Technique for transferring photos to the wall. The easiest way to transfer any image to fabric or wood

Very often we face the question - how to transfer a drawing to paper? The question is very important, because all further work depends on the quality of the translated image. You have found a wonderful drawing in a book or magazine, or maybe you have a beautiful embroidery in front of you that you want to repeat - the topic of transferring a drawing to paper is for you!

We are faced with the task of transferring a clear, neat drawing from a sample drawing onto paper, which will then be transferred to another surface: fabric, leather, cardboard, paper, wood or plywood. In some cases, this drawing will itself be the basis for the work, for example, as a coloring book for children.

Let's take a look at several options for transferring a drawing to paper.

OPTION 1.

Let's start with the most interesting and rather old method, which has been used by several generations of craftsmen in their work. He enjoyed special respect among students, during whose time the technique for printing drawings and texts was not yet so accessible. A lot of neat term papers and theses went through GLASSING and were successfully defended.

In order for you to be able to transfer any drawing to paper using glazing, you need a table lamp, two chairs and glass of any size. That's all - you have a reliable manual copying "equipment" under your leadership! Let's look at what to do now and how to transfer a drawing to paper using glazing.

We put on the glass (approximately above the lamp) a sample from which we will reshoot the drawing.

We put a blank sheet of paper on this sample.

Sufficiently bright light of a table lamp allows you to clearly see the pattern through all layers of paper. We take a pencil and circle all the lines of the bottom drawing on the top blank sheet of paper.

In the event that you do not want pencil pressure damage on the bottom sheet, then trace the lines with light pressure. Then, turning off the lamp, take a pencil and trace the lines more clearly.

The work is finished, the patterns are transferred to a new sheet of paper. In this way, you can take pictures not only from a simple sheet, but also from any book and magazine.

Glazing is a great way to transfer a pattern onto paper!

Interestingly, the bright light of the lamp also breaks through the fabric, so you can reshoot the pattern from embroidered products. This is done in the same way as when working with paper.

The napkin lies on the glass above the lamp. A blank sheet of paper is superimposed on top and the entire pattern is circled in pencil. Keep in mind that the embroidery is slightly convex and the top clean sheet of paper will not lie tightly on the napkin.

The drawings translated by the glazing method are distinguished by accuracy. You can start work periodically, giving yourself time to rest, because the drawing lies in place without moving. This method is good for any drawings of any complexity.

OPTION 2.

If the drawing is small in size, then it can be transferred to paper on a regular WINDOW GLASS . Besides, there are moments when there is no opportunity and place to make a structure with glass, chairs and a lamp.

To prevent the bottom sample from moving, secure it to a blank sheet of paper with paper clips. A significant drawback when working - very quickly hands get tired.

OPTION 3.

Usage COPY PAPER for the translation of the picture is widely known. For work you need: a sample drawing, carbon paper, blank paper, a pencil or pen.

All this is stacked in this way - first a blank sheet, then a carbon paper with the ink side down, a sample of the drawing is placed on top. Staples are needed so that nothing moves during work.

With a pencil with pressure, all the lines of the drawing are circled, which remain on the bottom sheet of paper.

After finishing the work, we remove the carbon paper - the drawing is completely printed on a sheet of paper.

There are several disadvantages of translating a drawing through a carbon paper - the sample quickly wears out due to the frequent outline with a pencil, the work is sloppy, this method is suitable for relatively small drawings.

OPTION 4.

In some cases, you can transfer the drawing directly to a thin cigarette paper or more dense tracing paper.

This translucent paper is superimposed on a reference drawing, the outlines of which are outlined with a pencil or pen.

That's all. A lot has been written, but each of these options for transferring a drawing to paper needs to be known. The work of needlewomen is quite diverse - you don’t know when what knowledge will come in handy.

Let's sum up our manual" ways of translating a picture. So this is:

• glazing over a table lamp,
• window glazing,
• using copy paper
• using tracing paper or tissue paper.

