Mods (Eng. Mods from Modernism, Modism) is a British youth subculture. It appeared in the late 50s of the twentieth century and existed until about the end of the 60s. Mods have become a kind of successor to the teddy boys. The post-war generation, unlike their predecessors, got the opportunity to earn more money and, accordingly, spend more on clothes and accessories. From teddy boys, fashion has adopted panache in clothing and attention to detail. Mods wore fitted Italian-style suits (usually tailored), jumpers, shirts and tight ties, Chelsea shoes, girls - short dresses, pencil skirts, flat shoes. Elegance, moderation and accuracy - these are the features of a typical representative of mods. The mod subculture was rather closed, they consciously opposed themselves to traditional British society with its values, listened to American music (jazz, rhythm and blues, soul, rock and roll), collected records, carefully followed fashion and took care of to look cool and stylish. Mods usually moved along the street on motor scooters, and parkas (military jackets with a hood trimmed with fur and a loose fit) were put on top of smart clothes to protect them from dirt and dust. Mods can be called the dandies of the 20th century, despite the fact that they were practically all working class and often spent their entire paychecks on a suit and a cool motor scooter with lots of mirrors.
By the end of the 60s, the mod subculture ceased to be such by promoting it to the masses with the help of radio and television. Later, the British punks of the 70s adopted something from the mods.
When the flourishing post-war economy of England gave young people jobs, it created a class - a class of young people who earned decent money by physical labor (these were factories, repair shops - in general, not the work of clerks). But everything is connected in the economy, and new enterprises have created many jobs for white-collar workers - clerks, managers, etc. The young people who came to these places were better educated and more "modern" - they listened to "progressive" music, wore fashionable clothes, ridden on scooters that protect them from dirt and do not leave oil stains on clothes, etc. and so on. They were mostly city dwellers, starting with teenagers. Rockers - everything remained in force - these guys were "simpler". Leather is protection from weather, falls and oil (when the first Japanese motorcycles were tested by English motorcycle journalists, one of them enthusiastically wrote that after a trip there was not a single oil stain on his trousers!). Music - rock and roll, rockabilly. Conversations are rude, education is low. In general, these were the heirs of the "teddy boys", while the mods can be called the heirs of the "dandy". Yes, and most rockers lived in the suburbs, small towns or villages.
All the prerequisites for skirmishes were at hand. And the main reason was not class differences, but partly the cultural and aesthetic contradictions generated by them. This was not a class confrontation - it was a confrontation generated by the conflict between a new wave of young people with new values and those who "rebelled" a few years earlier. But neither of them were "representatives of evil." They were simply separated by too many, and this could not but cause controversy. The rockers considered the Mods to be snobs and jerks. The Mods considered the Rockers to be outdated and grubby. In general, it was difficult to coexist peacefully. Thus was born (mainly thanks to the press and cinema, but more on that later) the legend of Mods vs. Rockers The Birth of Mods (by Modernists). It's hard to say when this confrontation began. Rockers, as a subculture, existed even before the early 60s. Mods were "spotted" in the press in 1962. This year, the UK economy experienced the second boom since the war. Naturally, this boom led to a cultural boom. New music, new ideas, a new "youthful" vehicle - Vespa or Lambretta - all this was the ideal stage for a new movement. And the Mods were on the crest of this wave.
So, what did these guys look like and how did they live. Main interests: Music: modern jazz, The Who, Small Faces, The Jam, The Yardbirds. Clothing: fashionable youth clothes (pseudo-military style, ponchos, short raincoats, tennis shirts, combat boots, moccasins - everything is bright and expensive). Shapeless army parka jackets were extremely popular. They perfectly protected from the weather and did not hesitate in choosing what to wear under them. Transport: Italian scooters, Vespa or Lambretta, sometimes hung with dozens of chrome-plated mirrors, arcs, antennas. High back seats, tires with white stripes. The mod scooter was usually polished to a mirror finish, but did not feature functional tuning.
