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Subcultures. Fashion is a very British phenomenon.

Subcultures. Fashion is a very British phenomenon.

02.03.2019

Mots Mots (eng. Mods from Modernism, Modism) are a British youth subculture that formed in the late 1950s. among the London petty bourgeoisie and reached its peak in the mid-1960s. A distinctive feature of the houses was their special attention to appearance (initially, fitted Italian suits were popular, then British brants), and a love of music (from jazz, rhythm and blues and soul to rock and roll and ska). The music of such British rock groups as Small Faces, Kinks and The Who. Spendthrifts chose motor scooters as transport, and there were frequent collisions with rockers. The mots tended to meet in clubs and seaside resorts such as Brighton, where the infamous 1964 street clashes between rockers and mods took place. In the second half of the 60s. the house movement waned and has since revived only sporadically.

Goths Goths are representatives of the gothic musical subculture that emerged in the late 70s of the 20th century in the wake of post-punk. A distinctive feature of the subculture is a passion for gothic rock. Early Goths looked the same as punks, with the only difference being that the dominant color of clothing and hair was black (with accents of white, red, blue or purple) and silver jewelry. They wore torn clothes and even mohawks. They also usually wore a lot of netting (most often men on their arms) and had original style make-up, with very white faces and a lot of black eyeliner (for both men and women). Hair was usually curled and combed. The only thing that prevails is the desire to look more beautiful, more unusual, hence the fascination with all kinds of “dark” symbolism.

Bikers Bikers (English biker, from bike motorbike motorbicycle “motorcycle”) are lovers and admirers of motorcycles. Unlike ordinary motorcyclists, bikers have a motorcycle as part of their lifestyle. The biker movement originated in the United States when bikers were divided into several aggressive and warring factions. The most famous group is the Hells Angels. Stereotypical appearance biker: a bandana (a dark-colored headscarf tied in a pirate style at the back of the head) or a knitted hat, a “biker jacket” (a leather jacket with an oblique zipper) or a leather motorcycle jacket (often a sleeveless denim or leather vest with “flowers” (symbols) is worn over the motorcycle jacket ) motorcycle club), leather pants. Bikers often grow long hair, mustaches, beards, wear glasses to protect their eyes from the wind, and often ignore helmets. Bandana

Hippie (from English hippy or hippie; from colloquial hip or hip “fashionable, stylish”; youth philosophy and subculture, popular in the USA in the 1960s and 1970s, expressing protest against generally accepted morality and the desire to return to natural purity through propaganda free love and pacifism. The most famous hipie slogan is: “Make love, not war!”, which means “Make love, not war!” Hippies often wove flowers into their hair, gave flowers to passers-by and inserted them into the gun muzzles of policemen and soldiers, and also used the slogan “ Flower Power” (“strength”, or “power of flowers”), they began to be called “children of flowers”.

Ravers Ravers youth subculture permanent participants electronic dance music raves that gained widespread popularity in 1988 in the UK. The appearance of ravers is characterized by bright colors in clothes, plastic Sunglasses, short dyed hair for boys, colored strands of long hair for girls. Piercings are extremely popular, and the design used the “smiley face” symbol.

Punk, punks, punk rockers (from the English punk is rotten, nonsense) a youth musical subculture that emerged in the second half of the 1970s in the USA and Great Britain, characteristic features which is a love of energetic and deliberately primitive rock music (punk rock), a critical attitude towards society and politics. The popular American group Ramones is considered the first group to play music in the style of “bright unnatural colors, combed and fixed with varnish punk rock.” The Sex Pistols are recognized as the first British punk band. Punk rock Many punks, as a rule, have a colorful, shocking image. Many punks dye their hair with dye or gel to make it stand up. In the 80s, the mohawk hairstyle became fashionable among punks.

Traditional skinkhets are an apolitical subculture. They created their own style of clothing, called “boots & braces”. Jeans and massive boots, which served as an indispensable argument in the endless showdowns of football fans and street brawls.

Ministry of Education and Science of Ukraine
Sevastopol City Humanitarian University
Faculty of Philology

Individual work on the course “History of England”
on the topic: “Youth subculture in modern Britain”

Completed:

Checked:

Content:
1. Introduction...................... ......................... ..... .............................. ............... .......3 pages
2. The concept of youth subculture………………............. ........................5pp.
3. Reasons for the emergence of the subculture…………………………..……..... 6pp.
4. Classification of subcultures (table)…………..…………..……..…….. 8p.
5. The most common subcultures among modern British youth………………………………………………………………… ………….10pp.
6. Conclusion…………...…………………...... ........................... ... ...............25pp.
7. List of references……………………………...…….. 26 pages.

1. Introduction.
– Poets, artists, artists, in my opinion, are the real architects of change, and not scientists and political legislators who approve the change after it happens...
(c) William Burroughs
Scientists are trying to explain the reason for the emergence of subcultures by economic, social, cultural reasons, deducing this problem from the conflict between fathers and children, etc. The entire existing set of explanations once again suggests that this problem is quite complex, and ongoing research suggests that there is no clear answer, and is not expected in the near future.
The relevance of this topic is that subcultures appear constantly, and in the future we will encounter them, so as not to be afraid of this, we need to try to understand them.
A subculture is a community of people whose beliefs, views on life and behavior are different from the generally accepted ones or are simply hidden from the general public, which distinguishes them from the broader concept of the culture of which they are an offshoot. The youth subculture appeared in science in the mid-50s of the 20th century. Since traditional societies develop gradually, at a slow pace, relying mainly on the experience of older generations, the phenomenon of youth culture relates primarily to dynamic societies, and has been noticed in connection with “technogenic civilization”. If earlier culture was not so clearly divided into “adult” and “youth” (regardless of age, everyone sang the same songs, listened to the same music, danced the same dances, etc.), but now "fathers" and "children" have serious differences in value orientations, and in fashion, and in methods of communication, and even in lifestyle in general. As a specific phenomenon, youth culture also arises due to the fact that the physiological acceleration of young people is accompanied by a sharp increase in the duration of their socialization period (sometimes up to 30 years), which is caused by the need to increase time for education and professional training that meets the requirements of the era. Today, a young man early ceases to be a child (in terms of his psychophysiological development), but in terms of social status, he does not belong to the world of adults for a long time. “Youth” as a phenomenon and sociological category born of industrial society is characterized by psychological maturity in the absence of significant participation in adult institutions.
The emergence of youth culture is associated with the uncertainty of the social roles of young people and uncertainty about their own social status. In the ontogenetic aspect, the youth subculture is presented as a developmental phase that everyone must go through. Its essence is the search for social status. Through it, the young man “practices” in playing the roles that he will later have to play in the world of adults. The most accessible social platforms for specific youth activities are leisure, where you can show your own independence: the ability to make decisions and lead, organize and organize. Leisure is not only communication, but also a kind of social game; the lack of skills in such games in youth leads to the fact that a person considers himself free from obligations even in adulthood. In dynamic societies, the family partially or completely loses its function as an instance of socialization of the individual, since the pace of change in social life gives rise to a historical discrepancy between the older generation and the changing tasks of modern times. Upon entering adolescence, a young man turns away from his family and seeks those social connections, which should protect him from the still alien society. Between a lost family and a society that has not yet been found, the young man strives to join his own kind. The informal groups formed in this way provide the young person with a certain social status. The price for this is often the abandonment of individuality and complete submission to the norms, values and interests of the group. These informal groups produce their own subculture, which differs from the culture of adults. It is characterized by internal uniformity and external protest against generally accepted institutions. Due to the presence of their own culture, these groups are marginal in relation to society, and therefore always contain elements of social disorganization and potentially gravitate toward behavior deviating from generally accepted norms.
Quite often, everything is limited only by eccentric behavior and violation of the norms of generally accepted morality, interests around sex, “parties,” music and drugs. However, this same environment forms a countercultural value orientation, the highest principle of which is the principle of pleasure, enjoyment, which serves as the incentive and goal of all behavior. The entire value grid of the youth counterculture is associated with irrationalism, which is dictated by the recognition of what is actually human only in the natural, that is, the dissociation of the “human” from the “social” that arose as a result of the “monopoly of the head.” The consistent implementation of irrationalism defines hedonism as the leading value orientation of the youth counterculture. Hence the morality of permissiveness, which is the most important and organic element of the counterculture. Since the existence of the counterculture is concentrated on “today”, “now”, then hedonistic aspiration is a direct consequence of this.

