An online store that would like to stop inviting third-party photographers for catalog subject photography will have to independently master the basics of subject photography for websites.
For them, I have compiled a kind of instruction, with the help of which it will be possible for even a person who is not very knowledgeable in photography to make a catalog subject shooting on the website of an online store.
Have you read? Well then let's go!
Step 1.
Refer to your camera manual for instructions on how to adjust the following settings:
shutter speed
Aperture
Light sensitivity (ISO)
white balance
Focus point selection (if provided by design).
Unfortunately, in this matter, camera manufacturers are simply rare ingenuity, offering original solutions on almost every new camera. I shot with 6 different cameras. And there was not a single case that the control was the same on two machines.
In addition, before shooting, you will need to make several desirable settings, which then you can not change (they are not supported by all cameras; therefore, if you do not know how to make these settings, it's okay, especially since they are not critical).
Turn off your camera or lens stabilizer;
Turn on single-frame focus mode;
Make sure the auto focus mode is working;
Turn off the built-in flash;
Turn off dynamic range expansion mode.
Step2.
Set the camera on a tripod.
Step3.
Choose an appropriate lens focal length. It should be in the range of 50-100 mm in 35 mm equivalent. But in principle, it is enough just to set the ZOOM somewhere in the middle position.
Step4.
Turn on all the lights and set the correct white balance if necessary. Most photos actually do a great job with this on auto. Therefore, if you do not have serious complaints about the color reproduction of the camera, you can safely not worry about this topic. If you don’t like something, you still have to adjust the balance. In this case, remember that the adjustment will only be valid in the light in which it was made. Even an elementary movement of the device may lead to the need to re-determine the balance. It is done like this (I describe the principle, but in practice it can be implemented differently on different cameras). Photograph a white background in full frame. And in some way described in the instructions, tell the camera that it is he, this frame, that will be the standard of white.
Step5.
If you are shooting on a stage, ensure that the background is white. The general principle was described in the article Catalog shooting for online stores: how to shoot a subject for websites and catalogs. Now let's talk about how to adjust the exposure.
This word is used to denote a set of settings responsible for the brightness of the image. There are three such settings, and each of them, in addition to brightness, affects some other parameters.
Excerpt
The first of these is exposure.
It is not difficult to regulate it, but there is one point that is confusing. Shutter speed is how long the shutter of the camera opens at the moment of shooting. The longer it is open, the more light hits the sensors and, accordingly, the brighter the picture. The confusion lies here. In most cases, the shutter opening time (and hence shutter speed) is measured in fractions of a second: 1/60, 1/125, etc. This shutter speed is set by photographers in the vast majority of cases. Therefore, not only among photographers in everyday speech, but even among some camera manufacturers, it is customary, when talking about shutter speed, to miss the fact that this is a fraction. They name only one denominator: shutter speed 125, shutter speed 60. But the trouble is that sometimes you still have to leave the shutter open for a few seconds. Therefore, the words "shutter speed 15" can mean both a shutter speed of 1/15 seconds and a shutter speed of 15 seconds. In colloquial speech, there will be no problems - you can always explain in words. But what if 15 is indicated in the camera settings?
In order not to get confused, it is important to know which shutter speed notation system is used on your camera. There may be only two. You can find out which one is used by you by looking at the instructions.
1 option
Shutter speeds shorter than one second are indicated by simple numbers - 30, 60, 125. In order not to confuse them with shutter speeds longer than one second, some kind of conventional sign is placed next to the latter - an asterisk, one or two apostrophes, etc. What exactly - again, you need to look according to instructions.
If you have just such a designation, then when adjusting the exposure, you should be guided by the following rule: to make the photo lighter, you need to increase the numbers with an apostrophe or an asterisk, and vice versa, decrease the numbers without asterisks. Moreover, any exposure with an asterisk is always “lighter” than any exposure without an asterisk.
Option 2
Exposure shorter than one second is indicated by fractions - 1/30, 1/60, 1/125. And the shutter speed is longer than a second - by whole numbers. In this case, in order to make the photo brighter, you need to set the shutter speed with a lower denominator value (that is, the number that is under the fraction sign or to the right of it); if the shutter speed is indicated by a number, then a brighter frame will be obtained at a shutter speed indicated by a large number. A "no shot" exposure is always "lighter" than any shot exposure.
Attention!
In this case, you need to know a couple of nuances.
If you are shooting with flash
If you're shooting with a flash, you can't set the shutter speed faster ("darker") than a certain level. This level is indicated for each camera. It's called "Synchronization Speed". It is very easy to see that you have climbed beyond the threshold - when shooting with flash, you will get a half-black frame. If this happens, do not throw away the camera - everything is in order with it. Just turn the shutter speed towards lightening. Usually the threshold values are 160 (i.e. 1/160) or 200 (1/200). As already mentioned, this value depends on the camera and is set by its manufacturer.
