How to set strings correctly. How to string guitar strings

Every novice musician sooner or later faces the need to change the strings. In fact, it turns out that not everyone knows and fully understands this process. Therefore, we decided to combine information from online articles and videos into one material: today we will tell you how to change guitar strings correctly.

We have divided our material into two parts: replacing metal strings(for example, consider the case with an acoustic guitar, the process of changing strings on an electric guitar is based on the same principles, and it is usually less complicated) and nylon string replacement.

A short summary of why string tugging technology varies so much depending on the material of the strings themselves:

• Nylon synthetic strings are softer and have less tension;
• Metal strings create more tension and “swing” the guitar more: hence, including a more voluminous and powerful sound;
• On acoustic guitars, unlike classical ones, the saddle has a reinforced construction. Hence the first rule - do not put metal strings on a classical guitar - they can simply tear out the saddle!
• Also in acoustic guitars, due to the greater rigidity of the strings, a truss rod is used, which protects the neck from bending.

How can you tell an acoustic guitar from a classical guitar? Take a look at the image below and you will understand everything. We will not touch on the differences in the size and shape of the soundboard and neck (after all, they are different), but we will pay attention to the peg mechanics and the saddle. Metal strings are not attached to the string itself, but are "drowned" deep into the body of the guitar with the help of special pins.

Classical guitar heads usually have a plastic horizontal shaft that is wider than the shaft on acoustic guitars. In the case of acoustics, it is made of metal and is located vertically.

How to change metal strings on an acoustic guitar?

This process has several stages - we will consider each of them in detail.

1. First, let's loosen all the pegs so that the strings hang freely over the neck and soundboard. Don't be afraid of the sudden drop in string tension that counterbalances the force of the truss rod. For those 30-60 minutes that you spend on changing the strings, the neck will not lead.

To loosen the strings, it is very convenient to use special inexpensive turntable accessories.

1. When the string is loose enough, you can just gently pull it out of the peg.

1. Next, you need to get the pins that fix the strings in the saddle. Most musicians do this with pliers or a screwdriver, which naturally leaves the pins scratched, scuffed, and in the worst cases, cracked.

You and I are not such barbarians, so we will use a special tool (by the way, ordinary turntables for tuning pegs almost always have a cutout specifically for dismantling the pins).

1. When the pin is removed, we can take out the string, roll it up and dispose of it.

1. So, your guitar is without strings. Hug and pity her Wipe it from dust, clean the neck from dirt and grease (they collect between the fret plates even for the cleanest guitarists), treat the guitar elements with special tools.

1. It's time to string new guitar strings! In general, it is recommended to do this in pairs, and not in order - it's faster and more convenient. That is, first you set the 6th and 1st string, then the 5th and 2nd, and finally the 3rd and 4th.

We insert the ball-tip of the string into the hole in the saddle and fix it with a pin, tightly fix all the elements.

1. We first completely thread the free end of the string into the peg and then move it back a little (by 5-6 centimeters) - this margin is needed to make a couple of turns around the peg shaft.

We form 1-2 turns with the help of a peg bud or with the help of a turntable. Try to make no more than 3 turns, while one of them is better to put over the protruding "tail" of the string, and the rest - under it. So the string will be securely fixed in the tuning pegs, and many turns will not be required.

Remember: a large number of turns is an evil, which leads to the fact that the guitar is more likely to be out of tune!

Therefore, we form a small neat knot. If you look at the headstock from the front of the guitar, then 1-3 strings should be wound clockwise, and 4-6 - counterclockwise.

1. It is not necessary to tighten the string strongly yet - it is important to achieve reliable fixation in the peg hole, as well as to form the minimum working tension. Try to wind and tension each string very smoothly, without sudden movements and without overstretching.
2. Next, we use wire cutters (by the way, those that can be found on pliers are already suitable here) and cut off the excess length of the string from its free end to the peg. Leave an allowance of 1-2 cm.

1. Finally, you can tune each string in pitch. Don't be discouraged if the tuning floats a little and the guitar goes out of tune - this usually lasts for about a day due to the strings "setting" into working condition and stretching a little. Just adjust it periodically. You can speed up the shrinkage process by making bends on each string.

In general, as we said, the process of changing strings takes about half an hour. Gradually, you will understand how to change the strings on your guitar in 10-15 minutes, and you will be able to do it even in emergency situations right before going on stage or before a rehearsal.