2. The concept of youth subculture.
The concept of youth subcultures was first used by sociologists Western Europe and the USA only to the criminal environment. Gradually, the content of the concept expanded and began to be used in relation to the norms and values that determine the behavior of a certain social group of young people - thus, the concept of “subculture” was associated with the concept of “cultural paradigm”, that is, that set of ideas and rules that provides a kind of matrix of behavior in different situations. However, while studying this matrix, scientists came across facts that forced them to question some ideas that previously seemed self-evident. For example, the English scholar Grant McCracken, in his widely acclaimed book Plenitude: Culture by Commotion, describes his conversations with various groups of teenagers (goths, punks and skaters). The researcher discovered that differences in clothing, fashion, etc., that is, external differences, indicate internal differences, namely: differences in values and their gradations. Some observers, he noted, believe that the actions of adolescents are guided only by the desire to achieve recognition from their peers, and everything else (clothing, language, musical tastes, behavior, etc.) is just “monkeying” necessary for belonging to a group. This point of view comes from the idea of youth culture as a natural sequence.
Another point of view comes from the fact that subculture represents a confrontation, which consists in the fact that the reason for diversity in the teenage world is an expression of inter-age and class hostility. This position is developed, for example, in the book of American researchers Sue Widdicombe and Robin Wooffit, “The Language of Youth Subcultures: Social Identification in Action” (New York, 1995). Teenagers enter a hostile world. This point of view was defended, in particular, by the authors of one of the first significant books devoted to youth subcultures - the Englishmen Stuart Gell and Tony Jefferson in the book "Confrontation through rituals: youth subcultures in post-war Britain", published in London in 1976.

3. Reasons for the emergence of the subculture.
Why do subcultures arise?
The most common answer is this: to resolve contradictions in the mainstream culture if it turns out to be unable to provide the next generation with an effective ideology. A subculture takes shape in its own style of behavior, in language, clothing, and in rituals that are capable of creative development.
The theory of subcultures as a scientific discipline tries to determine the relationship between the “main” culture and “deviations”. She works in the conceptual field of cultural studies, based on specific sociological studies and other humanities disciplines. Marxist theory denies subcultures, considering youth subcultures as an ideology designed to mask the antagonistic contradictions of capitalist society and replace them with confrontation between generations.
The views of supporters of the theory of social conflict are close to Marxist.
Social action theorists emphasize the behavior of the individual in his contacts with others. In this understanding, subcultures are considered as a system that regulates the implementation of the interests and needs of young people in society.
There is no doubt that each of us has happened to walk down the street, ride the subway, or just watch TV and see people who are somehow different from others. These are the informals - representatives of modern subcultures.
The word itself is informal, informal means unusualness, brightness and originality. An informal person is an attempt to show his individuality, to say to the gray masses: “I am a person,” to challenge the world with its endless everyday life and lining everyone up in one row. Scientifically speaking, a subculture is a system of values, attitudes, behaviors and lifestyles that is inherent in a smaller social community, spatially and socially isolated to a greater or lesser extent. Subcultural attributes, rituals, and values, as a rule, differ from those in the dominant culture, although they are associated with them. The English sociologist M. Brake noted that subcultures as “systems of meanings, ways of expression or lifestyles” developed by social groups that were in a subordinate position, “in response to dominant systems of meanings: subcultures reflect the attempts of such groups to resolve structural contradictions that have arisen in the broader social context." Another thing is culture - a mass phenomenon - a system of values inherent in most of society and a way of life dictated by society.
Let's make sure that subcultures are a huge bright world, revealing to us all shades of life. To do this, we will briefly analyze each subculture.

4. Classification of subcultures.

Types of subcultures

		Description of subspecies
Music- cal	Subcultures based on fans of various genres of music.	Alternatives	fans of alternative rock, nu metal, rapcore
		Goths	fans of gothic rock, gothic metal and darkwave
		Indie	indie rock fans
		Metalheads	fans of heavy metal and its varieties
		Punks	fans of punk rock and supporters of punk ideology
		Rastafarians	reggae fans, as well as representatives of the Rastafari religious movement
		Rockers	rock music fans
		Ravers	fans of rave, dance music and discos
		Hip-hop (rappers)	fans of rap and hip-hop
		Traditional skinheads	lovers of ska and reggae
		Folkers	folk music fans
		Emo	fans of emo and post-hardcore
		Rivetheads	Fans of industrial music
		Junglists	Fans of jang and drum and bass
Image high	Subcultures distinguished by style of clothing and behavior	visual kei
		Cyber Goths
		Mods
		Nudists
		Hipsters
		Teddy fights
		Military
		Freaks
Political and worldview	Subcultures distinguished by social beliefs	Anarcho-punks
		Antifa
		RASH skinheads (redskins)
		SHARP skinheads
		NS skinheads
		Beatniks
		Informals
		New Age
		Straight Edgers
		Hippie
		Yuppie
By hobby	Subcultures formed through hobbies	Bikers	Motorcycle lovers
		Writers	Graffiti fans
		Tracers	Parkour lovers
		Hackers	Fans of computer hacking (usually illegally)
For other hobbies niyam	Subcultures based on cinema, games, animation, literature.	Otaku	Fans of anime (Japanese animation)
		Bastards	Using the jargon of bastards
		Gamers	Fans of computer games
	Historical reenactors	Role movement	Fans of live action role-playing games
		Tolkienists	Fans of John R.R. Tolkien
		Therianthropes	-
		Furry	Fans of anthropomorphic creatures
Hooligan	The identification of these subcultures is often contested, and not everyone classified as one of them considers themselves to be one of them.	Rude-boys
		Gopniks
		Lyubera
		Ultras	Highly organized, very active fan club members
		Football hooligans

