The life of Russian women in Jordan. My fabulous Jordan

Impressions of Jordan As well as advice to those who wish to visit this country.

More than a year has passed since I visited Jordan (since November 2005), but I still remember this country with admiration and respect.
Jordan was chosen to travel for several reasons:
1) There is something to see: the city of Petra, which can be confidently called the Wonder of the World, the Wadi Rum desert, the place of baptism of Jesus Christ, Roman cities and other attractions.
2) A bright contrast in everything compared to Russia (religion, customs, people).
3) Red Sea.
4) Dead Sea.
5) A rather exotic country where few people have been.
6) Safe country.

The individual tour consisted of three stops: the Dead Sea Spa**** hotel on the Dead Sea (3 days), then the Silk Way Hotel*** in Petra (2 days), and the Aquamarina2 Hotel*** in Aqaba, on the Red Sea coast (10 days). Living conditions in the hotel *** are normal, in the hotel **** are good. I had nothing to complain about.
The cost of the voucher (38 thousand rubles) included the Moscow-Amman-Moscow flight, accommodation and breakfasts in hotels, transfer (car with driver) from hotel to hotel, as well as excursions planned in an individual tour (all described in this story, except for the Wadi Rum desert). Tickets for excursions were purchased independently. The prices are low (1-5 dinars, 1 dinar is about 30 rubles). Only Petra and the Wadi Rum desert are expensive, but it's worth it.

1. Country. People.
Jordan is considered a safe country, with a low crime rate, in contrast to its "violent neighbors", with whom it manages to maintain friendly relations. Let me remind you: Jordan borders on Israel, Iraq, Syria, Saudi Arabia.
Egypt is nearby, its cities (like Israel) are clearly visible on the other side of the Red Sea. However, the lawlessness (theft, begging, harassment, etc.) that vacationers in modern Egypt talk about is completely inapplicable to Jordan. But everything is in order.
Perhaps the main thing that determines the face of the country and the mentality of the inhabitants is religion. In Jordan - Islam, and that says it all. Tourists, coming to this country, should understand that any behavior that goes beyond the limits of local decency, even on their part, will be strictly condemned. It is not advisable for a woman to appear alone, walk the streets of the city in short skirts, with open arms. Otherwise, you can pass for a prostitute. By the way, the girls of easy virtue met by chance once, on the beach of the Aquamarine hotels, Russians and Ukrainians. They looked cheerful.
It is better for men not to drink alcohol on the street, in front of everyone, this can offend the locals. And, what is very important, try to ensure that the time of your trip does not coincide with the Muslim fast, during which it is forbidden to eat, drink and have fun during daylight hours.
The Jordanians seemed to me modest and intelligent people. Of course, a woman without a covered head cannot cause indifference, but no one grabbed my hands. On the contrary, they were afraid to accidentally touch. For example, when they helped to get into the car, and under other circumstances.
Once I had to ride in a local bus, which picked me up on the highway, when returning from the desert to Aqaba. All the way the passengers rode in silence, no one even began to whisper. After a while, the Arab girl sitting by the window next to me, all wrapped in black, half stood up and politely asked in good English if I would get off at the next stop. I was very surprised.
In one of the shops I met a Russian who married a Jordanian, we chatted a little. She lives in prosperity, is satisfied with life. She said, in particular, that the level of education of women is growing in Jordan, now one of the advantages of the bride is that she has a higher education (at least in the future).
Every Jordanian taxi driver speaks English in such a way that any of ours will envy. In addition, Jordanians speak French and German quite well. Keep in mind that in Jordan a woman is supposed to sit in the back seat of a car, and the Arabs are jealous of this. Drivers are very punctual, polite, pleasant in communication. Only one thing - Jordanians do not like Jews. It’s better to say that Russian, they will immediately begin to smile, nod their heads and say something like “Russia is from Veri Good Country, Putin is from Veri Good President.” Jordan has a very respectful attitude towards our country.
The people in Jordan are hospitable and grateful. You go into the store - they will treat you to tea with lemon balm, just like that, even if you don’t buy anything, but just say again that you are from Russia (all the more, they always ask where from).
I took with me a few matryoshka dolls, stone souvenirs, and gave them to the drivers who took them on excursions. In return, she received gifts in return, although she did not count on them at all.