But! .. Modernity makes its own adjustments to the work of craftsmen. Desired drawing if desired, you can already find it on the Internet. And the pattern you likescanned and printed electronically.As a result, you will have a ready-to-work drawing on paper in your hands.Due to the fact that there is no manual drawing, time is significantly saved and after printing, you can proceed directly to work.

If you have a photocopier nearby, then a sample drawing can be shot on it, if necessary, increasing or decreasing it in size. The person servicing this device knows its additional functions. You just say how many percent you would like to change the image.

So, the modern way of translating a picture is as follows:

• scan images from books and magazines and print,
• find the finished picture in electronic form and print,
• use photocopier to copy, printing and resizing the picture.

Copying, printing a picture of any format and color is made on modern technology in a matter of minutes. The print quality is wonderful.

But think about it, if many masters still transfer drawings onto paper with a simple pencil, then this manual method is not so bad ... Time-tested!

Thank you and see you on the pages!

See related questions

Transferring a drawing from tracing paper ...

... for beginners and not understanding.

How to transfer a drawing from tracing paper to a matryoshka blank or to a hemispherical surface of the lid of the box, I will tell you another time. Now, to understand the process, I will show the simplest technique for manually transferring a drawing from tracing paper to cardboard.

The idea is simple. The transparency of the tracing paper allows you to copy the drawing from one piece of paper to another with sufficient accuracy, while maintaining the original size.

Why do you need to transfer the drawing at all, if you can paint the original sketch with paints?

Transferring a drawing from a sketch (picture) to the wall

Then, that, firstly, in this case, you save watercolor paper from endless scratching with a pencil and abrasion with an eraser, while you can erase a sketch even to holes. Secondly, fragments can also be copied if some sections in the sketch seem redundant or redundant. Thirdly, if there is a need for re-layout, then the moment of transferring the sketch from tracing paper to paper is the most convenient.

Necessary tools - tracing paper and two pencils. One pencil is hard and sharp (2H-4H), the other is as soft as possible (4M-6M) and it is not necessary to sharpen it. Instead of a soft pencil, you can use charcoal, but the charcoal will bring a lot of dirt to the drawing. The eraser in this case is not desirable.

So, the simplest drawing with the correct transfer technology. We will transfer a photograph from a magazine onto cardboard.

1. We place the image on a flat surface and fix it, for example, with adhesive tape.

2. We put tracing paper on top of the image and also fix it.

3. We circle the main contours of the image, as well as all the details that are significant to us.

4. Tear off the tracing paper.

5. Turn the tracing paper over with the back (so far clean) side up.

6. We rub the reverse side of the tracing paper with a visible pattern with a soft pencil. The photo shows a graphite rod, not coal.

7. We attach the cardboard.

8. We attach the tracing paper to the cardboard with the pattern up and the grated graphite side down.

9. Outline the outlines of the drawing with a pen or pencil.

10. We remove the tracing paper, we see the contours of the transferred image and a lot of dirt left from the graphite.

Advice: to reduce dirt from graphite, do not rub all the free space on the back of the tracing paper. You can rub only those areas where there are lines of the picture.

Professional and most accurate approach: carefully outline the outline of the drawing with the softest pencil. Only contour without chafing.

Unprofessional approach- use a copier. Why unprofessional? Because traces of carbon paper are practically not erased with an eraser.

Tag: art

Mounting the projector and connecting to a computer

We will help you find an installer in your city. Your engineer can also install the projector.

The projector is connected to a computer or laptop in the same way as any monitor. VGA and HDMI cables are used for image transmission.

If it is impossible to lay cables, you can resort to using special WiFi adapters for projectors that can stream video of the desired quality.

