Fashion subculture in English. Fashion subculture of Great Britain

When England's booming post-war economy gave young people jobs, it created a class - a class of young people earning decent money physical labor(these were factories, repair shops - in general, not the work of clerks). But everything is connected in the economy, and new enterprises have created many white-collar jobs - clerks, managers, etc. The young people who came to these places were better educated and more “modern” - they listened to “progressive” music, wore fashionable clothes, rode scooters that protected them from dirt and did not leave oil stains on clothes, etc. and so on. These were mainly city residents, starting with teenagers. Rockers - everything remained the same - these guys were “simpler”. Leather is protection from weather, falls and oil (when the first Japanese motorcycles were tested by English motorcycle journalists, one of them wrote with delight that after the ride there was not a single oil stain on his trousers!). Music - rock and roll, rockabilly. Conversations are rude, education is low. In general, these were the heirs of the "Teddy Boys", while the Mods can be called the heirs of the "dandies". And most rockers lived in the suburbs, small towns or villages.

All the prerequisites for skirmishes were at hand. And the main reason was not class differences, but partly the cultural and aesthetic contradictions generated by them. This was not a class confrontation - it was a confrontation generated by the conflict between a new wave of youth with new values ​​and those who had “revolted” a few years earlier. But neither of them were “representatives of evil.” There were simply too many things that separated them, and this could not but cause contradictions. Rockers considered the Mods to be snobs and brats. Fashion considered Rockers outdated and grimy. In general, it was difficult to coexist peacefully. Thus was born (mainly thanks to the press and cinema, but more on that later) the legend of Mods versus Rockers. The birth of Mods (from Modernists). It is difficult to say when this confrontation began. Rockers, as a subculture, existed even before the early 60s. Mods were “noticed” in the press in 1962. This year, England's economy experienced its second post-war boom. Naturally, this boom entailed a cultural boom. New music, new ideas, a new "youth" vehicle - a Vespa or a Lambretta - all this was the ideal stage for a new movement. And the Mods were at the very crest of this wave.

So, what did these guys look like and how did they live? Main interests: Music: modern jazz, The Who, Small Faces, The Jam, The Yardbirds. Clothing: fashionable youth clothing (pseudo-military style, ponchos, short raincoats, tennis shirts, combat boots, moccasins - everything is bright and expensive). Shapeless army parka jackets were extremely popular. They perfectly protected from bad weather and did not constrain the choice of what to wear under them. Transport: Italian scooters, Vespa or Lambretta, sometimes hung with dozens of chrome mirrors, arches, antennas. High seat backs, white striped tires. The fashion scooter was usually polished to a mirror shine, but was not distinguished by functional tuning.

Groups: Aces - the elite, the most advanced, educated and undeniably recognized as the leaders of the Mods movement. Tickets are mostly teenagers, very aggressive, fueled by amphetamines, not very imaginative and practically following in the footsteps of the Aces - according to the mods themselves - a little closer to the working class. Meeting places: among the Aces these are serious music clubs, where interesting and new music was played, first of all. The Tickets run dance halls and nightclubs, mainly in East London. Behavior: The Mods were younger and, as a result, more aggressive than the Rockers. The mods were mostly younger (under 20 years old), while the rockers in the 60s were mostly 21-25 years old. Switchblades were quite popular among mods. In addition, they sewed fishhooks onto the lapels of their coats - in a fight, grabbing the collar lapels was dangerous. Most of the brawls were initiated by Mods, paradoxically as it may seem. The rockers were more interested in how to "make the tone" (100 miles per hour, and only in the dark and in bad weather), modifying the motorcycle and racing from traffic light to traffic light between cafes. Almost all serious clashes took place “on the road”. On Saturdays and the so-called "bank holidays" the Mods and Rockers went (not too different from most of England) to the coast - to Margate, Brighton or Clacton. In situations where such mass excursions collided with each other, a fight broke out. The strange thing is that there were no particularly major clashes. Ordinary residents of coastal cities were not involved in this and did not suffer in these clashes. It was mainly the awnings and tables on the beaches that suffered.

England in the 60s gave birth to a lot of youth movements. Nevertheless, English society remained for the most part a society inclined towards traditionalism and certain “moral principles”. It was this society that reacted extremely negatively to Mods and Rockers, without distinguishing or separating them. In these movements, English citizens saw the danger of the destruction of customary morality. The press played one of the decisive roles in this. By describing rockers (already habitually positioned as “bad guys”) and mods, English newspapers created not just an image of the unusual social phenomenon, but an image of a threat to English morality and principles of life. This, in turn, escalated the negative attitude on the part of ordinary people, the police and the government. May 17, 1964 was one of the "bank holidays". As always, many Englishmen decided to spend this day on the coast - the weather promised to be good. By a strange coincidence (this was in no way planned) a huge number of Mods and Rockers decided to spend the day in Brighton at the same time. Naturally, a collision was inevitable. According to eyewitness accounts and now elderly former mods and rockers, it was the Mods who started it all. A huge number of them gathered in the city. At some point (no one can say what the original reason was), the fashions, armed with stones from the beach, rushed to “hunt” the rockers. Two fairly large groups of mods and rockers (although to be fair there were a LOT more mods) clashed in a massive brawl on a beach in Brighton. Gradually, riots and fights moved to the streets of Brighton. The hastily assembled approximately 100 police officers were unable to stop the clashes. In the end, the warring parties were dispersed, more than 50 people were arrested. The trial of those arrested was a public process, carefully hyped by the press. However, no one was killed, no firearms were used, and the scandal did not last long on the front pages of the newspapers. But the label was stuck forever. And without dividing into rockers and mods.

The judge who presided over the trial called the participants in these riots "Sawdust Caesars" - it is difficult to say what this means for the British, but the meaning is clear. The term took root and became firmly entrenched in the brains of the average Englishman. This incident was and remains the most famous episode in the history of Mods and Rockers, and not because of its seriousness real events, but because of the press coverage and, above all, because of the film made in 1979 "Quadrophenia" (reminiscent of the Hollister riots, isn't it?). This film is still a cult film for the British, and above all for the residents of Brighton. Tours are available for tourists about the history of the "battle" in Brighton and the filming locations. Surprisingly, the much more serious incident that took place on Easter Sunday in Clacton in 1964 has received less attention. This incident is considered the first officially recorded mass clash between Mods and Rockers. Two large groups that collided "on the road" staged a massive brawl, using beach umbrellas as weapons. Many windows in nearby houses were damaged, and 97 people were arrested. Newspapers carried the headlines “Scooter gang's day of terror” (Daily Telegraph) and “Savages invade coast - 97 arrests” (Daily Mirror). But a film was not made about this story - and it sank into oblivion.