When shooting handheld
Second. I'm assuming you'll be shooting from a tripod. If, nevertheless, not - remember, you can not make the shutter speed longer (that is, change it towards lightening) of a certain level. If you overdo it, you will most likely end up with blurry frames. On many compact cameras, crossing this threshold results in a warning signal appearing on the screen (which one - again, you need to look in the instructions: it will be called "Unsharp Frame Warning" or something similar. Usually information about this option is contained in the instructions section " exposure"). If it lights up (and usually also flashes) on the screen, change the shutter speed in the direction of "darkening" until the warning disappears. If there is no such warning, this limit can be calculated. You can read more about how to do this in the article Sharp photography - how to do it.
Exposure limits
In any case, I would not recommend climbing beyond the zone where excerpts with asterisks or integers instead of fractions begin. If you get to this level and the frame is still dark, try changing the other two settings that control the light.
Diaphragm
With a diaphragm, everything is much simpler. It is indicated by numbers from 1 to 16, 22, 32, etc. - the extreme value depends on the lens or camera. The higher the aperture, the darker the frame, the lower the lighter. And everything would be very good if not for one "but" - this parameter is closely related to several other characteristics that determine the quality of the image. Therefore, without going into details, I will simply recommend that you always keep it in the range from 4 to 11.
ISO
ISO is ISO sensitivity. It is measured in multiples of 10, from 100 (on some cameras from 50 or from 200) and sometimes up to almost limitless values. The logic is also simple - the higher the ISO, the brighter the frame. But even here it was not without a catch. With an increase in ISO, noise quickly begins to grow - something like strong graininess, which at extreme values \u200b\u200bcan practically spoil the photo. Moreover, the high level of noise is one of the main disadvantages of inexpensive cameras. But that shouldn't scare you too much. Photos for the website of the online store are made very small. And when the image size is reduced, the noise disappears. To make a 450x300 frame noisy, you need to try hard. How? And set ISO 25000. Noises are guaranteed. If you want to avoid them, I would not recommend raising ISO above 6400.
How to set up the camera
Now - how to understand in which case what installation to do. Recommendations are:
Step 1
Finally put your camera on a tripod! Put? So that's great. Let's move on.
Step2
If the camera is on a tripod, you can fearlessly shift the shutter speed to the “bright” side. Moreover, if you also shoot with constant light, then there will be no restrictions on the other, “dark”, side. Thus, shutter speed becomes one of the most “free” parameters that you can adjust to suit your needs. What can not be said about the diaphragm. It is desirable to keep it in the range that was indicated above (4-11), and the higher the value it receives within this range, the better. ISO is a different story. On the one hand, the smaller it is, the less noise, but at the same time, it is not so critical to increase it during catalog shooting for an online store. Therefore, if necessary, ISO can be shifted up (until visible noise (graininess) appears on the reduced photo, or a pronounced deterioration in the quality of the photo appears (it becomes not sharp and “loose” - the result of the built-in noise reduction of the camera).
Based on all this, I would advise you to start setting up your camera by setting the aperture.
Step3.
Then I propose a simple and unhurried way to set up the camera by trial and error. Start by setting your camera screen to maximum brightness. In addition, on most cameras you can turn on the photo display mode with highlighting overexposed and underexposed areas - in this mode, if the photo has too bright or too dark areas, they will flash in black or some other color. Then set the aperture value to 8. Then set the shutter speed to 20 (1/20). ISO - let it be 100. Look at the screen (if you do not use a flash) or take a picture and then look at the screen anyway (this is if you do use it). Dark? Light?
But the histogram is not a simple enough tool. Therefore, for those who do not get comfortable with it, I would still suggest learning how to determine the brightness on the screen of your camera. To do this, you need to set its glow to maximum power, take a few pictures that seem bright enough to you, and then display them on the computer screen. If the photos on the computer will look as bright as on the camera screen, the screen can be trusted. If they turn out to be darker, make the exposure brighter and ensure that the photo turns out normal on the computer. Try to remember how such a photograph looks on the camera screen. And later, when setting the exposure, achieve the same effect ....
…So, look at the screen. Let's say that with such an exposure, the photo turned out to be very dark. Change the shutter speed towards the light. Up to 4 (1/4). Still dark? Increase ISO. Until the photo is bright enough. At the same time, make sure that there are no highlights on the subject itself (so that it does not blink with black light when the overexposed zones detection mode is on). As soon as they appear, reduce the brightness in any convenient way by one step - for example, reduce the ISO a little. Lighting the background, on the contrary, is welcome - for catalog shooting on the website of an online store, a white background is just what you should strive for.
