Buying a canvas in a roll is a good opportunity to save on the cost of the product itself and on its shipment. You can purchase paintings from us both in a roll and on a stretcher. In the first case, even the shipment itself is much cheaper.
But the canvas just like that, without a stretcher, cannot be hung on the wall. It is the stretcher that holds the canvas in a well-taut state. In order for the canvas not to sag and the picture to retain its attractive appearance, we suggest using the following instructions.
How to stretch canvas on a stretcher
You will need the following materials:
- rail stretcher;
- crosses needed to eliminate distortions and deflections of the main bars, as well as increase the strength of the structure;
- stapler set.
You will also need the following tools:
- ordinary roulette;
- hammer (especially if you plan to use nails);
- wood stapler
- special tool for tensioning.
In general, there are two types of stretch and it depends on you which one you have to give preference to: gallery or classic. The first implies a frameless design, when the canvas is stretched so that the image still continues on the sides. It must be said that if it is fixed with reverse side stretcher and neatly wrapped in the corners, everything looks great even without a frame. Therefore, today this method is considered very stylish and modern. Such a design can be found quite often.
There are also classic look stretches, when the ends remain white, and the picture itself is being prepared for a baguette frame. Like everything classical, this method will always be popular. In any case, it is important that the frame is made exactly to the size of the canvas, and the timber is dry, free of cracks and knots. The fibers must be guided along.
Size matters
In modular varieties of the subframe, the slats are moved apart with the help of wedges, which are made from dry hardwood. There are main rails that have external chamfers, and their internal bevel is approximately five degrees, which protects the image from damage.
The stretchers are reinforced with crosses, and then, so that the canvas does not come into contact with them, the picture is fastened to the main rails at a distance of 5 mm from the plane of the canvas. The ratio of the thickness and width of the stretcher rails can be different - it depends on the size of the larger side of the picture.
Appeared almost 200 years ago standard sizes for paintings, thanks to which they can be classified. All formats are divided into three groups. For example, the most elongated format is called “marina”, the rectangle that approaches the square is called “figure”, and “landscape” is the middle view of the format.
There are also markings that depend on the length of the larger side. For example, sizes 16x54 are called 15F, sizes 65x50 are called 15P, and 65x46 are format numbered 15M. In total, there are 50 international sizes that belong to the listed standards. The standard row of paintings also corresponds to the standard dimensions of the stretchers.
Steps to success
The step-by-step instructions depend on which subframe is being used. If it is modular, then you will need to follow several steps described below.
- Measure the diagonals of the subframe. If they are the same, then you can fix the corners with a stapler, using two staples for each corner. In order for the staples to be driven in well, the stapler must be pressed well, and then driven in. It may be that the staple is not driven in - then you need to turn the round knob on top and thus adjust the stapler. Nails can be used instead of staples. Only they can not be hammered to the end. It is necessary to beat on the oblique to bend the hat to the side, and then the canvas will not fly off the nails in the future. To make everything symmetrical, after the first staple or nail, turn the canvas upside down, pull it a little and hammer it right in the middle of the opposite side.
- Position the drawing evenly on the stretcher so that the threads of the canvas are parallel to the edges of the stretcher.
- Using a special tool, secure the canvas with a stapler from all sides. There is also a faster option: wrap the stretcher with canvas and, pulling it quite tightly, drive in the bracket in the center.
- Secure the canvas with a stapler every two to three centimeters, moving from the center to the edge. It is necessary that at the same time the tool is pulled with the same force. After that, continue to stretch the canvas, gently tucking at the corners and shooting with a stapler.
- Pull out the brackets that hold the corners of the subframe together. Fold and staple the remaining excess canvas.
- Insert two wooden wedges into the slots at the corners of the subframe and knock them out with a hammer, but carefully.
If you are stretching the canvas on a blank stretcher, then you need to do everything as indicated in the first paragraphs for modular subframe. It is important that the canvas is stretched with a tool with the same force and quite strong. This is necessary, because if the canvas sags, you will have to drag it again. At the corners, they also tuck the canvas and shoot the stapler. Then the extra canvas, which you still need, is folded and fixed.
The subframe can be fixed in the frame with metal brackets 13 mm wide and 10 mm high. Corners can be mounted on a subframe or on a frame (depending on whose height is greater - a subframe or a frame). If the subframe protrudes above the level of the baguette, then D-shaped plates can be used to secure it. You can also use Z-shaped brackets (for example, for fastening double frames), which are attached to the baguette with screws.