2. Dead Sea.
For those who have never been to the Dead Sea, I advise you to dedicate a few days to it, or better, evenings. You won't splash around in the Dead Sea for a long time, and there are no entertainments on the coast, except for sunbathing in the sun. During the day, the best pastime is on excursions.
On the territory of the hotel "Dead sea spa" it is quiet, calm, the age of vacationers is about 40-50 years old. Mostly, tourists come for treatment. The restaurant serves delicious food (buffet). The hotel is decent and beautiful. Service is normal. Compared to Israel, resting on the Dead Sea is somewhat cheaper.
In the sea, you have to be careful, the salt that gets into your eyes stings unbearably. In the early days, you can, through negligence, scratch all your legs, stepping on and falling on sharp salt stones at the bottom. Stones, in general, lie closer to the shore, when entering the sea. And at a depth - healing mud. Tourists happily smear themselves with this mud from head to toe. By the way, the blacker the dirt, the better. And it’s not so easy to get it: you can’t dive, and it’s almost impossible to stand, as the water pushes you to the surface.
But after a while you will get used to it and enjoy it, swinging in the evenings in warm sea water, admiring the stars in the sky, the lights of Israel on the horizon, and realizing that you are at the lowest point on the planet, and your body is getting younger under the influence of healing minerals. Unforgettable experience.
From the hotel it is convenient and close to go on excursions such as the Roman cities of Um Qais and Jerash (1 day) and to holy places - to the place of Christ's baptism, Mount Nebo, to Madaba (1 day).
In general, going on excursions in an individually allocated car with a driver is much more convenient and comfortable than with a group on a bus, given that there are practically no Russian guides in Jordan.
The first tour of the Roman cities is very impressive. The cities are well preserved, there are few tourists, so there is a feeling that you get into the past, walking along the huge streets with typical Roman columns. I advise you to first see Um Qais, and then Jerash. On the way, you can pass through the capital of Jordan, Amman, a very modern city. Many women here go without headscarves and veils, drive cars. More such "immodesty" is not observed in any city of Jordan. The so-called "rich quarter" in Amman impresses with houses that look like oriental palaces.
Excursion to the holy places is interesting, I advise you to visit. The territory of modern Jordan is the former Palestine, where Jesus Christ walked. He was baptized, as you know, on the Jordan River, after which the country is named. By the way, the Jordanians respect the Christian faith, as I understood from the behavior of the locals. Christian churches, the very place of baptism are kept clean, restoration work is underway on Christian monuments.
The site of the baptism of Jesus Christ is surprisingly quiet: there are no merchants, only occasionally small groups of tourists wander around. Border guards will meet you at the Jordan River (Israel is within easy reach). They look more with curiosity than with caution. I gave a coin of 10 rubles to one of the border guards. with the image of a Soviet soldier in a helmet. The Jordanian was nervous at first, he wanted to return it, he thought it was a bribe. But the guide explained to him that this is a gift, it has practically no monetary value :) As a result, the border guard was satisfied and even took a picture with me :)
After the Place of Baptism, they are taken along the “serpentine” to Mount Nebo, from which, according to legend, the prophet Moses saw the Promised Land. Indeed, from the top of the mountain the view is magnificent, in clear weather even Jerusalem can be seen. After the mountain - to Madaba, the so-called "mosaic city". The excursion itself to museums and temples with mosaic floors and walls did not impress me, but given that Madaba is part of the general excursion to holy places, it’s not a pity for time. In Madaba, you can take a little walk around the city, look at Jordan, so to speak, from the inside. Narrow deserted streets, where from time to time you come across open shoe workshops, sewing, as in ancient times. Local residents look with interest at foreign tourists, but do not allow themselves anything extra, even exclamations.

3. Petra
On the way to Petra, the driver, on his own initiative, just like that, disinterestedly, brought the Crusaders Shobak to the castle. A walk through the castle is free, respectively, inside is not very clean and well maintained. But still, it impresses with its preserved beauty.
Petra is the pride of Jordan. Probably the same as the Kremlin for Moscow. Petra is a rock city built by the Nabataeans and then conquered by the Romans. The city remained lost until 1812. You can admire for a long time, but you won't understand if you don't see it. I think that Petra should devote 2 full days, and the entrance ticket for 2 days is sold at a big discount. In one day, you can’t bypass all the sights, you still have a feeling of understatement. I met a Russian who came to Jordan for the second time with her children only to go through Petra to the end. Petra leaves no one indifferent. In one of the films about Indiana Jones, the protagonist finds the grail in a wonderful temple, which shockingly opens up at the exit from a dark gorge. The shots were taken in Petra, this is its beginning. But there is still a lot of interesting things in Petra. You can climb the mountain, which is led by a thousand steps, and, standing on top, admire this ancient city. You can go admiring the beauty of temples, tombs, palaces carved into the mountains. No wonder Petra is visited by crowds of tourists from all over the world.
Trade is very actively developed in Petra. The Bedouins living here offer tourists their services - camel and donkey rides, as well as goods - various crafts and decorations. It seems that they all have the same price, everywhere you can hear the cries of “One dInar! One dinar!” (One dinar). But I did not see beggars demanding money for free. I was impressed by one little disheveled girl who was sitting on the ground and, it seems, still cannot even speak. She looked like a beggar, but for every penny she could choose the multi-colored pebbles from the rocks of Petra, laid out in front of her. And I asked two boys to pose for my photo frame, in return I gave them a coin each. After a while, they caught up with me and gave me a small souvenir - a magnet with the image of Petra, and invited me to treat myself to tea, which was again very nice.
Advice to the ladies: never (!) wear high heels in Petra. Only comfortable shoes, sneakers are better. Get ready for a long walk. After all, you will want to climb into the mountains, to the place of sacrifice, to the Monastery. Do not take a lot of heavy things with you. The main thing is comfortable shoes and clothes, a camera, a guidebook, money (to have lunch, buy water, maybe souvenirs).
In general, the souvenirs that were sold in Petra did not interest me very much. For some reason I bought a necklace made of camel bone, but never put it on (the smell is specific).
There is an excursion "Night Petra" (ticket costs 12 dinars), starts late in the evening, the path lies along the gorge to the facade of the Treasury in Petra. Very romantic! I will not tell the details, otherwise I will reveal all the secrets. I can only say that the guides are in English. But this is not the main thing, the most memorable is the impressions of what he saw.
It is not necessary to take a Russian guide with you to Petra, it is quite possible to get by with the guidebook of the author A. Kochneva. The book describes the route in detail, there is a map, it is not difficult to figure it out. By the way, a wish to the author: if you make a new edition of the book, please include more diagrams and drawings.

Petra is a true wonder of the world. Go - you won't regret it.

4. Red Sea. Aqaba.
Aqaba is a port city on the Red Sea coast. Here are built excellent hotels with high quality service. There are also paid beaches - clean, well-groomed, with good service. By the way, the Aquamarine hotel chain has its own beach, which is a platform made of concrete slabs; it is impossible to relax on it. There is not enough space, some “leftists” hang out, and even sports competitions are held, against the backdrop of wild screams of fans. So it’s better for residents of the Aquamarine hotel chain to immediately look for a paid beach, it’s not far away, the cost is 6 dinars (about 180 rubles) per person per day. There is a closed area on the paid beach, there is all the necessary service, waiters.
The Red Sea speaks for itself. Clear water, colorful fish, all conditions for diving.
The city of Aqaba itself is clean, tidy, with many shops, pastry shops, cafes. You can walk even late at night and not be afraid to dine at local cafes.

