British youth subcultures. Relationship between fashion and subculture

03.03.2019

Young people have a particular relationship with the world. There are many groupings (subcultures) that have interests different from those of the mainstream culture. A particular cultural grouping is a way for young people to express their individuality.

By the mid-60s teenagers had begun to form distinct cultural groupings. Most young people in Britain follow some kind of youth culture: rockers, hackers, ravers, skinheads, hippies, goths, punks, bakers, emos, metalists, modes, hip-hop, football hooligans, gamers, anarchists, green, religious subcultures, etc. A subculture is a way of life. It isn't a fan club, it's a real life. It seems to them that the parents are always saying: No! That everything about them: their hair, their music, clothes, the way they talk, their dreams are considered bad by grown-ups. The young people are unsure of where they are going. Often young people do something not because they want to do it. They do things because everybody around does or because they think it's impolite to refuse.

Modern youth treats the world in a special way. There are many groups (subcultures) whose interests differ from mass culture. Certain cultural groups are a way for young people to express their individuality. In the mid-60s, teenagers began to form various cultural groups. Most young people in the UK belong to some youth culture: rockers, hackers, ravers, skinheads, hippies, goths, punks, bakers, emo, metalheads, mods, hip hop, football fans, gamers, anarchists, greens, religious subcultures , etc. Subcultures are a way of life. It's not a fan club, it's real life. It seems to them that parents always say: no! Everything that concerns them: their hair, their music, clothes, manner of speaking, their dreams, adults consider stupid. Young people don't know where they are going. Often young people do things not because they want to. They do it because everyone else is doing it or because they think it's not polite to say no.

Punk, also known as punk rock, is an aggressive form of rock music that coalesced into an international (though predominantly Anglo-American) movement in 1975-80. They have become more politicized militant groups, and they spread denial as an ideology and aesthetic approach, becoming a model of teenage rebellion and alienation.

The punks wanted to stand out from society as much as possible; therefore, a rough style prevailed in their wardrobe. Punks strive for freedom and anarchy. Most punks believe that government is chaos and can never be perfect. In the early 1980s, the heyday of punk rock ended. New subcultures began to form.

Punks in Russia.

The USSR media first learned about punks from the Western press, which was banned in the Soviet Union.

As a result, young people began to listen western music, watch western movies and imitate western clothing style. In the 1970s, Russian youth listened to classic rock, a group like the Beatles, or art rock. Most of them have never heard the word "punk". The first people who called themselves "punks" appeared in Leningrad at the end of 1979 and the beginning of 1980, they had a poor idea of ​​what punk meant.

Skinheads.

Skinheads appeared in the UK in the mid-1960s. One of the first names of the subculture was "Fashion", they cut their hair very short, explaining this by the fact that their hair interferes with them during fights. Working class kids called themselves "Skinheads" to separate themselves from other Mods. Huge groups hot-tempered youth gathered every Saturday at football stadiums to cheer on local teams. Often there were skirmishes and shootouts between fans of the teams, and these events gave rise to a period of legendary British "football violence". When it came night, « skinheads» put on most the best from what they had and went to the disco. Here they danced to the sound of the new music brought to England by Jamaican immigrants.

Skinheads in Russia.

Skinheads appeared in Russia in the early 90s. In 1992, there were about a dozen skinheads in Moscow. They behaved quietly, mostly engaged in narcissism and demonstrated themselves in the city center. The first skins were a pure product of teenage monkeying: they diligently imitated Western models.

The term "Emo" is used as one of the branches of the counterculture; it is an abbreviation of the word "emotional". Emo defines not only an attitude, but also a way that comes from emocore (emo music). Emocore is a combination of hardcore and punk that was very popular in Washington in the late 80s. Emo culture continued to develop between 1990 and 2000, and has reached a high level of popularity in the present.

Teenagers who listen to emocore are emokids. People around them see them as losers. They do not know how to control their emotions, they are quiet, shy, withdrawn and very sensitive. Emo usually like to express their feelings in poetry, write about their problems with depression, confusion and anger, because the world does not understand them. Themes, type: life- This pain, are common. Although life is already very difficult for them, they tend to hurt themselves. Emo subculture causes irreparable harm.

Emo culture in Russia.