The rockers were the first to leave. It was a natural process - and the Fashions also did not last long. By 1966, their movement simply became uninteresting to the new youth - the hippies came. Fashions are a thing of the past, leaving behind a tour of the sites of the “great battle of Brighton”, the film “Quadrophenia” and new term"moral panic" The term itself only appeared in 1987 - after the publication of research by sociologist Cohen, who built his theory by observing clashes between rockers and mods, and the film in 1979 - but the heroes of both were still recognizable. The fate of those Mods who, in their own classification, stood at the bottom rung of the philosophy and aesthetics of the movement was strange. They gradually transformed - Doctor Martins boots appeared, previously short-cropped hair began to be simply shaved, elements of clothing for young people from the working classes were added to Mod army jackets. They retained some of the basic attributes of the mods - music, Levi's jeans, Fred Perry sportswear - but that's probably all. This is how skinheads arose.

But to this day, older people - former Mods and Rockers - organize "re-unions" in the places where they spent their stormy youth. The legendary "Ace Cafe" in London was and remains the stronghold of former Rockers - this cafe has turned into a historical center. There you can not only drink coffee or beer in an authentic environment, but also buy classic rocker motorcycle clothing and accessories, exchange technical information or find the missing part for a lovingly restored Triumph or Norton. Regular official “re-unions” of rockers are also held there and their motorcycle rides begin there. For Mods, such places are concentrated by geographic location. In Brighton you can visit Jump the Gun for authentic Mod clothing and accessories. Regular "re-unions" take place mainly in the same cafes where they once met, but all this has acquired the character of clubs for classic scooter lovers, and not mod meetings.
according to the website "Neoformal"

“Fashion”, without exaggeration, is an incredible “cultural” phenomenon of our century.

You can always remain a “fashion”, the main thing is to move along the unbeaten path, constantly revealing new layers for yourself in music, clothing, literature and cinema. “Taking the most worthy things from everywhere, they sought to create something previously unknown, something that could not leave anyone indifferent. It is not surprising that among the mods themselves, the most worthy was considered the one who had the most exquisite wardrobe, the most interesting collection of records, the most good library, the most developed mind.” In terms of style, and the fashions came from the so-called upper-working and lower-middle class (that is, from families of professional, highly paid workers and employees) - this is Dressing Up, taken to the absolute. In 1963 year The The Beatles blew up musical culture and “invented sex.” Around the same time, fashion began to take shape as a purely teenage subculture with its own traditions, ideas and idols. The reason for all this is the post-war economic boom that England experienced in the fifties and sixties. As a result of the boom, young people had some free cash on their hands, and young minds found themselves at the mercy of previously unknown problems - where to spend it all?

Fashion found something to borrow from both the “Teddy Boys” and the “Beatniks”: from the former they inherited a keen interest in to the smallest details, as soon as we were talking about fashion, thanks to the latter, the style of “mods” acquired a clear minimalist slant. By combining these two components, “fashion” received its unique edgy image. The average Englishman, accustomed to more insipid things, had difficulty digesting this. “When everyone in England started singing about free love, which was very controversial, the fashions also turned out to be troublemakers - but for the exact opposite reason. It was as if they were deeply indifferent to this problem. I think the mods were too self-centered by nature to make a couple.”
Search by mods own style was not limited to borrowings alone. In many ways they came from the opposite direction. Motto: “Moderation and accuracy!” Narrow shirt collars, tailored suits, always white socks and neat hairstyles (usually “French” style). The last money was spent on having the latest squeak of Italian fashion - be it clothes or a motor scooter - the main means of transportation for mods, unlike rockers. Moreover, the appearance was determined not only by material capabilities, there were also a lot of subtleties that prescribed what was possible and what was not (for example, such strictness - with a certain width of trousers, the distance between them and the shoes had to be half an inch, and with a slightly larger width - already a whole inch ). The slightest mistake - and you turned into a universal laughing stock.

The main word in the “Mod” lexicon was “obsessed,” borrowed from Colin McCleans’s “cult” Mod novel “Absolute Beginners” (1958). This obsession was also in music - they absorbed like a sponge modern jazz, blues, and soul, unknown how leaked from black musicians in the States, and completely exotic things, like Jamaican ska music. In this way, cross-cultural dialogue between subcultures was carried out. Moreover, the “mods” adopted from the blacks not only music, but also the jargon of the Jamaican “rudies” and some other elements of style. They imitated Prince Baxter, the creator of many songs about the Rude Boys. In 1965, a boom among mods was caused by Baxter’s song “Madness” - hence the name of the presenter British group“ska”. In the 60s, the first multiracial clubs appeared - “Ram Jam” in Bristol, etc. Mass culture, digesting “Mod” radicalism and mixing it with British beat and rhythm and blues, brought The Who and Small Faces to the pinnacle of commercial success. Truly innovative ensembles such as Action, Creation and The Eyes were left behind.
The image of “fashion”, thanks to the press, soon became truly fashionable among a huge number of teenagers and, with its mass popularity, prepared a short-term phenomenon that in the mid-sixties would be called “Swinging London”. In 1963-65, the famous confrontation between rockers and mods began in the seaside towns of England, with up to a thousand people sometimes participating in mass fights on both sides. If later the “skinheads” portrayed ethnic minorities as the enemy, then here there was a struggle between social groups within society (rockers, as a rule, came from lumpen sections of society, and listened to hard rhythm and blues, such as the Rolling Stones and “Kinks”). Due to the massive dissemination of the image, “real fashion” disappears into the crowd in the literal sense of the word. In addition, with the appearance of the “Generation of Flowers” ​​on the stage, values ​​completely changed. And as Kevin Pearce wrote: “When everything was scattered into dust, those who once stood at the very origins preferred “self-immolation” to “looting.” But their spirit itself, the true Mod spirit, turned out to be immortal. AND the best for that proof is the punk “explosion” that broke out in the 70s, behind which one can see the shadow of the old fashions.”

