We will talk about a device that is very simple to manufacture (even for a beginner amateur electronics engineer), but at the same time extremely interesting and useful - an electronic "music box". Also, as an example, I will show and tell about one of the possible incarnations and applications of this device - about the last gift made on its basis to my girlfriend.
History of creation
There will be many letters related to the matter rather indirectly, and if you want,It all started a long time ago, a few years ago, when I wanted to give a girl some interesting, original and memorable birthday present. And of course with your own hands. There was very little time left before the holiday, two days, during which it was necessary to come up with something and, in fact, implement it. The day was spent thinking - hundreds of different options were spinning in my head, from all kinds of LED “flashing lights” - hearts, to various electro-mechanical crafts. But all this was not right: either too simple and beaten, or vice versa, quite complicated (and there is absolutely no time left!). Suddenly, a simple, but wonderful, as it turned out later, idea came to my mind: why not make a musical postcard? And not simple, but with a "chip", with an original melody. Moreover, we had “our own song”, under which we met and which evoked all sorts of pleasant romantic memories and experiences in us.
So the very first version of the “music box” was born, the progenitor, so to speak. Very simple, assembled hastily hinged mounting from PIC12F675, piezodynamics, photodiode, a pair of resistors, a three-volt element 2016 and packed in a postcard drawn in Photoshop. As a result, this postcard was able, when opened (and the light hit the photodiode), to register the same melody with a rectangle. That's it, simple and uncomplicated.
But the idea turned out to be extremely successful, many times more than I expected. Later I made a few more simple postcards at the request of their friends, for their soul mates. And in each case, such a gift evoked a lot of emotions both in the recipients themselves and in their parents, girlfriends and acquaintances :)
Quite a lot of time passed, everything started spinning, the project was forgotten. But it so happened that I again remembered the music box. This time it was supposed to be a gift for March 8th. At that time, I actively studied Atmel microcontrollers, in particular, played with ATtiny45, and decided to improve the music module for this. Moreover, this time there was a lot of time. That's where it all started.
looking out different information on the Internet, I came across the site of Mr. Chan, widely known in narrow circles. More specifically, on one of his designs, a miniature synthesizer, just on my favorite MK :) Some time ago I almost finished a four-channel synthesizer on PIC18, but, alas, I destroyed the achievements in my heart (which I later regretted more than once). And Chan's design was quite self-sufficient and complete. It remained to add to it only the "trigger" and go!
I finished the code a little, and the trigger mechanism was ready. But then everything turned out to be somewhat less rosy. The main problem with the design was that it sounded too quiet. No matter how I tried, with the direct drive of the speaker from the MK pins, it turned out quietly and that's it! As a result, a strong-willed decision was made to add a power amplifier. The choice fell on the LM4900, which was then available in Terraelectronics. Again, I had to make some more changes to Mr. Chan's code in order for the synthesizer to work correctly with an external amplifier - to make the power saving leg control so that the amplifier does not eat the battery when idle and reconfigure the PWM to correctly output a signal from one pin. After these changes, the prototype worked just fine. Then I drew the first version of the board (in which, as it turned out later, a jamb crept in :) and assembled the music box in a human way. Further, everything is on the beaten path - a home-made postcard, installation of the module and donation-delivery.
Of course, this device was several heads higher than the previous ones - a very realistic sound of a "real" box and polyphony made themselves felt :) The gift, like in previous times, caused a sensation a long time ago. And I also collected about a dozen of these modules for my friends.
Now about the device itself
The current version of the module, the third in a row, contains a few more changes and one interesting innovation - light and music channel, to which you can connect, for example, an LED. But first things first.Let's start with the diagram, it's very simple:
Her heart is a microcontroller ATtiny45/85. He is engaged, in fact, in the synthesis of music, manages the light and music channel and the energy saving of the amplifier. The second most important element is the audio power amplifier TPA301D. Connected to amplifier speaker, which is outside of the module. There is also a transistor BC847, which controls the light and music channel and several passive elements - resistors and capacitors. It all feeds on 2-3 alkaline elements (for example, AAA) located in the outer battery pack(the most common, Chinese). As you can see, the circuit is really elementary.
