Wide application as a material for facing the surfaces of walls and floors in bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens and utility rooms. The use of tiles has a number of advantages over other types of coatings, including an attractive appearance and optimum performance.
For laying tiles, the following set of tools and equipment is required
1. A set of spatulas for applying cement mortar to large and small areas of the surface.
2. Means for the preparation of cement mortar. To obtain a homogeneous mixture, a special nozzle is used on an electric drill, or a small-sized mixer. In their absence, you can prepare the solution manually using a spatula.
3. A tile cutter that allows you to correctly divide the tiles into parts along the given dividing lines. In its absence, a glass cutter can be used, however, chips and irregularities may occur.
4. Nozzle on an electric drill for making large diameter holes.
5. Building level and plumb.
Surface preparation
After removing the old coating (wallpaper, tiles or drywall), the surface of the walls or floor is leveled. The surface must be degreased, and it is not necessary to provide a low roughness, as this may impair adhesion to the tile. When removing old tiles with a perforator, there is a danger of chipping sharp particles. Construction goggles and gloves are used to protect hands and face during preparatory work.
Marking and cutting
Depending on the size of the tile used, the surface is marked, which makes it possible to determine the number of tiles, as well as its shape and size. When marking, you need to take into account the size of the seam, which is 2-4 mm. In the absence of sufficient experience, cutting should be done with great care to reduce the number of scrap. To compensate for inaccuracies when cutting, tiles are purchased with a small margin.
Installation of "beacons"
To ensure even laying of tiles, the installation of "beacons" is used - individual tiles fixed on a temporary alabaster solution. Such tiles serve as a guide while laying the rest of the tile, after which they are carefully removed and installed in a constant solution.
Pinning and leveling
A solution is applied to the tile with a spatula, after which each tile is laid on the wall. The tile is carefully pressed against the surface and aligned with the building level. Smooth seams are provided by the use of plastic remote crosses, removed upon completion of work. After laying, the joints are covered with a layer of special paint, the color of which is selected depending on the pattern of the tile.
The minimum set of tools for laying ceramic tiles
After everything preparatory work before laying the tiles are carried out, and when it comes time to take up the laying of the tiles itself, any master will need the minimum necessary set of tools, among which the following are mandatory:
- tape measure, metal ruler;
- chisel (it is useful for removing some irregularities on the surface);
- mallet;
- simple pencil;
- a bucket (preferably several, because they will be needed to dilute glue and grout);
- notched trowel, the size of the teeth of which is chosen based on the characteristics of the tile;
- 100 mm spatula and 350 mm facade spatula;
- tile cutter: you will need it to cut individual pieces of tiles. However, if the material of the tiles is strong enough, then most likely you will have to use;
- plumb and level: they naturally serve to lay the tiles as evenly as possible. And since time does not stand still, special laser levels can be used, which can greatly simplify the whole process.
To grout tile joints you will need:
- rubber gloves;
- brush;
- rubber spatula;
- spatula for leveling seams;
- sponge for tiles;
- rag.
Tools for more complex tile work
- or: if the surface is painted, notches must be applied to it with the help of these tools;
- drill with a mixer for stirring the glue;
- container for stirring glue;
- a grinder or a hacksaw will be needed for samples on the tile;
- crowns on a drill made of durable material so that you can make holes on the tile in those places where it comes into contact with pipes or other elements;
- lighthouses;
- a file to remove sharp spots on the cut tile;
- wire cutters;
- scraper: they clean the tile joints from the solution;
- priming roller;
- masking tape;
- cardboard from which templates will be made;
- silicone (it's good if it has antifungal properties).
materials
- .
It is needed, of course, in order to fasten the surface and the tile together. Depending on which tile is used, what surface, what functions the room performs, and where the work is carried out, it can be used different type glue.
- Common before cement-sand mixture has, unfortunately, a lot of disadvantages: it does not provide reliability and durability, and the surface made in this way can be damaged over time by mechanical influences, as well as by the action of moisture.
- More stable and reliable specialized types of adhesive for laying ceramic tiles.