5. Desert Wadi Rum
For thrill-seekers and romantics, I advise you to spend the night in the Wadi Rum desert. Pink sand, rocks, open spaces… You can come to the desert from any city by taxi, buy a ticket at the entrance, choose a route. And then ride a jeep through the desert, stopping at the most interesting places, walking along the dune, admiring the sunset ... Many go to the desert just for the sunset. Truly an unforgettable sight. The whole desert, the whole sky turns pink-red, and a huge white sun hangs over the rocks .. It feels like you are on Mars. The photos turn out amazing.
Tip for those who go to Wadi Rum: bring plenty of warm clothes, especially for children. It is very, very cold at night, with a piercing wind.
Overnight stay for tourists is organized in Bedouin tents, in the middle of the desert. Until the very night, by the firelight, the Bedouins play national instruments, sing, treat them to dinner and tea. And tourists of different nationalities are located around the fire and have a rest. Then everyone goes to bed. Of course, the conditions are not a European hotel. Mattresses lie right on the sand, but it's pink sand! The wind whistles through the holes in the tent, but the stars are visible! The blankets smell like camels, but this is a desert! This is how the Bedouins live and roam. Everything is real. Just a few hours, and impressions - for a lifetime.

6. Souvenirs
Many people bring handmade colored sand bottles and jewelry as a keepsake. You can take spices, coffee, nuts (it is better to buy in local markets) and, of course, sweets (from the pastry shops themselves). Jordanian sweets are very tasty, unusual, they are sweet cookies, like baked sweets.
If you go to Jordan, take a few nesting dolls with you, I assure you, there will be people to whom you want to give them. And many will see this miracle for the first time.

Here, in a nutshell, is all about Jordan. The trip left the brightest impressions, from the very first to the last day in this country.

It is a Muslim country with its rich history, biblical legends and lost cities. Many traditions and features of the national character are due to religion, although this dependence is not as strong as in many other Islamic states.

Jordanians are friendly and hospitable people. So, it is considered normal to invite a person with whom you have just made an acquaintance to your house, or to come to the aid of a confused foreigner.

The hot climate largely determines the leisurely pace of life of the Jordanians and some of their forgetfulness. An Arab has to be reminded of this or that matter several times, and an order in a restaurant often takes more than an hour to prepare.

Jordan is one of the countries with rather conservative views. This is clearly expressed in relation to the sexes. Women are restricted in their rights, in some cases they are even forbidden to sit next to men, and separate rooms for women are made in Jordanian houses. Women should walk in closed clothes and behave as modestly and restrainedly as possible.

At the same time, the attitude of Jordanian men towards their wives is very careful and zealous, the wife is sacred. So, in men's conversations, the wife should not be touched upon, except in extreme cases (for example, serious health problems). Jordanians, like most Muslims, are very jealous of their national and religious feelings. In conversations, you need to try with all your might not to offend them. A special time is fasting in the month of Ramadan, when residents give up almost all worldly pleasures.

The surprise of a European tourist can be caused by the increased emotionality of the inhabitants of the country and the habit of clarifying almost all disputes in raised tones, with active gestures.

Population

The total number of inhabitants of Jordan is about 5.9 million people. The population of the country mainly consists of Arabs (they are 95%). Within them, Jordanian Arabs (35%) and former residents of Palestine (55%) are distinguished, who were forced to move to Jordan and obtain citizenship in it during the Arab-Israeli wars of 1948 and 1967.

In addition to them, a fairly large number of Chechens, Armenians, Syrians and people from the Caucasus, called "Circassians" or "Sherkasi", live in the country. You can also meet Jordanians with European origins.

After the war in Iraq that began in 2003, refugees from this country are resettled in Jordan (there are 150-300 thousand of them registered). The number of immigrants from Lebanon is also large, as well as workers, consisting mainly of Egyptian Arabs.

Language

The official language of the nation is Arabic. In the government sphere, in business circles and among educated citizens, English is actively used. It is also well owned by shopkeepers in popular tourist centers, which allows them to bargain freely with European buyers. Characteristically, English is a compulsory subject in Jordanian schools.

A number of educational institutions also teach French. Although it is not mandatory, French is growing in popularity, radio broadcasts are being made in it, and a fairly large French-speaking society is forming in the country.

Religion

Almost the entire population of Jordan can be classified as Sunni Muslims, actively preaching Islam. About 6% of the inhabitants are Christians. Within this community, adherents of Orthodox, Catholic Christianity, as well as various areas of Protestantism, stand out. Christians are mostly of Arab origin, although services are conducted in many European languages.

A minority of the inhabitants of Jordan are religious minorities of various kinds: representatives of the Ismailis and supporters of the Baha'i faith.

Behavior rules

Tourists should remember a number of rules of conduct, the violation of which can offend the dignity of the Jordanians. For example, in the country it is not customary to abuse alcohol and walk around drunk outside of hotels or bars.

Especially strict orders during the period when Muslims fast. During this time, eating, smoking or drinking alcohol in crowded places is considered indecent and offensive. It is better for tourists to eat in a restaurant in a hotel or in establishments near attractions. Yes, and behavior during the period of fasting should be much more restrained than at other times.

Jordanians greet each other and say goodbye with a handshake. At a meeting, it is supposed to ask questions about current affairs (except for personal life). Greetings are quite long, and interest in health, children of the interlocutor, etc. more ritualistic than sincere.

Tourists should be careful with active gestures in public, as Jordanians can misunderstand some movements. For most gestures, the inhabitants of the country use the right hand, since the left is associated with the concept of "impurity". So, the food served should be taken only with the right hand and no less than three fingers.