Russian teenagers quickly adopted Western emo culture. Obviously, there are many more people who oppose this culture than there are fans. Some say that this is not natural for Russia. In their opinion, a copy taken from the West contradicts the true culture of the former Soviet Union. Others argue that representatives of this trend are distinguished by their young age, and such experiences are just typical for young failed and emotional teenagers, that is, you should not take such a culture seriously. Still others argue that the desire of emo-kids to be “themselves” and at the same time strictly follow instructions such as “what a real emo should look like” is more than paradoxical. Admirers, however, argue that in Russia there are several musical groups who founded the direction of emo. However, even Russian singers it occurred to me to release albums in the style of emo. If representatives show business they rely on a relatively new movement, which means it is becoming more and more popular in our country. On the Internet you can find a huge number of resources where they offer to order stripes, t-shirts, badges, bracelets, and even emo-style wall calendars. Time will show how this direction will take root in our country, or leave an imprint on the culture of Russia.

Hello.

Bikers on hefty Harleys are not the only subculture of the two-wheeler family. There are several more branches of evolution, some of which turned out to be dead ends. This article will focus on the Mods, a youth subculture of the 50s that originated in the UK and used scooters as a means of transportation and an object of worship.

Yeah, and I don't give a damn if anyone out there doesn't like scooters! Fashion was one of the most stylish subcultures and for its time was quite a powerful movement, quite competing with the subculture!

So let's go!

The term "Mode" originated from the word "modernism". The Mod subculture began in London in the 1950s and reached its peak by the mid-1960s. Mods were a youth subculture that made special demands on appearance. Initially, the preference was given to tailor-made suits, later - just suits of Italian and British brands.

From music, preference was given to American soul, SKA, beat and R&B. In addition to the fact that the representatives of this subculture were primarily associated with the consumption of huge amounts of amphetamines and noisy parties in London clubs, they rode scooters.

Story.

The mods were a youth subculture made up of Italian fashion-oriented members of the working class. Mods used to get together on scooters and hang out in clubs or cafes in London, because Pubs at that time closed around 11 pm and cafes were open until the morning and, in addition, there were jukeboxes.

The mods weren't cohesive, they didn't have a cohesive idea, there weren't clubs like the Outlaw motorcycle clubs, where the ideas of brotherhood and unity of the motorcycle club are promoted. They were just young people, gathering at night and hanging out until the morning. And, nevertheless, they left a mark in history with their bright appearance and peculiar tuning of their scooters.

By the summer of 1966, the Mod movement had already lost momentum. Not only did a stronger and more massive hippie movement appear, and some of the Mods got off amphetamines and switched to weed :), the fashion for clothes has also undergone significant changes. And in the late 60s, the most radical representatives of this subculture also spun off from the Mods, calling themselves skinheads .. Somehow even strange against the backdrop of general hippie sentiments ..

So everything fell apart. Then there were several revivals in the 1980s and 2000s, but these were already short-term phenomena, after all, it must be admitted that the Mod subculture was bent in the 60s.

Characteristic features of the Mod style.

Fashion.

The mods were formed from the first post-war generation, which had a small surplus of money. Deliberately elegant clothing - suits for men and short skirts for girls - is a natural reaction to the hardships that their parents had to endure.

Clubs and music.

Clubs: The Roaring Twenties, The Scene, La Discoth?que, The Flamingo and The Marquee in London.

Music: The Rolling Stones, the Yardbirds and The Kinks and of course The Who.

Scooters.

Well, finally we got to the scooters, because of which Mods ended up on this site.

Mods used Italian stamps scooters such as Vespa or Lambretta. Since the Mods consisted of working youth, for many, these scooters were the only way to escape from the gray everyday life.

Mod scooters have been subjected to heavy but not expensive external tuning. Their scooters were painted in two colors, and gum wrappers often stuck to them. The owner's name was traditionally written on windshields.

And, of course, most feature subculture has become an abundance of tourist trunks, arches and foglights on scooters.

Moty Moty (English Mods from Modernism, Modism) British youth subculture formed in the late 1950s. among the London petty bourgeoisie and peaked in the mid-1960s. A distinctive feature of the houses was their special attention to appearance (initially, fitted Italian suits were popular, then British brants), love of music (from jazz, rhythm and blues and soul to rock and roll and ska). Mods also became associated with the music of such British rock bands like the Small Faces, Kinks and The Who. Motes chose motor scooters as their means of transport, and collisions with rock-ceramics were not uncommon. Motes tended to meet in clubs and seaside resorts such as Brighton, where the infamous 1964 street clashes between rockers and mods took place. In the second half of the 60s. the movement of houses has declined and has been revived since then only sporadically.


