Fashion- youth subculture, which is based on following fashion and music. The current originated in London, UK, in the late 1950s and peaked in the mid-1960s. This British subculture of the 1960s. replaced the Teddy Boys. If the latter symbolized an attempt to return to the values of the working guy, then the purpose of the "mods" was to create a dapper "hippie" image. Fashion arose on the basis of the "modernist" movement, copying the clothing style of young American blacks. The Mods came from families of professional, highly paid workers and employees. Focused on white-collar work (clerk in a bank, store, etc.). The motto of the mods is "Moderation and accuracy!" Narrow collar shirts, elegant jackets, pointed shoes, always white socks and neat short hairstyles. Speed was a metaphor for the lifestyle of mods: Italian scooters, amphetamines (mods are the first English subculture with the attributive use of psychostimulant drugs), dancing. Work for the mods did not matter, vanity is a positive quality.
The main types of mods: "Hard-mod" - in jeans, rough work boots (aggressive style, which later gave rise to the style of skinheads). "Scooterist" - the owners of scooters, in jeans and jackets with hoods. The main group - in suits, neat, in tight trousers, polished boots, accompanied by elegant, dignified girls with short haircuts.
The main word in the fashion lexicon is obsessed. This obsession was also in music - they listened to modern jazz, blues, soul, Jamaican music.
The image of "fashion" with its mass character prepared a short-term phenomenon, which in the mid-sixties would be called " swinging London. In 1963-65, the famous confrontation between rockers and mods began in the seaside cities of England, and up to a thousand people sometimes participated in mass brawls on both sides (the rockers came from poor strata of society, and listened to hard rhythm and blues, such as Rolling Stones").
In 1964 the "mod" movement split into "heavy mods" (work boots, short jeans, short hair, amphetamine aggressiveness) and stylistically sophisticated mods. By the end of the 60s, the “skinheads” subculture (skinheads) was formed from the “cool mods”. In 1968 the mod movement is dead.
rockers appeared in the mid-60s and reached their peak in the late 60s and early 70s, both in England and on the continent. Rockers - come predominantly from families of unskilled workers, without education and often from single-parent and "problem" families. Rocker clothes - leather jacket, worn jeans, rough big shoes, long hair combed back, sometimes tattoos. The jacket, as a rule, is decorated with badges and inscriptions. The main element of the rocker subculture is a motorcycle, which is also decorated with inscriptions, symbols and images. An important place in the subculture of rockers is occupied by rock music, listening to records is one of the main activities of rockers. One of the manifestations of this style is the use of nicknames, the popularity of "physical" ways of communication.
Rud boys, rudiz (two-tone)- a semi-criminal subculture of the African diaspora that arose in the slums of Jamaica. In the early 1960s The Rude Boys subculture was brought by a wave of immigration to the UK. Musical style - "reggae" (Bob Marley). Reggae is slowly becoming a pop culture phenomenon. Numerous African motifs became the distant basis of "reggae". The first peak in the popularity of Jamaican youth culture in the UK falls on 1969-71. "Rudiz" gave the "skinheads" not only music, but also the manner of dressing, and jargon. Distinctive features: marijuana smoking, reverence for Bob Marley, green-yellow-red color combination, dreadlocks.
Swinging London, psychedelics - 1966-1967 In the second half of the 1960s. a special psychedelic culture spread. The boom in the use of psychedelics (LSD, hallucinogens, drugs) occurred in the mid-60s. and is associated primarily with the activities of Timothy Leary, a professor of psychology at Harvard University, who widely used LSD in his work with students, as well as American writer Ken Kesey. Since 1966 first began to use the term "psychedelia" in relation to youth culture. And suddenly it became entrenched in the youth lexicon - the design of posters and records, strange clothes and music - everything became "psychedelic". Psychedelic culture is associated with psychedelic music. Includes both music created under the influence of psychedelics, and that to which listeners are predisposed under their influence. Psychedelic rock Psychedelic rock) is a musical genre that arose in the mid-60s. in Western Europe and in California (San Francisco and Los Angeles). characteristic feature psychedelic rock were the long solo parts of the leading instruments. Live performances by bands in this genre are usually accompanied by a vibrant visual show using lights, smoke, video installations and other effects (The Doors, The Jimi Hendrix Experience, Pink Floyd and Syd Barrett, Rolling Stones).
In the summer of 1964, the writer Ken Kesey, novelist "Flying over cuckoo's nest”, founds a commune in San Francisco "Merry Pranksters". They buy an old school bus, stuff it with records, movie cameras, and the then-legal hallucinogen LSD, which Kesey was exposed to in the mid-fifties (he offered himself to a psychiatric clinic as a "guinea pig" to test the effects of new hallucinogenic drugs), and set off. on a journey across America to "stop the end of the world". Thus began the Psychedelic Revolution.
The leader-theorist of psychedelists became Harvard professor Timothy Leary who founded with his adherents "League of Spiritual Discoveries"". Leary's ideas: Psychedelic drugs are the only means of enlightenment for Western man, and they completely ignored their negative impact on the unstable psyche, not to mention the social consequences of their use.
Hippie("fashionable, stylish") - a youth subculture popular in the USA, Great Britain in the 1960s and 1970s, which protested against generally accepted morality through the promotion of free love and pacifism (their main protest was directed against the Vietnam War).
In the 40s-50s of the 20th century in the United States, among the representatives of the “broken generation” (beatniks), there was a term hipsters, denoting jazz musicians, and then the bohemian counterculture that formed around them. The hippie culture of the 60s developed from the beat culture of the 50s in parallel with the development of rock and roll from jazz.
1. Passive resistance, non-violence.
2. Movement, hippies hitchhiked across Europe, Asia, Latin America. Internal travel is associated with taking drugs, meditation, oriental mysticism.
3. Expressiveness, creative search.
4. Hippies created many communes (the most famous commune is now in Denmark - Free City of Christiania).
5. Identification through age group. Young people see themselves as part of a generation, not an organization. Authorities and heroes are not recognized.
6. The desire for openness, for the comprehension of all aspects of feelings, motives and fantasies.
Since hippies often wove flowers into their hair, handed out flowers to passers-by and inserted them into the gun barrels of policemen and soldiers, and used the slogan " flower power"("strength", or "power of flowers"), they began to be called "children of flowers". In Britain, the Flower Generation was called the New Society.
In the 1970s, the hippie movement gradually began to lose popularity.
Skinheads -(English) skinheads, from skin- skin and head- head) - the name of the representatives of the youth subculture, formed in London in 1969. Skinheads copied the style of "heavy mods": heavy boots with high lacing, wide trousers with suspenders or cropped jeans, rough jackets, white T-shirts, shaved heads. Skinhead ideas of the 60s: protecting the traditions of the working community, fighting the Asian, the hippies. Skinheads were fans of "black music", reggae.