The principle of operation of the circuit
Most of the time the device is in "sleep mode". MK falls asleep at the command of the firmware immediately after turning it on, previously “putting to sleep” the amplifier, setting it on its leg SHUTDOWN high level(by connecting a weak leg lift "PB0" to the "+" power supply inside the MK). MK wakes up on interruption from the foot "PB2/INT0". Initially, the leg is also pulled up to the “+” power supply inside the MK and it must be shorted to the ground.From the "PB1 / OC1A" leg of the MK, the audio PWM signal, in order to filter it from the carrier, passes through the simplest second-order RC filter ( R2-C3), which must be calculated (and in our case it can simply be “estimated”) for a cutoff frequency that is much lower (ten times) than the carrier frequency. And the filtered signal, through the blocking capacitor C2, is already fed to the input of the amplifier.
MK also controls an additional, light and music channel. For this, an npn transistor is used. Q1 in key mode, the base of which is connected to the leg of the MK PB4/OC1B through a current limiting resistor R1. There can also be a limiting resistor in the collector circuit ( R3) would not be redundant. The transistor is also driven by a PWM signal. Everything is done very simply - in the best traditions of "flashing" LEDs from the "arduino" :)
For nutrition, there is a decoupling tantalum ( C1), the simplest body kit of the amplifier, which acts as a decoupling ( C4), and adjusting the gain (volume), in general, is peeped in the datasheet for the amplifier. If necessary, the KU can be calculated quite accurately using the most common method for the op-amp, the ratio of the resistance of the input resistor R4 and resistor feedback R5, since it can be useful to adjust the volume for a particular speaker or design.
Printed circuit board
Simple to disgrace, drawn in DipTrace:
This is the third version, which takes into account all the previous shortcomings.
The board is designed for surface mounting and one-sided, which greatly simplifies the process of its home production. You can apply any method: laser ironing, photo method, or even draw tracks with a marker (for an amateur, of course).
All elements - 0805 (including "zero" jumpers), tantalum - A or B, a transistor in SOT23 and an MK with an amplifier in SO-8. All "peripheral" components - a battery pack, speaker, LEDs and a button (photoresistor, reed switch) are soldered to the corresponding "circles" on the board. That's all.
Software part
A bit about sound synthesis
You can read about the synthesis method used in the device in the original by Mr. Chan. You can also google "wavetable synthesis". If you do not speak the language, then in short, the memory of the MK stores a sound sample(a single sound), the so-called. "wave table", which in our simplest case is conditionally divided into two logical parts, which in general form "envelope" - attack, the beginning of each new sound, and "sustain", shutter speed, a fragment constantly looped throughout the sound of a note. Is there some more "decay", "tune-in", the part that sounds after the note is removed. We implemented it simply by gradually fading the sound of “sustain”. The MK has a timer that causes an interruption at a certain frequency, where, in accordance with the current position of the “envelope” and the pitch of the note, desired value from sample memory. Moreover, in this way it is possible to synthesize several channels (that is, notes) at once, everything depends only on the processing power of the MK and the sampling frequency (sound quality). Then these values are mixed and sent "to the output" (in our case - to the PWM control register). All this disgrace, as I mentioned above, is called “Wavetable synthesis” or “table-wave synthesis”.
The core of Mr. Chan's synthesis has remained virtually unchanged. I only slightly changed the PWM output method, due to the rejection of the “direct drive” of the speaker with the MK. Added a “trigger”, power saving control of the MK and amplifier, and also wrote the code for controlling the light and music channel, which works in the following way: on a special event from the score to right places“lights” the LED, and then smoothly “extinguishes” it. Well, I “ported” (strongly, of course, it is said) the code to the Studio, for convenience.
The code is written in AVR assembler and consists of several files: mbox.asm- in fact, the program itself; "notes_pitch.inc"- an indication of the correspondence of the mnemonic names of the notes used in the score, the coefficients of increment of the pointer position in the sample (that is, as a result, the pitch); wavetable.inc- sample data ("table") and decay curve "decay"; A score.inc, as you probably guessed by the name, contains the score performed work, "notes".
Initially, in "wavetable.inc" Chan himself "hammered" the sound of the box. But if necessary and desired, it can be changed to any other using an auxiliary script wav2asm.pl or just by hand.
