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Mods (Eng. Mods from Modernism, Modism) is a British youth subculture. It appeared in the late 50s of the twentieth century and existed until the end of the 60s. Mods have become a kind of successor to the teddy boys. The post-war generation, unlike their predecessors, got the opportunity to earn more money and, accordingly, spend more on clothes and accessories. From teddy boys, fashion has adopted panache in clothing and attention to detail. Mods wore fitted Italian-style suits (usually tailored), jumpers, shirts and tight ties, Chelsea shoes, girls - short dresses, pencil skirts, flat shoes. Elegance, moderation and accuracy are the features typical representative mods. The mod subculture was rather closed, they consciously opposed themselves to traditional British society with its values, listened to American music (jazz, rhythm and blues, soul, rock and roll), collected records, carefully followed fashion and took care of to look cool and stylish. Mods usually moved along the street on motor scooters, and parkas (military jackets with a hood trimmed with fur and a loose fit) were put on top of smart clothes to protect them from dirt and dust. Mods can be called the dandies of the 20th century, despite the fact that they were practically all working class and often spent their entire paychecks on a suit and a cool motor scooter with lots of mirrors.
By the end of the 60s, the mod subculture ceased to be such by promoting it to the masses with the help of radio and television. Later, the British punks of the 70s adopted something from the mods.

Subcultures of England in the 20th century. Style, ideology.

Introduction. The concept of subculture

Subculture(lat. sub - under and cultura - culture; subculture) - a concept denoting a part of the culture of a society that differs in its behavior from the prevailing majority, as well as social groups bearers of this culture. The concept of "subculture" usually expresses an opinion that is strictly opposite to the ideas of morality and the laws of society, young people who wanted to express themselves also needed to distinguish "their" from "them", dividing according to musical, fashion and life preferences. This phenomenon became especially widespread after the end of the war, when 70% of young people joined one or another subculture. This article explored the most striking and significant subcultures of England in the twentieth century.

In the mental map, you can see a greater number of subcultures of England of the twentieth century, as well as those that were studied in more detail in the article.

With the help of infographic resource Venngage, the most important aspects of the style, values, worldview and image of the three subcultures studied are clearly and concisely displayed.

teddy boy

British researchers as the first youth subcultural group call «" teddy boy"» . This group announced itself in the middle 1950 -s. " Teddy”, earning some pocket money with unskilled labor, became relatively independent financially from their families and could spend this money on their own needs. Their needs were small: cafes, cinemas, discos. But their main cultural niche was American rock and roll. As British scientists note, the appearance of " Teddy”combined the features of an English gentleman and an American sharpie: a long draped jacket with a velvet collar, trousers with a pipe, micropore boots, a lace tie. " Teddy"were troublemakers of the British peace in cinemas and ballrooms, where they actively explored rock and roll. This process often ended in mass fights and acts of vandalism. " Teddy” were of conservative values, sometimes aggressive nationalism (racial riots) was inherent in them. " Teddy» disappeared to 1964. However, it was they who declared the youth not as an age group, but as a social group.

Fashion

"British Phenomenon" fashion- Appeared in 1962. But there is an opinion that the first mention of fashion in the media in 1962-63 years was, in fact, not the beginning of the movement, but its swan song. It was then that ideology was sacrificed to popularization and accessibility. Fashion lived in their own small world where only a select few go. And it was enough to exchange a few words, to take a quick look at the clothes in order to understand - "one's own" or not. It was then that what later became known as the “dress code” of youth subcultures appeared. They despised popular culture, designed for the "average layman", for them this term itself was humiliating. But, despite all these conventions, it cannot be said that mods had a manifesto.

Many of them left at the first opportunity. parental home and rented for little money some kind of wrecked on the outskirts or even in the suburbs. Housing was not the main item of their expenses - the lion's share of earnings went to clothes, music and scooters.