Goths Goths are representatives of the gothic musical subculture that originated in the late 70s of the 20th century in the wake of post-punk. Distinctive features subculture is a predilection for gothic rock. Early Goths looked the same as punks, with the only difference that the dominant color of clothing and hair was black (with inserts of white, red, blue or purple) and silver jewelry. They wore torn clothes and even Iroquois. They also usually wore a lot of mesh (most often men on their arms) and had original style make-up, with very white faces and lots of black eyeliner (both men and women). The hair was usually twisted and combed. Only the desire to look more beautiful, more unusual prevails, hence the passion for all kinds of "gloomy" symbols.


Bikers Bikers (eng. biker, from bike motorbike motorbicycle "motorcycle") lovers and fans of motorcycles. Unlike ordinary motorcyclists, bikers have a motorcycle as part of their lifestyle. The biker movement originated in the United States when bikers were divided into several aggressive and warring factions. The most famous grouping is the Hells Angels (“Hell's Angels”). The stereotypical appearance of a biker: a bandana (a dark-colored head scarf tied in a pirate manner at the back of the head) or a knitted hat, a “leather jacket” (a leather jacket with a lock obliquely) or a leather motorcycle jacket (often a sleeveless denim or leather vest with "flowers" (symbols) of the motorcycle club), leather pants are put on over the motorcycle jacket. Bikers often let go of long hair, mustaches, beards, wear glasses to protect their eyes from the wind, and often ignore helmets. Bandana


Hippie (from the English hippy or hippie; from colloquial hip or hip "fashionable, stylish"; youth philosophy and subculture, popular in the United States in the 1960s and 1970s, which protested against conventional morality and the desire to return to natural purity through propaganda free love and pacifism. The most famous hippie slogan is “Make love, not war!”, which means “Make love, not war!”. Hippies often braided flowers into their hair, handed out flowers to passers-by and inserted them into the muzzles of policemen and soldiers, and used the slogan " flower power” (“strength”, or “power of flowers”), they began to be called “children of flowers”.


Ravers Ravers youth subculture permanent participants rave parties of electronic dance music, which gained mass fame in 1988 in the UK. The appearance of ravers is characterized by bright colors in clothes, plastic Sunglasses, short dyed hair in boys, colored strands long hair at the girls. Piercing is extremely popular, and the smiley symbol was used in the design.


Punk, punks, punk rockers (from the English punk rot, nonsense) is a youth musical subculture that arose in the second half of the 1970s in the USA and Great Britain, characteristic features which are a love for energetic and deliberately primitive rock music (punk rock), a critical attitude towards society and politics. Popular american band The Ramones are credited as the first band to play "bright unnatural colors combed and fixed with punk rock" music. The Sex Pistols were recognized as the first British punk band. Punk Rock Many punks, as a rule, have a colorful outrageous image. Many punks dye their hair in i or gel to make it stand up. In the 80s, the mohawk hairstyle became fashionable among punks.


Traditional skinhats are an apolitical subculture. Created your own style clothes, called "boots & braces" "boots and braces". Jeans, massive boots, which served as an indispensable argument in endless showdowns football fans and street fights.





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Informal youth movements in England

Introduction The purpose of this work is to analyze the origins and history of the development of some youth movements Great Britain in the second half of the 20th century.

Teddy boys British researchers as the first youth subcultural group called "teddy boys". Their main cultural niche was American rock and roll.

The appearance of "teddy" combined the features of an English gentleman and an American sharpie: a long drape jacket with a velvet collar, trousers with a pipe, micropore boots, a lace tie.

. "Teddies" were British troublemakers in cinemas and ballrooms, where they actively explored rock and roll.

Fashion The great maritime power was gradually forgetting the hardships of the Second World War, the economy was experiencing a second post-war boom, which, of course, led to a significant increase in jobs. And the new time inevitably had to lead to the appearance on the "informal stage" of a new hero, one who was more in line with the spirit of what was happening. These were the ones who closely followed the latest fashions in clothing, music, and so on; those who chose for themselves the "golden mean" between the informal world and the "prosperous" society, while at the same time not losing their individuality. They are called mods.