The situation was more complicated with the score. Originally it was supposed to be written by hand, which will undoubtedly bring a lot of pleasure to human masochists, especially if the score is not at all simple.
For a person who is going to use his score and, presumably, on this occasion, at least somewhat familiar with music and musical notation, it would be easier to draw the score in any available notation editor and somehow use it. For this I wrote a special converter program, which accepts a midi file of format 0 as an input, and gives the finished file "score.inc" as an "output". It can also independently arrange LED ignition events for all notes found in the first channel, that is, if the melody is initially logically separated from the accompaniment and moved to the first channel of the MIDI file, then we will get a score that will light the LED in time with the melody, if we want and put a daw. In fact, it is perhaps one of the most beautiful options additional channel operation.
The program is also able to transpose the resulting score by one or two octaves up / down, which in certain cases can greatly facilitate the work of writing the score.
The interface of the program looks simple, understandable and unpretentious, and the Delphi sources are included in the kit:
By the way, as I was prompted at the time (for some reason I didn’t think about it at all), there are a lot of resources on the Internet where you can get ready-made midi with the desired melodies. They will only need to be slightly modified for use in my converter. And some may not even need to be modified.
What else might be needed?
Let's say you bought / got all the necessary components, made a board in one way or another, or, alternatively, simply soldered everything by surface mounting. What else will be needed? You will need a programmer. If you already have or are dealing with an AVR, then you most likely already have it. And so, suitable, for example, "USBasp" in hundreds of incarnations or any other. There is nothing supernatural here. The archive with everything-everything has an already compiled binary, which can be immediately uploaded to the controller and used if there are no intentions to edit and rebuild something.Application
And now, as promised, I will tell and show one of the hundreds of possible applications of the module, musical rose Kawasaki.Rose Kawasaki, one of the masterpieces of origami, is generally a separate big topic, which you can fully familiarize yourself with on the Internet.
Structurally, the thing itself is made of two parts:
First, rose, folded from a colored sheet of paper and glued to a twisted stalk with leaves (also folded from colored paper). A thick copper wire runs inside the stem (for strength) and a small neodymium magnet is hidden at the very bottom.
Second part, vase, cut and glued from thick white cardboard. Inside it is installed the module itself, a speaker (glued to a resonating volume filled with cotton wool), super-bright white wide-angle LEDs, matted with fine sandpaper and a battery pack fixed at the bottom of the vase for easy access to batteries. And, of course, the reed switch is a “trigger mechanism” that works in tandem with a magnet in the stem. It is installed in such a way that the module is activated when the rose is taken out of the vase.
Schematically, it looks like this:
Here are a couple photos of the prototype:
And video work. The composition “Tenderness” plays on the video, which I arranged for the box, and which is included in the archive as a source (typed in Sibelius) and a midi, as well as a finished generated score:
As usual, my eternal problem with normal sound in the video makes itself felt. A thousand apologies. If you are interested in listening to how the design sounds in normal quality, you can download
Instruction
The history of the music box dates back to 1796 with musical mechanism, first made by an unknown Genevan watchmaker. In just a couple of decades, she has come a long way from the first samples mounted in perfume bottles and watches, to original works art that still amaze our imagination with its beauty and unique sound.
Instruction
By today's standards, the principle of the music box is very simple. A special drive, using a clock spring mechanism, rotates the musical cylinder, in which rows of pins are mounted. When rotated, they engage with a musical comb and at the same time emit a certain melody. As the melody is played, the cylinder returns to its original position. Music boxes of later releases had several melodies in their "reserve". Given the modest possibilities of musical instruments, the playback time of a melody was limited, as a rule, to one minute.
The excerpt being performed was the most recognizable part of the famous piece of music. The music box has a close "" - a hurdy-gurdy. She is much older - she has already exceeded five centuries. Although, in its essence, the hurdy-gurdy is close to the organ, but the drive is very similar to the musical one, only here the handle was rotated by the organ-grinder himself, actuating the roller with pins - the control element of the air valves. It was on them that the flow of air into the pipes depended, where the melody arose. The organ grinder could, depending on the circumstances, stop the game at any time.