Product photography today is in great demand in advertising and printing. Product photography provides the photographer with the opportunity to earn money by posting their images in the libraries of photobanks, which are accessed by various publications and magazines. If you're looking to learn how to take still pictures at home, here's a quick guide and key tips for photographing subjects.
Subject, background and composition for product photography
The choice of the subject of shooting is entirely up to you. You can start practicing product photography by taking pictures of the simplest things that you will find in your home. Try to choose something simple, but at the same time non-standard and interesting. As a rule, a background of neutral gray tones is used as an environment for product photography. Such a background does not give unwanted color reflections in the photographic image.
As a background, you can, for example, use a uniformly colored wall or a large sheet of white or one-color paper. In addition to a neutral color, you can use a contrasting background that could complement the colors of the subject being photographed. For photographing small objects, it may not be worth using a background as such, instead a light-absorbing surface such as black velvet, on which these objects can be placed, is suitable.
A separate issue when you are dealing with shooting subjects is composition. The photographer in this case is not limited in time and means, since the objects remain static, so you can pay more attention to building a composition. A successful composition is understood as a harmonious combination of objects in the photographic image.
Objects can harmonize with each other, firstly, due to the form. It is desirable to see some simple geometric shapes (rectangle, line, circle, etc.) in each subject being filmed, after which you can build a composition in accordance with simple geometry rules. It is also necessary to remember the psychological perception of various forms. For example, a rectangular shape of an object is associated in humans with stability and static, while a circle is associated with a certain instability, dynamics and movement.
Secondly, when building a composition and finding a harmonious combination of the objects being shot, you need to think about the perspective. You must immediately decide what will be in the foreground (and what will be the main focus), and what will serve as a background or minor detail. The focus of a still image may also shift to the background if, for example, the subject in the background is brighter. The background can also be beautifully blurred by playing with the depth of field.
Thirdly, color plays a huge role in building a composition. The original color combination can transform any, even the most mediocre photo. A variety of associations also work here: green - nature, summer, white - purity, lightness, yellow - warmth and positive mood. Different colors in the picture should be in harmony with each other.
Lighting for product photography
As cliche as it sounds, light is one of the key factors in creating a successful still image. When shooting small objects, you can use both pulsed and constant light sources. The whole difference between them will be mainly in the camera settings - in the case of pulsed light sources, there is no need to set long exposures that generate noise in the picture.
It is not necessary to use expensive studio lighting, you can often limit yourself to diffused light from a window or lighting from fluorescent lamps. The main thing is not to combine light sources with different color temperatures, in particular, incandescent lamps with fluorescent ones. Also, do not use too contrasting lighting - it can lead to too dark shadows in the photo image. To soften the shadows, it is advisable to use softboxes and simple reflectors in the form of a sheet of paper.
Try to experiment with lighting schemes and placement of light sources. All light should not fall on the front of the subject, side and back lighting are equally important, as they can add interest, depth and shadows to the picture. If buying a set of studio equipment doesn't fit into your budget, then you can simply choose a room for product photography that is well lit by windows and benefit from it using ordinary curtains and blinds. Natural light from a window is able to fully illuminate the subject, while it can be supplemented with an ordinary lamp or reflector. When using multiple light sources, be sure to avoid double shadows.
Tripod, photography equipment, camera settings
Product photography will require a tripod, regardless of what light sources you use. The tripod must be stable, it must be able to move the camera from a vertical to a horizontal position. If you are shooting with a SLR digital camera, then, of course, a high-quality tripod with a metal “head” is preferable, since a plastic tripod will shake along with the camera when the shutter is released. When shooting, it is necessary to ensure that the camera is strictly horizontal / vertical. In addition to a tripod, the use of a cable release is also recommended. Thanks to this set, you can set a slightly slower shutter speed than usual, and more freely work with the plot.
As for the photographic equipment itself, when shooting small objects, it is better to shoot on a camera equipped with a macro lens. It is ideal for this kind of shooting, providing high definition and detailed images. If you don't have a macro lens at hand, then zoom lenses should be preferred to a lens with a fixed focal length, for example, 90 or 120 mm. Fixes are known to provide higher image sharpness and less risk of chromatic aberration.
The recommended mode for shooting subjects is Aperture Priority (A). We close the aperture to a value close to the minimum, but not to the very minimum in order to avoid loss of sharpness. In principle, the smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field, meaning you have more room to sharpen the subject in the frame without blurring the far edge. ISO sensitivity is set to the minimum possible for a particular camera (50 - 100 ISO).
We select the maximum settings for the quality of images - the maximum resolution, RAW format, or JPEG format with the best quality. It is recommended to determine the white balance manually for a specific light source using a simple sheet of white paper. The focus mode is preferable with one zone, and it is in this zone that the part of the object (with contrasting elements so that the focus is “hooked”) should fall, which in the photographic image, in accordance with your plan, must necessarily turn out sharp. Focusing can be done in LiveView mode. Next, turn on the timer shooting mode (with a shutter delay) and turn off the built-in flash.