From 1965 to 1968 in the history of "skinheads" there is an "incubation" period. In 1968 skinheads were ardent football fans. In 1972 some skinheads loosened their hair, wore black windbreakers, wide-brimmed hats, and black umbrellas ("smoothed skinheads"). In 1978 split in the skinheads camp. Some skinheads began to join nationalist groups.
The main groups of skinheads:
Traditional skinheads ( Traditional Skinheads) - arose as a reaction to the emergence of political offshoots from the original subculture. Their goal is to follow the image of the first skinheads - “apoliticality” can be considered an unofficial slogan. Closely associated with reggae music.
Skinheads Against Racial Prejudice. Appeared in America in the 1980s as the opposite of the ultra-right skinheads, but without political overtones. "Squads of vengeance, justice and brotherhood."
"Red" and anarcho-skinheads, the ideas of socialism, communism, anarchism.
Bonheads ( Boneheads) - National Socialist skinheads, are the protégés of the British National Front Party. Propagated by right and far right Political Views and values. Appeared in 1982. In Great Britain. Then the symbolism of the Celtic Cross was borrowed for the first time and the image of the Aryan skinhead-crusader was formed - a street soldier of the "holy racial war" against numerous immigrants from third world countries, beggars, homeless people, drug addicts, left and left-wing radical youth.
Yippie- a political movement that arose in 1967 in the United States. Founder Abby Hoffman. They professed the ideas of anarchism, anti-capitalism. The Yippies didn't want to accept any authority, any rules - everyone was their own authority. The Yippies had no leaders. The ultimate goal of the yippies is to end the willlessness of the hippies and unite in the fight against the system. According to the leaders, the Yippies were a political movement of hippies.
30. Youth subculture of the USA, Great Britain in the 1970s. .
In the early 1970s transition period in the youth movement. Rock ceased to fulfill the main function of expressing alternativeness, the protest movement died out. There were rockers, skinheads, the hippie movement died out, the heyday of the Rudiz, the Rastafari.
In Britain arose progressive rock("Pink Floyd" and others) - here progressiveness was understood as the use of non-traditional musical forms in building compositions.
Funk - the direction of African-American pop music is closely related to the social status of the black population of the United States. Funk - independent direction within the framework of soul music, appears in 1967. Since the 1970s, soul and funk have developed quite independently in the USA, being opposed to white guitar rock music.
Distinctive feature- mobile bass lines, clear rhythm and short melodic patterns. Appeared in the black ghettos of America. Reasons for appearance: music (crime) was the only way to succeed for African Americans. He was played main performers - George Clinton, Sly Stone, "Fankadelik" and "Parliament") at first only in black clubs. The funk slogan is "One nation united in a single impulse." The most powerful and influential figure in funk music was James Brown.
glam- youth subculture of the 1970s. Glam rock is a genre of rock music that originated in the UK in the early 1970s. Its performers were characterized by a bright image, exotic costumes, abundant use of makeup ( David Bowie, Alice Cooper, Marc Bolan). They insisted that the improvement in appearance was part of the continuation of the "cultural revolution" of the sixties. The key role in this process was played by the most popular performers of the early seventies - Marc Bolan and David Bowie.The latter created the image of "Space Travelers". "Glam" and "funk" were similar in their rejection of "hippies" with their idea of "back to nature", to which they put forward their alternative - an appeal to the theme of "space".
Funk, glam: heyday in the mid-70s, disappearing due to the advent of punks.
Headbangers (metalheads) is a youth subculture that appeared in the 1970s. The "metal" style combined the features of the hippie movement (long hair, fringe, jeans), "psychedelics" (badges, colorful drawings) and "rocker" "leather" style.
Punks - subculture that emerged in 1976. in the UK, in the USA, whose characteristic feature is the love of fast and energetic rock music and freedom. Founders of the punk movement in the UK: Malcolm McLaren ( Sex Pistols and Vivian Westwood.
Members of this subculture violated social rules. The punk subculture is associated with the musical movement "punk rock". The musical origins of punk went back to the work of John Cage, minimalism, rock music New York Doles, Lou Reed. The punks represented the opposition to the hippies. Punks are a musical protest against the official rock music, which has departed from the harsh reality. Spokesperson for disillusioned youth. Musically, the most primitive form rock for the entire time of its existence, since attention is paid, first of all, to texts.
The main features of the punk subculture: apoliticality, protest against everything, outrageousness, deliberate rudeness, clothing style: black slanting leather jackets and jackets. Motto: “everyone who wants to play”, “there is no future”. The main style setting of “punks” is unlimited possibilities for self-expression . Punks in the UK were from the lower strata of society, a small part represented the professional working class. In New York, punk culture was an alternative middle-class culture. In the US, punk culture was not particularly popular (unlike the UK) due to the appeal of hippie ideas. The reasons for the appearance of punks in England: another conflict between generations, the realization of the failure of most of the ideas of the “hippies” of the sixties; rising unemployment and general economic stagnation. Since 1977 punk culture began to spread in the USA, Japan, Europe.
Young people have a particular relationship with the world. There are many groupings (subcultures) that have interests different from those of the mainstream culture. A particular cultural grouping is a way for young people to express their individuality.
By the mid-60s teenagers had begun to form distinct cultural groupings. Most young people in Britain follow some kind of youth culture: rockers, hackers, ravers, skinheads, hippies, goths, punks, bakers, emos, metalists, modes, hip-hop, football hooligans, gamers, anarchists, green, religious subcultures, etc. A subculture is a way of life. It isn't a fan club, it's a real life. It seems to them that the parents are always saying: No! That everything about them: their hair, their music, clothes, the way they talk, their dreams are considered bad by grown-ups. The young people are unsure of where they are going. Often young people do something not because they want to do it. They do things because everybody around does or because they think it's impolite to refuse.
Modern youth treats the world in a special way. There are many groups (subcultures) whose interests differ from mass culture. Certain cultural groups are a way for young people to express their individuality. In the mid-60s, teenagers began to form various cultural groups. Most young people in the UK belong to some youth culture: rockers, hackers, ravers, skinheads, hippies, goths, punks, bakers, emo, metalheads, mods, hip hop, football fans, gamers, anarchists, greens, religious subcultures , etc. Subcultures are a way of life. It's not a fan club, it's real life. It seems to them that parents always say: no! Everything that concerns them: their hair, their music, clothes, manner of speaking, their dreams, adults consider stupid. Young people don't know where they are going. Often young people do things not because they want to. They do it because everyone else is doing it or because they think it's not polite to say no.
Punk, also known as punk rock, is an aggressive form of rock music that coalesced into an international (though predominantly Anglo-American) movement in 1975-80. They have become more politicized militant groups, and they spread denial as an ideology and aesthetic approach, becoming a model of teenage rebellion and alienation.