The main goal was just to live and get the most out of life, and live only as they saw fit.

The mods of the so-called first wave preferred to listen to American black jazz, blues and soul - then these were close styles, and often they were simply called soul. It is generally accepted that the main group of mods in the mid-60s was The Who, but it was their mods of the first wave that were implicitly accused, if not of profanity and cultural betrayal, then of complete inferiority.


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When England's booming post-war economy gave young people jobs, it created a class - a class of young people who made decent money. physical labor(these were factories, repair shops - in general, not the work of clerks). But everything is connected in the economy, and new enterprises have created many jobs for white-collar workers - clerks, managers, etc. The young people who came to these places were better educated and more "modern" - they listened to "progressive" music, wore fashionable clothes, ridden on scooters that protect them from dirt and do not leave oil stains on clothes, etc. and so on. They were mostly city dwellers, starting with teenagers. Rockers - everything remained in force - these guys were "simpler". Leather is protection from weather, falls and oil (when the first Japanese motorcycles were tested by English motorcycle journalists, one of them enthusiastically wrote that after a trip there was not a single oil stain on his trousers!). Music - rock and roll, rockabilly. Conversations are rude, education is low. In general, these were the heirs of the "teddy boys", while the mods can be called the heirs of the "dandy". Yes, and most rockers lived in the suburbs, small towns or villages.

All the prerequisites for skirmishes were at hand. AND main reason not class differences, but partly the cultural and aesthetic contradictions generated by them. This was not a class confrontation - it was a confrontation generated by the conflict between a new wave of young people with new values ​​and those who "rebelled" a few years earlier. But neither of them were "representatives of evil." They were simply separated by too many, and this could not but cause controversy. The rockers considered the Mods to be snobs and jerks. The Mods considered the Rockers to be outdated and grubby. In general, it was difficult to coexist peacefully. Thus was born (mainly thanks to the press and cinema, but more on that later) the legend of Mods vs. Rockers The Birth of Mods (by Modernists). It's hard to say when this confrontation began. Rockers, as a subculture, existed even before the early 60s. Mods were "spotted" in the press in 1962. This year, the UK economy experienced the second boom since the war. Naturally, this boom led to a cultural boom. New music, new ideas, a new "youthful" vehicle - Vespa or Lambretta - all this was the ideal stage for a new movement. And the Mods were on the crest of this wave.

So, what did these guys look like and how did they live. Main interests: Music: modern jazz, The Who, Small Faces, The Jam, The Yardbirds. Clothing: fashionable youth clothes (pseudo-military style, ponchos, short raincoats, tennis shirts, combat boots, moccasins - everything is bright and expensive). Shapeless army parka jackets were extremely popular. They perfectly protected from the weather and did not hesitate in choosing what to wear under them. Transport: Italian scooters, Vespa or Lambretta, sometimes hung with dozens of chrome-plated mirrors, arcs, antennas. High back seats, tires with white stripes. The mod scooter was usually polished to a mirror finish, but did not feature functional tuning.

Groups: Aces are the elite, most advanced, educated and undeniably recognized leaders of the Mauds movement. Tickets are mostly teenagers, very aggressive, amphetamine-fueled, not very imaginative and practically following in the footsteps of the Aces - as the mods themselves believe - a little closer to the working class. Meeting places: Aces are serious music clubs where interesting and new music was played above all. The Tickets have dance halls and nightclubs, mostly in East London. Behavior: The Mauds were younger and as a result more aggressive than the Rockers. Mods were mostly younger (under 20), while rockers in the 60s were mostly 21-25. Switchblades have been quite popular with mods. In addition, they sewed fishhooks on the lapels of their coats - in a fight, grabbing the lapels of the collar was dangerous. Most of brawls were initiated by Mauds, paradoxically. The rockers were more into how to "make the tone" (100 miles per hour, and only in the dark and in bad weather), modifying the motorcycle and racing from traffic light to traffic light between cafes. Almost all serious skirmishes took place "on the road". On Saturdays and the so-called "bank holiday" the Mods and Rockers went out (not too different from most of England) to the coast - to Marget, Brighton or Clacton. In those situations when such mass departures collided with each other, a fight arose. It is strange that there were no particularly large skirmishes. Ordinary residents of coastal cities were not involved in this and did not suffer in these skirmishes. Suffered mostly awnings and tables on the beaches.