So, cement-polymer mixture makes it possible to firmly glue the tiles and perform grouting, it is used in dry rooms. - A in rooms where there is always high humidity or other damaging factors may appear, it is better to use polymer mixtures.
Thanks to special additives, specialized mixtures for laying ceramic tiles can have specific properties, for example, be able to fix tiles to difficult surfaces, be used in wet rooms, or vice versa - be heat resistant, etc.
- Mixtures for grouting. For preparation, mixtures are used, which include white cement, pigments and special polymer additives. The latter give the grout specific properties so that it does not crack, does not let moisture through, does not crack, etc.
- Protective equipment. They are usually needed for unpolished tiles to protect them from the influence of destructive factors. Such funds are applied to the tile, and they are quickly absorbed by its top layer;
- Primer necessary to improve the quality of the work carried out, since as a result a greater degree of adhesion of the surface and tiles can be obtained. Depending on what type of surface is being finished, a different type of primer is used. If the surface has the ability to absorb, and this, then the primer simply strengthens the base, and for non-absorbent surfaces, the primer is needed to increase adhesion.
- crosses for tiles. They are used to ensure that there is the same distance between all tiles. It is recommended, if the tile is not quite even, to use larger crosses so that unevenness in size is not so noticeable, however, it makes no sense to make a distance greater than 5 mm. For high-quality even tiles, it is best to choose crosses 3 mm in size. As a rule, two packs of such crosses should be enough for lining a medium bath or.
- corners. They allow you to neatly shape the edges of the tile and protect it from possible exposure to moisture, mold, etc.
- Tile Leveling System will be able to help lay it even for a person who is not quite experienced in this area, and the result will be the same as that received by professionals. Such a system helps to achieve even laying both on the floor and on the walls, prevents subsidence of individual plates, helps to make all the seams the same size, reduces work time, increasing labor productivity by several times.
Substrate requirements and temperature limits
On what substrates can ceramic tiles be laid?
On old tiles
- It is better not to put a new one on an old tile, but if such a need remains, then you need to carefully check whether this basis is suitable.
- Old tiles can be checked for strength of fastening to the wall, for example, by tapping, and you need to check each tile. If the sound from tapping is deaf, then everything is fine, but if it is sonorous, then there is a high probability that the newly glued tile will soon fall off along with the old one, so it is better to dismantle it immediately and fill the space with mortar.
- Before gluing, you need to thoroughly wash the old tile with soapy water, degrease and prime.
- Glue is best used for non-absorbent surfaces. But still, it is better not to take the unjustified risk of laying a new tile on an old tile.
On drywall (drywall)
If you need to lay tiles on this type of surface, you need to use. This is required so that the tiles, together with the cardboard, do not exfoliate from the plaster. Of course, drywall must be treated with a primer before finishing.
On plywood
It is not recommended to lay tiles on this type of surface, but if there is an urgent need for this, then before laying you need to cover the plywood with a sheet of drywall (for walls) or DSP (for the floor). It is worth noting that before that it is better to cover it with waterproof varnish or primer, or oil paint.
For paint
Remove paint before laying tiles, and this can be done using both a mechanical method and, or special paint destroyers. But if the paint is strong enough and durable, then you can stick the tile directly on it. But it is better to make notches on the wall at a distance of about two centimeters so that it becomes rougher and the adhesion to the tile improves.
On foam concrete
It is not recommended to lay tiles on such a base., as it can quickly collapse, nullifying all efforts. If the tile is laid on the facade, then it is better to use it as a base. If you still decide to take a chance, then such material must be well primed before laying and.
For plaster
Tiles can be glued onto old plaster only if if it is securely fastened to the wall. If the surface was leveled precisely with the help of plaster, then some time should pass before tiling - usually at least two weeks.
brick surface
Before gluing tiles to silicate or concrete bricks, it must be plastered. If the wall is lined with ceramic bricks, then it may be necessary to level the surface: beat off the protruding parts, and fill the depressions with mortar. It will be necessary to beat off some parts with a hammer, and then fill it with mortar if there are fragile parts, cracks, etc. in the masonry.
fresh ground
Laying tiles on surfaces that already have some kind of coating is, of course, more difficult than using a new base, but there are certain nuances here. For example, concrete surfaces must be aged for several months, and you can check the readiness in a simple way: you need to make a small scratch with a nail, and then see if the edges of the scratches crumble - if not, then the surface is completely ready for laying tiles.