The punks wanted to stand out from society as much as possible; therefore, a rough style prevailed in their wardrobe. Punks strive for freedom and anarchy. Most punks believe that government is chaos and can never be perfect. In the early 1980s, the heyday of punk rock ended. New subcultures began to form.
Punks in Russia.
The USSR media first learned about punks from the Western press, which was banned in the Soviet Union.
As a result, young people began to listen to Western music, watch Western films, and imitate Western clothing. In the 1970s, Russian youth listened to classic rock, a group like the Beatles, or art rock. Most of them have never heard the word "punk". The first people who called themselves "punks" appeared in Leningrad at the end of 1979 and the beginning of 1980, they had a poor idea of what punk meant.
Skinheads.
Skinheads appeared in the UK in the mid-1960s. One of the first names of the subculture was "Fashion", they cut their hair very short, explaining this by the fact that their hair interferes with them during fights. Working class kids called themselves "Skinheads" to separate themselves from other Mods. Huge groups of hot-tempered youth gathered every Saturday at football stadiums to cheer on local teams. Often there were skirmishes and shootouts between fans of the teams, and these events gave rise to a period of legendary British "football violence". When it came night, « skinheads» put on most the best from what they had and went to the disco. Here they danced to the sounds new music brought to England by Jamaican immigrants.
Skinheads in Russia.
Skinheads appeared in Russia in the early 90s. In 1992, there were about a dozen skinheads in Moscow. They behaved quietly, mostly engaged in narcissism and demonstrated themselves in the city center. The first skins were a pure product of teenage monkeying: they diligently imitated Western models.
The term "Emo" is used as one of the branches of the counterculture; it is an abbreviation of the word "emotional". Emo defines not only an attitude, but also a way that comes from emocore (emo music). Emocore is a combination of hardcore and punk that was very popular in Washington in the late 80s. Emo culture continued to develop between 1990 and 2000, and has reached a high level of popularity in the present.
Teenagers who listen to emocore are emokids. People around them see them as losers. They do not know how to control their emotions, they are quiet, shy, withdrawn and very sensitive. Emo usually like to express their feelings in poetry, write about their problems with depression, confusion and anger, because the world does not understand them. Themes, type: life- This pain, are common. Although life is already very difficult for them, they tend to hurt themselves. Emo subculture causes irreparable harm.
Emo culture in Russia.
Russian teenagers quickly adopted Western emo culture. Obviously, there are many more people who oppose this culture than there are fans. Some say that this is not natural for Russia. In their opinion, the copy taken from the West contradicts the true culture of the former Soviet Union. Others argue that representatives of this trend are distinguished by their young age, and such experiences are just typical for young failed and emotional teenagers, that is, you should not take such a culture seriously. Still others argue that the desire of emo-kids to be “themselves” and at the same time strictly follow instructions such as “what a real emo should look like” is more than paradoxical. Admirers, however, argue that in Russia there are several musical groups who founded the direction of emo. Nevertheless, even Russian singers came up with the idea of releasing albums in the emo style. If representatives show business they rely on a relatively new movement, which means it is becoming more and more popular in our country. On the Internet you can find a huge number of resources where they offer to order stripes, T-shirts, badges, bracelets, and even wall calendars emo style. Time will show how this direction will take root in our country, or leave an imprint on the culture of Russia.
Today we will remember the history of the youth subculture of mods. This subculture largely determined the spirit and style of the 1960s.
Mods (mod is short for "modernist") appeared in the East End - the east end of London, which was predominantly inhabited by representatives of the working class - in 1958. The decline of the subculture began in 1966. But in eight years they have become the most stylish youth subculture that designers still remember with longing.
History of the mod subculture
By 1956, the first generation of Britons was growing up who did not see the war (thanks to the baby boom that swept through all countries participating in the Second World War, by the end of the 1950s and beginning of the 1960s in Britain, almost 40% of the population were people under the age of 25 years). They lived a little better than their parents. Their education was slightly better than that of the elders due to the reforms carried out.
These young people saw the life of their parents as gray and boring, they did not want to live the same dull life as moms and dads with overwork and lack of fun, in gray clothes. Thus, a new protest generation was formed, which sharpened the problem of fathers and children.
In 1955, the song Rock Around The Clock was released. She attracted the attention of young people with brisk rhythms. Around the same time, a major exhibition of contemporary (modernist) art was held in Britain. Gaining popularity Italian neorealism and the French new wave in the cinema. A different style of behavior and way of life attracted young British from the working class, who worked as salesmen or clerks in offices, that is, they performed monotonous tasks.
The lifestyle of the mods of the late fifties - , - independent, free-spirited, perfectly dressed down to the smallest detail, regulars of jazz clubs, riding Italian motor scooters and often using amphetamines and other substances, was not yet well known to the general public, but more and more and more young people.
This was facilitated by the atmosphere of fashion-loved coffee bars, where more and more young people from the working environment began to appear, and in addition to jazz, rhythm and blues increasingly sounded. Captivated by the excitement of music and entertainment, young modernists, now representing a wide variety of backgrounds, developed and refined their sense of style.
Initially, fashion was exclusively a male subculture. At first they imitated teddy-boys, but they went further than them in the cult of clothes. In 1958 small group the guys began to walk around London in Italian silk suits, fitted to the figure (colors ranged from gray and black to red, brown or green).
Narrow jacket lapels, tight ties, pointed leather shoes (usually loafers, with slightly cropped trousers being preferred for their fashion statement), oxford shirts, wool or cashmere turtlenecks, polo shirts with horizontal stripes, knitted V-neck sweaters, a parka . The image was completed with black glasses and a black bowler hat.
It is clear that such a wardrobe was not cheap. Mods could deny themselves food, just to save money for the next purchase. But buying a thing was half the battle. The main thing was to bring it to an ideal state: no creases, no wrinkles, no spots.
The boys of this subculture spent hours ironing their clothes and polishing their shoes. And then the same amount of time was spent on the hairstyle: dilute sugar in hot water, cool and style the hair smoothly. Short haircut, hair to hair - finally, the mod went out to people to socialize. It is worth adding that the fashion of any sexual orientation did not hesitate to use decorative cosmetics to correct skin tone and even lipstick!
At least three days a week, a man who considered himself a mod spent in companies. The coffee bars were a gathering place: unlike British pubs, they didn't close at night and had jukeboxes. Passion for music - jazz, blues and R&B - was another passion of mods. In order to stay awake for several days in a row, the mods used various stimulants and drugs.
At first, mods dreamed of open convertibles, but the harsh reality forced them to switch to scooters. Just imagine - a stylishly dressed guy rushes past on a scooter, and even the hair on his head does not move. In 1960, most guys dreamed of being accepted by the mod subculture community.