The situation was quite different. The wound clock mechanism had to “work out” to the end. Yes, it never occurred to anyone to interrupt the melody, which, moreover, sounded no more than a minute. Today you can only hear in or antique shop. By the way, one of the largest music boxes - more than 50 pieces - is located in State Hermitage in St. Petersburg. If one day you are lucky enough to hold this magical mechanism in your hands, which has become the prototype of ultra-modern players capable of storing thousands of melodies in your memory, wind it up and enjoy its simple and unique sound. You won't hear that anymore.
You can stop numerous by simply closing the lid of the box. Thus, you will press the lever hidden inside, and the music will freeze. If the cover or lever is out of order, then use a pin. Stick it into the hole from the lever, and it will stop. Not aesthetically pleasing, but practical.
Alternatively, you can attach a stud no larger than 2 mm to a free socket on the cover. It will work instead of a lever.
Sources:
- how to make a music box in 2019
Agree that broken dishes in the house are not so rare as it seems. Do not rush to throw away the fragments, with their help you can create an original mosaic box.
You will need
- - a small wooden box;
- - fragments of broken dishes;
- - white cement;
- - strong glue;
- - acrylic paint;
- - hammer;
- - brush.
Instruction
From large fragments it is necessary to make smaller ones. To do this, put them on a newspaper and cover with another sheet of newspaper on top, that is, the fragments will be between the layers of paper. Then gently start pounding on the pieces broken dishes.
After the fragments have become the desired size, you can begin to wrap them around the box. To do this, apply strong glue to each element and, accordingly, stick it on wooden surface. Lay out the fragments in such a way that you get something like a mosaic, that is, select the parts that fit together. If the fragments are of different thicknesses, then they need to be laid out on the same level due to the glue layer.
The remaining gaps between the fragments must be wiped with white cement. To do this, dilute it with water to the desired consistency, then begin to drive the cement into the seams with your finger so that there are no voids in them.
As soon as the cement seizes, you need to remove its excess from the fragments. Just wipe them off with a damp cloth.
Now it's the turn of the inside of the box. It can be decorated both with acrylic paint and sheathed with fabric.
Also, the surface of the craft can be decorated with other elements of broken dishes. For example, you can glue the handle of a broken cup in the center of the box - with its help you can open the craft. Mosaic box is ready!
Remember that the box must open freely, that is, all the fragments must be glued so as not to interfere with each other.
Every thing should have its place. Is not it? Jewelry box is considered to be a storehouse. I suggest you make it yourself.
You will need
- - plywood 5 mm thick;
- - thin rail;
- - plaster tiles;
- - metal handles;
- - a variety of plastic (plywood or plaster) parts;
- - twisted silk cord;
- - acrylic paint;
- - spray acrylic white paint;
- - glue gun;
- - sponge;
- - jigsaw;
- - sandpaper;
- - drill;
- - paper;
- - pencil.
Instruction
First of all, you need to decide on the size of the future crafts. Then make a template on paper and transfer it to plywood. Cut out all the details and process with sandpaper to remove bumps and roughness. Now you need to assemble the base of the box. To do this, glue all the parts with a glue gun.
On the underside of the cover of the craft, it is necessary to glue the slats. To do this, first mark it and only then attach the rails. They are needed so that the lid of the box does not move when it is closed.
On the upper side of the cover of the product, you need to glue a plaster tile with an ornament. You can also decorate the end and back walls of the box with all sorts of plastic or wooden parts.
On the side walls of the product, use a pencil to make 2 markings. According to the markings obtained, 2 holes should be drilled, with the help of which metal handles will be fixed.
Now the base of the box needs to be painted white. acrylic paint with a simple sponge. Just keep in mind that all decorative elements must be completely painted over. Also, do not forget to apply paint to the inner surface of the product.
It remains only to decorate the product with a twisted cord. It must be glued both around the entire perimeter of the lid and around the perimeter of the bottom of the craft. Unusual box in shabby style is ready!
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Create an amazing alarm box with your child or an entire treasure chest for boys. When you open such a box, the head of the clip will touch the paperclip. The electrical circuit will close and the bell will ring. Instead of a call, you can place a pleasant melody or song; girls will like this box more.