During the meal, the right to take food first is granted to the owner of the house, he also completes the meal. If food falls on the table, it is considered normal to pick it up and eat it. It is better to take food from the tray closest to you. Guests are always offered to drink coffee, it is not supposed to refuse, it will be considered disrespectful. You can't blow on hot food.

There are quite a few rules in Jordan regarding women. It is better to choose clothes that are loose, covering knees and hands, modest, so as not to cause unnecessary unrest among the local population. It is extremely indecent for a woman to try to sit in the front seat of a car. Also, a woman never touches an unfamiliar man, even when greeting.

It is better not to take risks and not appear on the public beaches of Jordan in full nude, at any time of the day. Nudist beaches are not here and cannot be.

You also need to be careful when taking pictures. Objects of strategic importance, vehicles should not fall into the frame. When photographing people, you must first ask their permission to do so.

National Jordanian holidays

Muslims celebrate their holidays according to the lunar calendar, which is 10-12 days shorter than the Gregorian calendar. The end of the month of Ramadan and the Feast of the Sacrifice are accompanied by almost a week of general rest, even individual museums are closed.

• January 1 - Christian New Year;
• January 15 - Day of the Tree;
• January 30 - Birthday of King Abdullah II;
• March 22 - Day of the League of Arab States;
• March 25 - Independence Day;
• May 1 - Labor Day;
• May 25 - Independence and Army Day;
• June 9 - the day of ascension to the throne of King Abdullah II;
• November 14 - Birthday of King Hussein;
• December 25 - Catholic Christmas.

Hello dear FrauWow readers. Today we are interviewing Olga Razina, who has been living in Jordan for 7 years. She will share with us her story and experience of life in the Middle East.

• What did you do, what did you live before moving? What led you to decide to move? Tell your story.

Moving to the East was never part of my plans. I lived an ordinary life, studied finance at the university, worked part-time, was fond of fitness. But in our university there have always been many foreign students - and that's how I met my future husband. When the studies came to an end, the question arose of getting married and moving to the homeland of the spouse. Few of my relatives supported me, everyone had the same fears: a harem, a veil, slavery. Now all this is in the past, we live happily in Jordan. I often go home to visit my parents.

moving

• Tell me about the move. What documents were needed?

To enter Jordan, you need to buy a visa, which is sold at the airport ($56). This is a tourist option, designed for 1 month. At the border, to explain the reasons for the visit, it was enough for me to show a marriage certificate concluded in a mosque in my homeland. In Russia, such a document has no legal force, but in Jordan, religious marriage is the basis of the union. After that, all the papers of the local sample were issued in court. During the day, a marriage certificate and the so-called family book are issued - a document with four pages for data on wives and a huge field for entering future children. Thereafter, the spouse of a Jordanian is entitled to a permanent residence permit, which must be renewed annually. After 5 years, you can apply for citizenship.

Ajlun Castle

Impression

• What were the most vivid impressions upon arrival, even, maybe, a culture shock?

The most striking impression is the exceptionally smiling faces and the disinterested willingness of the local population to help and chat about everything in the world. The following points were also surprising:

1. Perfect cleanliness in houses and mountains of garbage on the street. Jordanian women are ideal hosts. Floors, windows, dishes are shiny, carpets are thoroughly cleaned, and everything in the kitchen is washed with chlorine after each cooking. But throwing an old sofa or a TV box over a fence is a common thing. Wrappers and empty bottles often lie on the sidewalk, and no one picks up the garbage left after picnics. The state is trying to actively deal with the situation: there are many cleaners in the city, public service calls to protect the environment. But the results, unfortunately, are not very noticeable.
2. Abundance of life. Huge centipedes, caterpillars, flying cockroaches, scorpions, poisonous spiders and snakes - all this is in Jordan. You won’t meet them in the center of the capital, but on the outskirts, in small towns, as well as in desert areas, there are plenty of such guests. You always have to be careful.
3. consanguineous marriages. Marriage without the consent of young and early marriages in Jordan is now unheard of. However, the union of cousins ​​​​is still a common practice. For many families, this is seen as a convenient solution: relations within the clan are strengthened, and the boy and girl, who have grown up side by side since childhood, know each other and future relatives well. More or less accustomed to this course of things, I was lucky to attend such a wedding. Two twin sisters married their children. I could not believe my eyes: the mother of the groom and the mother of the bride are the same person. The only thing is that before entering into such a marriage, the couple is tested for genetic diseases. Only then do the authorities give the green light to the union.
4. Polygamy. Everyone knows that Islam allows men to have 4 wives. A picture involuntarily pops up in my head: women, always scandalous and making sure that their husband gives them the same gifts. The reality turned out to be somewhat different. Polygamy in Jordan is not so common, but still there are precedents. I was “lucky”: my father-in-law has 2 wives. These women not only live peacefully under the same roof (each has a separate floor of a private house), but also call each other sisters, raise children together, go shopping, cook and receive guests. It often happens that two women are married by men who work abroad for many months: in Saudi Arabia, the Emirates and Qatar. One wife is waiting for them there, and the other in Jordan. And that suits everyone. What is it - hopelessness or female wisdom, it is difficult to answer. But local girls absorb the fact that a husband can marry again, with mother's milk.
5. Terrible cold in winter. Before my arrival, it seemed to me that here is eternal summer. But winter, albeit belatedly, comes to Jordan. From November, a strong wind begins to blow, it often rains, and sometimes sleet. Despite the fact that the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C, it is unbearably cold in the country, especially in the mountainous and northern regions. In addition, houses with stone floors and, as a rule, without heating, become damp and very uncomfortable.

camels

Religion

• How "other" are people in Jordan? What religion is dominant?

Jordan is dominated by Islam - 95% people profess it. Despite the fact that religion is closely intertwined in all aspects of life, most people adhere to a moderate interpretation and are very tolerant of representatives of other religions.