By 1979, when punk had already begun to slow down, interest in what was hidden behind the very concept of “fashion” awoke with renewed vigor. This was largely thanks to the famous British musician Paul Weller and the band The Jam. But it just so happened that Weller took ten years to reach his mod peak, finally combining Debussy, the surf rock of The Beach Boys and the modern jazz of The Swingle Swingers on the last album of the Style Council group. This is how the Mod obsession was cast into a new art form.
The Mod subcultural “Renaissance” in the 1978-1980s brought a new rise in the popularity of Jamaican “ska” and “bluebeat”, as well as “rudiz” songs. These times were no longer so prosperous. 1979 Shortly after the Winter of Discontent, Thatcher came to power. Unemployment was growing. This affected the appearance of punks, who became the reincarnation of old fashions. Not a trace remained of the former neatness. The graceful lines of a fashionable Italian suit were replaced by khaki-colored paramilitary outfits tailored without much sophistication. However, this casual style allowed for some variety. One option: a very thin tie, cardigan, bleached trumpet jeans, white socks and power shoes. Having called what was happening a “revival of mods,” “the press and researchers of youth subcultures did not understand one obvious thing: if there was any funny moment in this “revival”, then it was a moment, nothing more, but at the same time there was a whole process of learning, comprehending new things. And very, very many people were drawn into this process.”

The eighties became a time for the “mod” subculture to search for new forms. The music became more and more sophisticated. This process was fueled, on the one hand, by the re-release of black “soul” classics of the 60s, and on the other, by the activities of underground groups like The Jasmine Minks and The Claim. Fashions increasingly entered jazz territory, which ultimately led to the creation of the famous Acid Jazz company. Eddie Piller, one of the co-owners of Acid Jazz, dealt with a Mod magazine in the early eighties, and a little later united several Mod record companies on one label (recording company). And now, in the nineties, without any stretch, we can call all this “funk jazz” a living embodiment of the very spirit of the old fashions.
Well, what’s happening in the nineties with the “Mod” style is simply rampant pluralism and democracy. Even the word “mod” itself is no longer amenable to precise definitions. Thirty years of dominance youth culture with the endless change of “eras” and “styles” it did its job. There are now so many “mods” that it is not possible to make an accurate description. This was also facilitated by the current musical explosion in the UK, the rise of the so-called “Britpop” - a musical direction in which rock groups (Oasis, Blur, Supergrass and Cast) actually returned to the rhythm and blues sound of the “mods” of the sixties, only slightly making the sound heavier and faster, responding to the needs of the public, who want the music to be more politicized and aggressive. There are “Garage” fashions in “psychedelic” shirts with poisonous colors, there are acid-jazz fashions with sideburns and fancy white everything. There are Blur-mods (after the name of the group) in an “Adidas” suit. There are “Mixer Mods”, “Rhythm and Blues” Mods and “Northern Soul Mods”. Please note that within each of the named “orders” there are “suborders”. Thus, hardcore “mods” can be divided into at least four more categories! But with all this diversity, there is something that “fashion 96” has in common with its predecessors. It also has its own “Zeitgeist” - that is, the spirit of the times, marked by certain political trends. A few years earlier, “grunge” ruled the minds of young people. Not very attractive aesthetically, it became a sign of its difficult and stressful times. New “fashions” gave their stylistic response to this “aesthetics of decline and destruction.” The sporty style of the “new wave” and the elegance of “new glam” are closer and dearer to them. The English element is beginning to take its toll. Here's what Adam, owner of the Brighton store Jump The Gun, which sells products exclusively for mods, says about this: “It is no coincidence that our current clothes are more and more in line with mod ideas. After a period of noticeable American influence, we are returning to traditional British values. "Mods, being a quintessentially British phenomenon, are perfectly suited to these new needs."

research work (project)

"Men's youth fashion as a subculture"

Completed: Gaifullin

Vildan Rafisovich

Student 10"A" class

MBOU secondary school No. 58

Sovetsky district Kazan

Supervisor: teacher

technologies:

Martynova E.P.

Kazan, 2016

Content.

1. Introduction

2.Goal and objectives.

3 . History of the term

4. The birth of subcultures.

5 . Basiccharacteristics of youth subcultures.

7. Fashion creators of the third millennium.

8. Fashion and youth subcultures in our time.

9 .Conclusion

10.Bibliography.

“It’s scary to say how often the most exciting clothing concepts can be found in the poorest people.”

Designer Christian Lacroix.

Introduction.

When you walk through our wonderful city, you involuntarily pay attention to how my peers are dressed. And it can be very interesting to determine by appearance which social group of people he belongs to. And when he wears an unusual outfit, it’s immediately clear which subculture he prefers. And I wanted to consider the phenomenon of youth fashion as a subculture.

Modern society is not homogeneous. Each person is a special microcosm, with his own interests, problems, concerns. But at the same time, many of us similar interests and requests. Sometimes, in order to satisfy them, it is necessary to unite with other people, because together it is easier to achieve the goal. This is the social mechanism for the formation of subcultures - associations of people based on interests that do not contradict the values ​​of traditional culture, but complement it. And youth subcultures (which are often based on hobbies various genres music, sports, literature, etc.) are no exception.

Teenagers have always constituted a special socio-demographic group, but in our time a specific teenage culture has emerged, which, along with others social factors, plays a big role in the development of the modern teenager. Sociologists first addressed this issue in the 60s.XXcentury. In Russia, since the late 80s, the attention of researchers to youth subcultures has become more noticeable. In recent years, much more attention has been paid to youth subculture.

Each subculture has its own fashion and style. A single style unites people, be it music, clothing or lifestyle.

No matter how subcultures try to isolate themselves from the common basic culture, it is very difficult to become completely autonomous.

2.The purpose of my work :

consider the concepts of “fashion” and “subculture”; find out how these concepts are related to each other.

Tasks:

consider the main characteristics and aspects of youth subcultures,

highlight their features, show their interrelation and influence on the formation of fashion, tastes and worldview of the younger generation.

study literature on this topic;

Relevance: this topic is due to the appearance in Lately a large number of diverse subcultures and the growing interest of researchers and society in this phenomenon.