How to string nylon strings on a classical guitar?

Now it's time to learn the features of replacing nylon strings - and, believe me, there are enough of them.

1. We dismantle the old strings. You can either use the same scheme as with metal strings, or simply loosen the string slightly and then cut it with scissors over the fingerboard. If you choose the second option, make sure you loosen the string enough so that it doesn't bounce and hurt you.

1. We unravel the knot of the string on the saddle and take it out, we also take the other end of the string out of the peg.

1. We remove the strings for everyone and do not forget about the care of the instrument: we wipe the soundboard, fretboard, fret plates, if necessary, use special tools.

1. Now it's time to put on some new strings. We use the same pairwise scheme as in the case of an acoustic guitar and metal strings: first we string the 1st and 6th strings, then the 2nd and 5th, and finish with the 3rd and 4th.

But here we are waiting for the most important difference between nylon and metal strings: there is no ball on either of their ends! We tell you what to do with it.

Let's start with the thickest string. We stretch it into the hole of the string holder by 10-11 cm.

1. Next, we form a loop: for this, we draw the tip of the string under its main part.

1. We draw the tip around the string and thread it into the loop - we got a blank for the knot.

1. Now we press the main part of the string to the soundboard - this must be done to avoid unraveling the knot in the future.

1. Now we take the tip of the string and pull the main part of the string and its tip in different directions, thereby tightening the knot.

1. We pass the second free end of the string into the hole on the peg shaft.

1. We make a half-turn of the peg shaft so that the tip of the string is on top.

1. We wrap the tip around the main part of the string.

1. Next, rotate the peg and achieve the desired tension. In general, 3-4 turns are enough for nylon strings.

1. Now about installing unwound strings (usually 1-3 strings are pure nylon with no metal wrap). We also thread them 10-11 cm.

1. We begin to form a loop in the same way - we draw the free end of the string under the main part.

1. We make a turn of the tip around the main part of the string - but not once, but several times. By the way, you can do the same with the strings in the winding - in general, this is a matter of taste.

1. We tighten the knot in the same way - we pull the tip and the working part of the string in different directions. Be sure to leave a margin at the end of the string so that it does not pop out of the knot.

1. The second end is installed in the peg in the same way as strings with a winding.

1. That's all! It remains to pull the remaining four strings by analogy.

1. We also carefully trim the ends of the strings to get rid of ugly “tails”.

It will take you a long time the first time (by the way, you may not succeed - for a test, try cheap sets of strings until you get used to it, for example, these).

Be prepared for the fact that the process of "shrinkage" and tightening of the strings in the case of nylon lasts longer - sometimes up to 6-7 days. To speed up the process, you can first stretch the strings a quarter to half a tone higher than necessary. However, be careful if you have a set of high tension strings - be careful not to break them. Don't forget to tune your guitar.

Now some life hacks:

• Try to form coils closer to the middle of the shaft and the hole for the string. Avoid turns that are formed close to the headstock tree (problem areas are indicated by red arrows in the photo below) - with such a tensioning scheme, the risk of breaking the string during the next tuning increases significantly.

• Avoid severe bending of the string after the nut in the area of ​​the peg mechanics (the problem area is highlighted in red in the photo above). To do this, form turns on the 1st and 6th string to the right of the string hole, and on the remaining strings - to the left. Schematically, we depicted this recommendation in the photo:

• As you probably already noticed in the photo above, additional single knots are also visible at the very tip of the string in the region of the saddle. They are optional and are an additional insurance against slipping out of the string from the loop.

Some sets of nylon strings are already sold with such insurance: for this, thickenings of the string are formed at the production stage. In this case, no additional knots are required.

Note also that individual sets of nylon strings already have balls at the end, similar to metal strings. This makes it possible to change guitar strings many times faster and without additional manipulations with knots.

Today, music is replete with an amazing variety of types, styles and sub-styles, as well as techniques for playing instruments. In the 21st century, it is definitely impossible to develop any clear formulas and precise solutions for musical genres in terms of striving to get the perfect sound. And the reasons for this are quite simple: each musician has his own particular style of playing the guitar - and in this article we will talk about guitarists - his own preferences in the field of shaping the sound of the instrument and the group as a whole.