5% of citizens are Christians, mostly Catholics. On the same street, it is quite possible to meet a mosque and a church. Jordanians cannot be called "other". These are ordinary people with the same worries as in the rest of the world.

But in continuation of the topic of local hospitality, it is worth talking about the other side of the coin: the lack of personal space. It just doesn't exist. In the morning, a bored neighbor can easily come to you for an hour. It doesn't matter if you are busy or not. It is impossible to refuse a person who has entered under any pretext - this is the height of indecency. In the evening, without an invitation, it is quite possible to wait for relatives or friends. All this is very far from Western individualism and sometimes tiresome.

Traditions

• Tell us about the beautiful traditions and national holidays of this country.

There are 2 main holidays in Jordan: Muslim Eid al-Fitr (breaking the fast at the end of Ramadan) and Eid al-Adha (holiday at the end of the Hajj). In addition to religious rites, on these days the men of the family get together and visit all relatives and their children, giving them impressive cash gifts. Hostesses welcome guests with coffee and freshly baked homemade sweets with dates. Engagements and weddings are celebrated lavishly: about 500 people gather in special halls, restaurants or hotels. The celebration is almost always separate, women and men are in different rooms. The groom's side bears the costs. Grandiose holidays are also arranged in honor of graduation from school or university.

Attractions

• Where did your acquaintance with Jordan begin? Which ones did you like?

Before the birth of children, I managed to travel all over the country. Very interesting at the Dead Sea. The road to it from the capital rushes sharply down - you can feel the change in pressure and temperature difference. At the lowest point on the planet, it is hot and stuffy even in winter, when freezing rains pour in Amman. The sea and its surroundings are very beautiful, but, unfortunately, every year the water goes further and further - the sea dries up very quickly. Nevertheless, more and more luxury hotels are opening on the coast.

Another favorite place is the Wadi Rum desert and around Petra. Nature has painted these places in all shades of gold, red, pink and burgundy. And after sunset, it seems that the starry sky is very close. Spending the night among the sands in futuristic ball-tents with a transparent dome is one of the most vivid impressions in my life.

In Amman, I like the Fortress Hill, where the ancient temple of Hercules is located. You can enter this open-air museum for a nominal fee and simply wander among the ancient ruins. In addition, a magnificent panoramic view of the oldest part of the capital with a pile of houses and narrow streets opens up from the hill, and at the same time - of new areas with skyscrapers and highways. Here the passage of time and the change of civilizations are especially acutely felt.

And everyone who really wants to discover the country should go on a trip to local protected areas. Jordan is fraught with many beautiful pearls. Due to the fact that the state is geographically elongated from north to south, here you can find various natural areas, many of which are world-class nature reserves. They are home to unique species of birds, wild cats and mountain goats. It is especially beautiful in Jordan in the spring. In March and April, every dry thorn blossoms, and emerald grass grows to the waist. Everyone who used to consider Jordan a wild desert freezes in amazement.

Kitchen

• Tell us about the cuisine of this country. How different are the dishes from Russian cuisine? What is your favorite local dish?

All dishes in Jordan are very tasty and nutritious. Lamb, rice, legumes, vegetables and, of course, special spices predominate. The whole family gathers for breakfast, especially on weekends. On the table is a wide selection of products for every taste. Forget muesli and freshly squeezed juice. Breakfast in Jordan is a small lunch. A traditional Jordanian dish and the pride of every housewife is mansaf: tender lamb in a thick sour-milk sauce and snow-white rice, roasted almonds and a little parsley. For special piquancy, a tray with a mansaf is sometimes decorated with a ram's skull.

In Jordan, I learned how to cook a thousand and one rice dishes. Here, this cereal is combined with other products in an absolutely incredible way. Especially delicious is maglube - an inverted puff "pie" with rice, deep-fried potatoes, eggplant and cauliflower.

Jordanian stuffed cabbage is also unusual. They are unlike the large envelopes we are used to - round rice with minced meat, dried mint and fragrant spices is wrapped in thin and long rolls. The dish is prepared with garlic and a lot of cumin, poured with plenty of lemon juice.

I also fell in love with local sweets: crispy baklava, sweets with nuts and a delicate knafe dessert, which certainly accompanies all joyful events in the life of Jordanians. Knafeh is made from the thinnest strings of dough, resembling vermicelli, and unsalted sheep's cheese. The dessert is topped with ground pistachios and sprinkled with sugar syrup.

In general, sweets in Jordan are in great demand.. Small shops with goodies and chic big stores can be found on every corner. At expensive candy stores, often owned by family members for many years, a gift set of candies in a handmade wooden box can cost around $450!

Leisure

• How is life for women who moved to Jordan from the CIS?

Our compatriots, as well as There are quite a lot of women from the post-Soviet space in Jordan. The Russian and Ukrainian diaspora have their own clubs, which unite thousands of participants. Serious work is being done in them: poetry evenings, film festivals, circles and language courses are organized for everyone who wants to preserve their culture away from their homeland.

Job

• Who can get a job? Is the salary decent?

Even 10 years ago, there were few working women in Jordan. Today, everything has changed - many Jordanians strive to work. It is not uncommon to meet a policewoman, a soldier, a pharmacist in a pharmacy, a salesman, and even an Uber taxi driver. Our compatriots who are not accustomed to staying at home are not far behind. Especially lucky are those who have the profession of a doctor. The diploma here will have to be confirmed by passing an exam in English, but the work guarantees a good income and recognition in society.

The reverse side is a large influx of patients and their relatives. They willingly take foreigners to schools, mostly as English teachers. Those who still in Russia were able to take courses for hairdressers, make-up artists and cosmetologists did not fail. These professions are in great demand here, and our craftswomen are worth their weight in gold. You will have to work a lot, especially on weekends when weddings and engagements are arranged. But salary is high: cost and make-up for the bride starts from $350.