Object shooting
So, you have set the appropriate camera settings, correctly composed the frame, corrected the white balance and selected the focus area. You can start shooting. Press the shutter button halfway, the camera focuses, and then press the button all the way. We wait for the shutter to fire, making sure that the lighting of the scene does not change at this moment, and then we control the results on the LCD screen. You need to pay attention first of all to the sharpness and correctness of the selected exposure.
To see how sharp the subject turned out to be, you need to zoom in to the maximum view. In this mode, a focus error or accidental blur, as well as blurring of one of the edges of the subject being shot, will immediately become noticeable on the screen. If such shortcomings are found, you will have to reshoot the frame, since it will be extremely difficult or impossible to get rid of this during post-processing. You can connect the camera to a computer, if possible, and carefully examine the frame for blurring on a large monitor screen.
The correct exposure is best checked using a histogram, which shows how many and what tones (in terms of brightness) a picture contains. It is necessary to strive for such a histogram, in which the curve goes with a small indent from the left edge from the zero value to the right one, slightly short of it and dropping to zero. In the event that the histogram curve starts directly from the left edge not from zero, that is, it is “cut off” by the left edge, this indicates insufficient elaboration of details in the shadows. You should enter a positive exposure compensation and repeat the frame again.
The reverse situation is when the histogram curve is "cut off" by the right edge. In this case, detail in the bright areas of the image will be lost, and you will have to enter negative exposure compensation. If the curve is “cut off” on both sides, then the matter will not be limited to exposure compensation. You will have to change your approach to building lighting and setting camera settings. In general, it is very convenient to track the correct exposure on the histogram. After all, one glance at the curve will be enough for you to determine the quality of the exposure and, if necessary, reshoot the frame.
When you have mastered in practice these basic rules and recommendations regarding subject photography, it will already be possible to move on to creative experiments. You can experiment with angles, apply different light sources and manipulate the settings of your digital camera to achieve more interesting and unusual shots.
There are few photographic practices that predate still life photography. When photography was in its infancy, long exposures were a necessity, so static subjects were the perfect subject. However, with the development of technology, the attractiveness of product photography has not faded, and to this day this direction is one of the most viable professions in the field of photography.
First, it's a very lucrative business, as magazines, catalogs, and websites are in need of product shots. There are many benefits to still life photography that are often underestimated, so I hope you can see the scope for creativity in this and start taking these pictures yourself!
1. Where to start
Contrary to popular belief, you don't need a studio or any special place to work with product photography. You can start by using space at home, such as a table by the window, complete with a simple backdrop and a couple of light bulbs.
This direction is very different from landscape or portrait photography, where you have a subject, like a model or a stunning mountain view, which involves a lot of variables, but the creative content is right there in front of you.
In the case of product photography, there are far fewer variables, and you as a photographer are in complete control of the situation, including the subject, but you need to think extremely creatively in order to capture it in an interesting and attractive way.
2. Selecting an object
The choice of subject for shooting is entirely up to you. Look around the house, maybe you can find something simple but interesting to start with. Please don't feel like you have to shoot fruits or flowers just because everyone else does, think outside the box without being overly ambitious.
If something catches your eye while you're walking around, take it home (don't steal!), or just make a note to yourself to try and photograph it in a still life context. Try to avoid reflective surfaces like glass or metal at first, as they are extremely difficult to work with in terms of lighting. Once you've mastered single-subject shots, try blending it with something, combining objects with contrasting shapes, colors, textures, and see what happens.
3. Lighting
Lighting doesn't have to be expensive, at least I know a set of studio lights is out of my budget, so for product photography I need to use whatever I can get my hands on. Remember that you are in complete control of the shoot, so if you want, find a room where you can block out all the natural light with curtains and blinds so you have full control over the subject's lighting.
Using standard lamps can serve you well if done effectively. Be sure to try to position them in different ways, not all the light should fall on the front of the subject, side and back lighting will add interest, shadows and depth to the picture. Or you can choose a room that is well lit by windows and benefit from it. Natural light from one side will fully illuminate your object, and you can complement it with a lamp or reflector.
4. Tripods and corners
Depending on the lighting conditions, you may or may not need a tripod and cable. I would recommend using them, because. they will allow you to observe and work with the plot. Also thanks to this set, you can choose a slightly slower shutter speed than usual to set a narrow aperture - so your image will be in focus from the foreground to the background, if you want it.