Groups: Aces are the elite, most advanced, educated and undeniably recognized leaders of the Mauds movement. Tickets are mostly teenagers, very aggressive, amphetamine-fueled, not very imaginative and practically following in the footsteps of the Aces - as the mods themselves believe - a little closer to the working class. Meeting places: Aces are serious music clubs, where an interesting and new music first of all. The Tickets have dance halls and nightclubs, mostly in East London. Behavior: The Mauds were younger and as a result more aggressive than the Rockers. Mods were mostly younger (under 20), while rockers in the 60s were mostly 21-25. Switchblades have been quite popular with mods. In addition, they sewed fishhooks on the lapels of their coats - in a fight, grabbing the lapels of the collar was dangerous. Most of brawls were initiated by Mauds, paradoxically. The rockers were more into how to "make the tone" (100 miles per hour, and only in the dark and in bad weather), modifying the motorcycle and racing from traffic light to traffic light between cafes. Almost all serious skirmishes took place "on the road". On Saturdays and the so-called "bank holiday" the Mods and Rockers went out (not too different from most of England) to the coast - to Marget, Brighton or Clacton. In those situations when such mass departures collided with each other, a fight arose. It is strange that there were no particularly large skirmishes. Ordinary residents of coastal cities were not involved in this and did not suffer in these skirmishes. Suffered mostly awnings and tables on the beaches.
England in the 60s spawned a lot of youth movements. Nevertheless, English society remained for the most part a society prone to traditionalism and some kind of "moral principles". It was this society that reacted extremely negatively to Mods and Rockers, not distinguishing or separating them. In these movements, the English inhabitants saw the danger of the destruction of the usual morality. The press played one of the decisive roles in this. Describing rockers (already habitually positioned as "bad guys") and mods, English newspapers created not just an image of an unusual social phenomenon, but the image of a threat to English morality and life principles. This, in turn, escalated negative attitudes from the townsfolk, the police and the government. May 17, 1964 was one of the "bank holidays". As always, many Englishmen decided to spend this day on the coast - the weather promised to be good. By a strange coincidence (it was by no means planned) at the same time a huge number of Mods and Rockers decided to spend this day in Brighton. Naturally, a collision was inevitable. According to eyewitness accounts and now elderly former mods and rockers, it was Mods who started everything. There were a lot of them in the city. At some point (no one can say what was the original reason), the mods, armed with stones from the beach, rushed to "hunt" the rockers. two pretty large groups mods and rockers (although in fairness - it should be noted that there were MUCH more mods) clashed in a mass brawl on the beach in Brighton. Gradually riots and fights moved to the streets of Brighton. About 100 police officers hastily assembled were unable to stop the clashes. In the end, the warring parties were dispersed, more than 50 people were arrested. The trial of those arrested was a public process, carefully exaggerated by the press. However, no one was killed firearms was not used, and the scandal did not last long on the front pages of newspapers. But the label was stuck forever. And without division into rockers and mods.
The judge who led the trial called the rioters "Sawdust Caesars" - it's hard to say what this means for the British, but the meaning is clear. The term took root and firmly settled in the brains of an ordinary Englishman. This incident was and remains the most famous episode in the history of Mods and Rockers, and not because of the seriousness real events, but because of the press coverage and, above all, because of the film made in 1979 "Quadrophenia" (reminds me of the Hollister riots, doesn't it?). This film to this day is a cult for the British, and above all, for the people of Brighton. For tourists, there are tours of the history of the "battle" in Brighton and the filming locations of the film. Surprisingly, the much more serious incident, which took place on Easter Sunday of the same 1964 in Clacton, attracted less attention. This incident is considered the first officially recorded mass clash of Mods and Rockers. Two hefty groups that clashed "on the road" staged a massive brawl, using beach umbrellas as weapons. Many windows in nearby houses were damaged, and 97 people were arrested. Newspapers came out with headlines "Day of Terror by Scooter Group" (Daily Telegraph) and "Savages Invaded Coast - 97 Arrests" (Daily Mirror). But a film was not made about this story - and it has sunk into oblivion.
Rockers left first. It was a natural process - and the Mods didn't last long either. By 1966, their movement simply became uninteresting to the new youth - the hippies came. Mods are a thing of the past, leaving behind a tour of the places of the "big Brighton battle", the film "Quadrophenia" and new term moral panic. Actually, the term appeared only in 1987 - after the publication of research by the sociologist Cohen, who built his theory by observing the clashes of rockers and mods, and the film in 1979 - but the characters of both were still recognizable. Strange was the fate of those Mods who, in their own classification, stood at the bottom rung of the philosophy and aesthetics of the movement. They gradually transformed - Doctor Martins boots appeared, previously short-cropped hair began to be simply shaved off, elements of clothing from young people from the working classes were added to mod army jackets. They retained some of the basic attributes of mods - music, Levi's jeans, Fred Perry sportswear - but that's about all. This is how skinheads arose.