Temperature limits for laying ceramic tiles
For such work, there optimal temperature range for laying ceramic tiles: so, the best result can be obtained if you work at a temperature of 18-24 degrees, but this does not mean that this cannot be done in other conditions, just the result will be the worse, the lower or higher the temperature from the “ideal” one. If it is too low, the glue will dry for a long time, and if it is high, the moisture will evaporate quickly, preventing the glue from seizing.
Therefore, it is important to create an optimal microclimate in the room where the work is carried out: in winter you need to heat it with different ways heating, and in the summer such work should be carried out in the morning or in the evening, when the temperature drops slightly. As for the use to create the desired temperature, this way of solving the problem should be abandoned due to excessive drying of the air in the room.
However, to ensure the optimum temperature for the process of laying ceramic tiles is one thing, but the further conditions in which the room will be operated is completely different. That's why for rooms with low temperatures(dachas and other unheated buildings) it is better to use frost-resistant tiles. It has low porosity and low water absorption. Therefore, in such rooms, tiles made of granite, porcelain stoneware and clinker tiles are ideal.
Surface preparation for laying ceramic tiles
The quality of the surface plays a decisive role in the tiling process. So, an uneven surface can lead to disastrous results, so the floor, and.
- used by some a method of comparing the surface by applying glue with a layer of different thickness gives poor results due to uneven drying.
- in the best way is up to the required level and plaster the walls so that they are exactly perpendicular to the floor.
- If the room is constantly high humidity, then it is necessary to carry out a series additional work, namely the waterproofing of the ceiling or walls so that moisture does not seep through them, as well as a primer for better adhesion.
Base coat for laying ceramic tiles
Applying a primer to an absorbent substrate
Before starting work on priming the surface, it is necessary to clean it of dust and dirt, remove peeling pieces of paint. For the priming itself, you will need a roller, a tray for it and a fly brush, as well as the primer itself.
Work begins with diluting the concentrate in the proportion indicated in the instructions, pouring it into the tray and applying it to the surface itself. Apply the primer carefully from top to bottom, being careful not to form a thick layer, as it can then simply peel off. After one layer has been applied and dried, you need to run your hand and check for soiling: if the hand is smeared, then it is necessary to cover the surface with another layer of primer.
Priming a non-absorbent base surface
Primer for non-absorbent surfaces is usually sold in branded pails, and it is important to mix it before use to prevent delamination of the constituent components. Apply the primer in the same way - gently from top to bottom. Do not forget to wash the brush well after the work done, otherwise you can say goodbye to it forever.
Marking the surface for laying ceramic tiles
Each tile has even, identical sides, which is what is required of the walls, they must also be even. If this is not the case, then it is better to arrange the tiles in such a way that the side where the distortion will be visible is located in the most inconspicuous corner or is hidden by pieces of furniture.
Before you start laying tiles, you need to determine what masonry will be used. So, you can choose “seam-to-seam” masonry, diagonal masonry and “in dressing” masonry. All of them take place depending on the preferences and type of tile.
Preparation of materials
This stage includes the preparation of both the adhesive and the tile itself.
- Glue must be prepared according to the instructions indicated on its packaging, as it is sometimes advised to dilute it in small portions due to its quick setting. In most cases, the glue is prepared in a bucket or basin, while stirring it with a drill with a special mixer attachment.
- tile it is advised to leave it for some time in the room (so that the material takes room temperature) where it will be laid, it is also recommended to moisten it, since after that it sets better with glue, but, in any case, wipe it before gluing with a damp cloth anyway have to.
- It will also need take care of wetting the spatula, so for this procedure you will need to prepare a separate container.