You can watch the process of stretching a canvas on a stretcher in a gallery way in the following video:
Primary requirements
- Uniformity. The main requirement is not to warp the picture, so as not to distort its position. It is also necessary to distribute as evenly as possible in width and height;
- Baguette frame should not sit tight on the stretcher. Otherwise, due to changes in temperature and humidity, the size of the baguette will change, and it will begin to put pressure on the stretcher, which is why the canvas will then sag ugly.
It is possible in another way
The stretcher is a very important part of the picture, but self-stretching the canvas on the stretcher is an option for the handy and economical. If you do not want to waste time or you doubt your abilities, then you can buy a picture already in a stretcher. Masters will do it for you and the level of their professionalism will provide a stretch of the desired quality, and you can immediately hang the acquired painting on the wall.
To stretch the canvas on our stretcher, you will need a flat, clean surface, a pencil, a tape measure, a mallet, a hammer and a furniture stapler.
Before ordering a set of frame and stretcher for your canvas, it must be properly measured.
Canvas measurement
Lay the canvas on the table and measure the width and height of the image. This measurement should correspond to the front of the picture.
The rest of the canvas will go to the ends of the picture and to the inversion. This residue should be 3-4 cm on each side. 
If the remainder is less than 3 cm, then the canvas will have to be stretched with the staples fixed to the end of the stretcher, which will negatively affect the quality of the tension. How Alternative option it is worth considering reducing the size of the front of the picture with a partial entry of the image on the ends.
The resulting size of the front of the picture must be used as the internal size of the frame when ordering a set of a frame with a stretcher.
Subframe Assembly
Modular subframe kit includes perimeter rails, cross rails (if large sizes) and wedges. For assembly, you will also need a tape measure and a mallet.
Connect the rails of the subframe by inserting the tenon into the groove. Make sure that the side of the subframe is on one side of all the slats.
If there are transverse or longitudinal strips in the kit, install them until the last perimeter strip is fixed.
Press all joints as much as possible with a mallet, make sure that the planks are joined strictly perpendicular.
To check the correct assembly, measure the diagonal of the subframe with a tape measure. When properly assembled, they should be equal. If the diagonals are different, align them with a mallet.
When assembling and leveling the subframe, avoid strong impacts and do not use a hard hammer to avoid breaking the perimeter planks.
Canvas stretch
Lay the canvas face down on a clean, flat surface.
With help simple pencil mark on the back of the canvas the places where the corners of the front of the picture are.
Lay the stretcher on the canvas side down. In this case, the corners of the subframe must coincide with the pencil marks.
Lightly stretching the canvas, wrap it in the center of the side rail of the stretcher and nail it with a furniture stapler. First on one side, then on the opposite.
Check that the canvas has not moved out, if necessary, slightly tighten and fix the other 2 sides - with a cross.
Staple the canvas to the stretcher from the center to the corners around the entire perimeter of the stretcher. AT last turn carefully wrap and fix the corners.
Insert the wedges into the slots in the corners on the inside of the stretcher and bring the wedges to an acceptable tension by driving the wedges around with a hammer. If the subframe has longitudinal strips, wedges must also be inserted and driven in under them.
Measure the middle on the upper bar of the subframe and screw the gear suspension with self-tapping screws.
The picture is ready, you can put on the frame.
Today we will tell you something that will be interesting and useful for all art lovers to know about the components of a painting on canvas, which is made in oil, acrylic or tempera. I will also share information that is known mainly only by the artists themselves or restorers. So, the main parts of the picture are the canvas itself, on which the painting, the stretcher and the frame are applied.
It is important to know what is the difference between a frame and a subframe. The fact is that the frame plays a decorative function, so in principle, in some cases it may not be, in some special occasions the picture looks self-sufficient without a frame. The stretcher is the frame for stretching the canvas.
But what is this information for, you ask, and what to do with it? Since we are also for the practicality of knowledge, we come to the main thing.
The canvas must have sufficient tension. none good picture cannot be painted on sagging canvas. If, over time, the tension of the canvas has become too loose, or small wrinkles have appeared in the corners of the canvas, in some cases you can solve this problem yourself.
