suitable for working mothers. That's why, having a family, women stop working, leave the kids in the care of grandmothers or hire a Filipino nanny.
- And the school? How many years is school education? Is the level of such education high?
School education is separate for boys and girls. Education starts at the age of 6 and lasts for 12 years. This is a very responsible stage. Parents approach the choice of school thoroughly and, if the family budget allows, send their children to private educational institutions. The level of education is high in both private and public institutions. However, public schools are often overcrowded. Because of the Syrian refugees, children study in 2 shifts, and there are not enough teachers. Private institutions provide meals, developmental programs, take students home by bus. Graduate class is the hardest. All students pass very difficult tests in all subjects. Universities in the country are paid, but it will not work to enter any specialty. It all depends on the results of the final exams at school - each profession has its own passing score. It is the highest for future doctors.
I don't plan to leave Jordan. Despite cultural differences and instability in the region, live peacefully in the country. It is also easier here to achieve a decent standard of living for yourself and your children, doing honest work. Anyone who moves to Jordan for permanent residence should be advised not to try to fight windmills, but simply to accept the local way of life - traditions here have not changed for centuries. The main thing is to have a reliable person nearby who will help you overcome the difficult period of adaptation.
The decision to go on vacation to this country was born in an instant. The person whom I trust with all my heart said only a couple of phrases about Jordan, and I felt - I'm here! And I didn’t even specifically become interested in what the political situation was there, nature, weather, because I knew I would go no matter what. I chose a place to relax near the city of Aqaba in much the same way - I saw the sky above the local beach in a photograph of extraordinary beauty, and everything else was no longer important. Do you think it's frivolous? And I'll tell you that we all need to turn off logic and mind more often and trust our heart. All the most wonderful things in my life happened when I did just that. And when I flew to Jordan, it seemed to me that I was going on a fabulous journey. And so it turned out - I assure you!
So, I'm in Jordan. From the airport in Amman to Aqaba we were driven by a Jordanian driver who spoke Russian tolerably. It turned out that he studied in Belarus, his wife is Russian. All the way he talked about her: how wonderful Sveta is, how tasty the soup cooks for him, etc. and so on. When I called her, I invariably read the conversation with the words: “I love you.” Insanely touching.
While we were driving, we were stopped several times by local traffic cops. But they never checked our documents even at customs posts (and there are plenty of them, since Jordan borders on three countries - Egypt, Saudi Arabia and Israel). As soon as they listened to the words "rus", they passed without talking. Sometimes the driver didn’t have to say that he was carrying Russians - the “traffic cops” knew about it themselves, because our minibus smelled strongly of alcohol (not everyone could resist duty free). The Jordanian policemen made sure to wave their hands and break into a charming smile. Russian Jordanians love. For what? For some reason, they think that we are similar to them in character. Temperament. May be. Be that as it may, upon hearing Russian speech, almost everywhere in Jordan they smiled at us so affably and so sincerely that it evoked a good feeling in return. It turned out that the Russians in Jordan have an open way even to places where other tourists are not allowed. But the Americans are not favored here. And the English. If they stop their car, they will turn everything in it over and check and recheck it themselves.
police officers
Still, I would like to talk about them separately. There are many of them in the country. Almost like ours, but ... Here, the guards are all with higher education (this is a prerequisite). And they don't take bribes. As the taxi driver Radi said, if he violated the rules, the policeman can simply let him go, but he won’t take the money, because it will become known (like the driver will tell his neighbor, the other one, and the city is small, everyone knows each other) and then his name will be entered into the database data and he will not get a job anywhere. If only we could! Many police officers stand at their posts with weapons. Or even near a huge Hummer with a machine gun on the roof. As I understand it, all these security measures are in order not to let the terrorists through. Jordanians are proud that their country is now one of the most peaceful and therefore do not relax. They installed metal frames at the entrance to each hotel, for example ... There is practically no crime in the country. It's amazing, but you can leave your bag on the street and no one will touch it. Drop your wallet, come back - it will lie in its place. Well, unless the gypsies pick him up (and they are even here and the Jordanians do not like them).
Water, petrol and more
Water is of great value here. After all, most of the country is desert. Therefore, it would seem that a bottle of water here should cost insanely expensive, but no - about 50-70 cents, that is, definitely not more expensive than ours. Jordanians pay for utilities, including water for a family (of 5-7 people) for three months (they receive receipts once every 3 months, not monthly) for about ... 50 dollars! So the state took care of them. When they hear about our tariffs for a communal apartment, they are sincerely amazed. Moreover, their average salaries are higher than ours (not counting Moscow). Gasoline costs around $1 per litre. And again, this is despite the fact that there is no oil in Jordan. No oil, no gas, no other resources. “It's amazing, everything is in Russia! And you have as much water as you want, and you pay for all this many times more than we do!” - every now and then the guide Mahmoud Wasef exclaimed. And taxes, by the way, we have about the same: Jordanians pay at the end of the year 12% of their earnings. This money goes exclusively to medical care and pensions.