Mod subculture and girls
Belatedly, the girls joined the mods. A-line short dresses, mini skirts, ballerinas, boyfriend clothes, short haircuts, discreet makeup - this is how it had to look to be accepted in fashion. Mary Quant became the head designer for mod girls.
As the number of mods increased, so did the attention to them from the music and fashion industry, as well as television. The development of a stylish subculture has had a profound impact on fashion around the world. "Swinging London", as journalists called this phenomenon, included a variety of manifestations of the cultural and sexual revolution of the sixties. In music, it was about the real "British Invasion": the whole world listened The Beatles, The Kinks, The Rolling Stones, The Who, The Small Faces and dozens of other English bands.
Gradually, the subculture began to acquire a commercial component and the style of its followers began to be dictated from outside. Fashion brands decided to cash in on the youth subculture and began to impose objects of desire in every way.
By 1966, the first mods had matured and started families, so they no longer had time to spend nights in coffee bars and discos. In addition, new and new subcultures began to appear, which offered a greater variety of style and ideological component.
Gradually, some fashions or switched to a different movement, and many simply began to lead ordinary life much like their parents' lives. Therefore, very soon only memories remained of the mods.
The study of subcultures, including youth ones, is a relatively new direction for humanities. Until the end of the 1980s, the attitude towards subculture as a social anomaly dominated, which should be studied only in order to find a way to correct it. It should not be forgotten that youth subcultures are a very dynamic phenomenon, and most studies quickly become outdated and lose their relevance. Therefore, knowledge about youth subcultures is necessary for society. The lack of such knowledge gives rise to misunderstanding and rejection between teenagers and young people, between teenagers and parents, between teenagers and teachers. Therefore, studies are needed that would shed light on the current state of youth subcultures. Behind last years the number of informal associations has tripled and is now steadily growing. One of the manifestations of the youth subculture is informal youth associations, a peculiar form of communication and life of a group of peers united by interests, values, sympathies. They exist in formal groups - class collectives, there are groups based on interpersonal relationships, and along with them outside the school. In my work, I identified 4 types of subcultures in my home school: goths, bikers, e-sportsmen, emo. They play an important role in the lives of young people, they satisfy informational, emotional and social needs: they provide an opportunity to learn what is not so easy to talk about with adults, provide psychological comfort, and teach them how to fulfill social roles. The less a student is involved in official structures, the more he aspires to "his company", which indicates the need for developing contacts, recognition of the value of his personality.
Novelty: Identification of youth subcultures in my school.
Working methods:
Youth subcultures are a way to show individuality, show yourself, expand your interest and appreciate the values of life.
I Concept of Subculture
The subculture of social groups should be understood as the main characteristics of social values, norms and preferences, which are reflected in the social position and in other forms of self-manifestation of the individual (a kind of internal culture of the individual, which makes up the macrocosm). According to the elements of the subculture - language, behavior (for example, the overwhelming cult of violence among rockers and skinheads), clothing, music, literature, cinema, etc. - that is, spiritual and material culture, one can judge the characteristic features of the collective consciousness and behavior social group in relation to the outside world. When studying subcultures, an important task is to analyze interests, preferences, orientations as steps in the formation of the values of a social group.
The subculture is traditionally characteristic of Western civilization and the UK is a prime example.
So, a subculture is a set of accumulated certain worldview values and orders of a group of people united by specific interests that determine their worldview. Subculture is a sovereign holistic entity, part public culture. From the point of view of cultural studies, a subculture is such associations of people that do not contradict values traditional culture, but complement it.
In my opinion, the components of a subculture and at the same time its features are: knowledge (a picture of the world in the narrow sense); values; style and way of life; social institutions as systems of norms; procedural knowledge (skills, abilities, methods of implementation, methods); needs and inclinations.
II Characteristic
The subculture may differ from the dominant culture in language, behavior, clothing, etc. The basis of the subculture may be the style of music, lifestyle, certain political views. Some subcultures are extreme in nature and demonstrate a protest against society or certain social phenomena. Some subcultures are closed in nature and tend to isolate their representatives from society. Sometimes subcultures develop and enter as elements into a single culture of society. Developed subcultures have their own periodicals, clubs, public organizations.
A narrower concept, close to subculture, but not replacing it, is fandom (English fandom - fanaticism) - a community of fans, as a rule, of a certain subject (writer, performer, style). A fandom may share certain cultural characteristics, such as party humor and slang, similar interests outside of the fandom, and its own publications and websites. However, most fandoms do not form subcultures, being focused only around the subject of their interest. Also, the concept of a hobby is sometimes confused with the concept of a subculture, a person’s passion for any occupation (see gamers, hackers, etc.). Communities of people with a common hobby can form a stable fandom, but at the same time have no signs of a subculture (common image, worldview, common tastes in many areas).
III Types of UK subcultures
In my work, I intend to give general review UK youth subcultures.
Subcultures based on fans of various genres of music:
Goths (subculture) - fans of gothic rock, gothic metal and darkwave
Junglelists - fans of jungle, drum and bass and its varieties
Indie - fans of india - rock
Metalheads - fans of heavy metal and its varieties
Punks are fans of punk rock and supporters of punk ideology
Rastafans are fans of reggae, as well as representatives of a religious movement
Rastafari
Rivetheads are fans of industrial music
Ravers are fans of rave, dance music and discos
Rappers are fans of rap and hip-hop
Traditional skinheads - lovers of ska and reggae
Emo - fans of emo and post-hardrock
Other subcultures
Subcultures based on literature, cinema, animation, games, etc.:
Otaku - fans of anime (Japanese animation)
Scumbags - using scumbag jargon
Historical reenactors
RPG Movement – Fans of Live RPGs
Therianthropes
Furries are fans of anthropomorphic animals
Image
Subcultures distinguished by style in clothes and behavior:
Visual kids
Cyber Goths
Teddy - fights
Military
Political and ideological
Subcultures distinguished by public beliefs:
RASH - skinheads
SHARP - skinheads
NS - skinheads
Informals
New Age
Straight Edgers
Hooligan
Bully subcultures. Their allocation is often disputed, and not everyone who is ranked among them themselves consider themselves to be among them:
Rude - fights
Ultras are highly organized, very active members of fan clubs.
Football hooligans
Subcultures shaped by hobbies
Bikers are motorcycle enthusiasts
Writers are fans of graffiti
Bikers (English biker, from bike ← motorbike ← motorbicycle "motorcycle") - lovers and fans of motorcycles. Unlike ordinary motorcyclists, bikers have a motorcycle as part of their lifestyle. It is also characteristic to unite with like-minded people on the basis of this way of life.
Fans of bicycles also call themselves bikers, but they call motorcyclists motobikers. However, traditionally the word "biker" is associated with motorbikers.