When it comes to the tastes of guitarists, the choice of certain string thicknesses is usually the most controversial. What does it depend on?

Musicians' preference for string gauges is largely shaped by three factors:

• The scale in which the guitarist plays;
• Features of the tool, in particular, the size of its scale;
• The strength of the musician's fingers, which determines the comfort when playing sets of different thicknesses (compare the fingers of Jimmy Page, who was a fan of "eights" and SRV, who played .013-.056/.058 sets).

And if the strength of the fingers is a purely individual parameter, then it is quite possible to make certain recommendations and identify the relationship between the string tension force, its tuning and the scale of the instrument. That is what we will talk about today.

String tension in the history of guitar building

Oddly enough, but there were no rigid standards for the thickness / tension of strings until almost the middle of the last century! Only in the late 30s of the 20th century, John D'Addario introduced the standardization of string gauges and their separation in his production, launching three types of acoustic guitar kits on the market: with light, normal and strong tension.

Almost until the very end of the 20th century - to be more precise, somewhere until the mid-80s - such standardized kits were enough to satisfy the needs of all musicians. Periodically, on special orders, major manufacturers also released new sets: most often they were hybrids from existing strings, which were used for open tunings and lowering tunings. In the end, by the 90s, such proposals became very numerous - musicians increasingly used non-standard musical solutions, went beyond musical trends and tried to make the most of all the possibilities of the guitar in popular musical styles. All this led to a sharp increase in the popularity of open guitar tunings (open tuning), more frequent use of lowered tuning variations, when the sixth string is tuned a tone lower than the traditional note (drop tuning), the development of baritone guitars, as well as non-traditional instruments with 7th and 5 strings. Such a leap in the music industry has contributed to the fact that unusual sets of strings began to appear on the market more and more, musicians began to search for their favorite "caliber" and their sound - and such major manufacturers as D'Addario gave guitarists the opportunity to do this.

Theoretical aspects of string tension

Each year, the customer service departments of major music brands receive thousands of letters asking them to solve their problems with choosing the most suitable set of strings.

As a side note: further we will talk about the most accurate selection of strings for your preferences using the company's products as an example.D'Addario. If you are not sure if you want to deal with such painstaking and careful calculations of string tension, or you do not have much experience in choosing strings or have played only 1-2 different gauges, please refer to our review article "". It summarizes the recommendations of the major string manufacturers on choosing the optimal set for standard and lowered guitar tunings.

To help you choose your strings, DiAddario has created a great Online String Tensioning Assistant- it contains all the necessary data to select individual strings for the desired system. Next, we will tell you how not to get confused in all the tables in the manual, but for now, some useful information that will help you better understand the features of tension calculation.

The formulas from the manual use 3 indicators: string weight, scale length and frequency (Weight, Scale Length and Frequency, respectively. The tension is calculated according to the following formula, which we will give in Russian and English versions:

Tension = (String weight * (2 * Scale value * Frequency)^ 2) / 386.4

Tension = (Weight * (2 * Scale * Frequency) ^ 2) / 386.4

How does tension affect the player's feel?

Oddly enough, but the thickness of the string does not directly affect the tension: the main thing that matters is its mass, as well as the length of the scale and the value of the frequency to which this string is tuned. Manufacturers use the most unexpected technologies, technologies and materials (nickel, phosphorus, nylon, etc.) in order to achieve different tensions even with the same diameter of the core and winding - and even, sometimes, using the same materials.

A little about the scale. It is the distance from the nut, located at the head of the neck, to the point where the strings kink on the bridge. The longer it is, the higher the tension will be, all other things being equal. As an example, a .009 gauge first string on a Stratocaster (25.5" scale) will feel tighter and stiffer than a Gibson Les Paul (24.75" scale) when both are tuned to E or any other note of the same pitch. Therefore, in general, thicker strings are recommended for a guitar with a smaller scale.

Here are the most common scale lengths for modern instruments:

Most guitars are 24.75”, 25.5”

7- and 8-string electric guitars - 26.5”, 27”, 29”

Bass - 30”, 32”, 34” or 36”

Mandolin and Mandola - 13 7/8” and 15 7/8”, respectively

Banjo - 26 ¼”

ATTENTION! Before you start calculating the tension and thickness of the strings, make sure that your guitar is properly tuned. Check the correct setting of the distance from the strings to the fretboard, then the scales, at the very end - tune the strings according to the pitch.