But to this day, older people - former Mods and the Rockers arrange "re-unions" in places where they spent their turbulent youth. The stronghold of the former Rockers was and remains the legendary "Ace Cafe" in London - this cafe has turned into a historical center. There you can not only drink coffee or beer in an authentic setting, but also buy classic rocker motorcycle clothing and accessories, exchange technical information or find the missing part to the lovingly restored Triumph or Norton. Regular official "re-unions" of rockers are also held there and their motocross starts there. For Mods, these places are concentrated by geographic location. In Brighton, you can go to the Jump the Gun store and buy authentic Mod clothes and accessories. Regular "re-unions" take place mainly in the same cafes where they once met, but all this has acquired the character of classic scooter clubs, and not a meeting of mods.
according to the site "Neoformal"
research work (project)
"Men's youth fashion as a subculture"
Fulfilled: Gaifullin
Vildan Rafisovich
Pupil 10 "A" class
MBOU secondary school No. 58
Soviet r. Kazan
Supervisor: teacher
technologies:
Martynova E.P.
Kazan, 2016
Content.
1. Introduction
2. Purpose and tasks.
3 . History of the term,
4. Birth of subcultures.
5 . Maincharacteristics of youth subcultures.
7. Creators of fashion of the third millennium.
8. Fashion and youth subcultures in our time.
9 .Conclusion
10. Bibliography.
"It's scary to say how often the most exciting clothing concepts are found in the poorest people"
Designer Christian Lacroix.
Introduction.
When you walk through our wonderful city, you involuntarily pay attention to how my peers are dressed. And it can be very interesting in appearance to determine which social group of people he belongs to. And when he has an unusual outfit in general, it is immediately clear which subculture he prefers. And I wanted to consider the phenomenon of youth fashion as a subculture.
Modern society is not homogeneous. Each person is a special microcosm, with his own interests, problems, worries. But at the same time, many of us similar interests and requests. Sometimes, in order to satisfy them, it is necessary to unite with other people, because together it is easier to achieve the goal. This is the social mechanism for the formation of subcultures - associations of people with interests that do not contradict the values of traditional culture, but complement it. And youth subcultures (which are often based on hobbies for various genres of music, sports, literature, etc.) are no exception.
Adolescents at all times constituted a special socio-demographic group, but in our time a specific adolescent culture has developed, which, along with other social factors, plays big role in the development of the modern adolescent. Sociologists first addressed this issue in the 1960s.XXcentury. In Russia, since the late 80s, the attention of researchers to youth subcultures has become more noticeable. In recent years, much more attention has been paid to youth subculture.
Each subculture has its own fashion and style. A single style unites people, whether it be music, clothing or lifestyle.
No matter how subcultures try to isolate themselves from a common base culture, it is very difficult to completely autonomize.
2. The purpose of my work :
consider the concepts of "fashion" and "subculture"; find out how these concepts are related.
Tasks:
consider the main characteristics and aspects of youth subcultures,
highlight their features, show their relationship and influence on the formation of fashion, tastes and outlook of the younger generation.
study the literature on the topic;
Relevance: this topic is due to the emergence of recent a large number diverse subcultures and the growing interest of researchers and society in this phenomenon.
Hypothesis: subcultures have a connection with fashion and have a mutual influence on each other.
3. The history of the term the concept of "subculture", "fashion".
Let's start with the history of the term. In 1950, the American sociologist David Reisman, in his research, developed the concept of a subculture as a group of people who deliberately choose the style and values preferred by a minority. subcultures attract people with similar tastes who are not satisfied with generally accepted standards and values. The style of the youth subculture turns out to be not just its external expression; through their rituals and iconic forms, it challenges the existing moral order and the prevailing ideology. In the USSR, the term " Informal associations youth."
The subculture has the following characteristic features: specific style of life and behavior of the participants; specific norms, values, worldview peculiar to this social group; also the presence of a more or less explicit initiative center that generates ideas.