Hypothesis: subcultures have a connection with fashion and mutually influence each other.

3. History of the term the concept of “subculture”, “fashion”.

Let's start with the history of the term. In 1950, American sociologist David Reisman, in his research, introduced the concept of a subculture as a group of people who deliberately choose the style and values ​​​​preferred by a minority. subcultures attract people with similar tastes who are not satisfied with generally accepted standards and values. The style of the youth subculture turns out to be not just its external expression; through their rituals and iconic forms, it challenges the existing moral order and dominant ideology. In the USSR, the term “Informal youth associations” was used to designate members of youth subcultures.

The subculture has the following characteristic features: a specific lifestyle and behavior of the participants; peculiar norms, values, worldview characteristic of a given social group; also the presence of a more or less obvious initiative center that generates ideas.

The word “fashion” comes from the Latin “modus” (measure, method, image, rule, norm). The Latin "modus" was used by the philosophy of the 17th-18th centuries. as a transitory property of matter (object). In the Russian language, the word “fashion” appears under Peter I and is recorded in the first Russian dictionaries.

The history of fashion is as old as the history of costume. From the moment when man discovered the significance of clothing as a means of protection from the adverse effects of nature, it was not long before he began to reflect on its aesthetic and stylizing function. Clothing speaks volumes; it reveals certain thoughts and characteristics of a person. Subculture is a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. The subculture creates its own unique culture, including a special system of values, language, behavior, clothing and other aspects, and therefore has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion.

4. The birth of subcultures.

It is customary to distinguish between the concepts of “subculture” and “youth subculture”. It is believed that a youth subculture is a culture created by young people for themselves; it is a culture “not for everyone,” a cultural subsystem within the official system. It determines the lifestyle, value hierarchy and mentality of its bearers. The youth subculture is a special case, one of the many subcultures in modern society. The epithet “youth” immediately defines a certain cultural niche occupied by people united by the principle of age. Age in this case is a very important demographic characteristic. Taking into account the special psychology of age in culture is undoubtedly important, since it leaves a significant imprint on spirituality and mentality. The youth subculture, according to the German scientist L. Hauser, is “a form of expression of the process of searching for and mastering a worldview.” In other words, the youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon, it special shape life search. Subculture is a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. A subculture creates its own unique culture, including a special value system, language, behavior, clothing and other aspects.

For my work, this feature of subcultures represents big interest, since it all has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion.

From birth, a child tries to repeat the behavior of his parents and other adults around him. For young children, their parents are role models. But what older child, the closer his age is to adolescence, the more children separate from their parents, they want to be different from them, and not only from their parents, but also from the society around them. This is what causes the emergence of youth subcultures. Young people unite in separate movements that differ from the prevailing majority in behavior, clothing and general lifestyle. The main function of the youth subculture is to give young people the opportunity to stand out from others, to realize themselves, and to find friends with the same views.

Each youth subculture has its own attributes,your style of clothing and in music, their websites. There are even gestures characteristic of certain subcultures.

For a 50's teenager rock and roll was a revolution in literally everything: in the manner of dancing, speaking, walking, in views on the world, on power, on parents, and most importantly, a revolution in a person’s views on himself. This is how rock culture arose. And among young people it has become really fashionable.

In the 60s there arosesubculture "Modos" (Fashion). Fashion picks up the dandy way of dressing from the “Teddy Boys” (1950). Their motto is “moderation and accuracy!” The mods wore perfectly fitting suits, a chemical miracle of the early 60s - snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with a zipper, neat hairstyles. In 1962, the legendary Beatles became followers of the Modos style. Youth fashion, rapidly developing in this decade, also has its influence on the classic houses of Haute Couture. Such houses offered their clients an “ennobled” version of youth fashion: knee-length skirts, suits “modernized” with bright colors and new lines, classic “pumps” with low heels, etc. The fashion of the late 1960s is influenced by the new youth fashionsubcultures - “hippies”. The diffuse hippie style brought into fashion bright ethnic motifs from eastern countries, a deliberate effect of shabbyness and, above all, jeans, which were something of a symbol of protest against the bourgeois uniform. With their appearance and behavior, hippies emphasized the rejection of norms official culture. In search of individuality, young rebels mixed clothes different styles, times and peoples. They sang the value of old clothes. This is where the worn effect and ripped jeans came from.

It is known that some subcultures continue to live to this day, while others cease to exist. This also has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion. Fashion quickly responds to the changing needs of young people. And sometimes it is ahead of their change, creating new ones. If something is no longer relevant, it goes away. Everyday life into history. Pagers, for example, can now only be found in a museum, but once upon a time it was fashionable. The situation is the same with subcultures. The Zooties, rockabillies, beatniks, hippies (if they exist, then very few) have long disappeared. But now such a subculture as emo, for example, has gained enormous popularity among young people. This conclusion can be drawn from the abundance of young people dressed in this style. People who don’t consider themselves emo dress this way too, they just think it’s beautiful. The hairstyles that came into fashion thanks to this subculture also caught on very well. Such subcultures owe their mass popularity to the fashion created by youth media.

Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into general culture and can even become a classic in some field. For example, let's givesubculture "hipsters". It appeared in the USSR and existed from 1940 to the beginning. 1960s. This subculture had a Western (mainly American) lifestyle as a standard. Hipsters stood out with their bright clothes and original manner of speaking (special slang). They had a special interest in Western music and dance. Western fashion still has a huge influence on our country. Unfortunately, this applies not only to clothing... Subcultures are also an indicator of this. It is difficult to remember at least one subculture that originally arose in Russia. Basically they all came to us from the West.

Another subculture directly related to fashion ishipsters or indie kids. The name speaks for itself. It comes from English word hip, which translates as “to be in the know.” Fashion is perhaps the main component of hipster culture.

5. Main characteristics of youth subcultures.

Each informal belongs to one of the types of youth subcultures: (the most common subtypes of subcultures are presented below)

general description

Subspecies

Description of subspecies

Musical

Subcultures based on fans of various genres of music

Alternatives

fans of alternative rock, rapcore

Goths

gothic rock fans

Metalheads

fans of heavy metal and its varieties

Punks

punk rock fans

Rockers

rock music fans

Hip-hop (rappers)

fans of rap and hip-hop

Skinheads

ska lovers

Emo

emocore fans

Image

Subcultures distinguished by style of clothing and behavior

supporters of the movement do not have a specific ideology; they prefer electronic club music.

