To begin with, we take a canvas (I have a two-thread) and put our stretcher on it. Then we cut the canvas so that 5 cm of fabric remains around the stretcher.

Next, you need to iron the canvas so that it stretches evenly in the future. Moisten especially strong folds of the canvas with water to iron them out. Keep in mind that if you wet the entire canvas, it may shrink slightly when ironing.

After you have stroked the canvas, you need to put a stretcher on it. The stretcher must be laid down with the side where the slats are cut inward (this is necessary so that the canvas does not touch the wood from the inside). If you mix up the side, then when writing a picture, the touch of the canvas with the stretcher will become visible, and this looks unaesthetic.

The next step is to prepare a wood stapler and staples for it. If you don't have a stapler, you can use a hammer and nails, but it will be a little more difficult. When buying a stapler, choose all-metal, it is much more reliable than plastic. If you will often paint in oils, it is definitely needed. In addition, the brackets last for a long time and you do not need to constantly buy nails.

Load the stapler with staples and remove the safety lock from the handle.

Wrap the canvas around the stretcher and pulling the canvas tight enough in the center, drive in the staple in the middle. Press the stapler well before hitting so that the staple is well driven in. If the bracket does not drive in, then you need to adjust the stapler by turning the round knob on top. If you stretch the canvas on nails, then you do not hammer the nail to the end. Hit the nail diagonally to bend the hat to the side. So the canvas will not fly off the nails. After the first staple or nail is driven in, turn the canvas upside down, pull the canvas up and hammer in the staple in the middle of the opposite side.

Then stretch the other side in the same way. As a result, you should get such a tension. The "cross" should turn out to be even, the fabric should not warp. If the first time you didn’t manage to make a fairly even cross, I recommend redoing it.

The next step is to drive in brackets starting from the central ones. First, we drive in the brackets on the two horizontal sides, and then move on to the vertical ones. The farther we move away from the center, the more we need to stretch the canvas. Brackets should be driven in at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other.

After all the brackets on the sides of the stretcher are driven in, turn the canvas over reverse side and fix the canvas with brackets in the middle.

Then carefully wrap the ends of the canvas in the corners and fix with a stapler.

If you did everything right, then the canvas is stretched evenly and looks like a drum. You can start 🙂

Good preparation is the key to a good job. And on good canvas so nice to write!

How to stretch canvas on a stretcher

Subframes
The stretcher serves as the basis for stretching the canvas. Subframes are of 2 types: modular(prefabricated, wedge) and deaf.
Modular (prefabricated, wedge) stretchers can be bought at almost all art stores. They are sold in slats of 2 pieces (in increments of 5 cm in length) and are slightly more expensive than blind subframes. As a rule, for a medium-sized painting, the thickness of the stretcher is 1.8 cm.
Modular stretchers have a huge advantage: their corners are not rigidly fastened and if the picture sags, you can fix everything at home, you just need to knock out the wedges. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the canvas with a hammer and not to drag it.
At deaf stretchers, the corners are rigidly connected and if the canvas sags, then it will have to be pulled. Canvas upholstery should only be done by a specialist!

Stretcher and preservation of the painting
Poor quality stretcher adversely affects the preservation of painting. At the pictures contemporary painters very often there are bad subframes. Unfortunately, not all artists attach great importance subframe quality. Defects in the stretcher do not allow the canvas to be properly stretched over it, which ultimately leads to the destruction of the ground and the painting layer of the picture. A high-quality stretcher is the basis for the long preservation of paintings.

Consider the main defects of the subframe:

• blind connection of corners, which does not make it possible to adjust the tension of the canvas, which causes deformation of the canvas and its sagging
• on the "blind" corners of the stretcher, the artists nailed plywood triangles, which make the stretcher even more rigid and immovable
• no cross or crossbar - for paintings big size. A subframe with a cross or crossbar will not warp and the corners will remain straight
• lack of bevels on the inner sides of the stretcher, which causes creases and scree of the paint layer
• fragile stretcher, which, when stretching the canvas, gives a warp
• step-like, loose connection of planks in the corners and on the cross. With this defect, the canvas is deformed, creases and scree of the paint layer appear and it is impossible to tightly connect the picture to the frame.
• the subframe is made carelessly, from raw wood, as a result of which, after a fairly short period of time, the subframe will “lead” and will have to be replaced (in some cases the frame has to be replaced)
• the subframe is made of wood with knots. Even a well-made stretcher with knots will definitely “lead” over time and will have to be replaced
• subframe with grinder beetle. Thanks to the activity of these insects, the tree decays, turning into dust.
• subframe is infested with mold

Tools
To stretch the canvas, you will need a stapler with staples (Figure No. 1), a special tool for stretching paintings (Figure No. 2), a tape measure and a hammer.