5. The most widespread subcultures among modern British youth.
Skinheads. (Skinheads)
No matter how paradoxical it may seem, the lumpen subculture of “skinheads” (skinheads) was considered to be initially racist, even “fascist”. As already described in the chapter about the Jamaican subculture “rudies”, which settled in London, skinheads took from their black peers not only reggae music, but also style and slang. It got to the point that in one of the party books of the stagnant times, the author reported that reggae was “a product of the skinheads subculture, aggressively racist music, etc.” True, then, the same author unexpectedly characterizes it as a heavy metal analogue of a military march (hence, he did not hear anything), but calling praise for the African race white racism is too much. It is interesting that for the “skinheads”, the analogue of our “lubers” and “gopniks”, it was the revered “hippies” “East”, personified by people from South Asia (“Pakis”), who were endowed with all imaginable and inconceivable vices. By the way, in England, where the “Pakis” were the main victims of racism, and in Germany, where they are Turks, and in France, where they are North African Berbers and Arabs, black immigrants quickly adopt the lifestyle of the indigenous population and do not cause such irritation as they stubbornly Muslims who adhere to their customs.
In 1964, the Mods, especially those from the lower strata of society, instinctively sensed, with the advent of Swinging London, a real threat to their existence as a distinct subculture. While the “Mod style” was copied and embellished by thousands and thousands of young people, a small contingent of “real” people decided to turn their backs on mass culture, hardened their image and moved back to their roots. Also rejecting the dominant culture that pop music has now become, skinheads draw their inspiration from the music of rudies - ska, bluebeat and rocksteady (see page 70). The dominant “psychedelists” and “hippies” become for them not only traitors to the “Mod covenants”, but also class enemies. Having neither their own cultural elite nor the opportunity to realize themselves in mass culture aimed at middle-class youth, “skinheads” feel like outsiders and withdraw into their conservatism, based on the old values of the working-class outskirts. Their style, now Dressing Down, now fully corresponded to the aggressive self-affirmation on the streets of large industrial cities: heavy boots (usually with a steel cup-shaped toe) with high lacing, wide trousers with suspenders or cropped (rolled up) jeans, rough jackets, white T-shirts, shaved heads.
From 1965 to 1968, an “incubation” period occurs in the history of “skinheads”. But already in the middle of 1968 they were already appearing in the thousands, especially loving to commit outrages on football matches. Their style was the exact opposite of “hippie”. Instead of non-resistance, they took on the cult of violence, “quenching hippies,” homosexuals (Turner, on the contrary - in contrast to liminal individuals who had unexpressed sexual characteristics, here there is precisely an emphasis on sexual characteristics in individuals focused on the structural state of society) and “packs” , whom they considered and consider degenerates. However, " Public opinion”, unlike the domestic times of the “heyday of the Lubers and Kazanians” (the eighties), was not on their side.
Some of the “skins” soften their image a little, even let their hair down a little and, because of their suede jackets, become “suede skins” (in 1972 they were also called “smoothed”). It is complemented by black windbreakers, wide-brimmed hats and, oddly enough, black umbrellas. But this trend, which essentially returned the “skins” back to 1964, due to the flourishing of the “glam” style in music and fashion, quickly withered and soon disappeared completely.
When “Punks” appeared on the scene of youth subcultures in 1976 and an open confrontation began between them and the “Teddy Boys,” who were experiencing a short-term revival, the time came for the “skinheads” to choose which side they would take in street clashes. The majority of young skinheads, mainly urban, joined forces with the punks, while the rural ones, who were in the minority, supported the Teddies. Punks and skinheads seemed to be on opposite sides of the street style barricades. After merging with the “skins,” a funny metamorphosis occurred - they began to listen to punk rock, their shaved heads were now adorned with a punk mohawk, but the clothes remained the same. The new subculture was called “Oi!” (i.e. “Oops!”). Two years later, a split is emerging in the “skins” camp, associated with a cooling towards the “blacks” and the beginning of pogroms, which they explained as a traditional class expression of their dislike for the “newcomers”. The fact is that in the late eighties, a stream of immigrants from the Caribbean islands poured into England, and the economic crisis created intense competition for jobs. And if the orthodox “skinheads” continued to have sympathy for the “rudies”, “Oi!” openly join the ultra-right - the National Front and other political groups. Thanks to the press, soon all “skinheads” begin to be called racists and fascists, and only a few think about the original roots of skinheads, and how it all began.
The “Two Colors” movement, popular in the eighties in Great Britain, and the closely related “Rock Against Racism” movement united most of the punks, “rude boys”, some skins and the second generation of “mods”. In the States and Great Britain, just a few years ago, a group called itself SHARP (Skinheads Against Racial Prejudice) appeared, making itself known more and more loudly. Its founder in England, Rudy Moreno, said: “Real skinheads are not racists. Without Jamaican culture we simply would not exist. Their culture mixed with the culture of the British working class, and it was through this synthesis that the world saw Skinheads.”
Goths.
Goths are representatives of a youth subculture that emerged in the late 70s of the 20th century in the wake of post-punk. The gothic subculture is very diverse and heterogeneous, but to one degree or another it is characterized by the following features: a dark image, interest in mysticism and esotericism, decadence, love of horror literature and films, love of gothic music (gothic rock, gothic metal , death rock, darkwave, etc.).

The history of the emergence of the Goth subculture

The main priority in this subculture is a unique worldview, a special perception of the surrounding world, death - as a fetish, which can be considered one of the signs of belonging to the Goths. But we should not forget that gothic appeared thanks to music, and to this day, it is the main unifying factor for all goths. The Goth subculture is a modern trend that is characteristic of many countries. It originated in Great Britain in the early eighties of the last century against the backdrop of the popularity of gothic rock - an offshoot of one of the post-punk genres. And the gloomy decadents Joy Division, Bauhaus, Siouxsie and The Banshees can truly be considered the founders of the genre. Later 80s goth bands: The Sisters Of Mercy, The Mission, Fields Of Nephilim. And it was they who formed their own special gothic-rock sound, but this subculture does not stand still, it is not static. Everything, on the contrary, is in a dynamic that combines life and death, good and evil, fiction and reality. By the beginning of the 90s, new styles of gothic music appeared - ethereal and darkwave (melancholic psychedelia), dark folk (pagan roots), synth-goth (synthetic gothic). And by the end of the 90s, gothic fit perfectly into styles such as black, dead and doom-metal. Now the development of gothic music is mainly associated with electronic sound and with the formation of the “dark scene” - uniting gothic electronic and industrial groups, for example, Von Thronstahl, Das Ich, The Days Of The Thrompet Call etc. This subculture is diverse and heterogeneous, because it cultivates individuality, but it is possible to identify common features for it: love for gothic music (gothic rock, gothic metal, death rock, darkwave), a gloomy image, interest in mysticism and esotericism, decadence , love for horror literature and films.

An idea that unites the goths

The Gothic worldview is characterized by a predilection for a “dark” perception of the world, a special romantic-depressive outlook on life, reflected in behavior (isolation, frequent depression, melancholy, increased vulnerability), a special perception of reality (misanthropy, a refined sense of beauty, addiction to the supernatural), an attitude to society: rejection of stereotypes, standards of behavior and appearance, antagonism with society, isolation from it. Also characteristic of the Goths are artistry and the desire for self-expression, manifested in working on their own appearance, in the creation of poetry, painting, and other forms of art.

Their religion and symbols

One of the features of the Gothic perception of the world is an increased interest in the supernatural, magic and the occult. The tradition that attempts to revive Celtic magical rituals, or the occult tradition, is based on Scandinavian paganism. Therefore, among the Goths there are a lot of pagans and even Satanists, but for the most part these are people attracted by dark religious aesthetics - external manifestations, who are not “real” Satanists. There are also Goths who study a wide variety of ancient philosophies: from Egyptian and Iranian to Voodoo and Kabbalah. But in general, most of ready to one degree or another - Christians. As you can see, there is no single Gothic tradition. Gothic aesthetics is extremely diverse in the set of symbols used: you can find Egyptian, Christian and Celtic symbolism. The main sign is the Egyptian ankh, a symbol eternal life(immortality). The connection with the Goths is obvious here - initially the goth subculture arose thanks to vampire aesthetics ("Nosferatu"), and who are vampires if not "undead", that is, "not dead", living forever. Christian symbolism is used more rarely, mostly in the form of ordinary crucifixes (only with a more stylish design than usual). Celtic symbolism is found in the abundant use of Celtic crosses and various ornaments. Occult symbolism is quite widely represented; pentagrams, inverted crosses, and eight-pointed stars (symbols of chaos) are used.

The image is ready

Goths have their own recognizable image, which is Lately has undergone significant changes. No matter how Gothic develops, two unchanged basic elements remain: the predominant black color of clothing (sometimes with elements of other colors), as well as exclusively silver jewelry - gold is not used in principle, since it is regarded as a symbol of ordinary, hackneyed values, as well as the color of the sun ( silver is the color of the moon).

Varieties ready:

Goth vampires. The most modern and fashionable variety of goths. These are usually very closed characters who are offended by the whole world. The most pleasant pastime is to tell a friend about a newly invented method of suicide or to think about your sores.

Goths - Punk Goth. Veteran goth style. Mohawks, safety pins, ripped jeans, leather jackets. Almost one hundred percent punks.

Goths - Androgyn Goth. "Asexual" goths. All makeup is aimed at hiding the character's gender. Corsets, bandages, skirts, latex and vinyl clothing, high heels, collars.

Goths - Hippie Goth. The style is characteristic of pagans, occultists or elderly Goths. Baggy clothes, hoods, raincoats. Hair of natural color, free flowing, with woven ribbons. Amulets, but not metal, but wooden or stone, with images of runes and other magical signs.

Goths - Corporate Goth. Goths who work in large companies and are forced to dress in accordance with the corporate style. Office wear as close to gothic as possible. No makeup, minimal jewelry, everything is strict and black.

Goths - Cyber Goth. This is newer. Cyberpunk aesthetics. Active use of techno-design: gears, pieces of microcircuits, wires. Clothing is most often made of vinyl or neoprene. Hair is shaved or dyed purple, green or blue.

Punks.
Punks are a youth subculture that emerged in the mid-70s in the UK, USA, Canada and Australia, characterized by a love of punk rock music and a critical attitude towards society and politics. The name of the famous American artist Andy Warhol and the Velvet Underground group he produced is closely associated with punk rock. Their lead singer Lou Reed is considered the founding father of alternative rock, a movement that is closely related to punk rock. The popular American band Ramones is considered the first group to play punk rock music. The Damned and Sex Pistols are recognized as the first British punk bands.