Fashion, the so-called first wave, preferred to listen to American black jazz, blues and soul - then these were close styles, and often they were simply called soul. Of the British artists, they were interested in the work of Georgie Fame, Chris Farlowe, Zoot Money Big Roll Band, Long John Baldry, Graham Bond Organization, etc. The discs of these record companies were originally a rarity in Albion, they could be proud of no less than expensive clothes and a good scooter. In general, the records in the culture of mods were and remain one of the most valuable fetishes.

Punks

Impossible to ignore punk culture. Word " punk” is ambiguous in English, but before the advent of punk rock, it was most often used as a curse word.

Exactly first wave punk In Great Britain ( 1976 -1978 ) counts punk era and is considered by most researchers. There are two main trends in it. First, there was "core" punk- an environment in which proclaimed slogans were the center of worldview and social action. This environment can be confidently attributed to the phenomenon of counterculture, to protest education. On the other hand, there is a use of the idea of ​​punk, there are pseudo-punks using the language of the subculture, its style, but ignoring it ideological content. The purpose of such cultural formations- making money and vulgarizing the concepts of culture Punk. In this case, they can be defined as phenomena of mass culture.

Punks are distinguished by colorful outrageous image. Many punks dye their hair in bright unnatural colors, comb it and fix it with hairspray, gel or beer to make it stand up. In the 80s, the mohawk hairstyle became fashionable among punks. Sneakers are also popular among punks. Biker jacket - was adopted as a rock and roll attribute from 50s when motorcycle and rock and roll were inseparable components. The punks of the first wave sought to restore to rock music the same deliberate badass and drive that the mass commercialization of music had eventually taken away. The clothes are dominated by the "DEAD" style. Punks put skulls and signs on clothes and accessories, wear wristlets and collars made of leather with spikes, studs and chains. A lot of punks get tattoos. Representatives of this movement love torn, worn jeans, and chains from dog leashes are attached to jeans. The Ramones are considered the first band to play punk rock music. The Sex Pistols, The Damned and The Clash are recognized as the first British punk bands.

Clothing elements

Using the WordItOut resource, we were able to explore which items of clothing these three subcultures paid the most or least attention to.

On this word cloud you can see the differences and similarities of the studied subcultures. For the study, a text was taken, which contains the main features of the style and images of Teddy, Mods and Punks. Considering similarities and differences given youth trends of the twentieth century, we can conclude that special attention in all three subcultures was paid to shoes, and in particular, boots.

Influence on contemporary culture

Looking at just a few youth informal currents in the UK, one can see a strong influence on the younger generation as a whole. Adolescents at all times constituted a special socio-demographic group, but in our time a specific teenage culture has developed, which, along with others social factors, plays big role in student development. " youth subculture" - a system of values ​​and norms of behavior, tastes, forms of communication, different from the culture of adults and characterizing the life of adolescents, youth from about 10 to 20 years old.

Informal youth movements have been noticeably developed in 20th century. Youth subculture, being one of the institutions, factors of socialization of schoolchildren, plays controversial role and has an ambiguous effect on adolescents. Youth subculture wears entertainment and consumer character, and not cognitive, constructive and creative. In Russia, as in the rest of the world, it focuses on western values: American a way of life in its light version, mass culture, and not on values national culture . Aesthetic tastes and preferences of schoolchildren are often quite primitive and are formed mainly by means of television and music. These tastes and values ​​are supported periodicals, contemporary mass art that has a demoralizing and dehumanizing effect.

research work (project)

"Men's youth fashion as a subculture"

Fulfilled: Gaifullin

Vildan Rafisovich

Pupil 10 "A" class

MBOU secondary school No. 58

Soviet r. Kazan

Supervisor: teacher

technologies:

Martynova E.P.

Kazan, 2016

Content.

1. Introduction

2. Purpose and tasks.

3 . History of the term,

4. Birth of subcultures.

5 . Maincharacteristics of youth subcultures.

7. Creators of fashion of the third millennium.

8. Fashion and youth subcultures in our time.

9 .Conclusion

10. Bibliography.

"It's scary to say how often the most exciting clothing concepts are found in the poorest people"

Designer Christian Lacroix.

Introduction.