Children

• How many children do women who come from other countries and, in particular, from Russia decide to have? And are they resolved at all?

There were always many children in local families. But due to the rising cost of living, modern couples still rarely give birth to more than 4. Approximately the same number of babies are usually in mixed marriages. Children born to a Jordanian father automatically acquire the citizenship of the country and belong to the male family. In the event of his death, the responsibility for providing for them lies with his brothers or father. Contrary to popular stereotypes, after a divorce, children stay with their mother until at least 7 years old. At the same time, the ex-husband is obliged to fully provide for them. At an older age, the issue of guardianship is reviewed in court, taking into account the desire of the child himself. The only point is that a woman cannot remarry. Otherwise, the child automatically goes to the husband's family.

childbirth

• How comfortable are medical facilities for immigrant women: antenatal clinics, maternity hospitals? Are home and partner births welcome? Is it possible to stay together with a child in the maternity hospital, or are mothers separated from babies?

The wife of every Jordanian, regardless of nationality, is entitled to full medical care. If the husband is a civil servant, it is provided free of charge in public hospitals. In private clinics, it is covered by insurance paid by the employer. services in public medical institutions are moderate, but private clinics are expensive. The level of medicine and education of doctors is very high.

Pregnancy is usually carried out by a gynecologist in the district clinic, but huge queues, including due to the influx of Syrian refugees, force women to go to private clinics. Pregnancy in Jordan is not a disease. No one scares expectant mothers with threats and tones, does not force them to go to bed for prevention and take many tests. The doctor is visited once a month for ultrasound, control weighing and pressure measurement. All other examinations - only in the presence of specific pathologies and clear indications.

Nature in Jordan

Home births are not practiced in Jordan. Moreover, women often and willingly agree to a caesarean section: many sincerely believe that giving birth is much easier this way, and recovery is faster. However, such an operation is expensive (about $ 1,500 in a mid-level private clinic). Husbands are also not present at childbirth, they can only stay with their wife for a little while in labor, if the birth block is designed for one woman in labor. Laying the baby on the chest, late cutting of the umbilical cord, as well as the joint stay of the mother and the newborn are not here. The child is immediately taken away for a mandatory examination by a neonatologist, and the woman, if necessary, is stitched under anesthesia.

A new mother wakes up clean, neat and dressed. She is transferred to the ward, and the child is brought at the first request and always left for feeding. At night, the baby is in the children's department under the supervision of several specialists caring for newborns. If the birth went well, they are discharged from the hospital the next day, after a cesarean - one day later. In state clinics, it happens that there are practically no places, and the woman in labor leaves with the baby 2 hours after the birth.

Upbringing

• How is the upbringing of children? Maybe more permissiveness than if mom was at home? Or, on the contrary, everything is very strict?

Raising and caring for children in Jordan is the main pain of all mothers from the CIS. Children are loved madly here and all the relatives spoil them very much. But, unfortunately, this often manifests itself in uncontrolled watching TV, eating chips and sweets. There is no daily regimen for infants and preschoolers. The arrival of a new family member does little to change the general course of life: very tiny children are taken here with them to visit very noisy weddings, picnics and trips to the sea.

Boiling bottles and nipples, diets for breastfeeding, daily routine, developmental activities and the phased introduction of complementary foods - in Jordan only our compatriots are engaged in this, mercilessly fighting against Arab relatives. Here, a six-month-old baby can easily be fed rice with fatty lamb and drink cola. Paradoxically, children grow up healthy and strong.

Spring in Jordan

Education

• Is it possible for a child to go to kindergarten? Tell us about the daily routine in kindergarten. At what age can you attend kindergarten?

Kindergartens in Jordan are only private. There are nurseries for toddlers and groups for older children. Cheaper options are several rooms with toys, where teachers look after the children. In expensive kindergartens there are educational and sports activities. But this pleasure is not available to everyone. In addition, most groups only work until 12 noon, which is often not suitable for working mothers. That's why, having a family, women stop working, leave the kids in the care of grandmothers or hire a Filipino nanny.

• And the school? How many years is school education? Is the level of such education high?

School education is separate for boys and girls. Education starts at the age of 6 and lasts for 12 years. This is a very important step. Parents approach the choice of school thoroughly and, if the family budget allows, send their children to private educational institutions. The level of education is high in both private and public institutions. However, public schools are often overcrowded. Because of the Syrian refugees, children study in 2 shifts, and there are not enough teachers. Private institutions provide meals, developmental programs, take students home by bus. Graduate class is the hardest. All students pass very difficult tests in all subjects. Universities in the country are paid, but it will not work to enter any specialty. It all depends on the results of the final exams at school - each profession has its own passing score. It is the highest for future doctors.

I don't plan to leave Jordan. Despite cultural differences and instability in the region, live peacefully in the country. It is also easier here to achieve a decent standard of living for yourself and your children, doing honest work. Anyone who moves to Jordan for permanent residence should be advised not to try to fight windmills, but simply to accept the local way of life - traditions here have not changed for centuries. The main thing is to have a reliable person nearby who will help you overcome the difficult period of adaptation.

The decision to go on vacation to this country was born in an instant. The person whom I trust with all my heart said only a couple of phrases about Jordan, and I felt - I'm here! And I didn’t even specifically become interested in what the political situation was there, nature-weather, because I knew I would go no matter what. I chose a place to relax near the city of Aqaba in much the same way - I saw the sky above the local beach in a photograph of extraordinary beauty, and everything else was no longer important. Do you think it's frivolous? And I'll tell you that we all need to turn off logic and mind more often and trust our heart. All the most wonderful things in my life happened when I did just that. And when I flew to Jordan, it seemed to me that I was going on a fabulous journey. And so it turned out - I assure you!