Ideology

Punks adhere to different political views, but for the most part they are adherents of socially oriented ideologies and progressivism. Common views include the desire for personal freedom and independence (individualism), non-conformism, the principles of “not selling out”, “relying on yourself” and the principle of “direct action”. Other punk politics include nihilism, anarchism, socialism, anti-authoritarianism, anti-militarism, anti-capitalism, anti-racism, anti-sexism, anti-nationalism, anti-homophobia, environmentalism, vegetarianism, veganism, and animal rights. Some individuals associated with the subculture adhere to conservative views, neo-Nazism, or are apolitical.

Punk look

Punks have a colorful, shocking image.

Ravers. Cyberpunks.
Ravers are representatives of a vibrant and extremely large youth subculture, grouped around such “mobile sound systems” as Spiral Tribe and many others. Something like gypsies obsessed with “techno music” with one difference - they are only like that for the weekend, a kind of “Sunday ravers”. In many ways, these are children of the Thatcher era, coming from the now broad strata of the middle class, which has grown significantly over last years. The young people at the center of rave culture may talk like hippies and look like punks, but they also exhibit a post-Thatcher self-sufficiency and independence. Only a few of them work; the rest prefer to live on unemployment benefits or donations distributed at raves. In the United States, such people were conventionally nicknamed “Generation X”, because it now seems almost impossible to fit the new generation into any theoretical framework. These are young people, untouched by the business boom of the eighties, who did not see any interest in public life, preferring to become outsiders. The British version can also be called “Generation E” (from ecstasy - the most popular drug of the nineties, a powerful stimulant that creates a long-term feeling of contentment and euphoria).
The music matches this drug - monotonous and hypnotic, full of monotonous, shamanic trance rhythms. It all started in the summer of 1988, when the music of “acid house”, “black”, a radical version of disco, penetrated into England from the States, which was greatly influenced, in addition to purely technical achievements, by the black traditions of rap and disc jockeying (DJ). the practice of breaking (rhythmic disruptions), which then grew into a huge and influential techno culture or “scene” in the country with many sub-styles. Techno is the murky pulsation of discos in huge hangars, where “cyberpunks” surrender to the waves of space. Techno is the folk culture of degenerating, overpopulated megacities. The cult of anonymity and depersonalization is taken to the extreme in it. The bulk of techno groups are fundamentally indistinguishable. The appearance of a sampler in technical musical equipment, with the help of which almost anyone can make their own music from scraps of someone else’s, opened new era in the development of subcultures. The summer of 1988 is also called the “second summer of love.” For a few, it was the return of the hippie philosophy in a transformed form. Others reproached ravers for total hedonism, drug promotion and disregard for the older generation. The following year, what began as an underground movement resulted in the organization of massive “commercial” raves, in which up to twenty thousand people took part. In many ways, the increase in the popularity of raves was facilitated by conservatives who passed the law “On strengthening responsibility for organizing paid meetings.” Raves have become difficult and expensive to organize. Economically speaking, supply was stifled as demand increased. As a result, the way was opened for those who wanted to politicize this largest youth movement since the sixties. “People used to just want to dance, but now they're increasingly asking why they're not allowed to?” says Fraser Clark, publisher of alternative rave magazines. The musicians representing this subculture borrowed much from the ideology and appearance of the hippies (removing the long hair, but leaving colorful clothes), complementing it with “new age” ideas, such as chaos theory and economic radicalism. They see ego needs and materialism as the main social evils. Their motto is: “No money, no ego.” At the same time, they resolutely insist on their apoliticality. From the punks they adopted the idea of total freedom, saying that the only reason they are underground is because the government, through its laws, forces them to do so. Like the first punks, ravers and cyberpunks are developing their own technical distribution channels for “techno,” only on a much larger scale. Independent studios produce small editions of so-called “white labels” (that is, discs without indicating the manufacturers), singles without cover, which are distributed to clubs, which are even now experiencing a real boom, and specialized stores. At the same time, both radio and international record companies were left out of business, unable to quickly respond to rapidly changing musical styles. It is almost impossible to buy techno labels, that is, record companies - music does not require large expenses, it is easy to record. The Crime Law of 1994 reduced the possibility of holding free raves to almost a minimum, but attempts to organize commercial ones also often fail due to local authorities - this happened this year with the largest techno festival, Tribal Gathering. The future of this subculture in the light of current changes in the youth environment seems vague to me. From my point of view, as a movement, both musical and stylistic, it has exhausted itself, fatigue and apathy have set in. Some ravers connected with the “new age”, the rest turned into club ravers, returning to everyday reality after parties. They became the dominant culture, turning the temporarily declining rock back into a viable, truly alternative force to society.
Junglists.
Junglists (from the English Junglist; often pronounced jan-ga-list, in accordance with the East End Cockney dialect) are a youth subculture inspired by drum and bass that emerged in the UK in the early 1990s and is currently moment being one of the main movements of the country.
The appearance of a “real” junglist is sportswear (T-shirt, hoodie or loose shirt, baggy pants, sports shoes) and, unlike rappers, the absence of all kinds of gold jewelry. The manner of behavior and speech was adopted from the ore-boys.
The main feature of the junglist movement is its multinationality. It exists not only in Great Britain, but throughout the world, including in Russia.
Grunge. Indie kids.
Several factors contributed to the emergence of a new indie subculture in the UK in the mid-eighties:

etc.................

research work (project)

"Men's youth fashion as a subculture"

Completed: Gaifullin

Vildan Rafisovich

Student 10"A" class

MBOU secondary school No. 58

Sovetsky district Kazan

Supervisor: teacher

technologies:

Martynova E.P.

Kazan, 2016

Content.

1. Introduction

2.Goal and objectives.

3 . History of the term,

4. The birth of subcultures.

5 . Basiccharacteristics of youth subcultures.

7. Fashion creators of the third millennium.

8. Fashion and youth subcultures in our time.

9 .Conclusion

10.Bibliography.

“It’s scary to say how often the most exciting clothing concepts can be found in the poorest people.”

Designer Christian Lacroix.

Introduction.

When you walk through our wonderful city, you involuntarily pay attention to how my peers are dressed. And it can be very interesting to determine by appearance which social group of people he belongs to. And when he wears an unusual outfit, it’s immediately clear which subculture he prefers. And I wanted to consider the phenomenon of youth fashion as a subculture.

Modern society is not homogeneous. Each person is a special microcosm, with his own interests, problems, concerns. But at the same time, many of us have similar interests and requests. Sometimes, in order to satisfy them, it is necessary to unite with other people, because together it is easier to achieve the goal. This is the social mechanism for the formation of subcultures - associations of people based on interests that do not contradict the values of traditional culture, but complement it. And youth subcultures (which are often based on hobbies for various genres of music, sports, literature, etc.) are no exception.

Teenagers have always constituted a special socio-demographic group, but in our time a specific teenage culture has developed, which, along with other social factors, plays a big role in the development of the modern teenager. Sociologists first addressed this issue in the 60s.XXcentury. In Russia, since the late 80s, the attention of researchers to youth subcultures has become more noticeable. In recent years, much more attention has been paid to youth subculture.

Each subculture has its own fashion and style. A single style unites people, be it music, clothing or lifestyle.

No matter how subcultures try to isolate themselves from the common basic culture, it is very difficult to become completely autonomous.

2.The purpose of my work :

consider the concepts of “fashion” and “subculture”; find out how these concepts are related to each other.

Tasks:

consider the main characteristics and aspects of youth subcultures,

highlight their features, show their interrelation and influence on the formation of fashion, tastes and worldview of the younger generation.

study literature on this topic;

Relevance: This topic is due to the recent emergence of a large number of diverse subcultures and the growing interest of researchers and society in this phenomenon.

Hypothesis: subcultures have a connection with fashion and mutually influence each other.

3. History of the term the concept of “subculture”, “fashion”.

Let's start with the history of the term. In 1950, American sociologist David Reisman, in his research, introduced the concept of a subculture as a group of people who deliberately choose the style and values preferred by a minority. subcultures attract people with similar tastes who are not satisfied with generally accepted standards and values. The style of the youth subculture turns out to be not just its external expression; through its rituals and iconic forms, it challenges the existing moral order and dominant ideology. In the USSR, the term “Informal youth associations” was used to designate members of youth subcultures.

The subculture has the following characteristic features: a specific lifestyle and behavior of the participants; peculiar norms, values, worldview characteristic of a given social group; also the presence of a more or less obvious initiative center that generates ideas.