Having an idea of what a stretcher is, you can easily find the right element. Turning the back side of the picture towards you, you can determine what type of stretcher it is, it's very simple, there are only two of them: sliding and deaf. By the presence of grooves in the corners of the subframe, you can determine whether the subframe is moving apart or not.
As a rule, wedges can already be found in these grooves. If there are grooves, but no wedges, don't be discouraged, they can be purchased at any art store for little money.
Now you need to break the picture on the wedges, for this you just need to tap the end of the wedge with a hammer, and the stretcher will begin to move apart. Try to keep all sides split equally so that the tension of the canvas remains even, which will warn you in the future.
In addition, it should be noted. After reading this article and faced with the description of this problem, you begin to understand one important thing- the frame of the picture should not be flush with the dimensions of the stretcher, otherwise it will have nowhere to break it. Unfortunately, any picture painted on canvas will sooner or later live to this stage. Therefore, you should not buy a ready-made frame for a picture on canvas, you will have to order it again in a frame shop, with the clarification that the baguette size is not 40x50, but 40.6x50.6. Good employee when accepting an order, the framing workshop will add a sufficient number of millimeters, if you specify that the picture needs to be broken into wedges.
Thus, you can save time and money if you are sure that everything will work out for you, because in fact there is nothing complicated in this operation. But you need to understand that when the canvas already has serious deformations, then you need to contact the restorer.
In the event that tails appear on the surface of the picture that pleases your eye, it is better not to delay the solution of the issue - this can cause even greater complications. And if the stretcher turned out to be fixed - there is only one way out - to change the stretcher and drag the canvas, in which case you will need a specialist.
Probably, artists will understand me if I say that it is much more pleasant to paint the same sketch on canvas, which you yourself pulled on a stretcher, primed yourself for your specific tasks. After all, when you buy a ready-made primed canvas in a store and then stretch it onto the canvas, the tension is not always good. And the soil itself, unfortunately, often comes across poor quality. Once I bought such a canvas in the salon for a lot of money. And when I started to write, the paint layer began to wither. This is when the paint darkens, ceases to be saturated in color, and when it loses its gloss. The ideal canvas should be stretched so that a slight drum effect is created (this is after priming). If the canvas sags, then this is already bad. The soil must not crack. He must hold the paint so that it does not peel off over time. Well, the paint layer should not dry out, that is, the primer should not excessively absorb oil from the paint layer. All these tasks can be solved at home, with your own hands. Next, I will look at the first part of the tasks: how to properly stretch the canvas on the stretcher? (I wrote about subframe designs).
So, how to properly stretch the canvas on the stretcher? The canvas should be stretched with special tongs with wide "lips". But, I must say, I rarely use them. Basically, I do everything by hand. The canvas is attached to the stretcher with either small nails or a stapler. The caps may not hold the fabric, so the studs should not be driven all the way into the wood of the stretcher. Kill half. And bend the rest with a hammer.
You need to start from the middle of the subframe rail. Drive the first nail into the middle. Then, stretch the fabric with your fingers from this stud to the edge, to the corner of the stretcher - now drive in the second nail, next to the first. The distance between the nails should be an average of 5 cm. Next, drive in the third nail in the same way. When three nails are driven in, you can move on to the opposite side of the stretcher. To the side opposite the first. Here the first nail is also driven in in the middle. Just before you drive it in, you should try to stretch the fabric well. When the canvas is stretched and the nail is driven in, you can proceed to the neighboring carnations from this trio. But under them, the canvas must be pulled not only on itself, but also to the sides.
When we have stretched the canvas between the first pair of opposite sides of the stretcher, we can proceed to the remaining two. As a result, we get a cross-shaped tension of the fabric.
So we've made the base. Now we continue to stretch the canvas from each triple of nails to the corners of the stretcher. It is better to do this first on the left, then on the right. Left again, then right. This will result in a more even tension. The canvas, now, needs to be pulled not only towards itself, but also to the corners of the stretcher.
The meaning of the whole procedure lies in the uniform tension of the threads of the canvas. And that the tension was sufficient. After gluing and priming, the canvas should not sag.
So, if everything worked out and you have achieved your goals, then I can only congratulate you on the successful first experience of preparing a canvas for painting!
Alexey Epishin.