Don't let a static camera stifle your creativity though, having your camera in the same position for the entire shoot is quickly forgotten. Change the angles and height from which you shoot. Otherwise, before you know it, you will have a whole collection of shots taken from the same point with slight variations. Try shooting from the level of the subject or "bird's eye view" looking down at the subject, but if you're moving around, be careful not to let your shadow fall on the subject!
5. Choose the right background
The right background for your subject will play a decisive role in the overall success of your shots. It's best to keep it nice and simple so it doesn't get in the way. A uniformly painted wall or a large piece of white or solid paper is ideal.
Think about how your chosen background contrasts with your subject, whether you want to use a neutral background, or whether you want to use shades that complement your subject's colors. For smaller objects, you may not need a background per se, but instead a surface to place them on, something like black velvet is great for that, as it absorbs light and looks like a solid black surface.
6. Composition of the shot
Composition in your still life is really key to making the work attractive and unique. Consider the rule of thirds as it can be applied to your shoot to create a strong composition. Make sure there are no distractions in the frame, just the subject and the background.
Recompose the scene as you shoot and think outside the box. How does the eye move across the image? Are you using negative space or should you try to fill the frame? Work with the object, what are its defining features? What is it used for? Should you show it in context, or does it work as a standalone object?
7. Spend all day on it
I often notice that my frame of mind during a shoot depends on the purpose of the shoot. So, if I'm just taking photos for fun or for myself (as opposed to working for someone else), I'm less strict about making sure every aspect of the shoot is taken into account as fully as possible.
This is obviously a bad habit that I try to break, and when it comes to product photography, there is no reason to do something wrong. You have all the time you need to get the job done right!
Unlike landscape photography, the light doesn't change quickly, and unlike portrait photography, your subject doesn't get bored by staying still for long periods of time. Take advantage of this, set up your subject, lighting, background, and camera, take a few test shots, move your subjects around a bit, and make your next pass.
If you get to the point where you feel like things aren't going quite right, you can just leave things as they are, make yourself a cup of tea, and come back to shooting later, refreshed.
Another advantage is that everything is at your fingertips for clear and sharp shots. So aside from making excuses for bad shots, it's better to take the time to set up the right lighting.
You'll be lucky to get a macro lens, perfect for this kind of work. If you don't have one, try using your camera's macro mode so you have a better chance of capturing close-up details of your subject.
8. Inspired by the masters
Stuck with the lighting, composition, or structuring of your shots? Then you need inspiration. What could be better than the true masterpieces of yesteryear. Search the internet for Renaissance still life artists and look at the elements of their creations.
Studying these paintings will help you think about form, hue, and color combinations, and will hopefully give you some ideas on how you can style your photographic work to create strong and compelling images.
9. Now it's your turn!
Now it's your time to take a step. Find a free day in your schedule and leave time for practice. Try setting the camera and background to a suitable light source near a window and click!
Once you've mastered the basics, get creative, experiment with angles, lighting directions, and alternative light sources like candles and lamps. You can even get creative with your aperture and use the f/1.8 "fix" to achieve artistic shallow depth of field.
Another important tip: you don't have to use fruits and flowers to shoot still life! So find an interesting and inspiring story that you love and start filming!
10. Earn a living?
Product photography is in high demand, especially now that it is so easy to submit images to photobank libraries that are accessed by magazines, business publications and those who are looking for pictures to form online content.
Once you get your shots, don't be afraid to post them online, you can even try PhotoDune Envato stock. So every time you set up a shoot, work like you're on a mission, because you never know if your still life might fetch you a couple of bucks in passing!
Although these tips are written primarily for product photography, you can use them for some other genres. We'll talk about the actual shooting. I'll show you how to set up your shoot and list some tips I've gathered over the years.
Preparation
I start almost every shoot by turning on the lights. These include a light behind and below my stage so that the surface is illuminated (see photo above).
I have one of my Spiderlite TD6 flashes placed over a table and pointing straight down. This helps lighten the top of the product and remove shadows caused by the backlit table. My second TD6 light is the one that travels around my work surface. This is my main light as it is set up brighter than the others and it controls the main direction of the light.
The settings for my lights will be slightly different from what you need, but this is a good starting point. The top TD6 flash is set to 30% power. The two Flashpoints under the table are set to 50% power. I have two small fluorescent softboxes at my desk at full blast. My main TD6 usually has 66% power (two switches on).
This setting is usually suitable for all my clients who need photos taken for their Amazon, Ebay, Etsy stores or online business directories. You need to understand that lamps are not the same, and if you mix different daylight fluorescents, the colors can be distorted in your shots.
Setting the White Balance
To prevent this problem, buy an Xrite palette. Create a custom profile for your camera using your lights to ensure color accuracy.
Exposure setting
As for my camera, I have one of my custom settings pre-programmed and ready to go, so I just switch to C2 and I'm ready to shoot in a second. My C2 settings are fixed for manual mode at f/16 and 1/6th second, highlight indicator and square cropping on. If I need a little more overexposure on a white table, I increase the shutter speed, or if any overexposed areas appear on the product itself, I can make the exposure faster.