The word "fashion" comes from the Latin "modus" (measure, method, image, rule, norm). The Latin "modus" was used by the philosophy of the XVII-XVIII centuries. as a transient property of matter (object). In Russian, the word "fashion" appears under Peter I and is recorded in the first Russian dictionaries.
The history of fashion is as old as the history of costume. From the moment when a person discovered the significance of clothing as a means of protection from the adverse effects of nature, it was not long before he began to think about its aesthetic and stylizing function. Clothing says a lot, it exposes certain thoughts and characteristics of a person. Subculture - a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. The subculture creates its own unique culture, including a special value system, language, behavior, clothing and other aspects, and therefore has a connection with the fashion phenomenon.
4. Birth of subcultures.
It is customary to separate the concepts of "subculture" and "youth subculture". It is believed that the youth subculture is a culture created by young people for themselves, it is a “not for everyone” culture, a cultural subsystem within the official system. It determines the lifestyle, value hierarchy and mentality of its bearers. Youth subculture is a special case, one of the many subcultures in modern society. The epithet "youth" immediately defines a certain cultural niche occupied by people united by the principle of age. Age in this case is a very important demographic characteristic. Taking into account the special psychology of age in culture is undoubtedly important, since it leaves a significant imprint on spirituality and mentality. The youth subculture, according to the German scientist L. Hauser, is "a form of expression of the process of searching and mastering the worldview." In other words, youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon, it is special form life search. Subculture - a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. A subculture creates its own unique culture, including a particular value system, language, demeanor, clothing, and other aspects.
For my work, this feature of subcultures is big interest, as it all has a connection with the fashion phenomenon.
From birth, a child tries to repeat the behavior of his parents and other adults around him. For young children, their parents are role models. But the older the child, the closer his age to adolescence, the more kids separate from their parents, they want to be different from them, and not only to their parents, but also to the society around them. This is the reason for the emergence of youth subcultures. Young people are united in separate movements, which differ from the overwhelming majority in behavior, clothing and lifestyle in general. The main function of the youth subculture is to enable young people to stand out from others, to fulfill themselves, to find friends with the same views.
Each subculture of youth has its own attributes,your style of dress and in music, their websites. There are even gestures specific to certain subcultures.
For a teenager in the 50s rock and roll was a revolution in literally everything: in the manner of dancing, speaking, walking, in the views on the world, on power, on parents, and most importantly, a revolution in a person’s views on himself. This is how rock culture was born. And among young people it has become really fashionable.
In the 1960s arosesubculture "Modos" (Fashion).
Mods pick up on the Teddy Boys (1950) for their dapper dressing style. Their motto is "moderation and accuracy!". The Mods wore perfectly fitted suits, the chemical marvel of the early 60s—snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, narrow-toed boots, faux leather jackets with zippers, neat hairdos. In 1962, the legendary Beatles became followers of the Modos style. Youth fashion, booming in this decade, has its influence on the classic haute couture houses. Such houses offered their clients an “ennobled” version of youth fashion: knee-length skirts, suits “modernized” with bright colors and new lines, classic “boats” with low heels, etc. The fashion of the late 1960s is influenced by the new youthsubcultures - "hippies".
Diffuser hippie style brought bright ethnic oriental motifs into fashion, a deliberate shabby effect and, among other things, jeans, which were something of a symbol of protest against bourgeois uniforms. With their appearance and behavior, hippies emphasized the denial of norms official culture. In search of individuality, young rebels mixed clothes different styles, times and peoples. They sang the value old clothes. From here went the effect of wear and torn jeans.
It is known that some subcultures continue to live to this day, while others cease to exist. It also has a connection with the fashion phenomenon. Fashion quickly responds to changing needs of young people. And sometimes ahead of their change, creating new ones. If something ceases to be relevant, it goes out of Everyday life into history. Pagers, for example, can now only be found in a museum, but at one time it was fashionable. The same situation with subcultures. Zutiz, rockabilly, beatniks, hippies have long disappeared (if there are, then very few). But now such a subculture as emo, for example, has gained immense popularity among young people. Such a conclusion can be drawn from the abundance of young people dressed in this style. People who don’t consider themselves emo dress like that, they just think it’s beautiful. Hairstyles that came into fashion thanks to this subculture also took root very well. Such subcultures owe their mass character to the fashion created by the youth media.
Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into common culture and may even become a classic in any field. For example, let's takesubculture "dudes". It appeared in the USSR and existed from 1940 to the beginning. 1960s. As a reference, this subculture had a Western (mainly American) lifestyle. The dudes stood out for their bright clothes, original manner of speaking (special slang). They had a special interest in Western music and dance. Western fashion still has a huge impact on our country. Unfortunately, this applies not only to clothing... Subcultures are also an indicator of this. It is difficult to recall at least one subculture that would originally have arisen in Russia. Basically, they all came to us from the West.
Another subculture directly related to fashion ishipsters or indie kids. The name speaks for itself. It comes from English word hip, which translates as "to be in the subject." Fashion is perhaps the main component of hipster culture.
5. Main characteristics of youth subcultures.
Each informal belongs to one of the types of youth subcultures: (below are the most common subspecies of subcultures at present)
Types of subculturesSubspecies
Description of subspecies
Musical
Subcultures based on fans of various genres of music
Alternatives
fans of alternative rock, rapcore
Goths
goth rock fans
Metalworkers
fans of heavy metal and its varieties
Punks
punk rock fans
rockers
rock music fans
Hip hop (rappers)
rap and hip hop fans
Skinheads
ska lovers
emo
emocore fans
Image
Subcultures distinguished by style in clothing and behavior
supporters of the movement do not have a specific ideology, they prefer electronic club music.
Fashion
snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with zippers, neat hairstyles
The subculture is based on the imitation of adolescents of the "golden youth".
Glamourers
masters. The main component is the desire for a life advertised in the glamorous "men's" and "women's" magazines (the pursuit of fashion, clothing and cosmetics).
Freaks
dudes
"Deceased" soviet movement inspired by western lifestyle.
Military
Paramilitary style.
Political and ideological
Subcultures distinguished by public beliefs
Antifa
Hippie
.
.
.
Informals
.
.
By hobby
Subcultures shaped by hobbies
Bikers
motorcycle lovers
Writers
graffiti fans
tracers
parkour lovers
hackers
Fans of computer hacking (often illegally)
For other hobbies
Subcultures based on cinema, games, animation, literature.
Otaku
anime fans Japanese animation
Gamers
Fans of computer games
Football hooligans
6. Relationship between fashion and subculture. Youth men's fashion - for the young and stylish. Fashion and subculture occupy an important place in modern society. Both of these concepts are quite complex and interesting to study, and both of them are components of the culture as a whole. Fashion today penetrates into all spheres of life.Even the behavior or lifestyle some people choose is influenced by fashion trends. In this case, we can talk about the existence of a fashion for certain subcultures, as well as the mutual influence of these phenomena on each other. Fashion in general always strives for a young and fresh impression: it wants to rejuvenate. At the same time, the essence of fashion - change - is closer to the dynamic pace of life of young people.Fashion acts as a special social sign, a symbol of prestige. Fashion focuses on recognized leaders, unites in accordance with in a certain way behavior, stimulates interest in new things. The compensatory function allows you to fill unsatisfied or insufficiently satisfied needs, acting as a regulator of social needs. Fashion is a social phenomenon and therefore should be studied and studied under different angles vision. Youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon, it is a special form of life search. Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into the general culture and can even become a classic in any field. Often fashion creates subcultures. No matter how hard the representatives of this or that subculture try to stand out and retreat from the official fashion, in the end it turns out that the more massive the subculture becomes, the more likely it will be fashionable and vice versa - the more fashionable among the youth the subculture is, the more massive it will be.Thus, the connection of subcultures with fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion in general, they in a sense give rise to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes it possible and development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns for the most part the external image, some individual elements. But, as mentioned earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all spheres of life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence. Important role youth subculture in that it provides an opportunity for self-development and self-realization to its participants. As well as the opportunity to create your own reality and culture. It is not limited to household items or clothing. We came to the conclusion that there are practically no boundaries for fashion: it can penetrate science, art, politics, ideology, etc. Sometimes elements of such fashion go beyond the subculture and become quite acceptable to the general population, moving into the category of "official" fashion. Fashion for a certain style of music, clothes, etc. can become the basis of a subculture, and also determines the development or cessation of its existence.