_______________________________________
Probably, the artists will understand me when I say that writing the same essay, much nicer on the canvas, which you yourself pulled on a stretcher, he primed for their specific tasks. After all, when you buy ready-primed canvas in the store and then pulls him onto the canvas, the tension is not that always good. Yes, and the ground is unfortunately often found across poor quality. Once I bought the canvas in the cabin for a lot of money. And when I began to write, the paint layer became dry up. This is when the paint darkens ceases to be saturated in color, and when it loses its luster. Perfect canvas to be stretched so as to create a small effect of the drum (this is after priming). If the canvas is slack, then it is bad. The soil should not crack. He should keep the paint so that it does not flake over time. Oh, and a layer of paint must not dry up, t. E. The soil should not unduly absorb the oil from the paint layer. All of these problems can be solved at home, with his own hands. Next, I will discuss the first part of the tasks: it is - how to pull the canvas on a frame?
So, how to stretch canvas on a frame? Pull the canvas should be special forceps with wide "lips." But I must say, I rarely use them. Basically, do everything by hand. Canvas is attached to the subframe or small nails or staples. The cap can not hold the fabric, so cloves should not be driven into wood stretcher completely. Drive half. And the rest of the bend hammer.
Should start from the middle rack of the subframe. Hammer the first nail in the middle. Then, pull the finger tissue from this stud to the edge, to the corner of the subframe - now the second drive in the nail, near the first one. The distance between nails should be an average of 5 cm. Further, the hammer in the same manner, the third nail. When the three nails hammered, you can move to the opposite side of the subframe. To the side opposite the first. There are also hammered the first nail in the middle. Just before he should try to drive well to pull the fabric. When the canvas is stretched and hammered a nail, you can begin to adjacent studs of the trio. But for them, you need to pull the canvas not only to themselves but also to the sides.
When we pulled the canvas between the first pair of opposite sides of the subframe, you can proceed to the remaining two. As a result, we get a cross-shaped tension fabric.
So, we made the foundation. Now continue to pull the canvas from each triple nails to the corners of the stretcher. Better to do it at first left, then right. Again the left, then right. So get a more even tension. Canvas, now need to pull not only to themselves but also to the corners of the stretcher.
The meaning of the whole procedure is uniform yarn tension of the canvas. And so the stress is sufficient. After sizing and priming the canvas should not sag.
So, if everything worked out and you have achieved the objectives, then I can only congratulate you on the successful first experience in training canvas for painting!
Canvas sagging is a fairly common occurrence. It can be caused by fluctuations in temperature and humidity conditions, defects in the stretcher and uneven tension of the canvas, as well as a long inclined, and even more so horizontal position of the picture. The cause of persistent sagging can be a dull connection of the corners of the stretcher, when there is no way to adjust the tension of the canvas.
Canvas sagging and creases not only change appearance paintings, but also affect the pictorial surface: gaps and cracks appear in the paint layer and ground; due to the uneven tension of the canvas, the bond between the primer and the canvas is weakened and there is a risk of shedding of the paint layer and primer.
Mechanical damage to the canvas
Paintings on canvas are most susceptible to mechanical damage. From pushes, rough touches, blows to the canvas or the paint layer, dents and dents remain in the picture, sometimes tearing of the canvas can form.
In most cases, these are various forms of elongation of individual sections of the canvas in the form of an extrusion of the front or reverse side or in the form of shirring at the edges. There are also holes, punctures, breakthroughs various shapes, cuts and loss of the canvas. Breakouts can be without edge separation, but in most cases the edges are pulled apart due to canvas tension. The threads at the edges of the breakthrough are mostly frayed and crumbled. Sometimes there are paintings, the edges of which are cut or bent in order to fit into an inappropriate frame. The mechanical damage to the canvas also includes wrinkling and breaking. Wrinkling occurs, as a rule, at the corners and edges. Breaks can be anywhere. Both those and others occur when the canvas is bent or hitched, not stretched on the stretcher. The imprint of the inner edges of the stretcher slats on the canvas is observed when the stretcher has no bevels, from the pressing of the picture to the stretcher when storage conditions are violated.
Seam deformation
On stitched canvases, the seam shrinks over time.
Damage to the paint layer of the painting
One of the common damage to the paint layer is a spherical and cobweb-like craquelure that forms at the site of impact. Scree and loss of the paint layer and primer appear along the edges of the breakthrough of the canvas and at the site of impact. A common damage to a painting is scratches on the paint layer.