When you walk through our wonderful city, you involuntarily pay attention to how my peers are dressed. And it can be very interesting in appearance to determine which social group of people he belongs to. And when he has an unusual outfit in general, it is immediately clear which subculture he prefers. And I wanted to consider the phenomenon of youth fashion as a subculture.

Modern society is not homogeneous. Each person is a special microcosm, with his own interests, problems, worries. But at the same time, many of us similar interests and requests. Sometimes, in order to satisfy them, it is necessary to unite with other people, because together it is easier to achieve the goal. This is the social mechanism for the formation of subcultures - associations of people with interests that do not contradict the values ​​of traditional culture, but complement it. And youth subcultures (which are often based on hobbies for various genres of music, sports, literature, etc.) are no exception.

Adolescents at all times constituted a special socio-demographic group, but in our time a specific adolescent culture has developed, which, along with other social factors, plays an important role in the development modern teenager. Sociologists first addressed this issue in the 1960s.XXcentury. In Russia, since the late 80s, the attention of researchers to youth subcultures has become more noticeable. IN last years much more attention is paid to youth subculture.

Each subculture has its own fashion and style. A single style unites people, whether it be music, clothing or lifestyle.

No matter how subcultures try to isolate themselves from a common base culture, it is very difficult to completely autonomize.

2. The purpose of my work :

consider the concepts of "fashion" and "subculture"; find out how these concepts are related.

Tasks:

consider the main characteristics and aspects of youth subcultures,

highlight their features, show their relationship and influence on the formation of fashion, tastes and outlook of the younger generation.

study the literature on the topic;

Relevance: this topic is due to the appearance in Lately a large number of diverse subcultures and the growing interest of researchers and society in this phenomenon.

Hypothesis: subcultures have a connection with fashion and have a mutual influence on each other.

3. The history of the term the concept of "subculture", "fashion".

Let's start with the history of the term. In 1950, the American sociologist David Reisman, in his research, developed the concept of a subculture as a group of people who deliberately choose the style and values ​​​​preferred by a minority. subcultures attract people with similar tastes who are not satisfied with generally accepted standards and values. The style of the youth subculture turns out to be not just its external expression; through their rituals and iconic forms, it challenges the existing moral order and the prevailing ideology. In the USSR, the term " Informal associations youth."

The subculture has the following characteristic features: specific style of life and behavior of the participants; specific norms, values, worldview peculiar to this social group; also the presence of a more or less explicit initiative center that generates ideas.

The word "fashion" comes from the Latin "modus" (measure, method, image, rule, norm). The Latin "modus" was used by the philosophy of the XVII-XVIII centuries. as a transient property of matter (object). In Russian, the word "fashion" appears under Peter I and is recorded in the first Russian dictionaries.

The history of fashion is as old as the history of costume. From the moment when a person discovered the significance of clothing as a means of protection from the adverse effects of nature, it was not long before he began to think about its aesthetic and stylizing function. Clothing says a lot, it exposes certain thoughts and characteristics of a person. Subculture - a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. Subculture creates its own unique culture, which includes a special value system, language, demeanor, clothing and other aspects, and therefore has a connection with the fashion phenomenon.

4. Birth of subcultures.

It is customary to separate the concepts of "subculture" and "youth subculture". It is believed that the youth subculture is a culture created by young people for themselves, it is a “not for everyone” culture, a cultural subsystem within the official system. It determines the lifestyle, value hierarchy and mentality of its bearers. Youth subculture is a special case, one of the many subcultures in modern society. The epithet "youth" immediately defines a certain cultural niche occupied by people united by the principle of age. Age in this case is a very important demographic characteristic. Taking into account the special psychology of age in culture is undoubtedly important, since it leaves a significant imprint on spirituality and mentality. The youth subculture, according to the German scientist L. Hauser, is "a form of expression of the process of searching and mastering the worldview." In other words, youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon, it is special form life search. Subculture - a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. A subculture creates its own unique culture, including a particular value system, language, demeanor, clothing, and other aspects.