The word “fashion” comes from the Latin “modus” (measure, method, image, rule, norm). The Latin "modus" was used by the philosophy of the 17th-18th centuries. as a transitory property of matter (object). In the Russian language, the word “fashion” appears under Peter I and is recorded in the first Russian dictionaries.

The history of fashion is as old as the history of costume. From the moment when man discovered the significance of clothing as a means of protection from the adverse effects of nature, it was not long before he began to reflect on its aesthetic and stylizing function. Clothing speaks volumes; it reveals certain thoughts and characteristics of a person. Subculture is a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. A subculture creates its own unique culture, including a special value system, language, behavior, clothing and other aspects, and therefore has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion.

4. The birth of subcultures.

It is customary to distinguish between the concepts of “subculture” and “youth subculture”. It is believed that a youth subculture is a culture created by young people for themselves; it is a culture “not for everyone,” a cultural subsystem within the official system. It determines the lifestyle, value hierarchy and mentality of its bearers. The youth subculture is a special case, one of the many subcultures in modern society. The epithet “youth” immediately defines a certain cultural niche occupied by people united by the principle of age. Age in this case is a very important demographic characteristic. Taking into account the special psychology of age in culture is undoubtedly important, since it leaves a significant imprint on spirituality and mentality. The youth subculture, according to the German scientist L. Hauser, is “a form of expression of the process of searching for and mastering a worldview.” In other words, a youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon; it is a special form of life search. Subculture is a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. A subculture creates its own unique culture, including a special value system, language, behavior, clothing and other aspects.

For my work, this feature of subcultures is of great interest, since it all has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion.

From birth, a child tries to repeat the behavior of his parents and other adults around him. For young children, their parents are role models. But what older child, the closer his age is to adolescence, the more children separate from their parents, they want to be different from them, and not only from their parents, but also from the society around them. This is the reason for the emergence of youth subcultures. Young people unite in separate movements that differ from the prevailing majority in behavior, clothing and general lifestyle. The main function of the youth subculture is to give young people the opportunity to stand out from others, to realize themselves, and to find friends with the same views.

Each youth subculture has its own attributes,your style of clothing and in music, their websites. There are even gestures characteristic of certain subcultures.

For a 50's teenager rock and roll was a revolution in literally everything: in the manner of dancing, speaking, walking, in views on the world, on power, on parents, and most importantly, a revolution in a person’s views on himself. This is how rock culture arose. And among young people it has become really fashionable.

In the 60s there arosesubculture "Modos" (Fashion). Fashion picks up the dandy way of dressing from the “Teddy Boys” (1950). Their motto is “moderation and accuracy!” The mods wore perfectly fitting suits, a chemical miracle of the early 60s - snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with a zipper, neat hairstyles. In 1962, the legendary Beatles became followers of the Modos style. Youth fashion, rapidly developing in this decade, also has its influence on the classic houses of Haute Couture. Such houses offered their clients an “ennobled” version of youth fashion: knee-length skirts, suits “modernized” with bright colors and new lines, classic “pumps” with low heels, etc. The fashion of the late 1960s is influenced by the new youth fashionsubcultures - “hippies”. The diffuse hippie style brought into fashion bright ethnic motifs from eastern countries, a deliberate effect of shabbyness and, above all, jeans, which were something of a symbol of protest against the bourgeois uniform. With their appearance and behavior, hippies emphasized the rejection of norms official culture. In search of individuality, young rebels mixed clothes different styles, times and peoples. They sang the value old clothes. This is where the worn effect and ripped jeans came from.

It is known that some subcultures continue to live to this day, while others cease to exist. This also has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion. Fashion quickly responds to the changing needs of young people. And sometimes it is ahead of their change, creating new ones. If something ceases to be relevant, it disappears from everyday life into history. Pagers, for example, can now only be found in a museum, but once upon a time it was fashionable. The situation is the same with subcultures. The Zooties, rockabillies, beatniks, hippies (if they exist, then very few) have long disappeared. But now such a subculture as emo, for example, has gained enormous popularity among young people. This conclusion can be drawn from the abundance of young people dressed in this style. People who don’t consider themselves emo dress this way too, they just think it’s beautiful. The hairstyles that came into fashion thanks to this subculture also caught on very well. Such subcultures owe their mass popularity to the fashion created by youth media.

Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into general culture and may even become a classic in some field. For example, let's givesubculture "hipsters". It appeared in the USSR and existed from 1940 to the beginning. 1960s. This subculture had a Western (mainly American) lifestyle as a standard. Hipsters stood out with their bright clothes and original manner of speaking (special slang). They had a special interest in Western music and dance. Western fashion still has a huge influence on our country. Unfortunately, this applies not only to clothing... Subcultures are also an indicator of this. It is difficult to remember at least one subculture that originally arose in Russia. Basically they all came to us from the West.

Another subculture directly related to fashion ishipsters or indie kids. The name speaks for itself. It comes from the English word hip, which translates as “to be in the know.” Fashion is perhaps the main component of hipster culture.

5. Main characteristics of youth subcultures.

Each informal belongs to one of the types of youth subcultures: (the most common subtypes of subcultures are presented below)

Types of subcultures

general description

Subspecies

Description of subspecies

Musical

Subcultures based on fans of various genres of music

Alternatives

fans of alternative rock, rapcore

Goths

gothic rock fans

Metalheads

fans of heavy metal and its varieties

Punks

punk rock fans

Rockers

rock music fans

Hip-hop (rappers)

fans of rap and hip-hop

Skinheads

ska lovers

Emo

emocore fans

Image

Subcultures distinguished by style of clothing and behavior

supporters of the movement do not have a specific ideology; they prefer electronic club music.

Mods

snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with a zipper, neat hairstyles

The subculture is based on imitation of the “golden youth” by teenagers.

Glamourists

majors. The main component is the desire for a life advertised in glamorous “men’s” and “women’s” magazines (the pursuit of fashion, clothing and cosmetics).

Freaks

Hipsters

A "dead" Soviet movement inspired by the Western way of life.

Military

Paramilitary style of clothing.

Political and ideological

Subcultures distinguished by social beliefs

Antifa

Hippie

Informals

By hobby

Subcultures formed through hobbies

Bikers

Motorcycle lovers

Writers

Graffiti fans

Tracers

Parkour lovers

Hackers

Fans of computer hacking (usually illegally)

For other hobbies

Subcultures based on cinema, games, animation, literature.

Otaku

Fans of anime (Japanese animation)

Gamers

Fans of computer games

Football hooligans

6. The relationship between fashion and subculture. Youth men's fashion - for the young and stylish. Fashion and subculture occupy an important place in modern society. Both of these concepts are quite complex and interesting to study, and both of them are components of culture as a whole. Fashion today penetrates into all spheres of life.Some people even choose their behavior or lifestyle under the influence of fashion trends. In this case, we can talk about the existence of fashion for certain subcultures, as well as the mutual influence of these phenomena on each other. Fashion in general always strives for a young and fresh impression: it wants to rejuvenate. At the same time, the essence of fashion – change – is closer to the dynamic pace of life of young people.Fashion acts as a special social sign, a symbol of prestige. Fashion focuses on recognized leaders, unites in accordance with in a certain way behavior, stimulates interest in new things. The compensatory function allows you to fill unsatisfied or insufficiently satisfied needs, acting as a regulator of social needs. Fashion is a social phenomenon and therefore should be researched and studied under different angles vision. A youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon; it is a special form of life search. Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into general culture and can even become a classic in some field. Fashion often gives rise to subcultures. No matter how representatives of one or another subculture try to stand out and deviate from official fashion, the end result is that the more widespread a subculture becomes, the greater the chance that it will be fashionable and vice versa - the more fashionable a subculture is among young people, the more widespread it will be.Thus, the connection between subcultures and fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion as a whole, they in some sense give birth to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes possible the emergence and the development of subcultures. This complex relationship concerns for the most part external image, some individual elements. But, as was said earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all areas of the life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence. Important role youth subculture is that it provides the opportunity for self-development and self-realization to its participants. And also the opportunity to create your own reality and culture. It is not limited to household items or clothing. We came to the conclusion that there are practically no boundaries for fashion: it can penetrate science, art, politics, ideology, etc. Sometimes elements of such fashion go beyond the subculture and become quite acceptable to the bulk of the population, moving into the category of “official” fashion. Fashion for a certain style of music, clothing, etc. can become the basis of a subculture, and also determines the development or cessation of its existence.