The route through the desert from Amman to Aqaba was laid about half a century ago. The road is just perfect. For 400 km, not a single dimple-hole. I was even offended: when I drive from Moscow to Bryansk, the same 400 km, the suspension of the car has to be repaired. And here - the desert and on you, such a road! And all the markings from below are highlighted, so, as in a computer game, you won’t get out of the way even on a dark night. In general, it is funny to watch how a Bedouin who has stopped somewhere on the side of the road pitches something like a tent for himself and connects a mini-fridge to some invisible outlet (is it in the ground, or what?).
Women of Jordan
I can talk about them for hours. I'll start, of course, with clothes. I remember the first morning of my stay at the hotel I went to the pool in shorts and a T-shirt and was stunned. There sunbathed (if I may say so) girls wrapped in black. Moreover, some were wearing something like raincoats. They settled down on sunbeds as if they were really sunbathing. On top of the raincoats, beach towels were wrapped ... Apparently, it's a shame to cover up, as one of the European guests joked. Husbands and children were in swimming trunks. What a forty-degree heat! Looking at the Jordanian women, taking off their T-shirt and “bare” to the swimsuit was somehow embarrassing even. And in all seriousness, I thought for a long time how to plunge into the pool. Maybe run for a blouse? I was brought to my senses by two European women who "shamelessly" came out in thongs (at least I had swimming shorts - I knew that I was going to an Arab country).
Already on the sea coast I watched the Jordanians. Wrapped in their robes, they swam just like that, but in .... mask and fins. It looked very funny. But I must say that in the city of Aqaba (and my hotel was not far from it), many women walk almost like Europeans, only with their heads covered. There is also an uncovered one (apparently "fashionistas" who came from the capital - Amman). Nobody threw stones at them. At least with me. In general, the Jordanians, it seemed to me, are a very tolerant people. There seem to be no strict requirements for women's clothing as such, and it is believed that this is the choice of every lady and her husband. But most stick to tradition. And by the way, Jordanians don't cover their faces. If you see a woman here wrapped up so that one slit for her eyes is visible, then this is coming from neighboring Saudi Arabia. And they are just not very tolerant. One of the men, who came to Aqaba on vacation from the SA, was very indignant when he saw a Russian girl (she is from Yekaterinburg) in a thong near the pool. For a long time I explained something to the hotel staff, but he shrugged his hands, they say, this is her right. As a result, the "Arabian" was offended and did not even come out for dinner.
Jordanian men are, of course, madly in love with watching European tourists. More specifically, tourists. Well, where else will they see such a show with bare arms, legs, shoulders? And on the sea in general .... There were probably two dozen security guards, lifeguards, cleaners, etc. at our beach club. While there were about the same number of tourists swimming there. I think so - the Jordanians worked there for free, just to look at women in thongs))). But what is interesting - they look somehow ... not vulgar, but innocently admiring. After their many views, you don’t want to wash yourself right there. But back to women.
My guide explained to me that now it is difficult for women without higher education and work to get married. They do not take them ... So now 30% of women work in Jordan (an unheard of figure for a country where this has never been accepted). And I was lucky to see a policewoman!
And by the way, Jordanians are allowed to have multiple wives. But now not many people take advantage of this opportunity. First, it's expensive. Secondly, the demand, I repeat, for educated working women, and such women do not want to see competitors in their home))). Although I spoke with a taxi driver (he hardly earns much), who had two wives and was going to marry a third. I don't know what attracts them? Either he takes the most unpromising (illiterate and poor), or what secret he has ....
As they say, to be continued...
Leaving in 2005 to Jordan to work under a contract, the teacher of the Southwestern State University (then still a polytechnic institute) Dmitry Skopin could not even imagine that he would stay in this country for a long time. Kuryanin expected to work at Al-Balqa University, which is located in one of the most beautiful capitals in the world - Amman - for exactly a year. Six years have passed since then...
Jordan is called a unique country. According to scientists, its land keeps from 16 to 20 thousand monuments of history and culture of past eras. Jesus Christ was baptized here, Moses saw the Promised Land here, he is buried here, many biblical prophets lived here... In addition, it is believed that this is one of the safest and most peaceful Arab countries. At least that's what they say in tourist guides. Is this really so - we asked Dmitry and Larisa Skopin when they arrived in their native Kursk on vacation.