How to measure string tension

String tension is expressed in pounds: a table tension of 12.2 pounds means that it is pulling with a force equal to the force exerted by gravity on a 12.2-pound body. If you currently feel a comfortable string tension and plan to change the tuning of all the strings - just study the guide we linked to above and purchase a set with a gauge that will provide identical tension in the changed tuning.

It's time for a concrete example!

So let's say your guitar has a set of D'Addario EXL1140 (10-13-17-30-42-52) strings. Below is a table detailing the model of each string in the set, its diameter and tension for standard tuning. Suppose you want to keep the same tension, but start playing in Drop D tuning (ebgDAD) - now all you need to do is to determine the required sixth string gauge from the table.

1. Find your type of strings in the manual on page 6: XL Nickelplated Steel (XL series, steel with nickel-plated winding), find a string with a caliber .052 and note E (Mi), we get a tension force of ~ 22 pounds (indicated in red).

2. We look for the note D (Re) in the table and a similar tension (indicated in green) - we find that the most similar tension will be strings with a caliber of .056 (20.9 pounds, the tension will be slightly weaker) or .059 (23.3 pounds - the tension will be slightly stronger).

Thus, for Drop D in this case, the optimal set is 10-13-17-30-42-56/59.

Using a similar technique, you can change any string in the set to the one with which you will be more comfortable playing. You can buy strings by the piece in our sections of single strings:

Please note that the information provided is relevant only for products from D'Addario. Just in case, we duplicate the link to

Every experienced guitarist knows that strings need to be changed regularly. If this rule is neglected, the sound of the guitar and its general condition will deteriorate rapidly. Therefore, every beginner sooner or later faces the question “how to change guitar strings”. The process of changing strings on acoustic guitar, electric guitar and bass guitar will be discussed below.

For most beginner musicians, this process seems eerily complicated and incomprehensible.

In fact, you do not need to possess any special skills, and even a person who is far from music can change the strings with a clear and step-by-step instruction.

Professional guitarists change strings every month or even every week. However, for an amateur guitarist who devotes about an hour a day to his hobby, it is enough to change the strings every two to three months. In general, the question "how often to change the strings" is quite philosophical. There are a huge number of manufacturers, materials and thickness standards. You can understand all this diversity by reading here. One set of strings can perform its functions properly for three months, and the other will become unusable in a couple of weeks. Therefore, the best option is to monitor the condition of the strings daily and purchase a new set if:

• You notice that the sound of the guitar has become "faded" and inexpressive;
• You have to tune your guitar more and more;
• The strings catch on the frets;
• External signs appeared - loss of color, shape.

Does it sound like your guitar? - Go to the store for a new set!

How to change strings on an acoustic guitar

Today, there are two types of acoustics on store shelves - for nylon strings and metal ones. The nylon-string guitar is commonly referred to as "classical" - it is usually taught in music schools and played exclusively with fingers, without a pick. Guitar with metal - "dreadnought" or "western". It’s not worth putting nylon on “western” or metal on “classics” - such experiments, at best, will spoil the sound, and at worst, the neck will be bent.

First, let's figure out how to change the strings on an acoustic guitar with metal strings.

1. Loosen the pegs manually or with a special wrench.
2. Take the strings out of the pegs, unwind them.
3. Remove the pins (plugs) that hold the strings in a fixed position from the holder. We recommend using a special tool instead of pliers or pliers. But if neither one nor the other is at hand, use any coin.
4. Take out the strings.
5. Do not be too lazy to wipe hard-to-reach, with strings stretched, places on the hyphae and soundboard.
6. Time for new strings. The optimal string tension order is 1st, 6th. 2nd, 5th, 3rd, 4th. This method gives more space to the hands.
7. Insert the string into the hole on the holder and press down with the stopper until it stops.
8. Insert the other end into the peg and wrap it around.
9. Wind the strings to an approximate working condition. The first three strings are stretched clockwise, the rest - against. Remember to hold on to the plugs, otherwise the string may pop out.
10. Using wire cutters, remove the remaining ends.

The difference in setting the strings on the classic and the dreadnought lies in the different mounting on the holders. In the "classic", as a rule, there are no traffic jams - the strings are attached with a knot.