The biker movement originated in the United States, penetrated Europe and Russia, for some time it was part of a subculture when bikers were divided into several aggressive and warring groups. The most famous group is the Hells Angels ("Hell's Angels").
The term "indie" (English indie) is a short form of the English word "independent" (English independent, "independent"). It is usually used in relation to phenomena in modern culture that tend not to be part of the commercial mainstream (mass culture), not limited to high culture, but to be completely independent of the needs, ideas and expectations of consumers. Thus, there may be an emphasis on the free expression or artistic component of creativity and the prevention of becoming part of the entertainment and show business industry. Many indie artists operate without the support of a big label, a big movie studio, or other big budget sources. In Russian, the term "indie" is most often used in relation to music.
Punk, punks, punk rockers (English punk) - a youth subculture that emerged in the late 60s in the UK, USA, Canada and Australia, the characteristic features of which are love for punk rock music, a critical attitude towards society and politics. The name of the famous American artist Andy Warhol and the band Velvet Underground, which he produced, is closely associated with punk rock. Their lead singer, Lou Reed, is considered the founding father of alternative rock, a movement closely associated with punk rock.
The popular American band the Ramones is considered the first band to play "punk rock" music. The Sex Pistols are recognized as the first British punk band.
Metalheads (metalheads or metallers) are a youth subculture inspired by metal music that appeared in the 1980s.
The subculture is widespread in northern Europe, quite widely - in North America, there is a significant number of its representatives in South America, southern Europe and Japan. In the Middle East, with the exception of Israel and Turkey, metalworkers (like many other “informals”) are few and persecuted
Unlike the subcultures of goths and punks, the metal subculture is devoid of a pronounced ideology and is concentrated mainly around music. However, there are some features that are considered characteristic of the representatives of the subculture.
The texts of metal bands promote independence, self-reliance and self-confidence, the cult of a "strong personality". Attitudes towards religion vary, but traditionally it is believed that metalheads are not religious. Despite the abundance of religious and occult mysticism in the texts of metal bands, they usually do not have a missionary character and are perceived by fans as an allegory. Among black metal fans there are pagans and satanists, but this is uncharacteristic for fans of other varieties.
Rastafarians in the world are traditionally called followers of Rastafarianism. For the worldwide Rastafarian movement, see the article Rastafarianism.
At the same time, in the early 1990s, a special youth subculture was formed in the post-Soviet space, whose representatives also call themselves Rastas. At the same time, they are often not true adherents of the original religious and political doctrine of African supremacy, but identify themselves with this group primarily on the basis of the use of marijuana and hashish. For some, this is enough to consider themselves Rastafarians, some are closer to the Rastafarian concept - many listen to Bob Marley and reggae music in general, use the red-yellow-green color combination (for example, in clothes) for identification, some wear dreadlocks. However, few people sincerely defend the idea of the return of American blacks to Africa, observe the Rastafarian post "aytal", etc.
Be that as it may, in the Russian-speaking environment the word "rastaman" is firmly associated with this group (but not completely identical to it). The word can be used in a similar way in other languages to simply refer to marijuana lovers without religious overtones.
Rivethead, rayvethead, rivet, rivet (from the English. Rivethead - riveted head) - a youth subculture that formed in the late 80s / early 90s, in the USA, based on fans of industrial music.
Hip-hop (Eng. Hip-hop) is a youth subculture that appeared in the late 1970s among African Americans. It is characterized by its own music (also called hip-hop, rap), its own slang, its own hip-hop fashion, dance styles (breakdance, etc.), graphic art (graffiti) and its own cinema. By the early 1990s, hip-hop had become part of the youth culture in many parts of the world. This article discusses hip hop music and the general elements of the hip hop subculture. The first rap was read by V. R Woop Nesto.
Ravers are a youth subculture permanent participants raves - electronic dance music parties that gained mass fame in 1988 in the UK.
The appearance of ravers is characterized by bright colors in clothes, plastic Sunglasses, short dyed hair in boys, colored strands of long hair in girls. Piercing is extremely popular, and the smiley symbol was used in the design.
Traditional skinheads (eng. Traditional skinheads) - a subculture that arose as a reaction to a significant mutation of the original subculture. Closely related to reggae and ska dance music and contemporary Oi! music.
This subculture copies the style of the original culture of the late 1960s.
"Remember the Spirit of "69" is the "slogan" of the subculture. This is an expression of the ideals that traditional skinheads try to follow.
Emo (eng. emo: from emotional - emotional), Emo-kids (emo + eng. Kid - young man; child) - representatives of the youth subculture, formed on the basis of fans of the same name musical style. Depending on gender: emo-boy (eng. boy - boy, guy), emo-gel (eng. girl - girl, girl).
Emo image
The traditional emo hairstyle is oblique, torn bangs to the tip of the nose, covering one eye, and short hair sticking out in the back. different sides. Preference is given to hard straight black hair. Girls can have children's, funny hairstyles - two small ponytails, bright hair clips - hearts on the sides, bows. To create these hairstyles, emo spend cylinders of fixing hairspray.
Often emo kids pierce their ears or make tunnels. In addition, an emo kid's face can have piercings (for example, in the lips and left nostril, eyebrows, bridge of the nose) and anywhere else.
Both boys and girls can paint their lips to match their skin color, use a light foundation. Eyes are thickly lined with pencil or mascara, making them look like a bright spot on the face. Nails are covered with black varnish. Such makeup is done mainly for attending concerts and sessions.
Typical nicknames for emo on the Internet are very sharp, for example: broken_heart, raped_teddy_bear lonely_star, etc.
Emo wear pink and black with two-tone patterns and stylized badges. The main colors in the clothes are black and pink (magenta), although other shockingly bright colors are considered acceptable.
There are combinations in wide stripes. Often the clothes show the names of emo bands, funny drawings or broken hearts. There are features of the sports style of clothing for skateboarders and BMXers.
Color Meanings
Black Bright
Emo prevails. Reflects joyful moments. This is a challenge to the general gloominess,
His preference may be driven by depression, denial of emo's association with the goth subculture, and unhappiness and rejection. close to pop punk.
Naturism (lat. natura - nature) is a trend based on the maximum approximation of a person to nature to improve the body and spirit, naturists themselves position it as a philosophy of life in harmony with nature, characterized by the practice of joint nudity, which has the goal of developing self-respect , people and nature.
Naturism is often called nudism (lat. nudus - naked), since the most noticeable attribute of naturism is the lack of clothing. This term is often used in dictionaries and literature as a synonym for the concept of “naturism”, however, the participants of the movement themselves draw a line between them: there is no general philosophy that justifies nudity at the heart of the actions of nudists, most nudists are driven only by the feeling of comfort that appears when they are freed from clothing . The word "naturism" is included in the names of international organizations such as International Federation naturism (INF), operating under the auspices of
Teddy Boys are a youth subculture that existed in the 1950s. in the UK and experienced a revival several times in the 70s and 90s.