Projection dimensions and projector position

The maximum projection size depends on the projector's light output (measured in lumens, denoted by ANSI lm), ambient light, and the projection surface.

subdued external lighting:

• Projector 3000 lumens: 4x3 m
• Projector 4000 lumens: 4.6 x 3.5 m
• Projector 5000 lumens: 5.2 x 3.9 m
• Projector 6000 lumens: 5.7 x 4.3 m
• Projector 8000 lumens: 6.5 x 4.9 m
• Projector 10,000 lumens: 7.3 x 5.5 m
• Projector 15000 lumens: 8.9 x 6.7 m

Maximum projection dimensions in conditions without external lighting:

• Projector 3000 lumens: 8x6 m
• Projector 4000 lumens: 9.2 x 7 m
• Projector 5000 lumens: 10.4 x 7.8 m
• Projector 6000 lumens: 11.4 x 8.6 m
• Projector 8000 lumens: 13x9.8 m
• Projector 10,000 lumens: 14.6 x 11 m
• Projector 15000 lumens: 17.8 x 13.4 m

Maximum projection dimensions in conditions daytime outdoor lighting:

• Projector 3000 lumens: 2x1.5 m
• Projector 4000 lumens: 2.3 x 1.7 m
• Projector 5000 lumens: 2.6x2 m
• Projector 6000 lumens: 2.8 x 2.1 m
• Projector 8000 lumens: 3.2 x 2.4 m
• Projector 10,000 lumens: 3.6 x 2.7 m
• Projector 15000 lumens: 4.4 x 3.3 m

Location

Projectors are usually located under the ceiling on a ceiling mount, bracket. Can be wall or column mounted. At events, you can place the projector on a table, cabinet, tripod or stand. The distance from the wall to the projector (with an image width of 4 meters) can be from 1.5 to 9 meters, depending on the model of the projector.

Lighting and projection surface

Ambient lighting affects projection contrast. The less extraneous light, the brighter and more contrast the image. During the day it is recommended to close the windows with curtains, in the evening - dim the light. Then the projection will be seen well on a sufficiently large area. If the ambient light is bright, reduce the projection area or select a projector with a suitable light output.

Surface

Projecting a pattern

It can be a painted wall, wallpaper, tile, canvas and other types of surfaces.

If the surface is bright, dark, or reflective, you can:

• use a more powerful projector,
• reduce the projection area,
• create a modular projection by hanging photo frames on this surface.

How to choose a projector

When choosing projectors for projection design, you should pay attention to several parameters:

• projection ratio or throw ratio;
• light flow;
• projector lamp life.

Throw ratio

This is the ratio of the distance from the projector to the image to the width of the image. Not to be confused with contrast, where the ratio can be 3000:1.

Conventional projectors with a throw ratio of 1.3:1 to 2.1:1 need to be placed at a distance of 5.5-9 meters to create an image 4 meters wide. Not always the room allows you to place the projector so far away.

A short throw projector with a ratio of 0.5:1-0.75:1 gives such an image from a distance of 2-3 meters. The closer the projector is to the image, the less likely it is that shadows will be created by passing people or other objects.

Ultra short throw projectors have a throw ratio of about 0.35:1. They are located closest: for a width of 4 m - at a distance of 1.5 m.

Luminous power (ANSI lm)

For projection design with sufficient dimming (in the evening with subdued light or during the day with curtained windows), it is enough to have a luminous flux of 250-300 lumens per square meter. A projector with a light output of 3000 lumens can cover an area of ​​​​10-12 square meters well. m.

In a room without extraneous light, you can project 50 lumens per square meter. Those. the same projector can cover 50-60 sq. m.

The greater the luminous flux of the projector and the smaller the projection area on the wall, the greater the brightness of the image.

projector lamp

The brightness of the lamp gradually begins to decrease over time and by the end of its service life drops to 60-50% of the original. Then the lamp is replaced with a new one. To prolong the lamp life, you can use the projector in Eco mode - the lamp life will be 1.5 times longer.

In general, 3000 lumens projectors have a lamp life of 3000-6000 hours, which is enough for 1-2 years with 8 hours of daily use.

Some LED or Laser-LED projectors have a lamp life of 10,000 to 20,000 hours.

Outputting the Image to Multiple Projectors

There are three options for working with multiple projectors:

duplication

Video splitters are used to duplicate the image to multiple projectors.

Independent images

Multiple projectors are connected to one computer. Each displays an independent program image, as if multiple computers were being used. You can project different images with different area and content settings.