Stretching force of the canvas
The raw canvas is not strongly stretched, because. during the primer, it will stretch significantly. The final touch will be stretching the primed canvas by knocking wedges into the corners. For a blind stretcher, it is desirable to use a primed canvas. It must be pulled tight, like a drum.

Canvas stretch on modular stretcher

• Measure the diagonals of the subframe, they should be the same!!! Staple the corners (2 brackets per corner)
• You need to stretch the canvas with a tool for stretching paintings evenly with the same effort
• When stretching, do not wet the canvas from the non-primed side, this can lead to peeling of the primer
• Pull out the brackets holding the corners of the subframe
• Bend and staple the extra canvas (picture No. 6)
• Insert two wooden wedges into the grooves at the corners of the subframe and carefully knock them out with a hammer (Figure No. 6)

Stretching the canvas on a blank stretcher

• If possible, it is better not to use such a stretcher at all !!!
• Check the diagonals, they must be the same!!!
• Arrange the drawing of the picture on the stretcher exactly horizontally. If you just have an unprimed canvas, it is important to position it so that the direction of the canvas threads is parallel to the edges of the stretcher
• Using the stretching tool, staple the canvas on 4 sides as shown in Figure #3.
• Fix the canvas with a stapler every 2-3 cm along the entire perimeter of the stretcher, moving from the center to the edge, as shown in Figure No. 4
• You need to stretch the canvas with a tool for stretching paintings evenly with the same effort and strong enough, because if the canvas sags, you will need to re-drag it
• Continue stretching the canvas on the stretcher as shown in Figure #5. At the corners, the canvas is carefully tucked up and shot with a stapler
• Bend and staple the extra canvas (picture No. 6), it will still come in handy when hauling the picture

Before you start painting, you will need to stretch the canvas so that the paint lays evenly on it. If you're an artist, learning how to stretch canvas yourself can save you money and do something useful. From this article you will learn how to choose the right things, how to stretch the canvas and how to prepare it for work.

Steps

Preparation

Buy a stretcher or make your own. There are special stretchers with ready-made slats that clamp the canvas. This is the fastest and easiest way. Most artists use stretchers.

Buy a canvas of the right size. The canvas should extend beyond the stretcher by at least 15-20 centimeters (it all depends on the width of the frame). The canvas must be larger than the stretcher, otherwise it will not be possible to stretch it correctly. Measure the size of the stretcher or figure out what size picture you need, and buy a slightly larger canvas.

• It is much easier to stretch the raw canvas (not covered with gesso) than the prepared one. It's best to buy unprimed canvas and gesso it later.

1. Buy others necessary tools. You will need several simple tools for this job. Prepare the following:

   • Atomizer with clean water. You should wet the back of the canvas that you stretch on the stretcher. As it dries, it will shrink and tighten more.
   • Gesso. This primer is often used to treat the canvas after it has been stretched. Gesso is a white mixture of plaster, chalk, and other substances that are sold in many art supply stores.
   • Special tongs for stretching the canvas. You can buy them in almost all specialized stores. These tongs have a flat surface that allows you to stretch the canvas without leaving holes in it.
   • stapler. Ordinary staplers are not suitable for these purposes. To securely fasten the canvas, you will need a special furniture stapler.

2. Cut the canvas. Cut out a section 8-10 centimeters larger than the frame, taking into account the width of the frame. You will need these extra pieces of canvas to hold on to as you pull the canvas. Having bought all the necessary tools, a stretcher and canvas, cut the canvas of the desired size from the canvas with a special sharp knife.