The term "teddy boy" appeared in 1953 as a designation for young working-class people who aspired to emulate the "golden youth" and dressed in the fashion of the era of Edward VII (hence - "Teddy").
The typical look of the teddy boy included "pipe trousers", a double-collar frock coat, and a Western-style bow tie. Teddy fights were different aggressive behavior, many of them were part of local hooligan groups. From music, initially preference was given to American blues and country, later rock and roll and skiffle, which absorbed the style of teddy fights.
By the beginning of the 60s. the subculture of teddy-boys began to disappear, they were replaced by fashion. However, in the mid 70s. in the UK, the teddy-boy subculture revived: musical bands appeared that played rockabilly, and in London there was the famous Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die store owned by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren. This was the last revival of the style, despite attempts to cultivate it in the early 90s. among Britpop fans.
Mods (eng. Mods from Modernism, Modism) is a British youth subculture that formed in the late 1950s. among the London petty bourgeoisie and peaked in the mid-1960s. Mods replaced teddy boys, and later the skinhead subculture was formed from among the most radical mods.
A distinctive feature of the mods was their special attention to appearance (initially, fitted Italian suits were popular, then British brands), love for music (from jazz, rhythm and blues and soul to rock and roll and ska). Mods also became associated with the music of such British rock bands as Small Faces, Kinks and The Who (based on the album of which the film "Quadrofenia" was released in 1979).
Motor scooters (especially the Italian Lambretta and Vespa models) were chosen as modes of transport, and collisions with rockers (owners of motorcycles) were not uncommon. Mods tended to meet in clubs and seaside resorts such as Brighton, where the infamous 1964 street clashes between rockers and mods took place.
In the second half of the 60s. the mod movement waned and has only sporadic revived since then. At the end of the 70s. mod style has been adopted by some punk bands (The Jam).
"Goths" (from the English goths - Goths, barbarians) - a quasi-religious youth subculture and a youth movement associated with it, characterized by a mystically gloomy, depressive perception and expression of attitudes towards their lives. The ideology of the "ready" movement is based on the idea of romanticizing death (dark romantic), pain, torment, on the confession of the aesthetics of death, decay. Hence the corresponding style of necromantic decadence in paraphernalia and accessories, as well as predominantly black clothing colors. Everything is cultivated that in any way relates to " dark side being", which is somehow connected with death, with fatalism.
The "ready" subculture is characterized by a general tendency towards theatricality, posturing and hypertrophied concern for a specific image, towards a perverted form of aestheticism, attention to the supernatural and eccentric. Goths like the feeling of their own depravity and originality. Therefore, they willingly borrow graveyard, vampire and hippie aesthetics.
The subculture of hackers arose, oddly enough, in the 50s in the United States, long before the invention of computers and networks, almost 20 years before the skinhead movement.
Unlike the skinhead movement, the hacker movement is more formalized, structured, financially secured and has a higher rate of use of the opportunities (integration) of both social movements and the entire capitalist and democratic system as a whole. The skinhead movement in this regard is less professional and less in demand by the elites of society, while as hackers, primarily the professional movement, is one of the main manifestations of the development of the global economy and transnational corporations. It can be said that hackers today are more part of globalism than part of the movement against it. The hacker movement is a significant force, thanks to scientifically - technical revolution in the field of computer systems and software.
Hackers represent the so-called "elite" of the technological revolution, and their existence raises important questions for us:
"Will the revolution ever eat its children?";
"Will computer terror begin?";
"Where will the technological revolution take us?";
The true story behind this group. Since the mid-1950s, graduating students on April Fool's Day (April 1) had to make an original joke. According to the tradition of the students of this university, the best and most original joke was the installation of one large and bulky object on the dome of the main academic building. Cabinets, a piano, and a huge ring from Tolkien's novel were installed there, once there was a police car! So an extraordinary joke was called a “hack”.
The word "hack" (hack) has several different meanings:
Make furniture with an ax;
Hoe, nag;
Exquisite trick of intellectuals;
An original move in programming or the use of software, as a result of which the computer allowed to perform operations that were not previously provided or considered impossible;
Non-standard action;
Creative overcoming of limitations.
Since the development of a new direction went with the active participation of graduates of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, the term "hack" and its constituents have forever associated themselves with the field of information technology.
Applied to information technology the term "hack" (hack) meant an original move in programming or the use of software, as a result of which the computer allowed to perform operations that were not previously provided or considered impossible. Those who could accomplish this task were called "hackers", and users who could not even master the prescribed actions and did not seek to explore the system were called "lamers" (from the English "lamer" - inferior, wretched, cripple) .
The most important feature of the subculture of hackers is the idea of their own chosenness, elitism. Many of them saw themselves as pioneers in creating a new society based on the values of global cyberspace.
The ideological and ethical requirements of hackers are based on the following principles:
Free and unlimited access to any information;
Complete democracy (denial of trust in any authority), decentralization as an absolute credo;
Denial of the possibility of using the criteria of age, education, national and race, social status in assessing a person, only the results of his activities are significant;
Belief in harmony, beauty, disinterestedness and unlimited possibilities of the new world;
The computer can change life for the better.
IV Studies of youth subcultures in Russia, Yakutia.
The study of youth subcultures has long been an important direction in the sociology of youth. From the 60s of the 20th century, leading sociologists from different countries of the world turned to this issue, while in domestic sociology, the analysis of youth subcultural phenomena until the end of the 1980s was carried out in a very narrow framework and was not any significant area of youth research. This was partly due to the fact that such phenomena, due to established scientific paradigms, were perceived as social pathology, and this kind of topic was mostly of a closed nature and its development could not be carried out at the free choice of one or another researcher or research team. Partly important is the fact that the subcultures characteristic of the West were poorly represented in the forms of social and cultural activity of the younger generation.
Since the late 1980s, the attention of researchers to the youth subcultures of Russia has become more noticeable - both here and abroad. In the 2000s, research activity in this direction intensified. Some authors seek to clarify the subcultural characteristics of youth within individual territories. In Russia, youth groups are formed as a desire to change attitudes (their own and society) and in their behavior reflect this craving for social renewal based on a philosophical understanding of social values and special image life. Subcultural phenomena in the Western sense are barely noticeable. Their prominence in society is largely the result of the "CNN effect": presented as particularly significant events and phenomena in the media.
Youth subcultures: Russian specificity. What predetermines the Russian specifics of subcultural formations in the youth environment, or rather, their poor development in the traditional Western sense? Two factors seem to play a major role here.