Single panoramic projection

Multiple projectors are connected to one computer. Using a special video card, a single desktop with a panoramic resolution, for example, 3072x768, is created. The POGUMAX Designer program will run on this wide screen consisting of several projectors.

The cost of the POGUMAX Designer program depends on the number of projectors used, regardless of the playback mode and the number of computers used.

How to transfer a picture to the wall?

Forum: "Components";

Current archive: 2006.10.01;

How to redraw an image?

Svyatoslav © (2006-02-15 14:30)

I am writing my own component, a descendant of TpaintBox, drawing on the canvas, everything is fine, only the image is not updated if the form is collapsed/expanded!
How to deal with it?

MBo © (2006-02-15 16:56)

may have messed up with the overriding Paint method. Give the class declaration and implementation of this method

MBo © (2006-02-15 16:59)

Sorry, I didn't pay attention right away that a descendant of PaintBox. PaintBox does not redraw itself, does not save the picture, you need to draw in the OnPaint handler

Svyatoslav © (2006-02-15 18:19)

> you need to draw in the OnPaint handler

Tried, bolt! Everything is much worse, in OnPaint you can only draw, the old drawing does not save if it was drawn in OnPaint, but if the drawing is the result of the work of the program? It is necessary to draw either on two canvases or save the BitMap when the focus leaves the drawing
Maybe it is worth changing the ancestor?

MBo © (2006-02-15 19:03)

>in OnPaint you can only draw
This is what PaintBox is intended for - a lightweight component without saving the picture, just a place allocated for drawing.
TImage saves the image

zep (2006-02-16 00:11)

try to take the ancestor custom panel and in Ppotected redefine the procedure Paint like this
procedure Pain; override;
and then in the program draw in it what you want
procedure My_comp.Paint;
begin
end;

if it blinks strongly, first draw on the canvas of the TBitmap and at the end copy the components to the canvas

Svyatoslav © (2006-02-16 16:53)

Thanks everyone, it worked :)
But now there is a new bug, if TImage is an ancestor then resizing of the image does not take effect!!! In the design, I stretched it as I needed, but in the wound, the value of the height and width properties remained the starting ones !!!

MBo © (2006-02-16 16:57)

Resize Picture.Bitmap

zep (2006-02-20 21:02)

news with image change
Image1.w:=88;
Image1.h:=77;
assign and
Image1.Picture.Bitmap.w:=88;
Image1.Picture.Bitmap.h:=77;
but you chose Image in vain, it blinks like an infection and there is nothing you can do with it
I had to at least follow from PaintBox and draw in the OnPaint event on a virtual bitmap and then throw Draw on the canvas.

Forum: "Components";
Search throughout the site: www.delphimaster.net;
Current archive: 2006.10.01;

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the main / Decorating rooms during renovation / Information necessary for painting / Ways to increase and decrease drawings and transfer them to the plane of ceilings and walls

Ways to increase and decrease drawings and transfer them to the plane of ceilings and walls

The painter-alfreischik has to work not only on ready-made stencils, but also draw up stencil drawings himself, selecting them from albums, books and handicraft samples that are available in every local history museum. Often selected drawings have to be enlarged or reduced. How to do this should be known to every painter.

The drawing is transferred from the original onto paper or stencil cardboard through carbon paper or, better, using tracing paper. This method saves the book and makes it possible to clean up the translated drawing, which is difficult to do when using carbon paper.

It is good to copy ornaments with a lamp and glass placed on two supports. The lamp is placed below, under the glass, the drawing is placed on the glass, and paper is superimposed on top of it, on which the lines of the ornament are applied with a pencil.

Increasing the pattern of the ornament by cells

The smallest drawing can be enlarged to any size by cells. Do it in the following way. The drawing is easily lined with a pencil into identical cells so that a kind of grid is obtained on it. Then, on a sheet of paper equal in size to the enlarged drawing, cells are also marked and lined, in the same quantity as in the figure, but on a larger scale. For convenience, cells are numbered. A copy of the lines of the drawing is transferred to large cells.