Laying ceramic tiles on the wall
The tiles on the wall are laid from the bottom up, skipping the space for laying one of the lowest rows. This is done in order to cut off pieces from the bottom row, which is not as noticeable as from the top, if the floor slope is detected, the uneven tiles of which will immediately catch your eye. As for where to start laying, there is an opinion that it is better put the first tile in the corner furthest from the door , because it is he who, first of all, catches the eye and must be executed perfectly. If this part is covered with curtains or furniture, then it is better to start from the angle that is most noticeable in the room . If the whole wall immediately catches your eye, and this happens in small rooms, then it is better to lay tiles start from the middle of the wall . This also applies to the case if an even number of tiles does not cover the entire intended area in a small room, then it is better to start from the middle, and lay pieces of tiles on the sides, in which case finished work will be more aesthetic and symmetrical. They also start from the middle if the tile has some kind of pattern.
- Glue application. All adhesives are applied in a similar way: the glue is applied with a smooth edge of a notched comb or a spatula either on a tile or on a wall - there is no difference, the main thing is to find the method that will be as convenient as possible. It is leveled with the notched side of the same comb to create uniform ridges so that the tile sticks and holds as well as possible, and the glue is evenly distributed. At the same time than larger size tiles, the more teeth the comb should have.
- gluing tiles, which should be accompanied by tapping with a fist or mallet. You can also use a spatula handle.
- Checking for flatness using a level.
Gluing the next tile, which is done in exactly the same way as the previous one, but you need to remember to install special crosses if gaps between the tiles are planned. - For a more even laying on each of the tiles, it is better install 8 crosses ;
- There is an opinion that it is possible to install one cross in the center of each side of the tile (this option is preferable to use if the tile has significant irregularities at the ends) so that the seams are as even as possible;
- Also possible option installation of crosses in the corners of the tiles .
- Combinations of the above options for installing crosses are also possible.
- Removing excess glue sponge.
- We finish the row with whole tiles, leaving room for a non-integer.
- Checking the top line of the row for horizontality.
- Adding incomplete tiles. When all the whole tiles are laid, measure the required size of the tile pieces and prepare them taking into account the gap, and then glue them.
- Installation of a special decorative corner on the extreme vertical and horizontal rows. You should not forget about this corner when gluing the tiles, as it is partially mounted under it and is held by both tiles and glue. No additional fasteners are required, but if you forget about it, then after all the tiles are laid, it will be impossible to attach it.
- Removing crosses, which can be carried out already an hour after laying the last part of the tile. Take them out carefully, prying with a knife. If the cross does not want to be removed, then it is cut and taken out in parts.
- After removing the crosses remove adhesive residue.
- Strip removal attached earlier, and gluing the bottom row. You can remove this bar depending on the setting time of the glue, but it is better to do it the next day.
- Seam grouting.
Laying ceramic tiles on the floor
It is better to lay tiles on the floor after the walls are finished, in particular tiled. This is due to the fact that freshly laid tiles on the floor must be protected in a certain way from damage, which can greatly hamper the process of laying tiles on the walls. Therefore, in order to maintain the ideal surface of the floor tiles, it is better to start laying them after the walls are ready.
As for the process of laying ceramic tiles on the floor, it is in many ways similar to the process described above. You should also start from the far corner, or from the center if the tile has a certain pattern.
Separately, it should be said about laying tiles on top of a warm floor. Whatever the underfloor heating system, you will need a screed based on a cement-sand mortar or using a gypsum fiber sheet. When the screed dries, you can proceed to the process itself.
Features of laying ceramic tiles in the bathroom
Before you start laying ceramic tiles in a damp place like a bath, you need to, since not all tiles will fit. It is necessary to pay attention to such an indicator as the moisture absorption class (from I to IV), which for such conditions should be either I or II. There is also a classification according to the method of production of tiles, and for bathrooms it is better to choose with the marking a and b, which means production by extrusion and pressing, respectively.
However, due to the high humidity in the bathroom, waterproofing work is required.