The first factor is the social and economic instability of Russian society over the past decade and a half and the impoverishment of society by the main part of the population. In 2000. According to the data of the State Statistics Committee of Russia, young people (16-30 years old) accounted for 21.2% of the population with cash incomes below the subsistence level, and in their age group the share of the poor was 27.9%. Among the unemployed, young people under the age of 29 at the same time amounted to 37.7%. For a significant part of young people, the problem of physical survival pushes into the background the needs realized in the forms of youth subcultures.
The second factor is the peculiarities of social mobility in Russian society. The channels of upward social mobility underwent fundamental changes in the 1991s, and young people got the opportunity to achieve a prestigious social position in a very short time. Initially (at the beginning of the decade), this led to the outflow of young people from the education system, especially higher and postgraduate ones: for quick success (understood as enrichment and achieved mainly in the field of trade and services), a high level of education was more of a hindrance than a help. But later, the craving for education as a guarantor of personal success in life increased again. In addition, there is a factor of sheltering young men from military service.
Types of subcultures of Yakutia: "weller", "skaters", "emo", "goth", "punks", "gamers", "cybersportsmen", "hackers".
Wellers: Bicycle Moto Extreme, or BMX for short, originated in California in the 60s of the last century. It would seem that the 60s, people began to fly into space. And then such a hobby - motocross - becomes a popular sport. The motocross epidemic is affecting everyone, young and old. Very soon, a simple solution was proposed: to copy everything from motocross - tracks, uniforms, competition rules and even the spirit of racing. The tracks became smaller, and the most ordinary bicycles began to be used instead of motorcycles. Very soon, BMX becomes super popular. It has become the most popular extreme sport in Russia, and in Yakutia as well. Already Yakut teenagers are gaining momentum and "unwind" a newfangled variety, and perhaps someday someone will become a famous world rider. Opinions of Yakutsk city riders: BMX improves mood, gives physical development, many new emotions, positive charge energy and makes you become diligent; Extreme, extreme, and only extreme; It's stylish, cool, cool and only real guys do BMX. This sport requires even more patience, perseverance, hard work and willpower. Athletes need to have a very strong character.
The specificity of subcultures in our school: e-sportsmen, bikers, goths, emo, identified on the example of subcultures in Great Britain.
Cybersportsmen are young men from 14 to 20 years old who are passionate about computer games.
Esports is a game at a professional level, i.e. for money. In 2001, Korea hosted the first world championship called "World Cyber Games". Cybersport is a young phenomenon. Millions of people are interested in sports. In terms of fame, athletes are not inferior to politicians, movie stars. How can a serious competitor appear in football, basketball, hockey, weightlifting or track and field athletics. Five years ago it would have sounded confidently "no". But in recent years there has been the new kind competitions, which has a chance to oust many rivals on Olympus. This is esports. He is rapidly gaining popularity.
Schoolchildren (youth) are sitting in the clubs, armed with mice and keyboards, a terrible din, through which cries of “cover me” are heard. There is a life of its own, based on the scenarios of computer games. Modern games: a lot of weapons, bulletproof vests, explosions, shooting.
In esports, you need to work with your brains, not like in chess. We need accuracy, let it be virtual. A reaction develops. Esports develops the ability to pre-calculate their actions, analyze, increases intuition and coordination, the ability to high concentration and adaptation in situations of mental stress.
In esports, there is excitement and there is money – just like in any sport.
There are 3 types of e-sports players in my school: the younger group is 7-8 graders, the middle group is 9-10 graders, the senior group is 11 graders. From my class, 5 boys - Stepanov Yura, Nikolaev Pronya, Sergeev Konon, Yakovlev Valera, Kharitonov Sasha - are engaged in e-sports. Always participate in various competitions.
Goths of our school are girls of 8-9 grades. They are interested in clothes, horror stories, horror movies, sit in a dark room and talk. Emo girls in grade 9 wear pink. Wellers - boys of 10-11 classes. They have a seasonal subculture. In spring and autumn they ride a motorcycle, do different tricks, are fond of hunting, paint their motorcycles, attach flags of Russia and Yakutia.
Survey results
In our school, a survey was conducted in order to find out the attitude of others to the manifestation of elements of Western subcultures.
The survey included 60 respondents aged 14 to 18 years. Questions were asked:
1. How do you feel about those guys who are passionate about emo culture?
2. Why do you think these guys are interested in emo culture?
3. What do you think they want to express with their emo culture?
4. Why do you think the Western subculture began to take root in the Eastern traditional societies?
Let's analyze the responses of the respondents in more detail:
1 question. Various responses were received, both positive and negative.
Positive answers (normally, positively, well, mutually, “people are like people”) were given by 36 students (60% of respondents).
Negative answers (negative, bad, hate, aggressive) were given by 10 students (17% of respondents).
The percentages of the results and the nature of the answers show that the people around them calmly and tolerantly perceive the carriers of subcultures.
2 question. Positive colors (they like, their right, their opinion, they want to stand out from the crowd, they like to be emotional, stylish and fashionable, they like the lifestyle. They want to be special, they want to show their individuality, they are interested, they want it so much, appearance, imitation of Western subculture, sensitive, vulnerable, emotional, they are comfortable, they are interested) - 25 students (42%)
Negative (they are tired of society, they have nothing to do or are attracted to this by friends, they are fools, suicidal, weak-willed, their life sucks, they want something new, brainless) - 9 (15%)
The percentages of the results and the nature of the answers confirm the conclusion on the first question.
3 question. The results and nature of the responses show that
1) Complete ignorance of the content of emo culture - 32%. This result could be interpreted as a positive trend of resistance to mass culture products, and that the identification of our teenagers is going well. It should also be noted that urban adolescents are more susceptible to the influence of subcultures, and rural adolescents, due to living in a different cultural environment (nature-friendly), are less exposed to cultural infusions from outside.
2) Others perceive the carriers of subcultures as exploiters of certain styles in clothing and models in behavior - 20%.
3) 13% of respondents associated their answers with the meaning of the root "emo" - emotional.
4 question. The majority (60%) of the respondents were unable to answer because they did not understand the question due to insufficient wording of the question. 8% of the respondents nevertheless pointed to the imitative nature of the formation of Western subcultures in our conditions.
Thus, the analysis of the results of the questionnaire shows that our society considers the manifestation of elements of Western-type subcultures as deviant behavior with a touch of some kind of pathology.
Conclusion
In this paper, the relevance, essence and formation of subcultures in the UK, Russia and Yakutia were considered. When explaining the causes and goals of the emergence of youth subculture, I have the following point of view. Young people in the difficult period of transition from childhood to adulthood face many difficult problems that they are not able to solve on their own. They need a peer group that faces the same problems, has the same values and ideals. This period of uncertainty arises because a person leaves childhood - a period of minimal responsibility, and enters adulthood - a period of maximum responsibility. To mitigate the transition from one extreme to another, a youth subculture is needed. The only thing worth considering is that subcultures are often influenced by commercial companies that dictate fashion and consumer behavior to them. Having studied the materials, I came to the following conclusions:
1. The youth subculture arose because, thanks to it, the younger generation satisfied certain vital needs.
2. Youth subculture is a system of values and norms of behavior, tastes, forms of communication that is different from the culture of adults and characterizes the life of young people, young people of about 14-16 years old.