I also find that manual focus is much faster in this situation. It takes time to find the focus point, especially when you shoot 20+ products with 4+ angles. With a quick flick of a button on the back of the camera, I can enter Live View, zoom in, and get the precise focus I'd like. I shoot with an overexposure indicator so that when the image appears on the screen, anything overexposed will appear black.
This way I can determine if I got the proper exposure. The histogram doesn't help much here as it will always be grouped to the right because I'm intentionally overexposing the background. I also set up a square cropping camera as this is usually the only format my clients want for this style of photography.
Making a platform
If you leave them unfolded, you will end up with black bars reflecting on your product. The next thing I did was buy a sheet of clear acrylic from Lowes, a quarter-inch thick, 18×24". It cost me about $20. I place this acrylic on top of the packaged boxes, which raise the shooting surface seven inches.
This allows the table to be overexposed, but due to the falling light, prevents the product from being over-illuminated from below. In addition, I wrapped two more small boxes of different sizes in white paper. I use them quite often as reflectors.
You can place an object
Now that we've set up the lights and set up the camera, and talked about overexposure and surface elevation, let's do the actual shooting. We'll make it easy and start with something simple. Let's take a picture of an ordinary mug.
I placed the mug right in the center of the acrylic. The top light is directly above the mug, pointing down. The other TD6 is at a 90 degree angle, illuminating the mug to the right of the camera.
The resulting image will be 95% ready for publishing to the web almost directly from the camera. There are a few things you might want to add, such as more white reflections or narrowing the dark gap. But, to be honest, it is ready and the way it is. I said that this is not an easy topic, so let's move on to something more complex, shall we?
Let's choose a more complex object
The next thing we're going to try and do is something that a lot of photographers have to deal with; white object on a white background. Since we have an overexposed surface and we control the amount of light that hits the subject, it's actually not hard to get great results.
Let's start with the same lighting. One source directly above the subject and another light at a 90 degree angle to the right of the camera. Right from the camera, we see that we did a good job.
There is no overexposure on the object, but the background is completely white. However, there is not enough volume. So let's move the right light so that it's 45 degrees instead of 90 degrees. Now the light will hit the front panel of this USB hub. Bingo.
Now we have the main edges emphasized, which helps to give the device shape and volume. It's very close, but we can still do a little better. Let's add one of those white wrapped boxes we made earlier to the shaded side and bounce some of our key light back onto the product.
We now have a light shadow fill and it works well for this product. Yes, we might get obsessed with further details and subtleties, but remember that this is a quick shot. We try to quickly change products.
Shooting reflective surfaces
For our last demonstration, let's take a reflective surface. Leaving the light exactly the same as for the previous shot (again, because it's speed), I'll remove the white box that acts as a fill and photograph this RCA adapter.
Again, a shot straight from the camera looks pretty good. You can see the red reflecting on the shaded side at the bottom left that comes from the red bag outside of the frame, and there's a really dark band on the left/center side. Let's clean up those two things and try again. I'll remove the red bag and put the smaller white box pretty close to the adapter.
These two changes greatly affected the picture. Let's try to clean it up a little more. The reason for the black line is that it reflects a much darker room behind the camera. Using the angle of incidence, I'll use my big white box just below my lens and bring the light back onto the subject.
Here it is! Perfectly acceptable shot for an online catalog. The RCA adapter is fully lit, there are no harsh black lines, the background is completely white, and it's already boxed in due to camera settings. This image is ready to go.
Outcome
The reason I built this system is speed. If you are trying to photograph 100 products a day, you can do it with this system. I know because I did it.
Of course, there is a third and final part of the process, and that is editing with your favorite software.
I use Lightroom and it really works for product photography. You need to catalog all your client's images, keep track of part numbers, export them to specifications, and fix shooting errors in a short amount of time.
Subject, macro photography involves the creation of advertising photos of goods or objects for placement in catalogs, on a website or in an advertising campaign. That is why the photo of the product should maximize the best qualities of the product and attract the attention of buyers.
Why is subject photography necessary?
The main purpose of shooting is to create a strong desire in the buyer to buy the product. Therefore, it is quite difficult for beginner photographers to work in this area. Difficulties are caused by the setting of light and the correct setting of camera parameters. Basic requirements for photographs of items:
- Maximum image quality, lack of noise, graininess, glare and exposure disturbances;
Clarity of the object in the image, maximum accuracy in the transfer of form, texture of the material, important details;
Choosing the right angle, for this you can see images of similar products, Almost every item has several variations of setting;
Necessary equipment for capturing glossy objects, water drops, smoke and motion;
If you have to perform this type of shooting to order, then specify the details of the technical specification, whether it is streaming or image shooting, what size images will be required, what shape the images should be and the preferred angle. This will significantly reduce the time for adjusting the finished images and correcting shortcomings and inaccuracies.