The image for a representative of a subculture is not only clothes, it is a demonstration of the beliefs and values that the subculture promotes.As mentioned earlier, fashion is associated with the instinct to imitate. This is one of the contradictions inherent in young people - to be like everyone else and at the same time stand out. This contradiction is resolved thanks to the subculture.For example, a goth among “friends” will be like everyone else, but compared to people who do not belong to this subculture, he will be a “black sheep”. The goal is achieved, it will be noticed. Fashion is art, fashion is an endless list of victims, fashion is a lifestyle, fashion is a philosophy, fashion is outrageous. Modern fashion is becoming more democratic, it no longer imposes strict rules, allowing everyone to express their individuality. Fashion is cyclical, so things that used to be popular often get a second life. And if you restore the history of this or that thing, you can find a connection with a wide variety of subcultures.
7. Creators of fashion of the third millennium.
Rejection of a uniform style.Among the countless sources of inspiration for designers, retrospectives occupy the most important place in recent times. Even the greatest couturiers usually draw inspiration from well-known human experiences. Genius often manifests itself precisely in rereading well-known chapters of human history with brilliance.Another source remains street fashion and the fashion of designers working for the "street" and subcultures. Since the 1990s, designers have been eclectically mixing elements of several different subcultural styles and playing freely with historical, intercultural and futuristic influences to create new fashion.
John Galliano admitted that the inspiration for his spring-summer 2005 collection was just one line from the song - it was the phrase "Napoleon in rags" from Bob Dylan's classic song LikeaRollingStone. The show itself was more like a performance: videos, live music, singers, rock band Uminski, violins and viols and rock stars in the front row. Rock musicians, according to the custom of all rock dinosaurs, broke both guitars and drums by the end of the performance.
Ripped jeans and rock and roll introducedKarl Lagerfeld at Paris Fashion Week in her spring/summer 2005 collection for Chanel, inspired by two great icons of the 20th century, James Dean and Coco Chanel. From the first - an abundance of ripped denim jackets and worn breeches with tweed and rock and roll leather chic, and from the second - glamorous and feminine puffy corset dresses and sexy butterfly swimsuits.
Showing the last autumn men's collection"swing, dudes and rock and roll" from sirPaul Smith, the soundtrack of which was composed entirely of songs by contemporary young British and American bands playing rock and roll, Britpop, post-post-punk, junk, testified to the designer's genuine love for non-commercial rock music and referred to the image of a swinging intellectual from Chelsea of the late 60s. Paul Smith suggested to his aristocratic intellectual that he should not hesitate to mix everything in his wardrobe. Large caps of dockers and factory workers with expensive tweed jackets and tight trousers. And all this - with shoes "under the zebra" with elongated noses. This is exactly how, according to Smith, the London dude reincarnated from the 60s should look like in the winter of 2006.
Street style showed the House of Christian Dior on Paris Fashion Week in the fall/winter 2010/2011 collection. Stretched sleeves and a "loose loop" effect - "new chic" from John Galliano. He invited the brilliant audience to present themselves in a torn knitted dress, in a slant jacket with raw edges, in randomly selected clothes. "Would you be shocked if I put on something more comfortable?" - these words of the heroine Jean Harlow from the film by Horvard Hughes "Hell's Angels" are taken as an epigraph!
Often, truly great designers find ideas literally in their own backyard. Two years agoGiorgio Armani created a collection inspired by images of workers from of Eastern Europe. How can a luxury designer come up with ideas for luxury clothing in a world of poor expatriates? My new collection Armani updated with sideways berets in the style of the 1960s.
Glam and rock by Jean-Paul Gaultier Paris Fashion Week. "More glam! David Bowie thanks! T. Rex, thank you! ”, - this is how leading French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier began his seasonal show, loudly urging the audience gathered in Paris to get up from their seats and move to the beat of energetic music.
Models began to appear on the catwalk in bright elastic leggings, returning to the 1980s, sparkling shapeless tops, torn sheepskin coats with shiny leather prints, sweaters with huge fluffy collars, cape blouses, golden leggings and translucent tops with crosses. This is how Jean-Paul Gaultier saw the next autumn and winter of 2009/2010.
Today there is an ever-increasing popularity of the hippie style. neo hippie and ethnic romanticism took over the podium. Dresses and skirts embroidered with flowers and beads, oriental motifs, intricate ornaments, hand painting, asymmetry are very relevant. Skirts trimmed with braid, T-shirts decorated with rhinestones. Long, floor-length dresses with colorful embroidery. Tunics worn over trousers. Accessories: pouches, handbags, frayed bags, belts embroidered with beads.