• Thread the string into the holder.
• Make a loop - bring the end of the string behind the main part.
• Wrap the end around the string and thread it through the loop to make a knot.
• Press the string against the deck.
• Tighten the string tighter by pulling the main body and the end in different directions.

How to change strings on an electric guitar

1. Use a wrench or manually loosen the tension.
2. Pull the strings through the back of the guitar. To make it easier to grab the strings, put the strings through the hole. If you have a typewriter like Floyd Rose, then with a special key you need to loosen the “saddles” for the strings.
3. Don't forget to take care of your guitar - wipe it down with a lint-free cloth.
4. Before installing new strings, place the guitar at a comfortable level on a soft surface so as not to leave scratches.
5. Turn the peg hole to face you.
6. Pass the strings through the holes on the back or place them in the saddles of the Floyd Rose system.
7. Slightly press the string and slowly pull it.
8. Next, insert into the peg and start winding.
9. Trim the rest of the strings.

Consider installing nylon strings using the classic pigtail binding and one hole for each string. Fixing strings on guitar pegs in a separate article

In this article, we will discuss in detail how to tie strings. We will also learn some principles that are important to remember so that the strings do not untie or gradually unravel.

I must say right away that we will consider fastening strings on a stand using two holes for each string in a separate article, as well as fastening with beads in a separate article.

So we consider a simple but insidious knot.

You yourself have tied the usual knot for attaching nylon strings more than once, you can imagine it well and you can see it in the first photo. Everything is simple.

This method is used everywhere. The knot is easily and clearly formed, put the string into the hole, wrap the tail around the base from either side and thread it through the loop. Like a regular node. But there are a couple of points to pay attention to.

Wrong stringing and two golden rules

The first rule of a good setup:

In order for the string to be held securely, you need to bring the tip of the string over the edge of the string-holding panel.

I see the incorrect fastening of the strings on the stand all the time. It doesn't matter what qualifications the guitarist has. Moreover, slipping of the string due to the edge can occur with a slight weakening during tension. Those. the guitarist ties everything correctly, but then, when he turns his attention to tightening the strings on the peg mechanism, loosens the string, the knot unravels a little, and this is enough for the tail to pop out.

We look at the wrong engagement in the photos, which are even posted on photo services.

The photo above clearly shows that the 6th and 4th strings are tied incorrectly when the tails of all the other strings are thrown over the bone edge. Although there is an interesting fact that the tails of the wrong strings are pushed under the adjacent string. More photos.

Anyone who understood everything from the above, in this photo sees the wrong fastening of the 6th, 4th, 3rd and 2nd strings. Not bad at all - only two out of six, four penalty loops! And no knots.

The insidiousness of the situation lies in the fact that such an unfinished knot will hold for some time, and for bass strings with a gimp, perhaps even for quite a long time. But I recommend that you do not tempt fate, because if it pops up it will be ugly and painful.

But that's not all, there is second rule, which is best done when setting the strings:

The first and second strings of the guitar should have a knot that will not allow the string to slip out.

Oh, never slipped! What are you talking about!

Never slipped, because everything is up to the first time. As the string unwinds, it strikes the soundboard with such force that if your guitar has a lacquer coating, and not a lacquer shield, it will break through a decent ditch or make a dent.

Thin and soft strings slip through, and these are expensive carbon kits.

How to set guitar strings correctly

We repeat two rules for those who, instead of reading, run through the article - I'm playing the Aranjuez concerto with an orchestra so that I don't know how to tie the strings! Nevertheless:

• We tie knots on the first and second strings of the guitar.
• When braiding the strings around the stand, we wind the tip of the string over the edge of the string-holding panel ( red line in the photo below). This is what jams the string.

It is better to braid the first, second and fourth strings several times before leading over the edge.

Also a few turns, but a little on the other side.

The option for thick strings differs in that they can be wound immediately over the edge. This is especially true for the sixth string.

The number of threadings or turns can be correlated with the width of the bridge panel. The first thin string allows you to make several turns without any heaps. In this case, the knot will not spontaneously unravel when the tension is released, and the additional knot will itself go around the corner of the stand.

Do not leave string tails too long - they can scratch the soundboard at the same time, these tails are necessary if you do not tie additional knots. While the main knot is tightened, the string can slip and the long tail is pulled up. The tails can be cut off later at the very end, when the strings are already stretched. Of course, do not cut them too short.