So, depending on the subject, there are features of its shooting. There are different requirements for photographs of food than for photographs of shoes. Each type should be considered separately.
Photographing garments
The most common type of subject photography is catalog shooting, when each product is placed on a separate image in different projections to advertise it to potential buyers. Depending on the shooting option, different equipment will be required - shooting on a model, on a mannequin on a plane or on a hanger. For all options, you will need a steamer, iron, scissors, pins, thread with a needle, as well as a tripod and lighting equipment.
- Involving a model for shooting- the most difficult and expensive method, but things will have the right fullness and all the decorative elements will be "in place". Here you will need several sources of constant and pulsed light to create the necessary shadow and illuminated areas, growth soft boxes and reflective umbrellas.
- Using a Product Shooting Manikin will require the entire team time and effort to change the wardrobe. The faces of the mannequins greatly spoil the look of the products in the photo, so use a figure without a head or crop the image to the chin. As with shooting with a model, you need to use several light sources to create volume, a tripod and a solid background that is close to the color of the subject. If you cannot choose several backgrounds to change, then you need to take white or green. In the case of using a mannequin, the clothes will also be voluminous.
On the plane, or from top to bottom, clothes are removed unfolded. To do this, you need a background that is laid on the floor or a table, a tripod that allows you to position the camera above the subject, 2-3 impulses with soft boxes for the most soft and diffused light. It is preferable to choose a camera with a short focal length and a wide-angle lens so that you can shoot large objects. Here an important point is the preparation of clothes for shooting, laying out and designing.
The hanger looks beautiful only if the clothes are prepared for shooting. It needs to be filled and shaped, for which any improvised means are used - bags, tubes, folded things. You definitely need pins and buttons, they can create additional curves and shapes, as well as attach the object to the background.
When preparing objects for shooting, it is worth spending 5-7 minutes ironing out all the kinks and folds. This will help to get high-quality images without complex processing.
Shooting cosmetics
A feature of shooting bubbles and tubes is the choice of angle and the demonstration of their contents. Lipsticks should be rolled out beautifully, creams can flow beautifully over the bubble, and crumbly shadows can be beautifully scattered across the background. It is better to pre-select the angle from those offered on the network, so as not to select your option on the spot.
To shoot with clipping in the catalog, you will need a light box or two pieces of white plastic, 3 light sources and a tripod. We place one light source behind a vertical background, the other two are equipped with reflectors and are located at an angle of 45 degrees on both sides of the subject. We set the ISO to the minimum at the maximum closed aperture, thus obtaining a minimum of noise and graininess.
In this way, you can shoot any medium-sized items - household appliances, shoes, books, and so on. Shiny and moving objects require more sophisticated equipment and skills.
Photography of jewelry
To create high-quality photographs of jewelry, they must be new and unworn to avoid long tedious hours in a photo editor to correct scuffs. For filming you will need the following equipment:
- A tripod is needed for static shooting and avoiding trembling in the hands; in general, product photography is carried out only from a tripod;
Special design of white sheets for the most correct dispersion and reflection of light from pulsed sources, each type of product will need its own version;
- Wide-format or macro lens with a minimum focal length;
Additional artistic elements that can be used during shooting.
Usually, each product requires a personal approach, so you need to see in practice what techniques you should use. Will it be black or white, manual or automatic flash settings, how to position the light sources, and how to use plexiglass bases and holders for each type of jewelry.
Food photography, food photography
This type of filming is used for colorful menu filling in restaurants and cafes, additions to blogs and websites about proper nutrition, as well as for online stores and other food resources.
To get high-quality pictures, a harmoniously selected background and a single light source are enough, usually a window acts as its role.
When shooting, you need to take into account the features of the object - some dishes give you only a few minutes, then they lose their appeal. These are ice cream, hot dishes, many salads, for them you need to prepare a place and set up the camera in advance in order to shoot as quickly as possible.
There is one important point in photographing dishes - placing it on a plate. Do not overload the frame with the amount of food, a small element is better, but effectively shot. And the plate should be perfectly clean, no drips and streaks, crumbs and greasy marks.
To create the effect of freshness when shooting fruits, vegetables and berries, you can use a spray bottle with water and make tiny droplets on the surface of the dish.
Photographing glare (glossy) objects
The main problem when shooting mirrored objects is the reflection of everything that is next to them. To avoid this, a box is created like a cyclorama or light box made of white paper, cardboard or plastic. It is necessary to create the most diffused and reflected light so that direct rays do not fall on the object. The camera lens also needs to be covered with white as much as possible so that it also does not appear on the surface. Light sources are located behind the background, their direction can be changed, achieving the desired volume and shape.