000 CollectionZegna spring / summer 2015-Z Zegna was born under the sign of Pitti Uomo, so you can quite rightly find designer influences this seasonPaul Surridge and Murray Scallon that presented their current proposals for the Italian label.
Ermenegildo Zegna presented the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture spring/summer 2015 collection with a fashion show in the form of a feature film directed by Johan Söderberg. An unconventional cut, a different look at the latest spring-summer trends in men's fashion - all forecasts from Stefano Pilati. The starting point is architectural restraint and classic elegance in premium men's business attire. The silhouettes are perfectly tailored in volume and cut. The main theme of this collection was to be the study of the original male strength and energy, intellectual masculinity.
It should be noted that the designer offered up quite a few striped things. Where black and blue, where gray and dark red, black and white or beige with sandy stripes - they are found in various widths, vertical and horizontal, even oblique and circular lines, and both on shirts and jackets, coats and three-piece suits. Coats and wide trousers are cut in the usual loose way, which just reach your ankles. As for the choice of fabrics - freedom in their combination, the main thing is that the combinations of materials are pleasant for the body, so that the air circulates freely and with inspiration. 
Youth destinations are too diverse and changeable to single out a specific style, so just focus on your ideas about convenience and your sense of style.
8. Youth subcultures and fashion in our time.
important place modern youth fashion is occupied by clothes in the style of various subcultures and simply style directions. Most young people belong to some direction - hip-hop, goths, punks, hippies - and dress according to their hobbies. The main criteria in choosing such clothes are convenience and the ability to emphasize one's belonging to a particular subculture.Hip Hopper easy to know by wide pants and a t-shirt that does not hinder movement during the dance. Hippies prefer loose fit, natural fabrics, bright colors. Black color of clothes in combination with gloomy make-up - the business card is ready. Particularly noteworthy are retro distractions and fascination with recreating the styles of ancient civilizations, for the summer - these are the motifs of Egypt and Ancient Greece, in spring and autumn - it can be a saturated East and in winter the expected aspiration to the North.
Universal clothing for the city. However, youth fashion includes not only subcultures, there are also simpler and more universal styles. One of them is casual comfortable clothes for everyday wear in the city. Casual is characterized by a mixture of styles, a combination of dissimilar elements - for example, shorts and a jacket, a business suit and sneakers, jeans and a formal shirt. The highlight of casual style is the opportunity to create new looks every day, combining and experimenting. .
The conclusion is simple: clothing style is a calling card, which, even before the first words, is able to tell a lot about its owner. That is why it is important to create an image, taking into account your own preferences, and that is why there are so many directions in fashion: so that everyone can find themselves. Youth men's fashion is a fairly broad concept. Here you can meet the styles of various subcultures, and just a comfortable casual clothes. The fashion portal Manero.ru offers to understand in more detail what youth men's fashion is.
Men's youth clothing
Men's youth fashion in the coming season is, first of all,denim fashion. Skinny jeans can be paired with colorful printed t-shirts or plain white t-shirts that are the hit of the season. In cool weather, the T-shirt can be replaced with an elongated sweater with a striped pattern. In general, the stripe will become the most popular print of the spring-summer 2015 season. It adorns T-shirts, sweaters, and jackets. The classic nautical stripe, as well as multi-colored stripes, both horizontal and vertical, will be in fashion.
Sport style This year it is distinguished by aristocracy and reminds more of sailing regattas and golf clubs than of backyard basketball courts.
To every fashionable young man you need to get a classic knitted polo shirt - white, dark cherry or blue. Another required element fashionable men's wardrobe - loose soft chinos made of cotton in light colors, which can be an original alternative to jeans. Interesting models can be found in the new collections of European brands such as Gray Connection, John Devin, Mod, Esprit, Tom Tailor and many others.Clash of classics and avant-garde: as always, two opposites met on the catwalks - strict classic style and the image of a fashionista-rebel. Both of these areas of the fashion industry find their customers. Young people are also happy to choose traditional jackets and blazers, skillfully combining them with jeans and trousers. The coming year was no exception: classic men's fashion is in demand not only by reputable businessmen, but also by their younger counterparts.