For my work, this feature of subcultures is of great interest, since it all has a connection with the fashion phenomenon.

From birth, a child tries to repeat the behavior of his parents and other adults around him. For young children, their parents are role models. But what older child, the closer his age is to adolescence, the more children are separated from their parents, they want to be different from them, and not only from their parents, but also from the society around them. This is the reason for the emergence of youth subcultures. Young people are united in separate movements, which differ from the overwhelming majority in behavior, clothing and lifestyle in general. The main function of the youth subculture is to enable young people to stand out from others, to fulfill themselves, to find friends with the same views.

Each subculture of youth has its own attributes,your style of dress and in music, their websites. There are even gestures specific to certain subcultures.

For a teenager in the 50s rock and roll was a revolution in literally everything: in the manner of dancing, speaking, walking, in the views on the world, on power, on parents, and most importantly, a revolution in a person’s views on himself. This is how rock culture was born. And among young people it has become really fashionable.

In the 1960s arosesubculture "Modos" (Fashion). Mods pick up on the Teddy Boys (1950) for their dapper dressing style. Their motto is "moderation and accuracy!". The Mods wore perfectly fitted suits, the chemical marvel of the early 60s—snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, narrow-toed boots, faux leather jackets with zippers, neat hairdos. In 1962, the legendary Beatles became followers of the Modos style. Youth fashion, booming in this decade, has its influence on the classic haute couture houses. Such houses offered their clients an “ennobled” version of youth fashion: knee-length skirts, suits “modernized” with bright colors and new lines, classic “boats” with low heels, etc. The fashion of the late 1960s is influenced by the new youthsubcultures - "hippies". Diffuser hippie style brought bright ethnic oriental motifs into fashion, a deliberate shabby effect and, among other things, jeans, which were something of a symbol of protest against bourgeois uniforms. With their appearance and behavior, hippies emphasized the denial of the norms of official culture. In search of individuality, young rebels mixed clothes different styles, times and peoples. They sang the value old clothes. From here went the effect of wear and torn jeans.

It is known that some subcultures continue to live to this day, while others cease to exist. It also has a connection with the fashion phenomenon. Fashion quickly responds to changing needs of young people. And sometimes ahead of their change, creating new ones. If something ceases to be relevant, it goes out of Everyday life into history. Pagers, for example, can now only be found in a museum, but at one time it was fashionable. The same situation with subcultures. Zutiz, rockabilly, beatniks, hippies have long disappeared (if there are, then very few). But now such a subculture as emo, for example, has gained immense popularity among young people. Such a conclusion can be drawn from the abundance of young people dressed in this style. People who don’t consider themselves emo dress like that, they just think it’s beautiful. Hairstyles that came into fashion thanks to this subculture also took root very well. Such subcultures owe their mass character to the fashion created by the youth media.

Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into common culture and may even become a classic in any field. For example, let's takesubculture "dudes". It appeared in the USSR and existed from 1940 to the beginning. 1960s. As a reference, this subculture had a Western (mainly American) lifestyle. The dudes stood out for their bright clothes, original manner of speaking (special slang). They had special interest To Western music and dancing. Western fashion still has a huge impact on our country. Unfortunately, this applies not only to clothing... Subcultures are also an indicator of this. It is difficult to recall at least one subculture that would originally have arisen in Russia. Basically, they all came to us from the West.

Another subculture directly related to fashion ishipsters or indie kids. The name speaks for itself. It comes from English word hip, which translates as "to be in the subject." Fashion is perhaps the main component of hipster culture.

5. Main characteristics of youth subcultures.

Each informal belongs to one of the types of youth subcultures: (below are the most common subspecies of subcultures at present)

general description

Subspecies

Description of subspecies

Musical

Subcultures based on fans of various genres of music

Alternatives

fans of alternative rock, rapcore

Goths

goth rock fans

Metalworkers

fans of heavy metal and its varieties

Punks

punk rock fans

rockers

rock music fans

Hip hop (rappers)

rap and hip hop fans

Skinheads

ska lovers

emo

emocore fans

Image

Subcultures distinguished by style in clothing and behavior

supporters of the movement do not have a specific ideology, they prefer electronic club music.