The string has no direction, i.e. it does not really matter which end, where you will install it. But on some strings there are sparseness of the gimp for ease of threading. Fasten in such a way that this sparsity does not fall on the saddle of the guitar. There may be trouble with the cantle.

To understand the principle string tension on the guitar, first consider the types of strings. They are metal and synthetic.

Metal - stretch more than synthetic and are used in reinforced guitars (which have a truss rod). Putting them on a classical guitar is a thankless task and can result in damage to an expensive instrument, but they are louder than synthetic ones.

Synthetic - find their application for classical guitars. They are durable and very good for beginners. after playing the guitar, the fingers do not hurt as much as after the steel ones.

The first three strings in them are made of carbon or nylon. The rest are covered with copper or silver-plated winding. Carbon is more durable than nylon, but more expensive.

But as they say, closer to the body)

How to string nylon strings?

To do this, you need to pass the string through the hole of the guitar stand and fix it according to the picture.

After that, you need to push it into the hole of the peg you need, not too deep, so that it does not stick out. It was in the USSR that upright strings were fashionable, but as practice shows, they give nothing but a torn case.

Wind the rest of the string by hand around the peg in a clockwise direction - this is what most guitarists do.

For convenience, I give a photo of the headstock so that you do not get confused on which peg the string under which number is to be pulled

After you have set the strings, you need to tune them with the help of peg mechanisms. I recommend that you first put all the strings, pulling them to the point where they stop rattling. And then adjust each separately. Otherwise, you will have to check the standard more times (for example, with an online tuner or tuning fork).

It is not necessary to tune nylon strings very precisely right away, because. they tend to get very upset for quite a long time. So tune your guitar and let it lie down for a couple of days. At the same time, tune the instrument from time to time.

There is a way to quickly tune nylon strings. It consists in the fact that you pull them one and a half to two tones above the standard system, repeating this procedure after a couple of hours. But strings stretched in this way “live” less.

Another tip for installing new strings, many guitarists practice it. Before as pull on must be pulled out by hand. You need to pull from the nut to the stand.

Stretching the stringson electric guitar

First install them in the tailpiece of an electric guitar or in a stand, depending on the design of the guitar.

On Stratocaster guitars, the tailpiece is located at the back of the body. And, for example, on such models, the design of which is similar to the Gibson SG - it is located on the upper side of the case.

Stretching guitar strings with locking mechanics

(Such mechanics are often referred to as Floyd Rose-type mechanics.)

To string a guitar with floyd, first fix the string on the stand by locking it with a screw mechanism. Next, thread its free end into the hole in the fixing nut.

See below for more information on stringing a locking action guitar.

1. Bite off the ball end with pliers.
2. Secure the string to the bridge using an L-key or some other tool, depending on the guitar model.
3. Loosen the locking mechanism of the saddle and pull the string through the hole in the direction of the pegs.
4. Tune the string to a pitch close to the desired note using the peg. At the same time, turn the tuning screw on the stand to an intermediate position in which the string will not be too tight yet.
5. Tighten the latch located on the top nut.
6. Adjust the sound to the reference with the tuning screw.
7. Carry out the procedures described above for the remaining 5 strings.
8. Another important addition. If you change the strings to thinner ones- do not forget release the springs inside the case. This is done in order to compensate for the reduced tension of the thinner strings.

If you have unscrewed the tuning screw to the stop, release the latch on the saddle, put the tuning screw in an intermediate position, pull the string with a peg and tighten the latch.

How do you string the strings on a guitar with a conventional tuning machine?

1. Fix the string in the stand and stretch it towards the pegs. Without a pull, the string will often not fall into place and this can create extra work for you when it is pulled.
2. Thread it into the peg you need, while leaving slack (for strings with a braid - 5 cm, without it - 10 cm).
3. Bend the string in the direction of rotation of the peg. Most often counterclockwise.
4. Tighten the string with a peg, while holding it in tension with your free hand for a tighter winding of the coils.
5. When it has pulled up a little, insert it into the slot of the nut.
6. Stretch it as in the case of a nylon guitar. While stretching, tune the string again and again until you get it to hold the line.
7. Cut off the remaining piece of string with pliers.