Books and honey were brought to Jordan
Dmitry's life changed in 2005, when a delegation from a Jordanian university visited the Polytechnic University. Foreign guests conveyed the request of the President of Al-Balqa University to recommend a teacher in computer engineering. “They were ready to sign a contract with a specialist capable of teaching in English,” Skopin explains. – The rector offered me to go to Jordan for a year. I confess that I had concerns. The Middle East was associated with constant armed conflicts, wars... Naturally, I called my wife to get her opinion.”
“And I immediately agreed,” Larisa smiles. – Then for us it was the most suitable option. Usually we think for a long time before making a decision, but at that time everything happened very quickly. If you are invited, you have to go - we decided at the family council. But just in case, they took a minimum of things - only the most necessary.
Larisa and Dmitry laugh, remembering how they flew to Jordan with large trunks in which the "shuttles" carried goods. “There was no money for decent suitcases,” they say. - The trunk with books turned out to be the heaviest - they took a lot of scientific literature. And they brought honey as a gift! This product is highly valued in Jordan, it is not produced there. In addition, Russian honey is considered one of the best in the world.”
At first, the people of Kursk rented, as they say, "a simple apartment with an area of about 90 square meters." Then, when the children were transported to Jordan, they moved closer to the center of Amman to more spacious housing. “Apartments in Jordan are always large – 130-150 square meters,” the couple explains. “The rental price (about 10,000 rubles a month) includes the use of underground parking – not a single apartment building is rented without it.”
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As the Skopins note, they quickly realized that Amman is a safe and comfortable city. Moreover, foreigners in Jordan, according to Dmitry, are treated well. “A foreigner is perceived either as a tourist who came to spend money, or as a professional who will help make their country more developed,” he says. - And the Russians have a particularly warm attitude. A huge number of Jordanian students studied in the Soviet Union. And now 70% of the teaching staff of Al-Balqa University are graduates of our universities. They speak excellent Russian and fondly remember the time they spent in the USSR, which they call a heavenly place.”
Picnic on the Dead Sea
First, the Skopins took their youngest son to Jordan - he was then two years old. The eldest was moved a little later, as soon as he finished the fourth grade.
“Jordan was created for family life,” says Larisa. – There are many amusement parks, supermarkets even have special days when shops are open only for families – parents, grandparents with children come. Jordanians have huge families, and love for children is in everyone's blood. If a school bus is coming, everyone gives way to it. Drivers of yellow buses break all the rules, but they are not punished - they are taking children! Our sons speak three languages. The younger one got used to it very quickly and spoke Arabic. At the age of four, he was sent to a local kindergarten. Their preschool education is different from ours - no walks, games, fuss with toys ... Everything is close to schooling. Already at this age they begin to study English, Arabic and mathematics. Arabs are shy if they cannot speak English. If you don't know this language, you won't be able to go to an international conference, you won't be invited to another country, you won't get a prestigious job...
- Did you learn Arabic?
“It seems to me that it is impossible to learn it perfectly,” Larisa smiles. - The language is extremely difficult! It includes a large number of sounds that a European person cannot always pronounce. They have a completely different mechanism for the formation of speech - a lot of guttural sounds. A slight modification, it would seem, of the same sound leads to a complete misunderstanding. The meaning of the word depends on this. For example, the word "hamam". In one case it will be a dove, in the other it will be a toilet. The difference is in the subtle difference in the pronunciation of just one sound. As for grammar... The spelling of letters depends on where they are - at the beginning, middle or end of a word. Plural rules for masculine and feminine genders also differ. In addition, the Arabic literary language is very different from the spoken language. If you ask a local resident how any object will be in Arabic, he will definitely name a literary variant. At the same time, an illiterate person may not understand you, because he did not go to school and does not know literary Arabic.
Kuryans actively travel around Jordan, where there are many unique places. “The Dead Sea is located 70 kilometers from Amman, just an hour away by car,” says Dmitry. We often spend weekends there. Somehow we went at the end of January. It was cool in Amman - about plus seven ... And the closer we drove to the Dead Sea, the warmer it became. The air temperature on the coast is +30°С. So people go there to warm up! The Dead Sea is a unique natural monument. This is a salt lake, the surface of which lies 400 meters below sea level. It has the highest atmospheric pressure. We had an empty plastic bottle in the car, it just squeezed! In summer, swimming in the Dead Sea is almost impossible - because of the heat, salt water heats up, becomes hot and resembles glycerin in consistency.
Crazy prices in Kursk!