So, I'm in Jordan. From the airport in Amman to Aqaba we were driven by a Jordanian driver who spoke Russian tolerably. It turned out that he studied in Belarus, his wife is Russian. All the way he talked about her: how wonderful Sveta is, how tasty the soup cooks for him, etc. and so on. When I called her, I invariably read the conversation with the words: “I love you.” Insanely touching.

While we were driving, we were stopped several times by local traffic cops. But they never checked our documents even at customs posts (and there are plenty of them, since Jordan borders on three countries - Egypt, Saudi Arabia and Israel). As soon as they listened to the words "rus", they passed without talking. Sometimes the driver didn’t have to say that he was carrying Russians - the “traffic cops” knew about it themselves, because our minibus smelled strongly of alcohol (not everyone could resist duty free). The Jordanian policemen made sure to wave their hands and break into a charming smile. Russian Jordanians love. For what? For some reason, they think that we are similar to them in character. Temperament. May be. Be that as it may, upon hearing Russian speech, almost everywhere in Jordan they smiled at us so affably and so sincerely that it evoked a good feeling in return. It turned out that the Russians in Jordan have an open way even to places where other tourists are not allowed. But the Americans are not favored here. And the English. If they stop their car, they will turn everything in it over and check and recheck it themselves.

police officers

Still, I would like to talk about them separately. There are many of them in the country. Almost like ours, but ... Here, the guards are all with higher education (this is a prerequisite). And they don't take bribes. As the taxi driver Radi said, if he violated the rules, the policeman can simply let him go, but he won’t take the money, because it will become known (like the driver will tell his neighbor, the other one, and the city is small, everyone knows each other) and then his name will be entered into the database data and he will not get a job anywhere. If only we could! Many police officers stand at their posts with weapons. Or even near a huge Hummer with a machine gun on the roof. As I understand it, all these security measures are in order not to let the terrorists through. Jordanians are proud that their country is now one of the most peaceful and therefore do not relax. They installed metal frames at the entrance to each hotel, for example ... There is practically no crime in the country. It's amazing, but you can leave your bag on the street and no one will touch it. Drop your wallet, come back - it will lie in its place. Well, unless the gypsies pick him up (and they are even here and the Jordanians do not like them).

Water, petrol and more

Water is of great value here. After all, most of the country is desert. Therefore, it would seem that a bottle of water here should cost insanely expensive, but no - about 50-70 cents, that is, definitely not more expensive than ours. Jordanians pay for utilities, including water for a family (of 5-7 people) for three months (they receive receipts once every 3 months, not monthly) for about ... 50 dollars! So the state took care of them. When they hear about our tariffs for a communal apartment, they are sincerely amazed. Moreover, their average salaries are higher than ours (not counting Moscow). Gasoline costs around $1 per litre. And again, this is despite the fact that there is no oil in Jordan. No oil, no gas, no other resources. “It's amazing, everything is in Russia! And you have as much water as you want, and you pay for all this many times more than we do!” - every now and then the guide Mahmoud Wasef exclaimed. And taxes, by the way, we have about the same: Jordanians pay at the end of the year 12% of their earnings. This money goes exclusively to medical care and pensions.

The route through the desert from Amman to Aqaba was laid about half a century ago. The road is just perfect. For 400 km, not a single dimple-hole. I was even offended: when I drive from Moscow to Bryansk, the same 400 km, the suspension of the car has to be repaired. And here - the desert and on you, such a road! And all the markings from below are highlighted, so, as in a computer game, you won’t get out of the way even on a dark night. In general, it is funny to watch how a Bedouin who has stopped somewhere on the side of the road pitches something like a tent for himself and connects a mini-fridge to some invisible outlet (is it in the ground, or what?).

Women of Jordan

I can talk about them for hours. I'll start, of course, with clothes. I remember the first morning of my stay at the hotel I went to the pool in shorts and a T-shirt and was stunned. There sunbathed (if I may say so) girls wrapped in black. Moreover, some were wearing something like raincoats. They settled down on sunbeds as if they were really sunbathing. On top of the raincoats, beach towels were wrapped ... Apparently, it's a shame to cover up, as one of the European guests joked. Husbands and children were in swimming trunks. What a forty-degree heat! Looking at the Jordanian women, taking off their T-shirt and “bare” to the swimsuit was somehow embarrassing even. And in all seriousness, I thought for a long time how to plunge into the pool. Maybe run for a blouse? I was brought to my senses by two European women who "shamelessly" came out in thongs (at least I had swimming shorts - I knew that I was going to an Arab country).

Already on the sea coast I watched the Jordanians. Wrapped in their robes, they swam just like that, but in .... mask and fins. It looked very funny. But I must say that in the city of Aqaba (and my hotel was not far from it), many women walk almost like Europeans, only with their heads covered. There is also an uncovered one (apparently "fashionistas" who came from the capital - Amman). Nobody threw stones at them. At least with me. In general, the Jordanians, it seemed to me, are a very tolerant people. There seem to be no strict requirements for women's clothing as such, and it is believed that this is the choice of every lady and her husband. But most stick to tradition. And by the way, Jordanians don't cover their faces. If you see a woman here wrapped up so that one slit for her eyes is visible, then this is coming from neighboring Saudi Arabia. And they are just not very tolerant. One of the men, who came to Aqaba on vacation from the SA, was very indignant when he saw a Russian girl (she is from Yekaterinburg) in a thong near the pool. For a long time I explained something to the hotel staff, but he shrugged his hands, they say, this is her right. As a result, the "Arabian" was offended and did not even come out for dinner.

Jordanian men are, of course, madly in love with watching European tourists. More specifically, tourists. Well, where else will they see such a show with bare arms, legs, shoulders? And on the sea in general .... There were probably two dozen security guards, lifeguards, cleaners, etc. at our beach club. While there were about the same number of tourists swimming there. I think so - the Jordanians worked there for free, just to look at women in thongs))). But what is interesting - they look somehow ... not vulgar, but innocently admiring. After their many views, you don’t want to wash yourself right there. But back to women.