Image for a representative of a subculture is not only clothing, it is a demonstration by one’s appearance of the beliefs and values that the subculture promotes.As mentioned earlier, fashion is associated with the instinct of imitation. This is one of the contradictions inherent in youth - to be like everyone else and at the same time stand out. This contradiction is resolved thanks to subculture.For example, a Goth among “his own people” will be like everyone else, but in comparison with people who do not belong to this subculture, he will be a “black sheep.” The goal has been achieved, he will be noticed. Fashion is art, fashion is an endless list of victims, fashion is a lifestyle, fashion is a philosophy, fashion is shocking. Modern fashion is becoming more and more democratic; it no longer imposes strict rules, allowing everyone to express their individuality. Fashion is cyclical, so previously popular items often get a second life. And if you reconstruct the history of this or that thing, you can find connections with a wide variety of subcultures.

7. Fashion creators of the third millennium.

Refusal of a uniform style.Among the countless sources of inspiration for designers, retrospective ones have recently occupied the most important place. Even the greatest Couturiers usually draw inspiration from well-known human experiences. Genius often manifests itself in re-reading with brilliance well-known chapters of human history.Another source remains street fashion and the fashion of designers working for the “street” and subcultures. Beginning in the '90s, designers began to eclectically mix elements of several different subcultural styles and play freely with historical, cross-cultural and futuristic influences to create new fashions.

John Galliano admitted that the inspiration for his spring-summer 2005 collection was just one line from a song - it was the phrase “Napoleon in Rags” from the classic Bob Dylan song LikeaRollingStone. The show itself was more like a performance: videos, live music, singers, rock band Uminski, violins and viols and rock stars in the front row. Rock musicians, as is the custom of all rock dinosaurs, broke both guitars and drums towards the end of the performance.

Ripped jeans and rock 'n' roll presentedKarl Lagerfeld at Paris Fashion Week in his spring-summer 2005 collection for the house of Chanel, the prototypes of which were two great icons of the 20th century - James Dean and Coco Chanel. From the first - an abundance of torn denim jackets and frayed breeches with tweed and rock and roll leather chic, and from the second - glamorous and feminine fluffy dresses with a corset and sexy butterfly swimsuits.

Showing the last autumn men's collection“swing, dudes and rock and roll” from sirPaul Smith the soundtrack of which was entirely composed of songs by modern young British and American bands playing rock and roll, Britpop, post-post-punk, junk, testified to the designer’s genuine love for non-commercial rock music and referred to the image of a swinging intellectual from Chelsea in the late 60s. Paul Smith invited his aristocratic intellectual to feel free to mix everything in his wardrobe. Large dockers and factory workers' caps with expensive tweed jackets and skinny trousers. And all this - with zebra boots with elongated toes. This is exactly what Smith believes a reincarnated London dandy from the 60s should look like in the winter of 2006.

Street style showed the House of Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week in the fall/winter 2010/2011 collection. Stretched sleeves and a dropped loop effect are “new chic” from John Galliano. He invited the brilliant audience to imagine themselves in a torn knitted dress, in a bias-cut jacket with raw edges, in randomly selected clothes. “Would you be shocked if I wore something more comfortable?” - these words of the heroine Jean Harlow from the Howard Hughes film “Hell's Angels” are taken as the epigraph!

Often, truly great designers find ideas literally in their own backyard. Two years agoGiorgio Armani created a collection inspired by images of workers from Eastern Europe. How can a luxury designer get ideas for luxury clothing from a world of poor immigrants? My new collection Armani updated the slanted berets in the style of the 1960s.

Glam and rock by Jean-Paul Gaultier on Paris Fashion Week. “More glam! David Bowie, Thank you! T. Rex, thank you! ”- this is how leading French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier began his seasonal show, loudly calling on the audience gathered in Paris to get up from their seats and move to the beat of the energetic music.

Models began to appear on the catwalk in bright, stretchy leggings that harkened back to the 1980s, sparkling shapeless tops, torn shearling coats with shiny leather prints, sweaters with huge fluffy collars, caped blouses, golden leggings and translucent tops with crosses. This is how Jean-Paul Gaultier saw the coming autumn and winter of 2009/2010.

Today there is an increasing popularity of the hippie style. Neo-hippie and ethnic romanticism captured the podiums. Dresses and skirts embroidered with flowers and beads, oriental motifs, intricate patterns, hand painting, and asymmetry are very popular. Skirts trimmed with braid, T-shirts decorated with rhinestones. Long, floor-length dresses with multi-colored embroidery. Tunics worn over trousers. Accessories: pouches, handbags, cloth bags, belts embroidered with beads.

000 CollectionZegna spring/summer 2015-Z Zegna was born under the sign of the house of Pitti Uomo, so it is quite fair to find designer influences this seasonPaul Surridge and Murray Scallon that they presented their current proposals for the Italian label.

Ermenegildo Zegna presented the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture spring/summer 2015 collection with a fashion show in the form of an original film directed by Johan Söderberg. Unconventional cut, a different look at the latest spring-summer trends in men's fashion - all forecasts from Stefano Pilati. The starting point was architectural restraint and classic elegance in premium men's business clothing. The silhouettes were perfectly adjusted in volume and cut. The main theme of this collection was to be the study of the original male strength and energy, intellectual masculinity.

It should be noted that the designer offered quite a lot of striped items. Where there are black and blue, where there are gray and dark red, black and white or beige with sand stripes - they are found in different widths, vertical and horizontal, even oblique and circular lines, as on shirts and jackets, coats and three-piece suits. The coat and wide trouser legs are cut in the usual loose way, just reaching your ankles. As for the choice of fabric, there is freedom in combining them, the main thing is that the combinations of materials are pleasant to the body, so that the air circulates freely and inspiredly. Youth trends are too diverse and changeable to highlight a specific style, so just focus on your ideas about convenience and your sense of style.

8. Youth subcultures and fashion in our time.

An important place in modern youth fashion is occupied by clothing in the style of various subcultures and simply style directions. Most young people belong to some movement - hip-hop, goths, punks, hippies - and dress in accordance with their hobbies. The main criteria for choosing such clothing are comfort and the ability to emphasize one’s belonging to a specific subculture.Hip-hopera easy to recognize by wide pants and a T-shirt that do not hinder movement while dancing. Hippies prefer loose fit, natural fabrics, and bright colors. Black clothing combined with dark makeup - your business card is ready. Particularly noteworthy are retro distractions and passion for recreating the styles of ancient civilizations; for summer - these are the motifs of Egypt and Ancient Greece; in spring and autumn - this can be the rich East and in winter the expected aspiration to the North.

Universal clothing for the city. However, youth fashion does not only include subcultures; there are also simpler and more universal styles. One of them is casual, comfortable clothes for everyday wear in the city. Casual is characterized by a mixture of styles, a combination of dissimilar elements - for example, shorts and a jacket, a business suit and sneakers, jeans and a formal shirt. The highlight of casual style is the opportunity to create new looks every day, combining and experimenting . The conclusion is simple: clothing style is a business card, which, even before the first words, can tell a lot about its owner. This is why it is important to create an image, taking into account your own preferences, and this is why there are so many trends in fashion: so that everyone can find themselves. Youth men's fashion is a fairly broad concept. Here you can find styles of various subcultures, and simply comfortable casual clothes. The fashion portal Manero.ru offers a closer look at what youth men's fashion is.

Men's youth clothing

Men's youth fashion in the coming season is, first of all,denim fashion. Skinny jeans can be complemented with bright printed T-shirts or simple white T-shirts - the hit of the season. In cool weather, the T-shirt can be replaced with a long sweater with a striped pattern. In general, stripes will become the most popular print of the spring-summer 2015 season. It adorns T-shirts, sweaters, and jackets. Classic nautical stripes and multi-colored stripes, both horizontal and vertical, will be in fashion.

Sport style this year it is aristocratic and reminiscent of sailing regattas and golf clubs rather than backyard basketball courts.

Every fashionable young man needs a classic knit polo shirt - white, dark cherry or blue. Another must-have element of a fashionable men's wardrobe is loose, soft cotton chinos in light colors, which can be an original alternative to jeans. Interesting models can be found in new collections of such European brands as Gray Connection, John Devin, Mod, Esprit, Tom Tailor and many others.The clash of classics and avant-garde: as always, two opposites met on the catwalks - a strict classic style and the image of a fashionable rebel. Both of these areas of the fashion industry find their buyers. Young people are also happy to choose traditional jackets and blazers, skillfully combining them with jeans and trousers. The coming year was no exception: classic men's fashion is in demand not only by respectable businessmen, but also by their younger brothers.