It must be remembered that the smaller the cells in the figure were marked, the more correct the increase will be.

Enlargement and reduction of drawings can be done using a camera and a special device - a pantograph.

Installation for enlarging the pattern of the ornament

From the apparatus "Photokor" or its lens, an installation is made for magnification, as shown in the figure. The pattern of the ornament is placed on the floor and covered with glass on top. A magnifying unit made of tin is placed on the glass, with the lens up.

The electric lamps L-1 and L-2, located in the installation, are turned on, and the light projection of the ornament pattern is aimed at a large mirror glass located above the lens. Having received a sharp image, an ornament is drawn on the tracing paper, i.e.

Types of image transfer to the wall

The resulting image is transferred to paper placed on glass. The magnification depends on how far the mirror glass is from the camera lens.

Using a magic lantern, or an epidiascope, you can also enlarge the drawing. The image of the drawing is transferred to the plane of paper or to the wall. With this method of enlargement, the painter-alfreischik must have drawing skills.

With a pantograph, drawings are enlarged and reduced easily, quickly, purely mechanically and quite accurately. This device is of ancient origin, but for some reason it is not very common and is not commercially available. You can make your own pantograph.

To do this, you need to have four wooden rulers of the same length, width and thickness and evenly planed, preferably narrow and thin. At the same distance from the ends of each ruler, holes are drilled or punched with a hot nail to fasten the rulers together. On three rulers, holes are made at certain distances.

Pantograph

Let's say that we need to increase the figure by 2 times. Let's assemble the pantograph as shown in the figure, i.e. we will fix sockets G and O in the holes with the sign 2. Having strengthened the pattern under socket A with buttons, we put a sheet of clean paper under socket K.

If you hold needle A with your right hand and trace the outlines of the drawing with it one by one, then the pencil K, installed in the socket, will draw exactly the same drawing on paper, but doubled. If the original is very large and does not fit into the device, then it is drawn in parts, which are then glued together.

If it is required to reduce the pattern, then the pencil is moved to slot A, and the needle to slot K, and the original of the pattern to be reduced is placed under it.

"Refurbishment of rooms during renovation",
N.P.Krasnov

Drawing ceilings and walls

The basis for applying the painting is the completely finished painting of the surfaces of walls, ceilings and other structures; the painting is done on high-quality glue and oil paints, made for trimming or fluting. Starting to develop a sketch of the finish, the master must clearly imagine the whole composition in a domestic environment and clearly realize the creative idea. Only if this basic condition is observed can one correctly ...

Measurement of work performed

The measurement of the work performed, except in special cases, is made according to the area of ​​the actually processed surface, taking into account its topography and minus the untreated areas. To determine the really processed surfaces during painting work, you should use the conversion factors given in the tables. A. Wooden window devices (measured by the area of ​​​​openings along the outer contour of the boxes) Device name Coefficient for ...

Geometric constructions

We have already said that in order to perform certain types of painting work, you must be able to draw. And the ability to draw, in turn, requires knowledge of the rules for constructing geometric shapes. Sketches on paper are drawn with the help of triangles, T-series, transport pa and a compass, and on the plane of walls and ceilings constructions are carried out with the help of weights, rulers, wooden compasses and a cord. At the same time, you need…

Right angle

A right angle, that is, equal to 90 °, is formed by two mutually perpendicular lines. The perpendicular is constructed as follows. Lower the perpendicular. From a given point C (lying outside the straight line), as from a center, we describe an arc with an arbitrary radius so that it intersects a given line at two points D and E from these points, as from centers, we describe arcs with the same radii so that they ...

Constructing an angle equal to a given one and parallel lines

Construction of an angle equal to a given angle An angle equal to a given one is constructed as follows. From the vertex A of a given angle with an arbitrary radius, we draw an arc with the same radius from a point D on a given straight line, we describe the arc EF; we postpone the value of the arc BC along the arc EF to the point F and draw DE. The angle EDF is the required one. Constructing an angle equal to a given Parallel lines Lines,…

With you Svetlana Buzanova

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The fourth lesson is for those who start learning to draw from scratch. Today we will find out what other bonuses we can get from drawings on tracing paper. And consider two ways to transfer a drawing from tracing paper to paper.