Fashion

snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with zippers, neat hairstyles

The subculture is based on the imitation of adolescents of the "golden youth".

Glamourers

masters. The main component is the desire for a life advertised in the glamorous "men's" and "women's" magazines (the pursuit of fashion, clothing and cosmetics).

Freaks

dudes

"Deceased" soviet movement inspired by western lifestyle.

Military

Paramilitary style.

Political and ideological

Subcultures distinguished by public beliefs

Antifa

Hippie

.

.

.

Informals

.

.

By hobby

Subcultures shaped by hobbies

Bikers

motorcycle lovers

Writers

graffiti fans

tracers

parkour lovers

hackers

Fans of computer hacking (often illegally)

For other hobbies

Subcultures based on cinema, games, animation, literature.

Otaku

anime fans Japanese animation

Gamers

Fans of computer games

Football hooligans

6. Relationship between fashion and subculture. Youth men's fashion - for the young and stylish. Fashion and subculture occupy an important place in modern society. Both of these concepts are quite complex and interesting to study, and both of them are components of the culture as a whole. Fashion today penetrates into all spheres of life.Even the behavior or lifestyle some people choose is influenced by fashion trends. In this case, we can talk about the existence of a fashion for certain subcultures, as well as the mutual influence of these phenomena on each other. Fashion in general always strives for a young and fresh impression: it wants to rejuvenate. At the same time, the essence of fashion - change - is closer to the dynamic pace of life of young people.Fashion acts as a special social sign, a symbol of prestige. Fashion focuses on recognized leaders, unites in accordance with in a certain way behavior, stimulates interest in new things. The compensatory function allows you to fill unsatisfied or insufficiently satisfied needs, acting as a regulator of social needs. Fashion is a social phenomenon and therefore should be studied and studied under different angles vision. Youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon, it is a special form of life search. Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into the general culture and can even become a classic in any field. Often fashion creates subcultures. No matter how hard the representatives of this or that subculture try to stand out and retreat from the official fashion, in the end it turns out that the more massive the subculture becomes, the more likely it will be fashionable and vice versa - the more fashionable among the youth the subculture is, the more massive it will be.Thus, the connection of subcultures with fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion in general, they in a sense give rise to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes it possible and development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns for the most part external image, some individual elements. But, as mentioned earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all areas of life. modern man. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence. Important role youth subculture in that it provides an opportunity for self-development and self-realization to its participants. As well as the opportunity to create your own reality and culture. It is not limited to household items or clothing. We came to the conclusion that there are practically no boundaries for fashion: it can penetrate science, art, politics, ideology, etc. Sometimes elements of such fashion go beyond the subculture and become quite acceptable to the general population, moving into the category of "official" fashion. Fashion for a certain style of music, clothes, etc. can become the basis of a subculture, and also determines the development or cessation of its existence.

The image for a representative of a subculture is not only clothes, it is a demonstration of the beliefs and values ​​that the subculture promotes.As mentioned earlier, fashion is associated with the instinct to imitate. This is one of the contradictions inherent in young people - to be like everyone else and at the same time stand out. This contradiction is resolved thanks to the subculture.For example, a goth among “friends” will be like everyone else, but compared to people who do not belong to this subculture, he will be a “black sheep”. The goal is achieved, it will be noticed. Fashion is art, fashion is an endless list of victims, fashion is a lifestyle, fashion is a philosophy, fashion is outrageous. Modern fashion becomes more and more democratic, it no longer imposes rigid rules, allowing everyone to express their individuality. Fashion is cyclical, so things that used to be popular often get a second life. And if you restore the history of this or that thing, you can find a connection with a wide variety of subcultures.