The order of the device of the correct waterproofing in the bathroom
Preparatory work:
- the base of the floor is cleaned of debris;
- the old screed is checked for a snug fit to the base of the floor. If voids are found during tapping, then it is better to dismantle the screed, and then cover the remaining surface with a primer;
- after the primer layer has dried, beacons are set around the perimeter, and then a new screed is prepared and pulled out;
- after about a week, a new screed needs to be primed, preferably in two layers;
- the waterproofing of the corners at the junction of the wall and the floor is carried out in one layer, and after it dries, this surface is covered with a self-adhesive waterproof tape.
Main stages of work:
- the entire surface is thoroughly coated with waterproofing, while the walls are captured to a height of about 30-50 cm. It is better to do this work in three layers, taking a break between applying each day and using a paint roller or a wide brush;
- when all layers of waterproofing have dried up, a primer can be applied, and one should be chosen that will have quartz sand in the composition to ensure better adhesion;
- beacons are set to a height of 1.5 cm and;
- after drying
Laying ceramic tiles on the wall must begin with the installation of lighthouse tiles in the upper lower corners of each wall.
These tiles must be placed strictly vertically, in the same plane with each other. The quality of the entire coverage will depend on how accurately these beacons are set.
Laying ceramic tiles with their own hands starts from the lower left corner. The tiles must be laid in such a way that the top row does not have to be cut,
To do this, we calculate in advance the number of rows that fit on the wall. If this number is not even, then a row with cut tiles is laid near the floor.
As for the vertical rows, in the case of non-multiplicity of rows, we cut and lay the tiles of the extreme right row as evenly as possible.
Calculate the area of the surface to be tiled by multiplying its width by its length. Then multiply the resulting number by the number of tiles laid per 1 m2 (this information is usually given on the packaging). And add another 5% for marriage.
For external corners, tiles with rounded or glazed edges are used. Make sure you buy enough tiles.
materials
- Tile
- Spirit level wooden lath 50×25 mm Nails and hammer Marking rod Plumb bob
- Moisture resistant glue
- Notched trowel for glue
- Crosses for tiles
- Forceps or pliers
- Corner Tape
- Vise and cutting tool
- File
- Mortar and spatula
- for solution
- Sponge
- Stick or pencil Sealant
Before laying tiles, we recommend dry laying on the floor. To do this, it is necessary to lay two perpendicular rows of tiles in their center of the room on a dry one.
In order to do the job as efficiently as possible, thin wooden planks or profiles are strengthened along the perimeter of the walls.
We nail the horizontal bar and check it with a level 
We nail the vertical bar
First, a horizontal bar is set, according to the level, at the bottom of the wall, so that the ceiling would fit between it
multiple rows. In order for the tile to hold firmly on the wall, before laying the tile on the wall, a notch is applied over the entire surface where the tile will be laid.
Attaching a profile horizontal line along the wall 
Cut off the remaining foam with a construction knife
Tiles must be soaked in water for 20 minutes before laying. Well, now you can set beacons.
In the lower left and upper corners, we lay one tile each, using the rule, so that the tiles are in the same plane. Exactly
we also set beacons in the lower and upper right corners. The beacons of the right and left corners should also be one plane.
Now we lay along the previously reinforced horizontal bar - the bottom row. We constantly make sure that each new tile ends up in the same
the same plane as the lighthouses. The adhesive is applied to the wall with a notched trowel at a distance of no more than one tile in height, and no more than three
tiles wide. Using a smaller spatula, glue is applied to the tile, then the tile is pressed against the wall and gently smoothed.
Putting glue on the wall 
Applying glue to tiles
The thickness of the adhesive layer will depend on the quality of the wall. The less even the walls in the room, the greater the consumption of glue.
Plastic dividing crosses 2-3 mm are installed between the tiles. Sometimes, instead of crosses, an auxiliary bar is used - a flexible cord.
We constantly make sure that the upper edges of the tiles form a straight line. The installation of the second row should also begin with the installation
tiles in the left and right corners.
Excess glue must be removed immediately, otherwise, later, when the glue has hardened, remove the glue from the front side.
tiles will be very problematic. Similarly, we lay all the upper rows of tiles to the ceiling. When the top row is laid, you can remove
bar and start laying the bottom rows. The bottom seam requires more close attention, since it is he who is most exposed to moisture.