England in the 60s spawned a lot of youth movements. Nevertheless, English society remained for the most part a society prone to traditionalism and some kind of "moral principles". It was this society that reacted extremely negatively to Mods and Rockers, not distinguishing or separating them. In these movements, the English inhabitants saw the danger of the destruction of the usual morality. The press played one of the decisive roles in this. Describing rockers (already habitually positioned as "bad guys") and mods, English newspapers created not just an image of an unusual social phenomenon, but the image of a threat to English morality and life principles. This, in turn, escalated negative attitudes from the townsfolk, the police and the government. May 17, 1964 was one of the "bank holidays". As always, many Englishmen decided to spend this day on the coast - the weather promised to be good. By a strange coincidence (it was by no means planned) at the same time a huge number of Mods and Rockers decided to spend this day in Brighton. Naturally, a collision was inevitable. According to eyewitness accounts and now elderly former mods and rockers, it was Mods who started everything. There were a lot of them in the city. At some point (no one can say what was the original reason), the mods, armed with stones from the beach, rushed to "hunt" the rockers. Two fairly large groups of mods and rockers (although it's fair to say there were MUCH more mods) clashed in a mass brawl on a beach in Brighton. Gradually riots and fights moved to the streets of Brighton. About 100 police officers hastily assembled were unable to stop the clashes. In the end, the warring parties were dispersed, more than 50 people were arrested. The trial of those arrested was a public process, carefully exaggerated by the press. However, no one was killed firearms was not used, and the scandal did not last long on the front pages of newspapers. But the label was stuck forever. And without division into rockers and mods.

The judge who led the trial called the rioters "Sawdust Caesars" - it's hard to say what this means for the British, but the meaning is clear. The term took root and firmly settled in the brains of an ordinary Englishman. This incident was and remains the most famous episode in the history of Mods and Rockers, and not because of the seriousness real events, but because of the press coverage and, above all, because of the film made in 1979 "Quadrophenia" (reminds me of the Hollister riots, doesn't it?). This film to this day is a cult for the British, and above all, for the people of Brighton. For tourists, there are tours of the history of the "battle" in Brighton and the filming locations of the film. Surprisingly, the much more serious incident, which took place on Easter Sunday of the same 1964 in Clacton, attracted less attention. This incident is considered the first officially recorded mass clash of Mods and Rockers. Two hefty groups that clashed "on the road" staged a massive brawl, using beach umbrellas as weapons. Many windows in nearby houses were damaged, and 97 people were arrested. Newspapers came out with headlines "Day of Terror by Scooter Group" (Daily Telegraph) and "Savages Invaded Coast - 97 Arrests" (Daily Mirror). But a film was not made about this story - and it has sunk into oblivion.

Rockers left first. It was a natural process - and the Mods didn't last long either. By 1966, their movement simply became uninteresting to the new youth - the hippies came. Mods are gone, leaving behind a tour of the Great Battle of Brighton, the movie Quadrophenia and the new term "moral panic". Actually, the term appeared only in 1987 - after the publication of research by the sociologist Cohen, who built his theory by observing the clashes of rockers and mods, and the film in 1979 - but the characters of both were still recognizable. Strange was the fate of those Mods who, in their own classification, stood at the bottom rung of the philosophy and aesthetics of the movement. They gradually transformed - Doctor Martins boots appeared, previously short-cropped hair began to be simply shaved off, elements of clothing from young people from the working classes were added to mod army jackets. They retained some of the basic attributes of mods - music, Levi's jeans, Fred Perry sportswear - but that's about all. This is how skinheads arose.

But to this day, older people - former Mods and the Rockers arrange "re-unions" in places where they spent their turbulent youth. The stronghold of the former Rockers was and remains the legendary "Ace Cafe" in London - this cafe has turned into a historical center. There you can not only drink coffee or beer in an authentic setting, but also buy classic rocker motorcycle clothing and accessories, exchange technical information or find the missing part to the lovingly restored Triumph or Norton. Regular official "re-unions" of rockers are also held there and their motocross starts there. For Mods, these places are concentrated by geographic location. In Brighton, you can go to the Jump the Gun store and buy authentic Mod clothes and accessories. Regular "re-unions" take place mainly in the same cafes where they once met, but all this has acquired the character of classic scooter clubs, and not a meeting of mods.
according to the site "Neoformal"



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