7. Creators of fashion of the third millennium.

Rejection of a uniform style.Among the countless sources of inspiration for designers, retrospectives occupy the most important place in recent times. Even the greatest couturiers usually draw inspiration from well-known human experiences. Genius often manifests itself precisely in rereading well-known chapters of human history with brilliance.Another source remains street fashion and the fashion of designers working for the "street" and subcultures. Since the 1990s, designers have been eclectically mixing elements of several different subcultural styles and playing freely with historical, intercultural and futuristic influences to create new fashion.

John Galliano admitted that the inspiration for his spring-summer 2005 collection was just one line from the song - it was the phrase "Napoleon in rags" from Bob Dylan's classic song LikeaRollingStone. The show itself was more like a performance: videos, live music, singers, the Uminski rock band, violins and viols, and rock stars in the front row. Rock musicians, according to the custom of all rock dinosaurs, broke both guitars and drums by the end of the performance.

Ripped jeans and rock and roll introducedKarl Lagerfeld at Paris Fashion Week in her spring/summer 2005 collection for Chanel, inspired by two great icons of the 20th century, James Dean and Coco Chanel. From the first - an abundance of ripped denim jackets and worn breeches with tweed and rock and roll leather chic, and from the second - glamorous and feminine puffy dresses with a corset and sexy butterfly swimsuits.

Showing the last autumn men's collection"swing, dudes and rock and roll" from sirPaul Smith, the soundtrack of which was composed entirely of songs by contemporary young British and American bands playing rock and roll, Britpop, post-post-punk, junk, testified to the designer's genuine love for non-commercial rock music and referred to the image of a swinging intellectual from Chelsea of ​​the late 60s. Paul Smith suggested to his aristocratic intellectual that he should not hesitate to mix everything in his wardrobe. Large caps of dockers and factory workers with expensive tweed jackets and tight trousers. And all this - with shoes "under the zebra" with elongated noses. This is exactly how, according to Smith, the London dude reincarnated from the 60s should look like in the winter of 2006.

Street style showed the House of Christian Dior on Paris Fashion Week in the fall/winter 2010/2011 collection. Stretched sleeves and a "loose loop" effect - "new chic" from John Galliano. He invited the brilliant audience to present themselves in a torn knitted dress, in a slant jacket with raw edges, in randomly selected clothes. "Would you be shocked if I put on something more comfortable?" - these words of the heroine Jean Harlow from the film by Horvard Hughes "Hell's Angels" are taken as an epigraph!

Often, truly great designers find ideas literally in their own backyard. Two years agoGiorgio Armani created a collection inspired by images of workers from of Eastern Europe. How can a luxury designer come up with ideas for luxury clothing in a world of poor expatriates? My new collection Armani updated with sideways berets in the style of the 1960s.

Glam and rock by Jean-Paul Gaultier Paris Fashion Week. "More glam! David Bowie, Thank you! T. Rex, thank you! ”, - this is how leading French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier began his seasonal show, loudly urging the audience gathered in Paris to get up from their seats and move to the beat of energetic music.

Models began to appear on the catwalk in bright elastic leggings, returning to the 1980s, sparkling shapeless tops, torn sheepskin coats with shiny leather prints, sweaters with huge fluffy collars, cape blouses, golden leggings and translucent tops with crosses. This is how Jean-Paul Gaultier saw the next autumn and winter of 2009/2010.

Today there is an ever-increasing popularity of the hippie style. neo hippie and ethnic romanticism took over the podium. Dresses and skirts embroidered with flowers and beads, oriental motifs, intricate ornaments, hand painting, asymmetry are very relevant. Skirts trimmed with braid, T-shirts decorated with rhinestones. Long, floor-length dresses with colorful embroidery. Tunics worn over trousers. Accessories: pouches, handbags, frayed bags, belts embroidered with beads.

000 CollectionZegna spring / summer 2015-Z Zegna was born under the sign of Pitti Uomo, so you can quite rightly find designer influences this seasonPaul Surridge and Murray Scallon that presented their current proposals for the Italian label.