Some other trends in youth fashion

Today, youth fashion is still not as fierce as before, but it is influenced by youth subcultures. Hip-hop, rock and punk left their mark on men's youth fashion 2015.

Hipster- This is another noticeable trend in modern youth fashion. Retro style references, granny sweaters, stylish vests, jackets and tapered trousers are still relevant. Bright colors and the use of stylish accessories are encouraged - sunglasses, scarves, hats and bags. Another trend that has been increasingly capturing youth fashion lately is the so-called J-style. It is characterized by the fact that it has overt references to the fashion of the East, in particular Japan. Original patterns and non-standard styles of J-fashion clothing help create a memorable youth look .

Street fashion for men

This year it is presented quite brightly. Most designers of fashion houses relied on street style and were right. Main principle, which is observed when choosing an outdoor wardrobe is comfort and convenience. Biker jackets, bomber jackets, raincoats and coats - all these types of outerwear are great for youth street style.

yukami. The rolled-up jeans are completely splattered with paint, which adds some chaos to the men's outfits and makes the collection much closer to youth. Admiral's coats and naval cloaks with wide shoulders proudly stand out throughout the entire ensemble, some of them even have shoulder straps. The sleeves are decorated with wide blue stripes. In general, Gucci collections always have something of a style military, so there is nothing unexpected about the new clothes. Some shirts are more reminiscent of pajamas: they are just as long and without a collar.

It will be interesting to know that Frida Giannini always prefers two styles: a jet setter in a pantsuit and a rock musician with a rebellious character. So the designer combined these two images into one, calling them “decadent admiral.” You can also see the influence of British subcultures, for example, mods. Does a Gucci pantsuit look too formal? It doesn’t matter, Frida Gianini relaxed her look, just roll up your trousers, put on moccasins and put on a bag over your shoulder, and you will radically change your appearance.

7.Conclusion

The fashion industry today is not a closed monolithic system that sternly dictates to everyone what is in the bull's eye and what is out. On the contrary, she herself, in turn, experiences the enormous influence of the subculture, “street fashion,” which very quickly becomes the main source of imagination for the creators of the fashion world. They take ideas from styles and subcultures, modernize them, and then mass produce them. Subculture research is like a spotlight that shines on cultural space in search of originality and authenticity - with the fashion industry “tapping on their heels”. Thanks to the Internet, digital and mobile communications, the world is becoming faster and reality is becoming virtual. Now the decisive factor is the flow of information - from the catwalk to manufacturers, and from final buyers to fashion creators.As a result " Street style” and designer fashion quickly moved closer to each other, and fashion as a whole became more monolithic. In the era of globalization, boundaries are being erased in fashion.

The ability to dress fashionably, in accordance with the ideas inherent in a given age, is perceived as an extremely important feature that allows a teenager to be considered “almost an adult.” Those who are still dressed according to the standards of children's fashion are often called "nerds", "skins", "hi", "touched", or "babies who go shopping hand in hand with mommy." All these unflattering reviews emphasize that "nerds" are perceived as people with big weirdness or even become marginalized in the peer group, and all because they do not do what is considered normal for young people, that is, they do not listen to the opinions of children their age, do not pay attention to what they wear, etc. And it is precisely, most often, such “nerds” who fall under the influence of subcultures, so that in the future they will “stand out from the crowd.”

Thus, the connection between subcultures and fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion as a whole, they in some sense give birth to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes possible the emergence and the development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns mostly the external image, some individual elements. But, as was said earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all areas of the life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence.

So, the topic of subcultures and fashion is one of the most interesting topics. It is vast and multifaceted. It is vital and is observed every day. Subcultures and fashion do not stand still, they develop and change. They are increasingly embracing humanity.

8. Bibliography

S.I. Levikova / “Youth subculture” / textbook / M., / Grand / 2004.

B.D. Parygin / Social psychology: textbook / 2nd edition / M., / 2003.

Fashion theory. No. 10, winter 2008-2009. Dick Hebdige. Chapters from the book “Subculture: the meaning of style”

A. Vasiliev/ “Russian Fashion”/M.,/2004.

www.hazzen.com/publications/articles/istorija_subkultury_hippi_chast_i

www.glamur.3dn.ru/forum/39-250-1

“Bike Freak” magazine issue No. 6, article “Guys in Leather”

Magazine "POP» autumn- winter 2005

Young people have a particular relationship with the world. There are many groupings (subcultures) that have interests different from those of the mainstream culture. A particular cultural grouping is a way for young people to express their individuality.

By the mid-60s teenagers had begun to form distinct cultural groupings. Most young people in Britain follow some kind of youth culture: rockers, hackers, ravers, skinheads, hippies, goths, punks, bakers, emos, metalists, modes, hip-hop, football hooligans, gamers, anarchists, green, religious subcultures, etc. A subculture is a way of life. It isn't a fan club, it's a real life. It seems to them that the parents are always saying: No! That everything about them: their hair, their music, clothes, the way they talk, their dreams are considered bad by grown-ups. The young people are unsure of where they are going. Often young people do something not because they want to do it. They do things because everyone around does or because they think it"s impolite to refuse.

Modern youth have a special attitude towards the world. There are many groups (subcultures) whose interests differ from mass culture. Certain cultural groups are a way for young people to express their individuality. In the mid-60s, teenagers began to form different cultural groups. Most young people in the UK belong to some kind of youth culture: rockers, hackers, ravers, skinheads, hippies, goths, punks, bakers, emo, metalheads, mods, hip-hop, football fans, gamers, anarchists, greens, religious subcultures , etc. Subcultures are a way of life. This is not a fan club, this is real life. It seems to them that their parents always say: no! Everything that concerns them: their hair, their music, their clothes, their manner of speaking, their dreams - adults consider stupid. Young people don't know where they are going. Often young people do things not because they want to. They do it because everyone around them is doing it or because they think it's not polite to refuse.

Punk, also known as punk rock, is an aggressive form of rock music that coalesced into an international (though predominantly Anglo-American) movement in 1975-80. They have become more politicized militant groups, and they spread denial as an ideology and aesthetic approach, becoming a model of teenage rebellion and alienation.

Punks wanted to stand out from society as much as possible; therefore, a rough style predominated in their wardrobe. Punks strive for freedom and anarchy. Most punks believe that government is chaos and can never be perfect. In the early 1980s, punk rock's heyday ended. New subcultures began to form.

Punks in Russia.

The USSR media first learned about punks from the Western press, which was banned in the Soviet Union.

As a result, young people began to listen to Western music, watch Western films and imitate Western clothing styles. In the 1970s, Russian youth listened to classic rock, such as the Beatles, or art rock. Most of them have never heard the word "punk". The first people who called themselves “punks” appeared in Leningrad at the end of 1979 and the beginning of 1980; they had little idea what punk meant.

Skinheads.

Skinheads appeared in Britain in the mid-1960s. One of the first names of the subculture was “Mods”; they cut their hair very short, explaining this by the fact that their hair got in the way during fights. Working class kids called themselves "Skinheads" to separate themselves from other Mods. Huge groups of hot-tempered youth gathered at football stadiums every Saturday to cheer on local teams. There were frequent clashes and shootings between fans of the teams, and these events gave rise to the period of legendary British "football violence". When did it come night, « skinheads» put on the most the best from what they had it and went to the disco. Here they danced to the sounds of the new music that Jamaican immigrants brought to England.

Skinheads in Russia.

Skinheads appeared in Russia in the early 90s. In 1992, there were about a dozen skinheads in Moscow. They behaved quietly, mostly engaged in self-admiration and showed off themselves in the city center. The first skins were a pure product of teenage apes: they diligently imitated Western models.

The term "Emo" is used as one of the branches of counterculture; This is an abbreviation of the word “emotional”. Emo defines not only the attitude, but also the way that comes from emocore (emo music). Emocore is a combination of hardcore and punk that was very popular in Washington DC in the late 80s. Emo culture continued to develop between 1990 and 2000, and has reached its current popularity.