You will need
- - shoe box
- - thin cardboard
- - PVA glue
- - scotch
- - small plate
- - ball pen
- - two brass paper clips
- - steel paper clip
- - scissors
- - the wire
- - 4.5 V battery
- - electric bell
Instruction
Draw two circles on the plate on the cardboard. Their width should be the same as the width of the box. Cut out circles, fold in half and cut. You will need three semicircles.
Cut through the corners of one of the long sides of the shoebox lid. These will be the hinges on which the lid leans back. Pierce in one corner of the lid ballpoint pen hole. Insert a paper clip into it. The clamp should be near the fold of the "loops".
On the straight edges of the semicircles, bend the valves 1 cm wide. Glue them to the top of the lid. When the glue dries, reinforce the gluing with tape.
Cut out a piece of cardboard to lay over the half circles. Roll and unfold the cardboard so that it bends easily. Glue it with adhesive tape to both extreme semicircles.
Glue the back flap of the lid to the main box to make the lid open and close. When the glue dries, apply tape along the seam.
Cut a small window in the humpbacked cardboard lid so you can see the first clip. Just behind this clip, poke a hole in the loop and insert the second clip into it.
Slide a paper clip over the second clip so that the first clip touches the staple when the cover is opened. In the found position, secure the paperclip with tape.
Connect the wires to the clamp legs inside the box. Secure them with tape. Wind the end of one of the wires around the battery pole.
Attach the bell and connect one of its leads to the second wire. Connect the free output of the bell to the other pole of the battery. The bell should ring loudly.
For jewelry, this is one of the most important items that must be present in the arsenal of every woman who wants to keep her jewelry in order. To make a beautiful box with your own hands is within the power of everyone, you just need to arm yourself with imagination, as well as necessary tools and materials.
To make a jewelry box, you will need:
Box with hinged lid;
Round openwork napkin;
Round mirror;
Flexible curlers;
Wrapping paper (choose your own color);
Scissors;
Double sided tape;
Ruler;
Pencil;
PVA glue.
The first thing to do is decorate the box. To do this, it must be completely glued with double-sided tape.
The next step is to remove the protective layer from the adhesive tape and stick wrapping paper on it. Paper must be completely pasted over the entire box, leaving small gaps in its folds.
Now it is necessary to glue an openwork napkin on the inside of the lid exactly in the middle (its diameter should be greater than the diameter of the mirror), and stick a mirror on it. A napkin can be glued to PVA glue, but a mirror can be glued to double sided tape.
Next, you need to measure the length of the box and cut off flexible curlers of this length. Stick double-sided tape on the bottom of the box, then gently, firmly pressing it to the bottom of the box and to each other, glue the curlers. The jewelry box is ready, now you can put jewelry in it.
As for the outer part of the box, it looks quite simple, but this can be easily corrected by decorating the product with lace, beads, stones, artificial flowers or any other decorative elements. Here you can experiment.
A convenient place to store jewelry is a box that you can make with your own hands from improvised materials. In addition, such a box can always be designed so that it becomes the decor of your interior.
You will need
- Required material:
- - satin ribbon of any color 50 cm long and 5 cm wide.
- - cardboard bobbin of thread (adhesive tape, paper towels)
- - any decorative ribbon, flowers, beads, in a word, any decorative elements
- - 2 cardboard circles with a diameter equal to the base of the reel
Instruction
At satin ribbon singe the edges with a candle, lighter or matches so that it does not crumble. On one of the edges with glue we make a fold.
Glue the edge not very deep inside the cardboard bobbin.
In the music box, almost at the very bottom, moments of bygone days are quietly sleeping. The once popular accessory is now gathering dust in museums or on mezzanines filled with all sorts of rubbish. So it could have been further, if the designers had not decided to revive the music box, making it a real luxury item. Let's talk about the brightest specimens in our review.
Starting from November, all the screens of the country are filled with a cheerful Santa Claus with a bottle of Coca-Cola in his hands. From year to year, advertising practically does not change, therefore main character becomes almost native, and in the supermarket the hand itself reaches for a fizzy drink. Now he has migrated to the lid of the music box. Such Santa Claus, of course, will not bring Coca-Cola, but it will please you with music.
The main thing is a roof over your head. As it turned out, this truth is relevant not only for people, but also for music boxes.
Such music Box made to order. The designer not only chooses the melody that the client likes, but also creates figurines-portraits of the birthday or family members of the customer.