Ermenegildo Zegna presented the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture spring/summer 2015 collection with a fashion show in the form of a feature film directed by Johan Söderberg. An unconventional cut, a different look at the latest spring-summer trends in men's fashion - all forecasts from Stefano Pilati. The starting point is architectural restraint and classic elegance in premium men's business attire. The silhouettes are perfectly tailored in volume and cut. The main theme of this collection was to be the study of the original male strength and energy, intellectual masculinity.

It should be noted that the designer offered up quite a few striped things. Where black and blue, where gray and dark red, black and white or beige with sandy stripes - they are found in various widths, vertical and horizontal, even oblique and circular lines, and both on shirts and jackets, coats and three-piece suits. Coats and wide trousers are cut in the usual loose way, which just reach your ankles. As for the choice of fabrics - freedom in their combination, the main thing is that the combinations of materials are pleasant for the body, so that the air circulates freely and with inspiration. Youth destinations are too diverse and changeable to single out a specific style, so just focus on your ideas about convenience and your sense of style.

8. Youth subcultures and fashion in our time.

important place modern youth fashion is occupied by clothes in the style of various subcultures and simply style directions. Most young people belong to some direction - hip-hop, goths, punks, hippies - and dress according to their hobbies. The main criteria in choosing such clothes are convenience and the ability to emphasize one's belonging to a particular subculture.Hip Hopper easy to know by wide pants and a t-shirt that does not hinder movement during the dance. Hippies prefer loose fit, natural fabrics, bright colors. Black clothes in combination with gloomy makeup - business card ready. Particularly noteworthy are retro distractions and fascination with recreating the styles of ancient civilizations, for the summer - these are the motifs of Egypt and Ancient Greece, in spring and autumn - it can be a saturated East and in winter the expected aspiration to the North.

Universal clothing for the city. However, youth fashion includes not only subcultures, there are also simpler and more universal styles. One of them is casual, comfortable clothes for everyday wear in the city. Casual is characterized by a mixture of styles, a combination of dissimilar elements - for example, shorts and a jacket, a business suit and sneakers, jeans and a formal shirt. The highlight of casual style is the opportunity to create new looks every day, combining and experimenting. . The conclusion is simple: clothing style is a calling card, which, even before the first words, is able to tell a lot about its owner. That is why it is important to create an image, taking into account your own preferences, and that is why there are so many directions in fashion: so that everyone can find themselves. Youth men's fashion is a fairly broad concept. Here you can meet the styles of various subcultures, and just a comfortable casual clothes. The fashion portal Manero.ru offers to understand in more detail what youth men's fashion is.

Men's youth clothing

Men's youth fashion in the coming season is, first of all,denim fashion. Skinny jeans can be paired with colorful printed t-shirts or plain white t-shirts that are the hit of the season. In cool weather, the T-shirt can be replaced with an elongated sweater with a striped pattern. In general, the stripe will become the most popular print of the spring-summer 2015 season. It adorns T-shirts, sweaters, and jackets. The classic nautical stripe, as well as multi-colored stripes, both horizontal and vertical, will be in fashion.

Sport style This year it is distinguished by aristocracy and reminds more of sailing regattas and golf clubs than of backyard basketball courts.

To every fashionable young man you need to get a classic knitted polo shirt - white, dark cherry or blue. Another indispensable element of a fashionable men's wardrobe is loose-fitting soft chinos made of light-coloured cotton, which can be an original alternative to jeans. Interesting models can be found in the new collections of European brands such as Gray Connection, John Devin, Mod, Esprit, Tom Tailor and many others.Clash of classics and avant-garde: as always, two opposites met on the catwalks - strict classic style and the image of a fashionista-rebel. Both of these areas of the fashion industry find their customers. Young people are also happy to choose traditional jackets and blazers, skillfully combining them with jeans and trousers. The coming year was no exception: classic men's fashion is in demand not only by reputable businessmen, but also by their younger counterparts.

Some other trends of youth fashion

Today, youth fashion is still not as ardent as before, however, it is influenced by youth subcultures. Hip-hop, rock and punk made their mark on the men's youth fashion in 2015.