   • If the canvas is torn apart, more straight line than when cut. Cut the canvas with a knife, and then tear it along the fibers - you get a flat area.

   How to stretch canvas

   1. Position the frame in the center of the canvas. Lay the canvas on work surface and put the frame on top. Try to smooth the canvas as much as possible.

      • The fibers of the canvas should be parallel and perpendicular to the frame rails. If they lie at an angle, the frame will deform and the edges will begin to curl up.

   2. Stretch the canvas along the long side first. Take the long side closest to you and tuck it in. Attach the canvas to the frame from the inside with three staples (i.e. you need to wrap the frame with canvas and secure it from the inside). The edges of the canvas do not need to be fixed yet - you will do this later.

      • Turn the canvas with the stretcher or go around the work surface on the other side and do the same with the second side. Stretch the canvas tightly, wrap it around the frame and secure with three staples.
      • You need to fix the canvas from the middle to the edges. Don't start at the edges because otherwise the canvas will warp and sag.

   3. Lightly dampen the canvas if necessary. If you're stretching a raw canvas, you can spray it with water to make it stretch tighter when it dries. After securing the long sides of the canvas, lightly dampen the back of the canvas.

      Stretch the short sides. Grasp the loose side, pull the canvas tight, tuck it under the frame, and secure with two staples to the frame. Do the same with the second side.

      Stretch the edges. Go back to the first side you started stretching the canvas from and pin the edges. Pull the loose section of the canvas towards you, stretch it and clamp it with a staple. Work slowly, trying to pull on a small piece at a time. Continue pinning the edges, gradually moving from one section to another.

      • You can insert staples near the corners, and then between the center and the corner. Continue working until you have about 10 centimeters of loose canvas left from the corners.

   4. Bend and fasten the corners. Tuck in one corner, pull it tight so that there are no waves anywhere. Hold the canvas firmly. This is the final touch, and it is the most important. It is necessary to do everything so that the canvas is even and tightly stretched.

      • Sometimes it can be helpful to make a small cut diagonally so that the canvas stretches better and lays neatly at the corners. The corners should look even, so trim the canvas if necessary.

   5. Finish the job. Go through all the brackets with a hammer so that they fit snugly against the frame. There should be no sharp protruding edges anywhere. If it seems to you that you need to add a few more brackets, do it.

Master class by Natalia Derevianko with NM

IN Lately, with the development of technology, new materials and the speed of life, I took a fresh look at printing, and especially printing on canvas, because my originals are all made in oil on canvas. I really like the texture of the canvas, the volume of the stretcher, and a new plus, the picture on the stretcher can be hung on the wall without a frame. Today it is very popular. At one time she lived in Italy, as you know, their frames are excellent, but the prices are not small, so everything modern works hung in houses without frames - the so-called gallery stretch.

I want to tell and show the print on canvas and its design.

First of all, preparing a digital file for printing. I scan my work for the highest quality, sometimes even at 800 dpi. If it is a big work, I scan it in parts and assemble it into a single whole. After that, it is imperative to add, namely to finish (not stretch) the fields of 3 cm on each side, which will be an organic continuation of the picture. For what? These fields will go to the ends of the stretcher and at the same time, the picture itself will not be distorted - the cat's tail or the girl's hat will not be bent to the ends. Yes, it's tedious, but necessary. The best way to do this is in Photoshop with the Clone tool.

In my shop on YAM I sell digital images already with margins and the size you need. Since they weigh a lot, I send them through a file sharing service. This is very convenient for sending to Russia, because delivery services have restrictions on the size of paintings, and they will insure themselves by requiring permission to send it, and once you receive the digital file, you can safely go to the print studio.

With the finished digital file on a flash drive (resolution 300 dpi, RGB palette, natural size) I go to the print studio. In principle, if we have a good wide-format inkjet printer, we can print it at home :) But there was none, so I go to the studio and not to the nearest one, but the one that specializes in printing on canvas. Why? Because the price of those who do not specialize in this is five times higher, and secondly, they take the cheapest artificial canvas, well, they just don’t have enough experience ... I order a print on German cotton canvas, this is the same canvas that is used for painting oil and acrylic. Such a canvas can be of different widths: 61 cm, 91 cm, 107 cm, 127 cm, 152 cm. Therefore, of course, it is more profitable to order printing of several works at once. Here is the result after printing

After that, we cut, but do not cut off the extra fields, they will be needed to grab the canvas with your fingers and bend to the ends and the back side. We buy stretchers or order in a framing workshop. Today, in any hobby or art store, you can buy a ready-made stretcher or blanks for it, the range of sizes is huge.