Antique stylized music box in the form of a medallion. Designers say that one such gift can win the heart of a girl.
If the capricious charmer remained indifferent to the singing heart, you can try to give her a music box in the form of a carousel. But first you should ask: does the girl love music or is the best gift for her in the jewelry department.
What progress has been made! Manufacturers came up with a music box for the Ipad. To activate it, you need to download it to your iPad special application and you can enjoy the tunes.
A music box created especially for the anniversary of the Beatles. However, the cover of the product speaks very eloquently about this. As for the repertoire of the box, it consists exclusively of the songs of the legendary band.
Kids will love this box for sure. Designers periodically change the main characters of the box. One thing remains unchanged - the nature of the product.
Music box for those who write music. Create melodies, fix them on a special card and enjoy the result.
Designers offer to create such a box with songs on their own: paint it in your favorite color, add all kinds of figures, inscriptions and give it as a gift. dear person. After all, the best gifts, as you know, are made by hand. If you can’t make a music box on your own, you can give it to a birthday person. I'm sure anyone will love this gift.
Our little princess, my beloved niece, is approaching her first birthday in her life. For her mom's (my little sister's) birthday in February, the kids smashed our baby's favorite musical toy, glass bowl with bears. And I did not let the musical mechanism be thrown out of it with the expectation that I would come up with something. And so I decided to make a box. Girls love boxes. I am a girl myself and I know :) While our Sonechka is little, mother will collect treasures beloved by girls in the form of beads, rings and bracelets.
One of my hobbies is boxes. self made, and for a long time that I have been doing this, I have already accumulated a lot of all sorts of materials.
So. We need a cookie or candy tin. You can also buy just a tin can. You can now find any cans in needlework stores. I found cans in a tea and coffee shop. Just banks. But this time I got a can of cookies from the Spartak confectionery factory. She is big. 22 cm in diameter and 7.5 cm in height.
Metal putty, acrylic primer, acrylic varnish, PVA glue, brushes, decoupage rice card with notes (rice card can be replaced with a decoupage napkin), scissors, musical mechanism. We will also need a glue gun and a glue stick. I love working with rice pads and cards. Under the influence of glue, they do not tear or deform. And they have a nice texture. Everything else will be selected in the course of work. Sometimes at the very beginning I do not know what I will get as a result. That is, usually at the very beginning there is some theory, but very often something changes in the process of work.
But in my bank there is one significant minus. The surface of the lid is not smooth. Cookies are squeezed out on it. Therefore, I took a car putty for metal and leveled the whole thing. There is no photo of the process, since there was no one to photograph, besides, the putty stinks extremely sharply and unpleasantly. When the putty has dried, it must be sanded. I deliberately did not sand to perfect evenness and smoothness.
Then we cover our entire future box with primer in one, and preferably in two layers. The second layer is applied only after the first layer has dried thoroughly. I think it is not necessary to explain what the soil is for.
So everything dried up. It's time for our napkin. First glue the lid. Remembering the lessons of labor in primary school. We cut out a circle with a diameter equal to the diameter of the top of the lid plus the height of the lid plus a couple of centimeters, just in case. We apply glue to the lid with a brush and carefully apply our circle to the top of the lid, level it so that there are no wrinkles. Very careful not to tear. Unfortunately, there is no photo of the process, since there was no one to photograph. We leveled it on the upper part, now we take the lid in our hands and carefully, wetting it in glue, glue the card to the side walls of the lid with a brush. In the same way, it pastes over the lower part of our future box. It's easier here. You need a strip of height from the locking rim to the bottom plus the height to the bottom. I have plus 5 mm to the main length. And a circle. We put our box on the map and outline it with a pencil. Let's dry.
I was dry for several hours. The adhesive must dry completely before applying the varnish. Otherwise, the varnish will stick to your hands. I bought wood varnish from a hardware store. Special varnishes for decoupage let me down more than once. They are expensive and stick to hands. finished product. So I went and bought varnish from a hardware store. I don't like gloss, so when choosing a varnish, I settled on a varnish that has a matte surface.
So, the next step is to apply varnish. Lacquer must be applied strictly according to the instructions. In two layers. Dry each layer thoroughly.