Hipster- This is another notable trend in modern youth fashion. Retro references, granny sweaters, stylish vests, blazers and skinny pants are still on trend. Bright colors and the use of stylish accessories such as sunglasses, scarves, hats and bags are encouraged. Another trend that has been capturing more and more youth fashion lately is the so-called J-style. It is characterized by the fact that it has overt references to the fashion of the East, in particular - Japan. Original patterns and non-standard styles of J-fashion clothes help create a memorable youth look. .

Street fashion for men

This year it is presented quite brightly. Most designers fashion houses made a bet on street style and did not lose. Main principle, which is observed when choosing a street wardrobe - this is comfort and convenience. Biker jackets, bomber jackets, raincoats and coats - all these types of outerwear are great for youth street style.

yukami. The rolled-up jeans are completely spattered with paint, which brings some confusion to the men's outfits and makes the collection much closer to the youth. Admiral's coats, sea cloaks with wide shoulders proudly stand out on the whole ensemble, some of them even have shoulder straps. The sleeves are decorated with wide blue stripes. In general, Gucci collections always have something of style. military, so there is nothing unexpected in the new clothes. Some shirts are more like pajamas: they are just as long and without a collar.

It will be interesting to know that Frida Gianini always prefers two styles: a jet-setter in a pantsuit and a rock musician with a rebellious character. So the designer combined these two images into one, calling them "decadent admiral." You can also see the influence of British subcultures, for example, mods. Does a Gucci pantsuit look too strict? It doesn’t matter, Frida Gianini relaxed her look, just turn up your trousers, put on moccasins and put on a bag over your shoulder, and you will radically change your appearance.

7.Conclusion

The fashion industry today is not a closed monolithic system that severely dictates to everyone what is in the bullseye and what is out. On the contrary, she herself, in turn, is greatly influenced by the subculture, "street fashion", which very quickly becomes the main source of imagination for the creators of the fashion world. They take ideas from styles and subcultures, modernize them, and then mass-produce them. Subculture research is like a spotlight that illuminates cultural space in search of originality and authenticity - with the fashion industry "stepping on their heels". Thanks to the Internet, digital, mobile communications, the world is becoming faster, reality is becoming virtual. Now the decisive factor is the flow of information - from the catwalk to the manufacturers, and from the final buyers to the creators of fashion.As a result, "street style" and fashion from designers quickly converged with each other, and all fashion as a whole became more monolithic. In the era of globalization there is a blurring of boundaries in fashion.

The ability to dress fashionably, in accordance with the ideas inherent in this age, is perceived as an extremely important feature that allows a teenager to be considered "almost an adult." Those who are still dressed according to the standards of children's fashion are often referred to as "nerds", "babies", "hello", "touched", or "kids who go shopping hand in hand with mommy". All these unflattering reviews emphasize that "nerds" are perceived as people with big oddities or even become marginalized in the peer group, and all because they do not do what is considered normal for young people, that is, they do not listen to the opinions of children of their age, do not pay attention to what they are wearing, etc. And precisely, most often such “nerds” fall under the influence of subcultures in order to “stand out from the crowd” in the future.

Thus, the connection of subcultures with fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion in general, they in a sense give rise to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes it possible and development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns mainly the external image, some individual elements. But, as mentioned earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all spheres of life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence.

So, the topic of subcultures and fashion is one of the interesting topics. It is vast and multifaceted. It is vital and is observed every day. Subcultures and fashion do not stand still, they develop and change. They are increasingly embracing humanity.

8. Bibliography

S.I. Levikova / "Youth subculture" / textbook / M., / Grand / 2004.

B.D. Parygin / Social psychology: textbook / 2nd edition / M., / 2003.

fashion theory. No. 10, winter 2008-2009. Dick Hebdige. Chapters from the book "Subculture: the meaning of style"

A. Vasiliev / "Russian fashion" / M., / 2004

www.hazzen.com/publications/articles/istorija_subculture_hippi_chast_i

www.glamur.3dn.ru/forum/39-250-1

Bike Freak magazine issue #6, article "Leather Boys"

Magazine "POP» autumn- winter 2005