Installing the tiles of the first horizontal row 
Laying the second row
In order to protect the coating from moisture, a sealant is applied to the bottom seam and carefully leveled.
Laying ceramic tiles from top to bottom
You need to understand that this species stacking is a more time-consuming process than the standard bottom-up. However, in some cases it is justified, for example, when laying an apron in the kitchen, when
you know exactly what level the shelves will be at.
Laying from top to bottom implies such laying of ceramic tiles on the wall, in which the top row is laid first, and then all the others. In this case, it is especially important to make a dry layout on the floor, as well as
choose the right glue, because if you make a mistake, the tiles will slide under their own weight. The heavier the tile you are using, the faster the adhesive should dry.
Laying tiles from top to bottom 
For a better grip, press the tile against the wall
The adhesive is applied to the wall in an even layer on the large area- one that you can tile with high quality during the drying of the glue.
It depends on many factors: the brand and speed of drying of the glue, your laying skills - the speed of work, the temperature and humidity of the air in the room.
The degree of drying of the glue should be constantly monitored. If you leaned your finger against the glue applied to the wall and it did not stick to your finger, the glue has dried up, its use is no longer recommended.
If the tiles will be laid on all walls, then you should first lay out the top row around the entire perimeter of the room. This is the most important part of the work top row, in this case
depends on the quality of the walls throughout the room. Next, we lay the remaining rows - constantly checking the horizontal level of the upper or lower edge of the laid tiles.
We check the horizontalness of the cladding using a level
In addition, tiles laid on one wall must be in the same plane - this parameter is checked by the rule. If some tile turned out to be higher than the plane, it is carefully knocked out with a rubber mallet, if lower,
it must be removed and a layer of glue added under it. If the tile still slips, use pieces of plasticine to fix the freshly laid tile before the glue hardens.
It is necessary to plan the laying of tiles in such a way that whole, and not cut tiles, adjoin the door and window openings, otherwise, an undesirable optical effect “mosaic” occurs
Surface cladding of non-standard configuration
When laying tiles on a wall, sometimes you have to face the need to clad complex non-standard surfaces. When performing this work, you should be extremely careful, laying no more than 4-6 tiles at a time, as well as carefully control all the main parameters.
Facing the fireplace, we use a special adhesive mixture 
If the pipes and plumbing can be removed, then bypassing them will not be difficult.
If you are faced with the task of facing the fireplace, you should also take into account the special temperature regime in which the tile will be used. This factor must also be taken into account when choosing tiles.
Seam rubbing
Until recently, it was believed that tiles should be laid in a joint - that is, without seams. However, this requires that the tile be perfect.
shape, which is far from always the case, otherwise there will be gaps between the tiles, which will affect both the aesthetic side and
practical - moisture will get into the cracks, and our coating will very soon begin to collapse. To avoid these problems, use
laying tiles in the seam. And the seam itself is then sealed with special grouts. Moreover, the grout does not have to be the same color.
just like tiles, you can sometimes achieve interesting optical effects using contrasting grouts. The grout should be rubbed into the seam with effort.
The drying time of the grout is 2-4 days. For bathrooms and showers, in rooms with high humidity, one grout to protect the coating from ingress
moisture inside is not enough.
We process the seam at the junction of the ceramic coating and the countertop with silicone sealant 
Apply the grout with a rubber-based spatula
The seams, among other things, must be treated with a sealant, which is applied using a special syringe.
The grout is applied using a special rubber spatula. It is not recommended to do this with your fingers or with a metal spatula. In the first
In the second case, you risk that the grout will corrode your fingers, in the second case, there is a risk of damaging the surface of the cladding with a metal spatula.
The grout is applied at an angle of 45 degrees. to the seam. After application, the seams are wiped with a damp sponge, removing excess grout, then the seams are profiled.
After the grout has completely dried, a matte coating may remain on the wall - it is removed with a damp cloth, in some cases
special detergents must be used. In order for the grout to serve you for a long time, it is necessary to make sure that the seams are dry and clean before applying.
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