3. The subculture of youth has received a noticeable development in our country due to a number of reasons: the extension of the terms of study, forced unemployment, acceleration, open access Internet.
4. There are the following amateur groups in our school: e-sportsmen, hackers, bikers, goths, emo. This includes students in grades 8-11.
5. In the context of globalization and interpenetration of cultures, it is important to preserve one's cultural identity.
In addition, she compiled a dictionary on subculture and a multimedia presentation for the lessons of an elective course for students in grades 8-11
A subculture is a set of values and orders of a group of people accumulated by a certain worldview, united by specific interests that determine their worldview.
Nihilism is the complete denial of everything, complete skepticism.
An individual is a separate living organism, an individual, a person as separate person in the environment of other people.
Ideology is a system of views and ideas, a worldview.
The Meikstream is mass culture.
Allegory is an allegory, an expression of something abstract, some kind of. thoughts, ideas in a concrete way.
Missionary - a person sent for religious propaganda of the average Christian population.
Occult - in mystical ideas: inexplicable, mysteriously associated with the so-called. "other world".
Doctrine is a doctrine, scientific or philosophical theory.
The religious background is real, but open cause something.
Mutation - excitement, bringing into a restless state.
Fictitious - false, imaginary, fictitious.
Absurd - meaningless, absurd.
Potential - the degree of power in some respect, the totality of the means necessary for something. (possibilities).
Status is a legal position or condition.
Intercultural communication - intercultural communication.
Postmodernism is a period of decadent trends.
Apogee - the highest degree, the flowering of something.
A social anomaly is a social deviation from the norm.
Dynamic - rich in action.
Cultivate - breed, grow, plant, put into use.
Fatalism is a mystical belief in an inevitable fate, in the fact that everything in the world is allegedly predetermined by a mysterious force, fate.
The indicator is a pointer.
Graffiti - ancient inscriptions of a domestic nature, drawings on the walls of buildings, on vessels, etc.
Civilization - step community development And material culture characteristic of a particular socio-political formation.
Western is an adventure cowboy film.
Aegis - under protection, patronage.
Satanists (Satan) - the devil, the personified evil principle in various mystical creeds.
In the early 60s, strangely dressed young people began to appear on the streets of London. They wore neat hair, bleached jeans with red suspenders, heavy red steel-toed boots, sometimes blue mohair suits, and blue-rimmed glasses. They drink dark beer or soft drinks and ride Vespa and Lambretta scooters. It's the mods, the controversial and undefined subculture of the '60s, the teenagers who are desperately trying to define themselves.
"Moderation and accuracy": the basics of style
Great Britain in the "colorful" 60s is a whole bouquet various subcultures. Not only mods walk the streets, but also rockers, psychedelists, hippies and rudiz. Everyone has different causes and different ideology. Fashion (from modern - modern) - children from families of professional workers; after the "economic boom" they had free money - and it was converted into style. From their predecessors, the "teddy-boys", mods inherited a manic interest in the smallest details of appearance. Depending on the width of the trousers, the distance between them and the boots was strictly regulated - half an inch or an inch. The socks had to be white, the suit had to be Italian, the shoes had to be Chelsea or loafers. Everything is thought out to the smallest detail, and any mistake makes you a laughingstock.
This obsession with mods was quickly noticed by clothing and music manufacturers. A culture that prided itself so much on its independence and individuality began to be supported from outside and soon faded away, and former mods dispersed into other subcultures. And someone even organized a new one - skinheads (who initially did not adhere to any racist views). "Mod - short word denoting fashion, beauty and stupidity. We all went through it,” Pete Townsen of The Who later said.
The main means of transportation is a moped. It is available around the clock (as opposed to public transport closed at night) and protects smart clothes from dirt. Long khaki parkas serve the same purpose.
« Absolute beginners": values and attitudes
Mods are hedonists, and their purpose in life is to entertain themselves in the most sophisticated and varied ways possible. They are reminiscent of the heroes of Wilde - perhaps that is why they are called "dandies of the 20th century." The fact that they followed fashion trends so closely (and often spent their last money on them) is the flip side of the main component of their worldview: extreme self-centeredness. “When everyone in England sang about free love, which was very ambiguous, fashions also turned out to be troublemakers - but for exactly the opposite reason. The feeling was that they were deeply indifferent to this problem. I think mods were by nature too self-absorbed to pair up,” wrote Kevin Pierce.
The bible of fashion is Absolute Beginners by Colin McKines, about young fashion photographer Colin and his love for fashion designer Crepe Sazette. Their story opens up a whole panorama of life at the turn of the fifties and sixties. “I’m afraid that this is the only book written really about the “fashions” of that time, and if they tell you that there are some more, don’t believe it,” says Oleg Mironov. In 1986, the book was made into a film of the same name, initially rejected by critics, but later became a cult classic thanks to the excellent soundtrack.
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But behind the external burning of life is hidden tragic search themselves - and in this way fashion is similar to teenagers of all eras. Chris Welch wrote in a 1969 Melody Marker article: "Mods 'do their own thing' in a helpless quest to find their own selves in a society where the only official alternative is to marry Hire Buy and end up paralyzed in front of the TV." .
Music and Clothes: The Legacy of the Mods
Fashion, with its cult of individuality and the image of the “tidy bully”, had a huge impact on the subsequent popular culture. This has mainly affected the fashion industry: they invented men's makeup, most of the existing street styles, it is thanks to them that unisex clothing exists. A lot of modern brands openly copy elements of the style of mods.
Frame from the movie "Quadrofenia": fashion was the first to say that men can also make up
Touched their influence and music. Fashion brought "black music" to Britain: jazz and soul. And it was thanks to mods that The Beatles appeared. Although Chris Welch was sure that the mods had no special musical preferences - "it is important that you can see how you stomp your boots to these rhythms", in fact, this is not the case. The Mods listened mostly to Americans playing blue beat, reggae, rocksteady and ska. Oleg Mironov says: “Everything was going great until, somewhere in 1962, big people from large companies they were not interested: what, in fact, do teenagers spend such crazy money on? It turned out that young people spend their hard-earned money on completely indecent things - products of American industry! The bosses decided that every effort should be made to redirect this cash flow into their own pockets, or at least return it to the bosom of mother Britain. A remarkable example of this is the release of the Beatles' first album, with which, as is commonly believed, the era of real "mods" ended and the era of the "British Invasion" began.