Mods

snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with a zipper, neat hairstyles

The subculture is based on imitation of the “golden youth” by teenagers.

Glamourists

majors. The main component is the desire for a life advertised in glamorous “men’s” and “women’s” magazines (the pursuit of fashion, clothing and cosmetics).

Freaks

Hipsters

A "dead" Soviet movement inspired by the Western way of life.

Military

Paramilitary style of clothing.

Political and ideological

Subcultures distinguished by social beliefs

Antifa

Hippie

.

.

.

Informals

.

.

By hobby

Subcultures formed through hobbies

Bikers

Motorcycle lovers

Writers

Graffiti fans

Tracers

Parkour lovers

Hackers

Fans of computer hacking (usually illegally)

For other hobbies

Subcultures based on cinema, games, animation, literature.

Otaku

Fans of anime (Japanese animation)

Gamers

Fans of computer games

Football hooligans

6. The relationship between fashion and subculture. Youth men's fashion - for the young and stylish. Fashion and subculture occupy an important place in modern society. Both of these concepts are quite complex and interesting to study, and both of them are components of culture as a whole. Fashion today penetrates into all spheres of life.Some people even choose their behavior or lifestyle under the influence of fashion trends. In this case, we can talk about the existence of fashion for certain subcultures, as well as the mutual influence of these phenomena on each other. Fashion in general always strives for a young and fresh impression: it wants to rejuvenate. At the same time, the essence of fashion – change – is closer to the dynamic pace of life of young people.Fashion acts as a special social sign, a symbol of prestige. Fashion focuses on recognized leaders, unites in accordance with in a certain way behavior, stimulates interest in new things. The compensatory function allows you to fill unsatisfied or insufficiently satisfied needs, acting as a regulator of social needs. Fashion is a social phenomenon and therefore should be researched and studied under different angles vision. A youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon; it is a special form of life search. Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into general culture and can even become a classic in some field. Fashion often gives rise to subcultures. No matter how representatives of one or another subculture try to stand out and deviate from official fashion, the end result is that the more widespread a subculture becomes, the greater the chance that it will be fashionable and vice versa - the more fashionable a subculture is among young people, the more widespread it will be.Thus, the connection between subcultures and fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion as a whole, they in some sense give birth to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes possible the emergence and the development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns mostly the external image, some individual elements. But, as mentioned earlier, fashion is not only about clothes, it affects almost all areas of life modern man. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence. The important role of the youth subculture is that it provides the opportunity for self-development and self-realization to its participants. And also the opportunity to create your own reality and culture. It is not limited to household items or clothing. We came to the conclusion that there are practically no boundaries for fashion: it can penetrate science, art, politics, ideology, etc. Sometimes elements of such fashion go beyond the subculture and become quite acceptable to the bulk of the population, moving into the category of “official” fashion. Fashion for a certain style of music, clothing, etc. can become the basis of a subculture, and also determines the development or cessation of its existence.

Image for a representative of a subculture is not only clothing, it is a demonstration by one’s appearance of the beliefs and values ​​that the subculture promotes.As mentioned earlier, fashion is associated with the instinct of imitation. This is one of the contradictions inherent in youth - to be like everyone else and at the same time stand out. This contradiction is resolved thanks to subculture.For example, a Goth among “his own people” will be like everyone else, but in comparison with people who do not belong to this subculture, he will be a “black sheep.” The goal has been achieved, he will be noticed. Fashion is art, fashion is an endless list of victims, fashion is a lifestyle, fashion is a philosophy, fashion is shocking. Modern fashion is becoming more and more democratic, it no longer imposes rigid rules, allowing everyone to express their individuality. Fashion is cyclical, so previously popular items often get a second life. And if you reconstruct the history of this or that thing, you can find connections with a wide variety of subcultures.

7. Fashion creators of the third millennium.

Refusal of a uniform style.Among the countless sources of inspiration for designers, retrospective ones have recently occupied the most important place. Even the greatest Couturiers usually draw inspiration from well-known human experiences. Genius often manifests itself in re-reading with brilliance well-known chapters of human history.Another source remains street fashion and the fashion of designers working for the “street” and subcultures. Beginning in the '90s, designers began to eclectically mix elements of several different subcultural styles and play freely with historical, cross-cultural and futuristic influences to create new fashions.

John Galliano admitted that the inspiration for his spring-summer 2005 collection was just one line from a song - it was the phrase “Napoleon in Rags” from the classic Bob Dylan song LikeaRollingStone. The show itself was more like a performance: videos, live music, singers, rock band Uminski, violins and viols and rock stars in the front row. Rock musicians, as is the custom of all rock dinosaurs, broke both guitars and drums towards the end of the performance.

Ripped jeans and rock 'n' roll presentedKarl Lagerfeld at Paris Fashion Week in his spring-summer 2005 collection for the house of Chanel, the prototypes of which were two great icons of the 20th century - James Dean and Coco Chanel. From the first - an abundance of torn denim jackets and frayed breeches with tweed and rock and roll leather chic, and from the second - glamorous and feminine fluffy dresses with corsets and sexy butterfly swimsuits.

Show of the latest autumn men's collection “swing, dudes and rock and roll” from SirPaul Smith the soundtrack of which was entirely composed of songs of modern young British and American bands playing rock and roll, Britpop, post-post-punk, junk, testified to the designer’s genuine love for non-commercial rock music and referred to the image of a swinging intellectual from Chelsea in the late 60s. Paul Smith invited his aristocratic intellectual to feel free to mix everything in his wardrobe. Large dockers and factory workers' caps with expensive tweed jackets and skinny trousers. And all this - with zebra boots with elongated toes. This is exactly what Smith believes a reincarnated London dandy from the 60s should look like in the winter of 2006.

Street style showed the House of Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week in the fall/winter 2010/2011 collection. Stretched sleeves and a dropped loop effect are “new chic” from John Galliano. He invited the brilliant audience to imagine themselves in a torn knitted dress, in a bias-cut jacket with raw edges, in randomly selected clothes. “Would you be shocked if I wore something more comfortable?” - these words of the heroine Jean Harlow from the Howard Hughes film “Hell's Angels” are taken as an epigraph!