Some other trends of youth fashion
Today, youth fashion is still not as ardent as before, however, it is influenced by youth subcultures. Hip-hop, rock and punk have left their mark on men's youth fashion 2015.
Hipster- This is another notable trend in modern youth fashion. Retro references, granny sweaters, stylish vests, blazers and skinny pants are still on trend. Bright colors and the use of stylish accessories such as sunglasses, scarves, hats and bags are encouraged. Another trend that has been capturing more and more youth fashion lately is the so-called J-style. It is characterized by the fact that it has overt references to the fashion of the East, in particular - Japan. Original patterns and non-standard styles of J-fashion clothes help create a memorable youth look. .
Street fashion for men
This year it is presented quite brightly. Most designers fashion houses made a bet on street style and did not lose. Main principle, which is observed when choosing a street wardrobe - this is comfort and convenience. Biker jackets, bomber jackets, raincoats and coats - all these types of outerwear are great for youth street style.
yukami. The rolled-up jeans are completely spattered with paint, which brings some confusion to the men's outfits and makes the collection much closer to the youth. Admiral's coats, sea cloaks with wide shoulders proudly stand out on the whole ensemble, some of them even have shoulder straps. The sleeves are decorated with wide blue stripes. In general, Gucci collections always have something of style. military, so there is nothing unexpected in the new clothes. Some shirts are more like pajamas: they are just as long and without a collar.
It will be interesting to know that Frida Gianini always prefers two styles: a jet-setter in a pantsuit and a rock musician with a rebellious character. So the designer combined these two images into one, calling them "decadent admiral." You can see the influence British subcultures e.g. mods. Does a Gucci pantsuit look too strict? It doesn't matter, Frida Gianini relaxed her look, just turn up your trousers, put on moccasins and put on a bag over your shoulder, and you will radically change your appearance.
7.Conclusion
The fashion industry today is not a closed monolithic system that severely dictates to everyone what is in the bullseye and what is out. On the contrary, she herself, in turn, is greatly influenced by the subculture, "street fashion", which very quickly becomes the main source of imagination for the creators of the fashion world. They take ideas from styles and subcultures, modernize them, and then mass-produce them. Subculture research is like a spotlight that illuminates cultural space in search of originality and authenticity - with the fashion industry "stepping on their heels". Thanks to the Internet, digital, mobile communications, the world is becoming faster, reality is becoming virtual. Now the decisive factor is the flow of information - from the catwalk to the manufacturers, and from the final buyers to the creators of fashion.As a result " Street style and fashion from designers quickly became close to each other, and all fashion as a whole became more monolithic. In the era of globalization there is a blurring of boundaries in fashion.
The ability to dress fashionably, in accordance with the ideas inherent in this age, is perceived as an extremely important feature that allows a teenager to be considered "almost an adult." Those who are still dressed according to the standards of children's fashion are often referred to as "nerds", "babies", "hello", "touched", or "kids who go shopping hand in hand with mommy". All these unflattering reviews emphasize that "nerds" are perceived as people with big oddities or even become marginalized in the peer group, and all because they do not do what is considered normal for young people, that is, they do not listen to the opinions of children of their age, do not pay attention to what they are wearing, etc. And precisely, most often such “nerds” fall under the influence of subcultures in order to “stand out from the crowd” in the future.
Thus, the connection of subcultures with fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion in general, they in a sense give rise to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes it possible and development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns mainly the external image, some individual elements. But, as mentioned earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all spheres of life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence.
So, the topic of subcultures and fashion is one of the interesting topics. It is vast and multifaceted. It is vital and is observed every day. Subcultures and fashion do not stand still, they develop and change. They are increasingly embracing humanity.
8. Bibliography
S.I. Levikova / "Youth subculture" / textbook / M., / Grand / 2004.
B.D. Parygin / Social psychology: textbook / 2nd edition / M., / 2003.
fashion theory. No. 10, winter 2008-2009. Dick Hebdige. Chapters from the book "Subculture: the meaning of style"
A. Vasiliev / "Russian fashion" / M., / 2004
www.hazzen.com/publications/articles/istorija_subculture_hippi_chast_i
www.glamur.3dn.ru/forum/39-250-1
Bike Freak magazine issue #6, article "Leather Boys"
Magazine "POP» autumn- winter 2005