For work, we need simple pencils, hard and soft, colored pencil, tracing paper.

You can also subscribe to the full version of the lessons "How to learn to draw. First steps". In it, I draw more and give additional materials for practice.

Draw with pleasure;)

step-by-step drawing lessons with a simple pencil

Copies of famous artists on tracing paper are a useful practice for the artist.

We make tone patterns with a stain. And at the same time we are studying how to convey the shape and volume of objects, the space inside the picture using transitions from dark to light. We train our eyes to see shades of dark and light tones. Practice how to draw with a simple pencil.

Copying drawings made with lines on tracing paper helps to make the hand confident and accurate. And the lines in the drawings are smooth, lively, artistic.

Watch the video Why do we need drawings on tracing paper

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Copies of line drawings are a versatile tool for the artist.

Before drawing a finished picture, artists come up with a plot. They collect material, draw individual elements, change their position, shape. Looking for a beautiful and expressive composition. This work is very convenient to do with the help of tracing paper.

Of course, you can just draw on tracing paper. The translucent properties help to make very interesting graphical effects. I will definitely talk about this next time.

And today we’ll talk about how to transfer the prepared drawing from tracing paper to paper.

There are several ways and we choose the right one depending on the basis for the drawing. The first way to transfer a picture to thin paper.

Artists and illustrators who have to do a lot of sketches, graphics and watercolor sketches buy special light screens.

The surface of special paper for working with watercolors or dry materials (sanguine, pastel) is very delicate. Therefore, a contour blank for a watercolor or pastel drawing is also often made on a draft, and then the invented drawing is transferred with the help of tracing paper. onto special paper or canvas.

I will share one more bonus. Tracing paper will help get rid of fear.

Have you started a drawing and are afraid to ruin it? Or do you want to try a new technique and are not sure of the result? Transfer to the tracing paper all the contours of the future drawing. If something went wrong, you can easily restore it on a new sheet. This will not take much time, but it will help to get more pleasure from drawing.

Previous articles on the topic THE FIRST STEPS OF A BEGINNER ARTIST

How to learn to draw. First steps

Tone pattern on tracing paper

Drawing on tracing paper with lines

If you are interested in the full version of the lessons, which adds more practice and works specially selected by me for copying, fill out the form below and click on the "I want to try" button

easy and beautiful pencil drawings

Our blog already has one article about marking the picture on the wall. But in this section, we decided to talk more about this topic.

There are many ways to transfer pictures to the wall. Each of the methods is good in its own way and it is up to you to decide which one you will use. In the course of vast practice, We had to apply various methods, and sometimes even combine some of them. Knowledge and the ability to choose always make it easier to solve various problems on objects. And in this topic we will consider several options for applying an image to the wall.

The first and easiest way to transfer the image to the wall is the markup for the projector. It can be done in two ways: Marking with pencils and paints.

1) We take simple pencils and transfer every detail as accurately as possible, but remember that all this will need to be accurately drawn. Therefore, figure out in advance what exactly you are drawing, and do not mechanically redraw. At the next stage, you will need to figure out what each line means without a projector. It can be a light shadow or clear edges. Cover the light from the projector with your hand to see if you have marked everything. Sometimes it is necessary to pick up a sketch and mark it up by referring to the sketch, as the projector can turn some parts of the sketch into "mess".

2) The second way is marking with paints through the projector. This type of markup is not always used, but only in those cases where the image can be clearly divided into several colors, for example: if you draw a seascape in which there are palm trees, then the pencil markup will mislead you when you try to separate the gap from the leaves. In this example, we separate the foliage from the background in this way. Further, it is much easier for us to find what we need. Marking with paints allows us to immediately make this separation clear (gaps from the leaves), but keep in mind that marking with paints is much longer and this is just a markup, this markup will also require detailed drawing in the future.
For example: for a palm tree, it is best to mix three green colors at once, with these colors it is necessary to separate dark and light areas. We need clear three colors that are easy to separate from each other, because when projecting a projector on a wall, it is very difficult to see the difference in them, and then with good lighting, you can easily find each leaf and bring it to perfection.