Glass objects are best shot when the light is directly behind them behind the background, then it favorably emphasizes all the edges and does not create glare on the glass. To highlight the side walls of the vessels, you need to place black sheets on the sides, they will create the desired volume. Prepare the object, check it for cleanliness and the absence of spots and dirt, any dust in the picture will be perfectly visible.
photography of drops
This is a specialized type of survey that requires equipment - usually a trigger is used, it delivers drops at a specified frequency and intensity to a precisely specified location. For the liquid itself, you will need saline, cream, dyes or acrylic paints, experiment with density and viscosity to get the desired result. The background can be black or white, in the second option the light is placed under the pallet to emphasize the borders of the umbrella. If the light source (flash) is alone, then it should be placed on the side of the place where the drops fall, but on the contrary, a reflector is needed.
One or more drops of a colored liquid are applied to the pallet exactly in the place where the trigger is directed, you can use a thread and a needle to find out exactly where it fell. Then the fall interval is set, the minimum ISO (100, 200), shutter speed from 1/125, it is better to shoot from a tripod using the control panel, since you will need to press the button and wipe the fallen drops.
Smoke photography
Shooting steam or smoke will require you to have a camera flash with adjustable aperture, focus and shutter speed. It is better to choose a dark background, it looks more spectacular, and you need to shoot from a tripod. From camera settings, fast shutter speeds, closed apertures, very low ISO and manual focus will all give you maximum clarity in intense directional lighting.
The most interesting result is obtained when using scented sticks, which give a thin stream of dense smoke. It can be directed and changed in the process of shooting with various objects, just remember to ventilate the room, as the accumulated smoke creates a gray haze and reduces the quality of the pictures.
Equipment for shooting objects
Each type of subject shooting requires its own devices and improvised means, but there is a certain list of equipment that is used in the work. In addition to the camera itself, you may need:
- Macro or wide angle lens;
Soft boxes, reflectors, honeycombs;
Sources of pulsed and constant light - from 1 to 5 approximately, the power depends on the type of shooting;
Ready-made reflectors or sheets of white cardboard, plastic or foam, black plastic or paper;
- Tripods of different types;
Improvised devices for creating shadows, highlights, compositions.
Light box and backdrop for product photography
An excellent device for shooting small objects without a shadow can be a homemade or purchased light box. It is a box with white walls smoothly turning into a substrate without corners. This creates the effect of infinite space and eliminates the appearance of a shadow from the subject. It can be made from an ordinary box, for this you need to cut out large holes on the back and side walls, close them with paper, attaching it with buttons, and place 3 light sources behind the box. Shooting is carried out with a tripod to achieve maximum clarity.
If you collect all the information on each type of shooting and combine everything into a brief abstract, then you can highlight 10 important tips for a photographer who is starting to master macro and subject photography.
Use a tripod, for some types of shooting the “power” of your equipment is not so important, but you need to fix the camera. For some types of photography, you will need to shoot from above, you will need a “crane”.
Preparing the subject for shooting is a very important process, the final result depends on it. Clothes should be ironed and beautifully laid out, bottles should be arranged, food should be decorated by a stylist, this is the only way to get high-quality shots.
Do not be afraid of training, in order to get the right shot, sometimes you have to shoot the same thing for several hours, and beginners also need to fill their hands.
Before shooting for an order, carefully find out the terms of reference, specify what exactly the customer wants to see at the output and how the images will be used. The whole process depends on it.
use improvised means, show creativity and ingenuity. You don't have to buy specialized gear every time you're going to shoot for a catalog. Maybe you have colored paper, cardboard or a piece of fabric lying around, create backgrounds and reflectors from them.
Feel free to peep from others, tons of different images are posted on the network, find similar ones and feel free to adopt shooting angles, lighting types and add your ideas.
Minimal post-processing, strive to ensure that you have to put in the least amount of effort to edit and correct finished shots. This requires experience and regular training.
The camera and lens must correspond to the level of filming, of course, you can take good shots on a “soap box” if it is an online store in a distant city with 3 customers per month. But if you increase your level, then the technique should correspond to it.
Your photo resume is more important than your face. Create a beautiful picture, be able to sell your work, learn to choose only those photos that position you as a high-level specialist, then the level of orders will constantly grow.
Shoot all the time, everywhere and always, look for your “zest”, your style, read a lot of literature on the topic, try different combinations of your camera settings.
Product photography is a commercial type of photography, they are created to sell goods to customers. This requires professionalism and experience from the photographer, if you have chosen this direction for yourself, then you need to be able to sell your services and your photos. You also need to be able to present products in such a way that the customer wants to buy them, then you will always have a lot of work.