My guide explained to me that now it is difficult for women without higher education and work to get married. They do not take them ... So now 30% of women work in Jordan (an unheard of figure for a country where this has never been accepted). And I was lucky to see a policewoman!

And by the way, Jordanians are allowed to have multiple wives. But now not many people take advantage of this opportunity. First, it's expensive. Secondly, the demand, I repeat, for educated working women, and such women do not want to see competitors in their home))). Although I spoke with a taxi driver (he hardly earns much), who had two wives and was going to marry a third. I don't know what attracts them? Either he takes the most unpromising (illiterate and poor), or what secret he has ....

As they say, to be continued...

10.03.2017

The La Strada program continues to talk about the peculiarities of marital relations in different countries. Today we will talk about the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan - a country with strong Muslim traditions.

The system of family law, as well as the process of concluding and dissolving a marriage here, largely depends on the prevailing religious views, which are held by the majority of the country's population.

In Jordan, the marriage process takes place only in court. At the same time, a marriage contract is signed without fail. The document specifies the amount of “kalym”, which in the event of a divorce, the husband will be obliged to pay to his wife. When marrying in Jordan, newlyweds are also given a "Book of the Family", where they enter the names of children and other wives.

In general, several types of family relations are accepted in Jordan, within which the role and position of a woman can differ significantly. In families that do not adhere to religious traditions to fanaticism, women have all the same rights as Europeans.

In the family of orthodox Muslims, the fate of women depends on the head of the family. Often a woman is required to submit completely to her husband.

When marrying a foreigner, there is one rule: if the husband is a Muslim and the wife is a Christian, then after the death of her husband, she will not be able to claim his property.

polygamy

As in many Muslim countries, in Jordan, according to Islamic traditions and Sharia law, polygamy is allowed. However, it is forbidden for a man to have more than four wives at the same time. The conventional wisdom that a Muslim husband does not have the right to marry a second, third or fourth woman without the consent of his wife is a myth.

A man who wants to become a polygamist will need to submit documents confirming his financial solvency and the ability to support all wives.

To marry a Jordanian, a foreign woman will need the consent of her father for the wedding. Moreover, the document must be legalized in accordance with the established procedure, and translated into Arabic on the territory of Jordan. The translation must be notarized.

Divorce in Jordan

Both men and women have the right to divorce in Jordan. The wife who initiated the divorce is obliged to return to her husband all the jewelry donated, as well as the money that he gave the bride for the wedding.

If the spouse initiates the breakup, the wife can keep all the gifts. In addition, the husband will have to pay the amount specified in the marriage contract.

According to the law of the country, children under 18 after a divorce must stay with their father. They can stay with their mother if the spouse agrees to this. According to the employees of the Embassy of the Republic of Belarus in the Syrian Arab Republic, who are authorized to work with Belarusian citizens residing in Jordan, the chances of returning a common child to the mother in the event of a break in marital relations with a Jordanian in Jordan are practically zero. The rule is valid even if the child has a passport of a citizen of the Republic of Belarus.

Registration of a residence permit

The procedure for obtaining a residence permit in Jordan by a woman, a citizen of the Republic of Belarus, married to a Jordanian citizen, is carried out on the basis of the Jordanian Nationality Law No. 6 of 1954. In accordance with this law, a foreign woman has the right to obtain a residence permit for a period of 5 years. At the same time, a mandatory requirement is to fill out the "Residence Form for the Wives of Jordanians" at the Ministry of the Interior of Jordan, provide a copy of the passport of the husband and wife, a marriage certificate and other documents at the request of the Jordanian authorities.

Women's rights

On the basis of a residence permit, in accordance with the current Jordanian law, a woman can work in the territory of this country. The labor law of this country establishes the norms of gender equality and accordingly prohibits discrimination against women.

When entering into a marriage, it should be remembered that in Jordan a Belarusian citizen falls under the jurisdiction of the Sharia court, which, in most cases, defends exclusively the interests of the spouse. In the event of the death of a spouse, a woman, according to Sharia law, cannot take independent actions without the consent of the brother of the deceased / deceased husband.

Travel abroad

It is not always possible for a Belarusian citizen to leave Jordan without the consent of her Jordanian spouse. Since marital matters are mainly regulated by Sharia law, a man has the right not to let his wife leave his home. It should be borne in mind that this issue is more related to the category of intra-family relations, where an agreement between spouses may apply.

According to the employees of the Embassy of the Republic of Belarus in the Syrian Arab Republic, the written consent of the spouse is required for the departure of the wife of a Jordanian citizen. The exception is when a woman leaves the country with a Belarusian passport and no additional questions arise during border control. The reason for entry and length of stay may indicate that the woman is married and therefore must provide permission to leave from her Jordanian spouse.

The possibility of imposing a ban on the departure of a foreign wife from Jordan, as in most Arab Muslim countries, is the norm.

With regard to children, a child, if the father is a citizen of Jordan, cannot be moved outside the country without his consent. Even if the child has a passport of a citizen of the Republic of Belarus.

Please note that a child born in a marriage with a citizen of Jordan, in addition to Jordanian citizenship, in accordance with the legislation of the Republic of Belarus, acquires Belarusian citizenship if one of his parents is a citizen of the Republic of Belarus (Law "On Citizenship of the Republic of Belarus" No. 136-3 from 08/01/2002).

Employees of the Embassy of the Republic of Belarus in Syria want to warn Belarusian women against hasty marriages with citizens of Jordan. Indeed, after the birth of children, numerous problems can arise with returning to their homeland. Therefore, it is very important before marriage to study Jordanian legislation in detail, visit this country, learn about the customs and traditions of the tribe of which the Jordanian citizen is a native, and get to know his relatives. Only after that is it worth merging into a foreign environment and accepting the traditional Jordanian way of life.

Program "La Strada"

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