Markup in other ways: we rarely resort to them, but there are objects where it is necessary.
1) Grid layout
The original drawing is drawn into cells. The size of the cells is determined depending on the size of the picture and on the saturation of its details. Then the wall is drawn into the same number of cells, observing the proportions of the wall and the sketch. Next, the lines from each cell of the eye sketch are transferred to the corresponding cell on the wall. And so on until the entire image is transferred to the wall.

2) Stencil marking. There are several types of stencil technique.

Reference stencil;

Medical stencil.

The template can be used several times. Its role is to quickly draw simple elements using an airbrush or balloons. You can read more in the article “What stencils for wall painting and movable patterns do we use in the Aron Honore studio?”

Reference stencil - serves once and for the complete transfer of the pattern. Its main task is to help in building, maintaining proportions, the location of the "light" and "shadow". It can be cut from almost any material. The main thing is that in the process it is convenient for you to paint through it.

Local stencil - used for only one artistic detail. Such elements are best cut out of self-adhesive film or thin paper, which should simply be fixed to the surface with masking tape. Often we use masking tape and film to cover any elements, carefully cutting the tape on the wall along the contour of the already outlined pattern.

An example of using our studio for some types of screen painting.

Sometimes it is necessary to repeat the same pattern a number of times. To do this, we make similar stencils. An example in our work "Creation of Adam" on the contours we use a similar stencil.

Or, for example, we stick adhesive tape on the already applied drawing with a pencil and cut out the contours. Thereby separating what is needed and closing what does not need to be painted over. But that's a slightly different story!)

With a minimum amount of material and time spent, you can make a memorable gift or decoration in retro style for your interior with your own hands. The tree will give the shot a special inner glow, and you will also get beautiful matte shades on the transferred frame. This is a step-by-step illustrated master class on creating real works of art with your own hands.

You learn:
- Choose color images to transfer to the tree;
- Work with a gel medium (gel medium transfer - transfer gel, gel for transferring images; freely sold in Runet);
- Transfer any image to the surface;
- Competently complete the work of transferring the image to the surface.

1. Choose the right source materials.

The wooden base can be of any shape, but its surface must be perfectly smooth so that the image lies evenly and without breaks in every sense. It is also preferable to use a light wood, because it is it that gives the very “inner glow”. A light base is especially important for portraits so that the skin tone does not change for the worse.

As for the photograph, it must be a printout on a laser printer and from the very beginning of a size equal to the size of the wooden base for transfer. Therefore, after printing, it is good to cut off excess white paper from the frame, so that it would be more convenient to work with it later. The picture should be high-contrast as a standard (you can process the image in a graphics editor on a PC, if this is not the case). But a great retro effect is given on the tree and the pictures are almost out of focus and with very soft shades of colors. See below for examples of suitable shots - from bottom to top and from right to left: contrast shot, but out of focus; the picture is out of focus and with soft shades; contrast shot in perfect focus. The tree will enhance the color rendition in any case.

Any transfer medium can be used, but the best image is obtained by a gel with a matte effect (marked "matt" on the package) and the most dense / thick consistency (marked "heavy" on the package).

Also to you come in handy:
- an unnecessary plastic roller,
- (or) a wide wooden stick (bought at a pharmacy),
- a pair of medium-sized flat brushes for applying the composition (glue brushes),
- non-rigid sponge or sponge for dishes (new),
- water in a small bowl or low glass,
- paper towels/napkins/handkerchiefs/toilet paper or thin kitchen towels,
- a small amount of oil (any liquid from the kitchen).