We take a stapler and begin to pull. If a regular canvas is wetted before stretching, a printed canvas cannot be wetted. damage the image. We always pull starting from the middle, driving in the staples opposite each other

We reach the corners and carefully wrap the corners. This is how it is wrong to "overlap" the corners. So they look messy and resemble a candy box.

That's right. "Overlap" hides in the middle and clear corners are obtained

After that, with a soft brush, open with damar varnish for finishing work. There are other varnishes, the main thing is that they are for finishing, and not for painting.

Several works look very good, and it is not necessary to hang them in one line, you can experiment yourself :)

Stretcher- this is one of the constituent parts of the picture in general. Its purpose is to keep the canvas in a taut position so that the paint evenly lays down on the fibers.

If the stretcher is made well, then the quality of the picture will be higher.

Imagine that the stretcher is not made firmly, then some problems may arise, for example, the picture is skewed. This can spoil the whole impression even from a well-drawn picture, and it will look, at least, sloppy.

Let's see what are the main mistakes in the manufacture of subframes.

First, the connection of the corners. Many unscrupulous firms make fixed the junction of corners. Hence the problem arises - it is impossible to adjust the tension of the canvas. There is deformation and sagging. This canvas looks ugly.

Secondly, the subframe may not have a cross. This also contributes to sagging and even breaking through the canvas. Therefore, the cross is a must!

Subframe with cross (diagram)

Thirdly, there are no bevels on the inner sides of the slats, as a result of which the paint can crumble or “break”. Your painting will look old, worn out.

Types of stretchers

You need to understand that stretchers come in two types: modular and ready-made.

Finished subframe you can purchase at any art showroom or art store. But the modular one still needs to be assembled.

What is the difference?

Use the finished stretcher for small paintings measuring 30 by 40. But the modular one is better to use for large masterpieces. The most important plus of a modular subframe is that it can be stretched and, in case of sagging, wedges can be driven in to secure this structure. This operation is done with big pictures.

All about stretcher

First you need to determine where the "face" or front side of the subframe is located.

In order to determine this side, it is necessary to find a special recess. The side with the notch will be called the front. It is very convenient, as the canvas does not stick to it. Once you have determined the right side, you will be able to stretch the canvas properly. Then secure it with brackets.

What you need to stretch the canvas

But how to determine whether the canvas is stretched well?

The canvas should be stretched tight enough, without wrinkles or sagging.

If there are wrinkles and sagging, then you should re-stretch the canvas.

So, a few seckerts on stretching the canvas on a stretcher.

In this figure, the points are numbered in which sequence it is necessary to fix the brackets.

First, soften the corners at the stretcher. Otherwise, the stretcher may break through the corners of the canvas.

In order for the stretcher not to break through the canvas, we knock reverse side hammer on all 4 corners of the subframe

The second step is cutting the canvas. You should cut a few centimeters more around the entire perimeter to bend the ends.

So, you need to start pinning the canvas from the longer side. Find the middle and lead to the corner. Then secure with staples.

Ask someone close to help you - hold the canvas.

The fabric should be pulled tight, but at the same time, do not overtighten it, it may tear

Further according to the plan, point 3 - pull and hammer with staples.

Go to the short side of the canvas. Score 4 and 5 points. Stretch the canvas vertically.

But point 6 will not require any special efforts. Pull carefully and that's it.

Points 8 and 9 also do not require much effort, pull gently with your fingers.

11 and 12 follow.

Fasten the paper clips at a distance of 4-6 cm, fasten the corners with an overlap, with two staples

Now your canvas is ready! You can start priming.

In order to stretch the canvas, it will take a lot of effort and patience, but in the end you will get a high-quality field for your imagination to fly. Trust me, it's worth it.