Often, truly great designers find ideas literally in their own backyard. Two years agoGiorgio Armani created a collection inspired by images of workers from Eastern Europe. How can a luxury designer get ideas for luxury clothing from a world of poor immigrants? My new collection Armani updated the slanted berets in the style of the 1960s.

Glam and rock by Jean-Paul Gaultier on Paris Fashion Week. “More glam! David Bowie, Thank you! T. Rex, thank you! ”- this is how leading French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier began his seasonal show, loudly calling on the audience gathered in Paris to get up from their seats and move to the beat of the energetic music.

Models began to appear on the catwalk in bright, stretchy leggings that harkened back to the 1980s, sparkling shapeless tops, torn shearling coats with shiny leather prints, sweaters with huge fluffy collars, caped blouses, golden leggings and translucent tops with crosses. This is how Jean-Paul Gaultier saw the coming autumn and winter of 2009/2010.

Today there is an increasing popularity of the hippie style. Neo-hippie and ethnic romanticism captured the podiums. Dresses and skirts embroidered with flowers and beads, oriental motifs, intricate patterns, hand painting, and asymmetry are very popular. Skirts trimmed with braid, T-shirts decorated with rhinestones. Long, floor-length dresses with multi-colored embroidery. Tunics worn over trousers. Accessories: pouches, handbags, cloth bags, belts embroidered with beads.

000 CollectionZegna spring/summer 2015-Z Zegna was born under the sign of the house of Pitti Uomo, so it is quite fair to find designer influences this seasonPaul Surridge and Murray Scallon that they presented their current proposals for the Italian label.

Ermenegildo Zegna presented the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture spring/summer 2015 collection with a fashion show in the form of an original film directed by Johan Söderberg. Unconventional cut, a different look at the latest spring-summer trends in men's fashion - all forecasts from Stefano Pilati. The starting point was architectural restraint and classic elegance in premium men's business clothing. The silhouettes were perfectly adjusted in volume and cut. The main theme of this collection was to be the study of the original male strength and energy, intellectual masculinity.

It should be noted that the designer offered quite a lot of striped items. Where there are black and blue, where there are gray and dark red, black and white or beige with sand stripes - they are found in different widths, vertical and horizontal, even oblique and circular lines, as on shirts and jackets, coats and three-piece suits. The coat and wide trouser legs are cut in the usual loose way, just reaching your ankles. As for the choice of fabric, there is freedom in combining them, the main thing is that the combinations of materials are pleasant to the body, so that the air circulates freely and inspiredly. Youth trends are too diverse and changeable to highlight a specific style, so just focus on your ideas about convenience and your sense of style.

8. Youth subcultures and fashion in our time.

Important place in modern youth fashion, clothing in the style of various subcultures and simply style directions. Most young people belong to some movement - hip-hop, goths, punks, hippies - and dress in accordance with their hobbies. The main criteria for choosing such clothing are comfort and the ability to emphasize one’s belonging to a specific subculture.Hip-hopera easy to recognize by wide pants and a T-shirt that do not hinder movement while dancing. Hippies prefer loose fit, natural fabrics, bright colors. Black clothing combined with dark makeup - your business card is ready. Retro distractions and passion for recreating the styles of ancient civilizations deserve special attention; for summer, these are the motifs of Egypt and Ancient Greece, in spring and autumn - this can be a busy East and in winter the expected rush to the North.

Universal clothing for the city. However, youth fashion does not only include subcultures; there are also simpler and more universal styles. One of them is casual, comfortable clothes for everyday wear in the city. Casual is characterized by a mixture of styles, a combination of dissimilar elements - for example, shorts and a jacket, a business suit and sneakers, jeans and a formal shirt. The highlight of casual style is the opportunity to create new looks every day, combining and experimenting . The conclusion is simple: clothing style is a business card, which, even before the first words, can tell a lot about its owner. This is why it is important to create an image, taking into account your own preferences, and this is why there are so many trends in fashion: so that everyone can find themselves. Youth men's fashion is a fairly broad concept. Here you can find styles from various subcultures and just comfortable everyday clothes. The fashion portal Manero.ru offers a closer look at what youth men's fashion is.

Men's youth clothing

Men's youth fashion in the coming season is, first of all,denim fashion. Skinny jeans can be complemented with bright printed T-shirts or simple white T-shirts - the hit of the season. In cool weather, the T-shirt can be replaced with a long sweater with a striped pattern. In general, stripes will become the most popular print of the spring-summer 2015 season. It adorns T-shirts, sweaters, and jackets. Classic nautical stripes and multi-colored stripes, both horizontal and vertical, will be in fashion.

This year's sports style is aristocratic and reminiscent of sailing regattas and golf clubs rather than backyard basketball courts.

To every fashionable young man you need to get a classic knitted polo shirt - white, dark cherry or blue. Another required element fashionable men's wardrobe - loose soft chinos made of cotton in light colors, which can become an original alternative to jeans. Interesting models can be found in new collections of such European brands as Gray Connection, John Devin, Mod, Esprit, Tom Tailor and many others.The clash of classics and avant-garde: as always, two opposites met on the catwalks - a strict classic style and the image of a fashionable rebel. Both of these areas of the fashion industry find their buyers. Young people are also happy to choose traditional jackets and blazers, skillfully combining them with jeans and trousers. The coming year was no exception: classic men's fashion is in demand not only by respectable businessmen, but also by their younger brothers.

Some other trends in youth fashion

Today, youth fashion is still not as fierce as before, but it is influenced by youth subcultures. Hip-hop, rock and punk left their mark on men's youth fashion 2015.

Hipster- This is another noticeable trend in modern youth fashion. Retro style references, granny sweaters, stylish vests, jackets and tapered trousers are still relevant. Bright colors and the use of stylish accessories are encouraged - sunglasses, scarves, hats and bags. Another trend that has been increasingly capturing youth fashion lately is the so-called J-style. It is characterized by the fact that it has overt references to the fashion of the East, in particular Japan. Original patterns and non-standard styles of J-fashion clothing help create a memorable youth look .