Teenagers who listen to emocore are emokids. People around them consider them losers. They do not know how to control their emotions, they are quiet, shy, withdrawn and very sensitive. Typically, emos like to express their feelings through poetry, writing about their problems with depression, confusion, and anger because the world doesn't understand them. Themes, type: life- This pain, usual. Although life is already very difficult for them, they are prone to hurting themselves. The emo subculture causes irreparable harm.

Emo culture in Russia.

Russian teenagers quickly adopted Western emo culture. Obviously, there are many more people opposed to this culture than fans. Some say that this is not natural for Russia. In their opinion, a copy taken from the West contradicts true culture former Soviet Union. Others argue that representatives of this trend are distinguished by their young age, and such experiences are precisely typical of young, failed and emotional teenagers, that is, such a culture should not be taken seriously. Still others argue that the desire of emo kids to be “themselves” and at the same time strictly following instructions like “what a real emo should look like” is more than paradoxical. Admirers claim that in Russia there are several musical groups that founded the emo movement. However, even Russian singers have come up with the idea of releasing albums in the emo style. If representatives of show business rely on a relatively new movement, it means that it is becoming more and more popular in our country. On the Internet you can find a huge number of resources where they offer to order patches, T-shirts, badges, bracelets, and even wall calendars in the emo style. How this trend will take root in our country, or leave its mark on the culture of Russia, time will tell.

British culture has been spreading around the world for centuries, and even the collapse of the colonial empire and the burden of war did not weaken its influence. English stiffness and adherence to tradition have become the talk of the town, but it is difficult to overestimate the contribution of this country to youth culture, which does not tolerate stagnation and strives for freedom and novelty.

One of the most striking examples of this phenomenon is the mod subculture, the origins of which should be sought among the youth of the late 50s. In those years, the word “modernist” was used to describe fans of modern jazz, contrasting them with lovers of traditional jazz. Modernists, or “mods” for short, understood bebop, were keen on the ideas of existentialism and dressed in.

In part, the mod movement appeared as a kind of response to the British subculture of Teddy Boys - criminalized youth from a working environment who listened to American blues and sought to imitate the “golden youth” by dressing in the fashion of the era of King Edward VI.

London Teddy Fights, 1954

Teddy Boys mid 50s, Kensington, West London

Opinions differ somewhat regarding the social class of the early Mods: some consider them to have come from a working-class background, while others believe that they were born from the middle class of London's East End. In particular, the emergence of mods could be strongly influenced by the culture of the beatniks and young representatives of London bohemians.

The lifestyle of the mods of the late fifties and early sixties - independent, freedom-loving, dressed perfectly down to the smallest detail, regulars at jazz clubs, riding Italian scooters and often abusing amphetamines - was not yet well known to the general public, but more and more more young people.

This was also facilitated by the atmosphere of fashion-loved coffee bars, where more and more young people from the working environment began to appear, and in addition to jazz, rhythm and blues began to be heard more and more often. Captivated by the fiery recordings of the Stax, Chess, Atlantic and Motown labels, wild energy the blues of Muddy Waters, Bo Diddley and Howlin' Wolf, and the rhythm of ska, the young modernists, now representing all walks of life, developed a sense of style and a love of music.

Bye talented musicians Foggy Albion were mastering new music, record collectors happily showed off the latest recordings of brilliant American performers: Lee Dorsey, Sam Cooke, Jackie Wilson, Arthur Alexander, James Brown and other favorites of the mods of the early sixties.

By the middle of the decade, Marvin Gaye, Wilson Pickett, Otis Redding, Dobie Gray, Smokey Robinson, The Supremes and Martha & The Vandellas reached the heights of success.

British bands such as Georgie Fame & The Blue Flames, Zoot Money’s Big Roll Band and Graham Bond Organization also won the hearts of mods. To their hits, young people spent their last strength on the dance floor, giving their last money for a new suit.

Subculture is a more meaningful phenomenon than perfectly chosen clothing, dancing and music, but fashion is unthinkable without these components. London clubs The Scene, The Flamingo, and The Marquee, as well as Manchester's Twisted Wheel, became favorite places for modernists. These legendary establishments for modern mods had a significant influence on the culture of post-war Britain. The Flamingo Club hosted many A-list stars including Sarah Vaughan, Ella Fitzgerald, Stevie Wonder, and also introduced the British to Jamaican ska.

Alexis Corner, who will be called the father of British blues, performed at The Marquee club. Formed in 1961, his Blues Incorporated group would lead to outstanding British musicians from The Rolling Stones, The Cream and many other bands, whose unprecedented worldwide success would be referred to as the “British Invasion”.

As the number of mods increased, so did the attention they received from the music, fashion, and television industries. The development of the subculture had a profound influence on fashion around the world. “Swinging London,” as journalists called the phenomenon, included a variety of manifestations of the cultural and sexual revolution of the sixties. In music, it was about the real “British Invasion”: the whole world listened to The Beatles, The Kinks, The Rolling Stones, and dozens of other English groups.

In fashion, Britain has also become a leading exporter: the miniskirt, a symbol of sexual liberation, was invented by British designer Mary Quant. Charming British women Jean Shrimpton and the “Queen of Mods” Twiggy became the first world-famous top models.

The British flag even found its way onto jackets and dresses. Interest in the fashion clientele has led to the emergence of clothing brands like Merc and a boom in London's Soho. Young people no longer had to get suits from Italian tailors: English tailors were in no way inferior to them. Carnaby set the tone, and the whole world listened and copied.

Fashion company on Carnaby street, London, 1966

On television, the British Invasion was reflected in shows such as Ready Steady Go! and "Top of the Pops". Ready Steady Go, which began in 1963 as an ordinary music program, quickly changed its style, becoming a world-famous youth show about music, fashion and fashion.

It can definitely be said that the growing popularity of the subculture contributed to consumerism, but at the same time, public attention to fashion showed that young people were beginning to play a much more prominent role in the conservative society of Great Britain. They began to pay a little more attention to their lives, problems and needs. This attention was not always to the advantage of the mods: in particular, in May 1964, the whole country learned about their violent clashes with rockers on the beaches of southern England in Brighton, and the government began to jam pirate radio stations aimed at irrepressible British teenagers.

However, the first mass youth subculture Great Britain was also to become the longest-lived, because there was something in it that went far beyond the scope of the next fashion trend. This became noticeable just a few years after the recession.

From the second half of the seventies, soul music acquired an increasingly funky sound, which did not appeal to purist fashionistas, especially those living in the north of England. The passion for rare and already old-fashioned recordings without any admixture of funk resulted in a movement called Northern Soul. Within its framework, the dance component of the mod culture developed very actively and the dances characteristic of northern soul have now become business card directions. By the second half of the seventies, northern soul reached its peak of popularity and spread throughout Northern England and the Midlands.

At the end of the decade, the “Mod Revival” direction arose - literally “mod revival”. This musical genre absorbed elements of contemporary punk rock and new wave, as well as power pop in the spirit of The Who and Small Faces, a product of the mod scene of the sixties. Mod revival gave music many successful bands, among which the legendary The Jam, led by Paul Weller, became the most famous.

The mods' clothing style generally remained the same - suits, shirts, etc. Weller introduced the fashion for two-tone boots, which could be seen in the sixties on Brian Jones, Roger Daltrey and other rock stars. Fashion did not forget about the Italian scooters Vespa and Lambretta, which they loved in the first wave.

In the eighties, northern soul gained new fans. Also, some mods paid attention to the contemporary ska label “2 Tone” and rare recordings from the sixties, which received new life thanks to re-releases and called freakbeat by experts. This term began to be used in relation to music that represents a transitional stage from rhythm and blues to psychedelia and progressive rock.

Somewhere not far from the mod scene was garage rock, which was loved by some mods back in the period of its emergence in the mid-60s, and now, like freakbeat, revived by numerous reissues of old compositions and groups that draw their inspiration from them.

In the nineties, the mod revival of the seventies itself served as the basis for the new British music- Britpop, and many performers continued to feed on the ideas of the sixties itself, including, of course, Oasis and Blur. The fashion movement itself has matured, become more secular and trendy, but has not become pop at all.

Half a century has passed since the advent of the mods, and their culture still attracts connoisseurs of the richest musical traditions, which never cease to nourish musicians from all over the world, and people fascinated by the restrained elegance of the British style, which has become classical, but remains surprisingly modern.

Sergey Koshelev

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