Arriving on vacation, Skopins were amazed at the cost of groceries in Kursk stores. “For six years, food prices in Jordan have grown by a maximum of 10%,” Dmitry explains. - Here - at times. To be honest, the prices are crazy! We are already used to the fact that cucumbers and tomatoes cost 10 rubles per kilogram all year round, and the most expensive fish is no more than 300 rubles. At the same time, they will immediately cut it for you - gut it, remove the scales and cut it into portioned pieces. If you take meat, you will be asked what you plan to cook? If cutlets, they will immediately twist it, chops - beaten off, stew - cut into small pieces ... They also cut chickens, removing the skin, cutting off wings and legs. More often than not, we prefer to do it ourselves. They're throwing the skin off the chicken! In our opinion, the most delicious.
– And yet you have to follow certain rules in a Muslim country...
“Jordan has changed a lot in recent years. Now it is a secular state, which is developing at a fast pace. When I first came to Amman, I noticed that boys and girls do not communicate with each other at all. I watched as a guy and a girl were walking at a distance of several meters. They were talking without even looking at each other! Now everything is changing. Young people strive to get a good education, find a decent job, and only then think about the family and children. And more and more often they say that they plan to have 2-3 children.
“Moreover, it is very rare to meet a woman in a veil on the street,” Larisa continues. - Naturally, it is not customary to wear mini-skirts and open T-shirts. The most popular clothes for women are jeans and T-shirts. To understand the culture and traditions of this country, you need to live there. It is generally accepted in our country that women in Muslim countries have a hard time ... And in Jordan they are treated as pampered creatures who need to be pampered, groomed and cherished. The Jordanian does not carry heavy bags - this is the duty of a man. And this attitude towards a woman is instilled from childhood. When our son went to the Arab kindergarten, they studied the measures of weight. The textbook explains it like this: “Do you go shopping with your mother to buy gold? What scales did the jeweler use?”, “Have you ever bought potatoes with your dad? What scales did the seller use? That is, with mom you can buy gold, and with dad - potatoes.
What about polygamy?
– In all the time of our life in Jordan, we saw only one such family. Only a few can afford even two wives - a man must be very rich. After all, the second wife needs to buy an apartment no worse than the first. It is necessary to support her, to provide for children ... Any woman who gets married signs a marriage contract, which stipulates the amount that she will receive in the event of a divorce. In addition, usually the bride is given 2-3 kilograms of gold for the wedding. And after the divorce, these treasures remain with her. Sometimes one gets the impression that the rights of Jordanian women are protected much better than Russian ones.
- But at least something you did not like in this country?
The couple thought for a second ... “Probably the habit of local residents to look at foreigners with curiosity and without the slightest embarrassment,” Larisa noted. - I have been living there for six years, and for six years they have been closely “studying” me. When I come to Russia, at first I feel a little uncomfortable - why is no one looking at me?
“Over the years, Jordan has become our second home,” Dmitry adds. - When we are there, I want to go to Kursk. And having arrived home, we begin to miss Amman.
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There is no need to compare developed countries with a niche in Russia, a miserable comparison will turn out and not at all in the direction of Russia.
the king to power and order to educate people from childhood is necessary, and for this you need not to fill your pockets, but to work for the good of the country in which our children will live, work and work!
Interesting article. She learned a lot about the country for herself.
I'm glad for this family that everything worked out so well for them in life. Teach you more!
but we have the cheapest moonshine
and I’m a neighbor, I’m already 18 years old, the photo shows the opposite shore of the Dead Sea, that’s us. I also learned a lot about Jordan, it’s cool there ... but not everyone! 3 million Palestinians live there, refugees from Israel and want to return to us ... this is HORRIBLE!
Girls in Jordan are very cheerful and joyful.
In fact, they completely overturned my idea of the enslaved women of the East.
A girl puts on a headscarf when she becomes a girl.
True, our guide told us, and we ourselves saw it, that in Jordan a woman can dress as she wants, and no one will show her condemnation even with a glance.
Education in public schools in Jordan is segregated. In private schools, boys and girls study together.
Girls can get an education in the six millionth Jordan in 33 higher educational institutions, 12 of them are state universities. There is no discrimination in employment.
These are the outfits girls wear in hot weather. Public opinion is still pressing. 75% of Jordanian families are orthodox Muslims.
Girls leave the King Hussein Machine Museum
Girl in Petra sells beads
Little Bedouins want to give the puppy water to drink.
Schoolgirls on excursions in Petra
Girls in Jordan serve in the army.
They join the army voluntarily.
For some reason, in Jordan, it is girls who go on all excursions in crowds, somehow there are few men at cultural sites.