Street fashion for men

This year it is presented quite brightly. Most designers of fashion houses bet on street style and were right. The main principle that is observed when choosing an outdoor wardrobe is comfort and convenience. Biker jackets, bomber jackets, raincoats and coats - all these types of outerwear are great for youth street style.

yukami. The rolled-up jeans are completely splattered with paint, which adds some chaos to the men's outfits and makes the collection much closer to youth. Admiral's coats and naval cloaks with wide shoulders proudly stand out throughout the entire ensemble, some of them even have shoulder straps. The sleeves are decorated with wide blue stripes. In general, there is always something of style in Gucci collections military, so there is nothing unexpected about the new clothes. Some shirts are more reminiscent of pajamas: they are just as long and without a collar.

It will be interesting to know that Frida Giannini always prefers two styles: a jet setter in a pantsuit and a rock musician with a rebellious character. So the designer combined these two images into one, calling them “decadent admiral.” You can also see the influence of British subcultures, for example, mods. Does a Gucci pantsuit look too formal? It doesn’t matter, Frida Gianini relaxed her look, just roll up your trousers, put on moccasins and put on a bag over your shoulder, and you will radically change your appearance.

7.Conclusion

The fashion industry today is not a closed monolithic system that sternly dictates to everyone what is in the bull's eye and what is out. On the contrary, she herself, in turn, experiences the enormous influence of the subculture, “street fashion,” which very quickly becomes the main source of imagination for the creators of the fashion world. They take ideas from styles and subcultures, modernize them, and then mass produce them. Subculture research is like a spotlight that shines a spotlight on a cultural space in search of originality and authenticity - with the fashion industry hot on its heels. Thanks to the Internet, digital and mobile communications, the world is becoming faster and reality is becoming virtual. Now the decisive factor is the flow of information - from the catwalk to manufacturers, and from final buyers to fashion creators.As a result " Street style” and designer fashion quickly moved closer to each other, and fashion as a whole became more monolithic. In the era of globalization, boundaries are being erased in fashion.

The ability to dress fashionably, in accordance with the ideas inherent in a given age, is perceived as an extremely important feature that allows a teenager to be considered “almost an adult.” Those who are still dressed according to the standards of children's fashion are often called "nerds", "skins", "hi", "touched", or "babies who go shopping hand in hand with mommy." All these unflattering reviews emphasize that "nerds" are perceived as people with great oddities or are completely marginalized in the peer group, and all because they do not do what is considered normal for young people, that is, they do not listen to the opinions of children their own age, they don’t pay attention to what they’re wearing, etc. And it is precisely, most often, such “nerds” who fall under the influence of subcultures, so that in the future they will “stand out from the crowd.”

Thus, the connection between subcultures and fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion as a whole, they in some sense give birth to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes possible the emergence and the development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns mostly the external image, some individual elements. But, as was said earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all areas of the life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence.

So, the topic of subcultures and fashion is one of the most interesting topics. It is vast and multifaceted. It is vital and is observed every day. Subcultures and fashion do not stand still, they develop and change. They are increasingly embracing humanity.

8. Bibliography

S.I. Levikova / “Youth subculture” / textbook / M., / Grand / 2004.

B.D. Parygin / Social psychology: textbook / 2nd edition / M., / 2003.

Fashion theory. No. 10, winter 2008-2009. Dick Hebdige. Chapters from the book “Subculture: the meaning of style”

A. Vasiliev/ “Russian Fashion”/M.,/2004.

www.hazzen.com/publications/articles/istorija_subkultury_hippi_chast_i

www.glamur.3dn.ru/forum/39-250-1

“Bike Freak” magazine issue No. 6, article “Guys in Leather”

Magazine "POP» autumn- winter 2005

Subcultures of 20th century England. Style, ideology.

Introduction. Subculture concept

Subculture(Latin sub - under and cultura - culture; subculture) - a concept denoting a part of the culture of a society that differs in its behavior from the prevailing majority, as well as social groups of bearers of this culture. The concept of “subculture” usually expresses an opinion strictly opposite to the ideas of morality and the laws of society; young people who wanted self-expression also needed to distinguish “us” from “strangers”, dividing according to musical, fashion and life preferences. This phenomenon became especially widespread after the end of the war, when 70% of young people joined one or another subculture. This article examined the most vibrant and significant subcultures of England in the twentieth century.

In the mental map you can see a larger number of subcultures of England of the twentieth century, as well as those that were studied in more detail in the article.

Using the Venngage infographic resource, the most important aspects of the style, values, worldview and image of the three subcultures under study are clearly and concisely displayed.

Teddy boys

British researchers name the first youth subcultural group «" Teddy boys"» . This group announced itself in the middle 1950 -s. " Teddy", earning extra money for their pocket money through unskilled labor, they became relatively financially independent from their families and could spend this money on their own needs. Their needs were small: cafes, cinema, discos. But their main cultural niche was American rock and roll. As English scientists note, the appearance of “ Teddy“combined the features of an English gentleman and an American sharpie: a long drape jacket with a velvet collar, piped trousers, micro-pore boots, and a lace tie. " Teddy“were troublemakers in British peace in cinemas and dance halls, where they actively mastered rock and roll. This process often ended in mass fights and acts of vandalism. " Teddy“were conservative values, sometimes they were characterized by aggressive nationalism (race riots). " Teddy"disappeared to 1964. However, it was they who spoke about youth not as an age group, but as a social group.

Mods

"British phenomenon" - fashion- appeared in 1962. But there is an opinion that the first mention of fashions in the media in 1962-63 years was, in fact, not the beginning of the movement, but its swan song. It was then that ideology was sacrificed for popularization and accessibility. Mods lived in their own small world, where only a select few ended up. And it was enough to exchange a few words, take a quick glance at the clothes to understand whether it was “yours” or not. It was then that what later came to be called the “dress code” of youth subcultures appeared. They despised popular culture, designed for the “average man in the street”, for them this very term was humiliating. But, despite all these conventions, it cannot be said that mods had its own manifesto.

Many of them, at the first opportunity, left their parents' house and rented some rundown house on the outskirts or even in the suburbs for little money. Housing was not their main expense - the lion's share of their earnings went to clothes, music and scooters.

Mods, the so-called first wave, preferred to listen to American black jazz, blues and soul - then these were similar styles, and they were often simply called soul. Of the British performers, they were interested in the work of Georgie Fame, Chris Farlowe, Zoot Money Big Roll Band, Long John Baldry, Graham Bond Organization, etc. The discs of these record companies were initially rare in Foggy Albion; one could be proud of them no less than the road clothes and a good scooter. In general, records in mod culture were and remain one of the most valuable fetishes.