Here you go. Dried up. Now the fun begins. At the very beginning, I forgot to make a hole for the musical mechanism, so I had to make a hole after applying the varnish. Make the hole very carefully. I neglected safety precautions and stuck a screwdriver in my finger right into the wreath. Filling the hole with peroxide and barely stopping the blood, I proceeded to attach the musical mechanism. Due to the fact that I was slightly injured, I forgot to take a photo of this process. Then it turned out that the key that a familiar watchmaker picked up for me was very large and ugly. And then, with the help of my charm, I persuaded a familiar turner to make me a small key made of brass. Here he is handsome.
So. Now let's start working on the interior decoration. First of all, you need to finish the walls, the bottom and hide the mechanism. We take cardboard and cut out the details. Somewhere long ago I dug up a very cool pressed cardboard 3 mm thick. From it I cut out the details that I will hide the mechanism. The bottom and sidewall were cut out of cardboard with a density of 300 g / m2. We cut out the same details only with an allowance from velvet. Here are the details. We take glue stick and velvet. I really like to glue the fabric to the cardboard with a glue stick. I'm buying expensive pencils firms Kohinoor or Erich Krause. But now, as luck would have it, I did not find either one or the other and again bought the most expensive glue stick from a German manufacturer in a hardware store. I took it at my own peril and risk, but it justified itself. So, we apply glue to the cardboard and apply velvet. Let dry and glue the seam allowances. Something like this.
sidewall
This is a mechanism box.
bottom
Using a glue gun, we fix the velvet details inside the box. Here it is in finished form.
Next, we make a drawer for small things. Initially, I wanted to make a box that would be like a continuation of the box for the mechanism. But when I tried everything on, I realized that it was some kind of garbage and decided to make a drawer separately. I cut out a circle sector (cover) and a wall of thick cardboard. I pasted them together at a distance of 4 mm from each other so that the structure was bent. Trimmed the velvet around the edge. I sewed the edges of the velvet with a needle and thread. And secured everything inside the box. Everything seemed pale to me, and with the help of a glue gun I fixed the brown satin cord at the joints. Beads as a stopper so that the lid does not fall through.
Glue on both sides. Bends.
Sew the edges
I looked at the result and decided to add another branch. And to make it interesting (I'm making a box for a girl), instead of a lid, I made an imitation of a bag tightened with a satin cord. Everything is attached with a glue gun. Here you go. It seems to be nothing.
Here it is with the bag
Now you need to decorate the outer part of the box. I'm honest and long and in different places I was looking for the braid that I needed, but I did not find it. And so I bought what I had in order to do what would suit me. Organza ribbon, satin cord and velvet stripe. I took an organza ribbon and glued a velvet strip on it with an iron and glue tape. I glued all this beauty to the box with a glue gun. Something is missing. Pale. Then I glued the satin cord along the edge of the velvet ribbon with a glue gun. From velvet and organza ribbon, I made a bow and attached it next to the key. Thus, I hid the junction of the braid and hid the key a little.
To do this, you will need the following materials and tools
Saw in the form of a tape for the machine;
- Machine for grinding;
- Electric drill
- Cutter
- counterbore
- Music: (which you like).
Additional materials:
Toy wooden xylophone;
- The remains of a tree, preferably a fruit tree or walnut;
- Means for pasting of products from rubber and a tree;
- Threaded screws for fixing drywall;
- dowel rod;
- Corresponding to axes metal washers;
- Beeswax with orange oil.
Before drilling holes, you need to turn the surface of the cylinder into stave, to do this, draw one after the other lines around the entire circumference, and 4 lines perpendicularly. Install the drum in the frame to make it easier to determine the center axle.
Here you will need a sheet of plywood. Make gears with computer program, print, stick them to the wood material and cut them out with a saw on the machine. If the material is made of fibers of alternating directions, then this will provide good strength.
2. Make hammers
Hammers will also require wood material, the length of which should match the xylophone.
It is necessary to make guides. To do this, use the link under the photo to the Inkscape file, print it and stick it on the guides. For cams, take 3 mm birch plywood, for hammers and axles, cherry trimmings 1 cm wide.
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3. Other details
You'll need a base to support the instrument, and keep the notes clear with a hammer drum so they don't bounce. To drive, make a lever handle.
4. Ready musical