It is very hot in tight clothes and in uniform.
Cadets next to the dervish.
This man here tried to stop me from taking a picture of his wife. There are a lot of women in Jordan wrapped up in this way, but I was embarrassed to photograph them.
Our guide, a Russian woman from Tbilisi, who has been married to an Arab for 27 years, told us a little about wedding ceremonies.
In order for an Arab to marry, he must have a lot of money, because he must provide his wife with everything necessary and give her a lot of gold. Therefore, Arab men marry after 30 years, when they receive an education and earn money for a wedding.
Usually it happens like this, our guide Stella told us. Somewhere around the age of 35, a man no longer wants to get married, because he is already used to it and he is already doing well, but his mother begins to worry and looks for a bride for him.
Then the bride and groom are introduced. If a girl completely covers her face, then she can show it to the groom in the presence of her brother or father. Women from the groom's clan in the bathhouse look at the figure of the girl. There are many other tricks to find out about the girl's health. For example, she is offered to chew on unpeeled nuts to check if her teeth are healthy, and so on.
If, during the initial examination, the girls and the man decide that they are suitable for each other, then all the men of the groom's clan, and this can be 50 people or a hundred, meet with the men from the bride's clan and ask for her hand. The girl must say how much gold she wants for the wedding. They usually marry equally. The average family usually buys about $8,000 worth of gold for a bride for a wedding. If the men of the bride's family agree to give the girl away, then they are offered to drink coffee, that is, the deal is completed.
A six-month period of courting the bride begins, when a man and a girl meet in a cafe, go to the cinema, guests, and so on. During this time, they select an apartment for themselves, furnish it with furniture and everything necessary. This is primarily the concern of the groom. At this time, they, having got to know each other better, may refuse to marry. There is nothing wrong with this. Before the wedding, of course, no sexual relations.
The wedding is usually very large. All relatives and friends are invited. The bride puts on a beautiful white dress. If the bride does not want to show her face, then the wedding is played "in two halves" male and female. On one side, women and the bridegroom hang out with the bride without a veil, on the other half, the groom periodically comes out to the men so that they are not bored.
The head of the family is traditionally considered a man. A man, for example, buys all the products for the family, solves the issues of providing for, resting, studying children, and so on, although, as our guide Stella cunningly says, as in the well-known saying "a man is a head, and a wife is a neck."
Men can take up to four wives, but they are required by law to provide each with a separate apartment and full maintenance. Almost all men in Jordan now have only one wife, Stella says. When we asked if her husband had a second wife, she was very indignant and said that she would not tolerate such a thing.
In a divorce, a man must provide a woman with everything necessary. The child is considered the property of a man, but until the age of 15 the court gives the child to the mother, and then he is asked which parent he would like to live with. And even if a man tries not to provide only his child, then Stella's eyes sparkle militantly. The woman will immediately file a lawsuit against her ex-husband.
Here in such black clothes, Jordanian girls went out to swim on the city beach. They are so in these black robes and dipped. European women can swim in the Dead and Red Sea in Jordan only in five-star hotels that have their own beaches, 4- and 3-star hotels do not have their own beaches, you have to go to the city. If you undress there, then no one will tell you anything, but they will look SO, says our guide Stella, that you yourself will not want to swim in a bathing suit anymore.
We experienced it in the hot springs gorge. In the black basalt gorge in which our hotel stood, waterfalls poured from above with thermal water with a temperature of jets from 30 to 80 degrees. And it was possible to walk under these streams in special baths from warm to hot. Well, we, European girls, went in bathing suits, but a crowd of Arabs in swimming trunks to the knees, who periodically plunged into the water to the waist, followed us from the bathhouse to the bathhouse. In connection with this, I remembered an anecdote: "one rooster says to another: Let's go to the supermarket, look at naked hens." We felt very uncomfortable about it.
- But what about hot Arab men who get married at about 35 years old, manage all this time, - I asked our guide. - I don't know, - Stella answered, trying to make too honest naive eyes.
- Donkeys, boys and men. It's developed here. - one Arabist from our group answered my question. - Sexual intercourse with boys and men is also punishable by law, but not as strictly as with women. There are also prostitutes that everyone knows about, especially a lot of them come from Ukraine. Whole planes are brought from Kyiv.
Another woman from our group, who has an Iranian husband, told me that these wrapped women are not a blunder themselves. At least in Iran, the two most popular plastic surgeries are: the first is rhinoplasty - a straight, neat little nose is made from a hump nose, and the second is the restoration of the hymen.
This is Lot's wife turned into a pillar of salt as she turned around as she left Sodom.