2. Right before you start, wipe your wood base several times with a clean, dry towel to remove any crumbs and dust.

3. Apply the transfer gel on the surface of the wood in a good layer: definitely not thin (much wood should not be visible through the gel), but not very thick (the gel layer should also not look like an impenetrable icing on the cake). Just squeeze out of the tube or put the gel with a spoon from the container onto a tree, and then distribute it in a more or less even layer with a brush (or a wooden stick, or a plastic card - whichever is more convenient for you). Do not forget to make sure that the layer on the edges of the wooden base is not thinner than in the middle.

4. While the gel is still damp, place the print side down on the gel. The image can be cropped to a size slightly smaller (or much smaller) than the wooden base, then you end up with a thin or wide wooden frame around the image. Gently with your fingers (in order not to move the picture even a millimeter, hold it with one hand, gently smooth it in all directions with the other), smooth the superimposed photo, slightly pressing it to the surface and removing the air between the photo and the gel on the tree. It is important in no case to press so hard that the gel begins to squeeze out on the sides!

5. Smoothed out with your fingers, take a plastic card (it is more convenient than a stick, because the face of the first gives more uniform pressure) and, again holding the picture with one hand, continue to smooth the white surface of the photo with the other face of the card.

6. After that, set your workpiece aside until the gel is COMPLETELY dry overnight. Resist the temptation to pick up the photo and see what happens: you will ruin your work for sure. If you work in the summer, you can also put the workpiece in the sun for a couple of hours (but not on the battery !!) and then check the degree of drying, and this may (!) be enough.

7. After the gel is COMPLETELY dry, take a sponge, moisten its edge a little in water (do not saturate it with water, just moisten it) and start applying water directly to the back white surface of the photo on the tree. Do this carefully in several passes (wetting the sponge several times), first blotting the picture with a sponge, and then, when there is already a lot of water on the paper, continuing to move in neat circular motions. That is why - so that the material does not immediately begin to be erased by pellets from water - it is necessary to print the picture initially on special paper for photographs, and not on ordinary office paper. Make sure to use the soft part of the sponge and not the hard part of the sponge. In the process, when squeezing the sponge, a whitish liquid will flow into the glass, and this is normal. The paper should be completely wet everywhere from the center to the edges without gaps.

8. Further, still continuing to moisten the sponge from time to time, begin to wipe the wet paper from the image with pellets. Make sure you work not only in one central zone, but equally on the edges so that the paper does not rub off in one place, because you may start to delete your transferred image. Do not be especially afraid of this, rub with light pressure, and the paper will come off quickly, the main thing is not to rub one place with effort, as if you are rubbing a stain; in particular, do not rub where the paper is no longer there.

The paper should thus come off completely. If there are areas that don't want to rub off, use your own dampened fingers as they are smoother and feel better for pressure and progress.

Run the sponge over the picture without pressing to remove all the pellets down to the small ones, and then without pressing with wet fingers on the same surface to make sure by texture that there is no more paper left, even a thin layer.

Wipe the image with a clean, thin towel to remove paper dust and moisture.

At the end of this stage, moisten your fingers again and walk several times again, but almost completely without pressure, over the image, because the paper hairs probably still remain: while the paper is wet, it is not visible, but when it dries, it will become very noticeable if left on the image.

9. Dry the picture on the tree again with a thin towel. Set aside the tree with the image until completely dry from moisture.

10. As you can see in the picture below, even if you rub very carefully, after drying, some paper fibers still "appear" in the image. You can use the water again and then dry the picture again. But here's another, more efficient completion technique.

With one finger, pick up literally a couple of drops of oil and gently apply it to the picture in a circular motion. And as you work, you will see how these villi simply disappear. You have achieved the result you need - take a thin towel (paper or fabric) and start wiping the oil from the picture with the tip.

11. If during work, nevertheless, a small amount of gel has gone beyond the edges of the image on a wooden base, just gently pick up the frozen lumps of gel with your fingers.

12. By and large, the work is finished. But now you can decorate the frame, for example, using a special ornamental adhesive tape with a pattern - washi-tape (freely sold in Runet). Here the frame is presented as an abstraction, repeating and shading the colors of the image. It is also convenient to glue the side edges of the wooden base with it. You can also use acrylic paint instead of ribbons. It is also worth painting the back of the tree with one color.