Punks

Can't be ignored punk culture. Word " punk" V English language has many meanings, but before the advent of punk rock, it was mostly used as a swear word.

Exactly first wave punk In Great Britain ( 1976 -1978 ) counts punk era and is considered by most researchers. Two main trends can be identified in it. Firstly, there was "core" of punk- an environment in which the proclaimed slogans were the center of worldview and social action. This environment can be confidently attributed to the phenomenon of counterculture, to protest formation. On the other hand, the idea of ​​punk is being used, pseudo-punks, using the language of the subculture, its style, but ignoring its ideological content. The purpose of such cultural entities- making money and vulgarizing the concepts of culture Punka. In this case, they can be defined as phenomena of mass culture.

Punks are distinguished by colorful and shocking image. Many punks dye their hair bright, unnatural colors, comb it and fix it with hairspray, gel or beer so that it stands up straight. In the 80s, the mohawk hairstyle became fashionable among punks. Sneakers are also popular among punks. Biker jacket - was adopted as a rock and roll attribute from 50's, when motorcycle and rock 'n' roll were inseparable components. The first wave of punks sought to return to rock music the same deliberate cockiness and drive that the mass commercialization of music had taken away over time. The “DEAD” style prevails in clothing. Punks put skulls and signs on clothes and accessories, wear wristbands and collars made of leather with spikes, rivets and chains. Many punks get tattoos. Representatives of this movement love torn, frayed jeans, and attach chains from dog leashes to jeans. The American group "Ramones" is considered the first group to play music in the "punk rock" style. The first British punk bands are recognized as the Sex Pistols, The Damned and The Clash.

Items of clothing

With the help of the WordItOut resource, it was possible to investigate which elements of clothing these three subcultures paid the most or least attention to.

At this point word cloud you can see the differences and similarities of the subcultures being studied. For the study, a text was taken that collected the main features of the style and images of Teddy, Mods and Punks. Considering similarities and differences data on youth trends of the twentieth century, we can conclude that In all three subcultures, special attention was paid to shoes, and in particular to boots.

Influence on modern culture

Having considered just a few informal youth movements in Great Britain, one can see a strong influence on the younger generation as a whole. Teenagers have always constituted a special socio-demographic group, but in our time a specific teenage culture has developed, which, along with other social factors, plays a big role in the development of a student. " Youth subculture"- a system of values ​​and norms of behavior, tastes, forms of communication, different from the culture of adults and characterizing the life of adolescents and young people from about 10 to 20 years old.

Informal youth movements have received noticeable development in 20th century. Youth subculture, being one of the institutions and factors in the socialization of schoolchildren, plays controversial role and has an ambiguous effect on adolescents. The youth subculture wears entertainment and consumer character, and not cognitive, constructive and creative. In Russia, as throughout the world, it focuses on Western values: American way of life in its light version, mass culture, and not on values national culture. The aesthetic tastes and preferences of schoolchildren are often quite primitive and are formed mainly by television and music. These tastes and values ​​are supported periodicals, modern mass art, which has a demoralizing and dehumanizing effect.

Hello.

Bikers on hefty Harleys are not the only subculture of the two-wheeled family. There are several more branches of evolution, some of which turned out to be dead ends. This article will focus on the Mods, a youth subculture of the 50s that originated in Great Britain and used scooters as a means of transportation and an object of worship.

Yes, and I don’t give a damn if anyone out there doesn’t like scooter riders! Fashion was one of the most stylish subcultures and for its time was quite a powerful movement, quite competing with the subculture!

So, let's go!

The term "Mod" comes from the word "modernism". The Mod subculture began in the 1950s in London and reached its peak by the mid-1960s. Mods were a youth subculture that had special requirements for appearance. Initially, clothing preference was given to tailored suits, later - just suits from Italian and British brands.

As for music, preferences were given to American soul, SKA, beat and R&B. In addition to the fact that representatives of this subculture were primarily associated with the consumption of huge amounts of amphetamines and noisy parties in London clubs, they rode scooters.

Story.

The Mods were a youth subculture consisting of representatives of the working class who were oriented toward Italian fashion. The Mods would get together on scooters and hang out in clubs or cafes in London, since Pubs at that time closed at around 11:00 pm, and cafes were open until the morning and, in addition, there were jukeboxes.

The mods were not united, they did not have some kind of unifying idea, there were no clubs like the Outlaw motorcycle club of bikers, where the ideas of brotherhood and unity of the motorcycle club were promoted. They were just young people who gathered at night and partied until the morning. And yet, they left a mark on history with their bright appearance and unique tuning of their scooters.

By the summer of 1966, the Mod movement had already lost momentum. Not only did a stronger and more massive hippie movement emerge, and some of the Mods got off amphetamine and switched to weed :), but clothing fashion also underwent significant changes. And in the late 60s, the most radical representatives of this subculture also branched off from the Mods, calling themselves skinheads... Somehow even strange against the backdrop of general hippie sentiments...

That's how everything fell apart. Then there were several revivals in the 1980s and 2000s, but these were already short-term phenomena; nevertheless, it must be admitted that the Mod subculture died out in the 60s.

Characteristic features of the Mods style.

Fashion.

The Mods were formed from the first post-war generation that had a small surplus of money. Deliberately elegant clothing - suits for men and short skirts for girls - is a natural reaction to the hardships their parents had to endure.

Clubs and music.

Clubs: The Roaring Twenties, The Scene, La Discothèque, The Flamingo and The Marquee in London.

Music: The Rolling Stones, the Yardbirds and The The Kinks and, of course, The Who.

Scooters.

Well, we finally got to motor scooters, which is why Mods ended up on this site.

Mods used Italian stamps scooters such as Vespa or Lambretta. Since the Mods consisted of working-class youth, for many these scooters were the only way to escape from the drabness of everyday life.

Modov scooters were subjected to strong, but not expensive external tuning. Their scooters were painted in two colors, and they often had chewing gum candy wrappers stuck to them. Windshields were traditionally marked with the owner's name.

And, of course, the most characteristic feature of the subculture was the abundance of tourist trunks, arches and fog lights on scooters.